Prius (2010-12) :: No Heat - Coolant Replaced?
Oct 22, 2014
My 2010 with 130,000 miles has no heat. I had it flushed at the dealer and recall work done last June as part of the maintenance sched and did not try to use the heat until a few weeks ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice. They have in order bled the coolant system, replaced the coolant and then changed the thermostat at the second visit. The catch is that each time they have done this the heat returns and by the next day or so the heat is gone--It has not been very cold yet so we have not needed to use the heat every day. I am wondering if the system is hard to bleed?
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I bought my 2006 Prius a little over a year ago from a Toyota dealer in the area, and within the first month I had a strange occurrence. I got into my car, pressed the power button to start the car and everything on the dashboard lit up, the power button flashed amber, the clock's numbers were just barely visible, and the car wouldn't start. Frantic that no matter what I did (shut it off, took the keys out, and tried again several times with the same results), I called the dealer who sold me the car and just as he was about to send out a tow truck to get me, I tried it one last time and it started. I took it directly to the dealership, they inspected it, and came back with the response of 'there's nothing wrong with it, I don't know why it did that. If it happens again, come back again.' No charge and supposedly no problem, I let it go.
Well, exactly 1 year later (to the day) and suddenly it happens again. So I take it to the dealer again. They checked the battery in the back and now they're telling me it's a bad battery cell. They insist the two incidents are completely unrelated. I left to go to class that night and had no more issues that day. But now I have a car that's been getting harder and harder to start. The power button doesn't even light up green anymore. I've noticed that I have issues when I open my door and the alarm goes off like I've left the key in the ignition, but I haven't. I knew when I opened the door yesterday and the alarm sounded that I was going to have issues. Sure enough, the car wouldn't turn on, and after two tries, it became completely unresponsive.
Which battery has the bad cell? They tested in the back, where the hybrid battery is. Also, it seems like there's something more serious than just the battery, considering I've read the manual a zillion and one times since I first had issues in hopes of trying to figure out what's been going on. The power button, like I said, flashes amber when it turns on, then disappears once it's on, but there is no green light instead.
Also, I've been getting repeatedly worse and worse gas mileage since the fall, the last fill only lasting me 350 miles or so with an mpg average of 34.6. I know it's winter and that the Prius typically gets worse gas mileage in the winter due to the heater being on. But the funny thing is, I don't drive with the heater on, even through the winter. I only use the heater when I need to defrost a window or I have company in my car because I like the cold. However, I got stuck on the I-90 for about 9 hours in the beginning of December and I noticed then that the heaters for the feet was varying how much air was blowing out of them after a few hours, and ever since then it's had the same problem. I figured it might have been a need to change the cabin air filters, but now I'm wondering if it points to something else...
View 14 Replies
My MIL has been intermittently showing up, and I'm pulling DTC P1151 - Coolant Heat Storage Tank. This is the only DTC that I'm getting. I have recently replaced the Coolant Control Valve, as I had been getting a P1121, and attempted to refill the coolant myself.
View 5 Replies
I'm getting a noise that sounds like "woooooooooo" from the right front of the engine compartment when the outside temp gets below about 20F and I just start the car. The colder it gets, the longer the noise lasts.
I suspect it's the pump that's part of the CHS. Just a very wild guess. The noise goes away when the car starts to warm up. No drive ability problems.
View 10 Replies
First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
View 10 Replies
So I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
View 1 Replies
Actually 2 very similar questions about my Prius 2007.
1. My water pump was replaced by a dealer due to failure some half a year ago at 95,000 miles. Yesterday, after oil change (98,000), I was told it is recommended to replace engine coolant. Does this sound right? Don't they change coolant when replacing the pump?!
2. Identical question about HV pump. It was replaced at 80,000. Now they recommend do change the coolant for hybrid system. Don't they have to do it when replacing the pump?
I want to do everything necessary to maintain the car. But don't want to spend money for something that is not needed.
View 14 Replies
I know that you're supposed to hear a soft whining noise when starting up and shutting down the car, especially in cold weather. For at least a year now, the noise coming from my front left has gotten much louder and more obnoxious, especially in cold weather.
From what I've seen on this forum so far, I think it is the coolant heat transfer pump. Does that sound right? Or could it be a different pump or piece of some sort? Seems like there has been confusion on this issue, from other threads I've read.
