Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Strange Vibration Coming From Driver Side Wheel Intermittently
Oct 18, 2014
So I had a strange vibration coming from the drivers side wheel intermittently. Only when the hubs were in Auto , by locking them it would not happen. With hubs in Auto when it occurs switching into 4H made it stop immediately.
It would occur after small bumps and sound like driving over a rumble strip. I figured it sounds like a needle bearing in the hub going wonky and just replaced the entire sealed unit. So that should be it right? Nope.....
The vibration has changed tone and sound but still occurred after a slight bump to the right Driver Side tower. It now is a much deeper tone then before.
I made sure everything was reassembled correctly and tight. I notice however that if I remove the ESOF lockouts to rule them out it still occurs (no lockout in at all ) .
I can move the outer DS stub shaft quite a bit with one finger when the lockouts are not installed. Which would explain that why when the lockouts are installed and I lock the hubs it doesn't occur as the end of the stub shaft rides in the lockout.
I haven't changed the outer axle seals , but they really didn't look shot. It appears as if the play in the axle is coming from the pumpkin.
Side note: I took apart everything and cleaned it , there was mud, crud, dirt and water throughout the hum to and into the lockouts. see pix below for the mess and carnage. I cleaned and lubed everything up.
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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Big trail of clear liquid on garage floor this morning. Truck is dripping on drivers side to rear of drivers side wheel well. Not brake fluid. Trans or antifreeze would have a color to it and a smell. None of that. Was quite humid last night and I did have truck out for about an hour run time. Trying to figure what the heck this is. Don't want to waste my or dealer service time if it's just AC moisture.
2016 f350 crew cab miles under 8k
Where the ac condensate drain is passenger or drivers side?
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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Got off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
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My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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Cat like noises coming from front driver side tire .. honestly sounds like a cat ..it gets louder the faster I go ... what it could be ?
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On my way home today I heard wind coming in around my drivers side power window. Its not seating itself straight in the weather stripping. The window is tilted toward the front of the truck. Do I need a new regulator? Or maybe re- epoxy glass to bracket? The window still operates, its just crooked. Also I haven't had those door panels off before..
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I've got a 2016 250 6.2l and am getting a popping sound coming from the transmission area. the following is what i have figured out so far. the noise is made just before a complete stop, just as the tranny down shifts to 1st and can be felt through the manual floor shifter 100% of the time and heard roughly 90% of the time. sound ranges from not audible to loud and is random in how loud it is. the only way it does not do this is if i come to a stop in neutral or i go slow enough as not to have the tranny shift out of first from my last stop. the only other way is if i do one of those long, slow rolling stops. truck only has 6600 miles on it. i will be taking it in at 7500 for first service and have them look at it ...
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So after this weekend's hurricane my 2011 f-250 started to making a noise when I accelerate. I don't know if water got in some where. But there's no MIL light coming on.
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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ABS light has been coming on intermittently the last few days. Checked the resevoir for fluid level...topped up a bit. Changed the oil today and looked at the sensor connectors on the front brakes...ok... Got a new speed sensor and installed it....ABS is still on. Checked the old sensor with my meter and it is open circuit....no continuity, so I'm thinking it was the problem.. Is there something that has to be reset for the fault to clear, say with a code reader etc?
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I recently bought some used rockstar 1s off a buddy, installed new tires, balanced, put tapered lug nuts on and I'm still getting a slight vibration above 40mph. Do I need hub centric rings? XD says no, I think I do.
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 crew cab and have a vibration in the front end. I have done sone investigating and have come to the conclusion that is the front wheel bearings. The dealers says I have to buy the entire hub assemble but I seem to think different. But if I can replace the bearings any special tools that might make it easier ..
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Driving into work this morning, I came up to the first stop sign before I get on the "freeway" and noticed a weird vibration. As I slowed to stop I could have sworn it felt like the engine was being lugged, the same feeling you get in a manual when you try to come to a stop without using the clutch. I thought for sure the engine was going to die. The engine RPMs dropped to about 800-900 RPM and once I got to a complete stop the RPMs went back to normal.
It seemed to do this every time I came to a stop. Could my torque converter be locking up and not releasing as it supposed to causing the lugging sensation I'm getting? The truck accelerates fine and idles fine once stopped, but when slowing I get that weird vibration and maybe the lugging sensation is just in my imagination and has nothing to do with the engine.
I do have a vibration from a missing wheel weight, but that's usually felt at about 34-35 mph. In addition, I also have a bit of a brake vibration when slowing down quickly, such as when slowing quickly from 65 to turn off the highway onto my local road, but this is a completely different vibration.
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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