The noise has gotten louder and longer, it lasts about 10-15 seconds now. Especially in the winter, it sounds really bad, I'm afraid the pump is going to fail this winter.
View 8 Replies
tried to set temp at 22c to 24c, outside temp was 18c, but no heat, nor warm air came out from the vent. cold air all the way (at least 30 minutes drive).
set it to 30c and higher, then I can feel the hot air.
i just found out from here the prius's heater performance is not good. but that bad?
is it normal or should i bring it back to toyota to look at it?
View 6 Replies
This can be heard at low speed. two to three bars on the blower speed indicator. It sound like running water. It is not the air conditioner when the compressor in on.
I can not listen to the radio all the time..... when it is peace time, radio is turned off. It sounds like the bearing is going. Had it looked at and was told that it is normal. The DC motor is suppose to be quiet?
View 1 Replies
This is the first winter with my 2012 Prius, and I've been suspicious of the climate controls. Today, my passenger complained that there was not heat going the to feet. I've always worn insulated shoes/pants so I didn't really notice before.
I jacked up my fan, increased the temperature and changed the aim to the feet/knees only. I then put my hand to where the gas pedal is. I couldn't feel any air flow at the feet. There was still plenty of air coming out of the upper side vents that blows towards your chest. The upper vent got hot, but not the feet.
Why there's no/little airflow to the feet? I'm thinking of checking my carbon filter but it is too cold be pulling out parts. I'm now suspicious if my car's air direction function works properly.
View 7 Replies
After the car shut down and had to be towed to the dealer,the inverter was replaced (fortunately we were just under the 80k mile hybrid warranty). The problem now is that the headlights and parking lights are not working. We took the car back to the dealer who said it was no doubt burnt out headlight bulbs. I told them that the parking lights were also not working and they insisted it is the headlight bulbs.
View 3 Replies
As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
View 19 Replies
I got two new Bridgestone ER300 Ecopia to replace two on the front. Trouble is after getting the tires fitted the car pulled to the left quite badly and my mpg's went down! Hmmm. I checked the tires in case a non low rolling resistance tire had been fitted by mistake, but they were correct. I then checked the pressures, which again were correct. So I guessed the tracking must have been out so booked it in with the dealers for checking. After a couple hours and a couple test drives later they advised the tracking is fine and the tires are fine. Odd.
Just filled up for the second time since the new tires and I'm struggling to get anywhere near 50 mpg! Even after a few long trips where I know from past experience that I could get mid 60's easily. I've inspected the tires closely and note that one of the new ones is made in Italy and the rest are from France. All the loadings, ratings and the type are the same, just made in a different factory and it is a slightly lighter colour compared to the French ones.
View 12 Replies
I took my Prius to get one of the air pressure sensors replaced on a front tire. When they returned it to me they told me that the ABS and the VSC lights were on and did I know that. I told them that was not on before. Anyway they told me they could not fix it an I needed to take it to the dealer to get it re-calibrated which i did.. How can I prove that this happened when the tire was being worked on, or can I?
View 4 Replies
I am so careful about doing my oil changes with someone I trust. So i went to my regular place, noticed an oil leak (my car has never leaked anything in the past) took it back - the individual had cracked the seal, they replaced it. But now 2 weeks later there is something on the ground again. What it might be?
View 3 Replies
Here in the Midwest its starting to get cold, very cold.... so the heat is getting cranked. Why doesn't Auto mode leave it on the heat setting when I leave and come back? It reverts it back to A/C.
View 19 Replies
So I replaced the front strut and the popping is still there. When I removed the old strut it seemed like that would be the problem as there isn't any play in the ball joints and tie rod end.
View 12 Replies
A few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
View 1 Replies
2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
View 1 Replies
I have a 2010 Toyota Prius. I have had it for a little over a year. A couple weeks ago I noticed that the paint on the front fender had "bubbled up" in a strip approximately 8 inches long. It felt like the fender was cracked underneath it. I took the car in to the dealership. Their service department took off the fender and said that it was warped, not broken. They said it was due to some kind of heat damage that it had been exposed to. Of course, they said it wasn't due to any malfunctioning of the car. They say the car must have been "exposed" to some kind of heat source. In other words, it is all my fault and they are not going to fix it under the warranty! I have not exposed it to any kind of heat, except sun light!
View 12 Replies
