Silverado :: Engine Power Randomly Reduce During Driving - P1516 Code Returned
Dec 6, 2009
Truck is a 2003 1500HD Silverado with the 6.0L 364V8. Last winter I started getting the P1516 code and reduced engine power randomly during driving. After dealing with it for about a month I did some research and discovered in most cases it was either the wiring/plug or the TAC module itself. After going over the connections I couldn't see any visible breaks..etc but I decided to go ahead and change out the connector and about 6inches of the wiring.
After replacement the code hadn't come back until today, probably atleast 9months ago was the last time it did it. Today the code came on four times during a 10minute drive. Before it would come on once during the drive, i'd clear it with my scan gauge, and it would not do it again the entire day. I checked all my connections once again and everything is intact and there is no visible breaks and the connector is clean. I'm starting to think that it was just a coincidence that this problem quit when I replaced the connector, and was wondering if colder weather could have weight on this issue?
After poking around the posts on here and other sites I found that many ended up replacing the TAC module which is on the throttle body. After looking at mine the only way I can see replacing that is just buying a new throttle body with the TAC on it, can't seem to find just the TAC part by itself anywhere. So if I were to order a new throttle body how hard is it to remove/install? and do I have to do a relearn process or is it plug and play?
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My truck is an 2003 2500hd with the 6l engine and 89k miles. From time to time I'm getting message "reduced engine power". Usually at the morning after 10-15 minutes after starting. I have to pull over, shut it off, wait few seconds then restart it. The ses light goes off usually by end of the day ( or after few hours ). When scanned by chevy tech showing code P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance. I have new battery with new main cable. TAC Module was cleaned.
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This truck has been a good running truck until recently..... lately you can drive for awhile then the check engine light comes on... readout says reduce engine power.... if you stop for like 30 seconds or less and restart all is fine. It doesn't do this all the time or every time has done it once a day or 4 times in a row, never a rhyme or reason to it. I have used my computer reader to see if i can find the problem myself but for some reason the reader can't read ( still trying to trace why.... even the free scan from oreillys couldn't link to my onboard computer for some reason) so the problem to the onboard computer not linking to any reader?
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I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
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For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
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Reduce power light and check engine light comes on then I can push gas pedal and I am lucky if I can go 10 mi. What might be replaced o2 sensor and throttle position sensor because it threw out those codes but still does it.
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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Last weekend I drove 200 miles non-stop. 4 times the throttle died on me, the engine returned to idle and the throttle pedal wouldn't do anything for 3-4 seconds. Then the car acted like everything was fine. No CEL, ABS, or traction lights. Scanned the car, NO CODES. This happened to my GTI 24V VR6 couple months before I sold it. VR6 issue?!? Checked VCDS and the engine has NO misfires whatsoever.
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My wife started the 2000 Toyota Sienna yesterday morning (temp about 30 degrees Fahrenheit), warmed the engine for about 30 seconds and drove a block to the stop sign. As she made a left hand turn she was in sudden shock to feel that she had no power steering. She still was able to turn and brought the car to a stop. At that point the power steering returned and she continued her mile journey and eventual return without a problem. The power steering fluid reservoir was full.
There was no puddle underneath the car. The serpentine belt was tensioned. I drove the car to the Toyota dealer and presented the problem to a front desk technician. At first he said it could be the power steering pump or rack and pinion steering assembly. When I told him that the power steering was back after she made the return he said he'd never heard of that situation. Further, he said unless the problem was showing itself when we brought the vehicle in a repairman wouldn't be able to diagnose the situation.
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When my check engine light came on I hooked up the tool to see what code I would get. This is the code I'm getting which indicates a problem with the engine oil pressure sensor/switch circuit high voltage.
Question 1: is this a simple fix and about how much do you think this would cost at a Jiffy Lube or Walmart type place?I'm also concerned because the MIL is no longer on. I'm wondering if I could have cleared it off using the tool. This morning the engine light was no longer lit and my oil pressure guage is reading no pressure at all now.
Question 2: could it be possible to have no pressure? or like the code indicates it's just a matter of the sensor not reading the pressure?
Question 3: is it safe to operate the vehicle? I'm not going to have any money in my budget for at least another month.
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I have a 00 Silverado Z71 Ext. cab, 4.8 motor and auto trans. 264,000 miles. I noticed recently when driving down the highway at times the engine will begin to surge. Usually between 40 and 50 MPH. if i let off the throttle it will smooth out or if I give it more throttle it will smooth out. What would cause this??
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My crew cab 2001 has 75K miles and is well maintained and garaged. Every once in a while the engine will just quit while driving just as if the key was turned to neutral all dash indicators light up but just quits running. Turn the key to start and hear the engine cranking but won't start. Sometime in park it just cranks however I noticed that when I move the shift lever into neutral and depress the brake it will crank and start sometimes.
I don't believe it's a fuel problem. Could it be a loose wire in the column?
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My friends 2004 6.0 f250 has 280000 miles on it and it runs perfect "did" until I tuned it with my sct tuner to run a looney tune so he could see what it was like. The truck started he revved it up to 3'000 rpm then when it returned to idle it acted like someone shut the key off. The high pressure oil system is new and has 700 psi and the icp is good also the ipr. The truck Is not getting any fuel at all, no smoke from cranking at all. It is returned to stock and is still being difficult. It has fuel I checked the upper fuel filter, it has enough oil, and it also has a good motor just don't fire. Why?
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I need to travel 20 miles every morning to work. And on the high way, I always feel the wind noise is too loud!!! Is there any product especially for reducing wind noise?
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My AC has been cooling once start-up the engine and turn it on onward. After 20-30 mins of driving, cooling has been reduce and blowing seems reduced as well.
After arriving the destination, i check the engine bay and i notice the tube part going to AC valve expansion it frozen and covered by ice.
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I have a 2001 1500 with the 5.3V8 motor (ext. cab sb 4x4 LT). I was my dads and had the service engine light on for a long time for the P0446 code. I replaced the vent valve and the purge valve and light keeps coming back on. Usually can go for a day or so and then it comes back on and I get the same P0446 code.
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08 F-350 Lariat. Folded mirrors in twice today. Second time they would not come back out. After four hours the fold function has not returned. As I read Owner's Manual, if it's a fuse it should take out power to driver's seat . . . correct? All other mirror functions including telescope seem to work normally. So if I've identified the fuse correctly what else could it be? Fold relay? Switch? Where is the fold relay located and how can one test it? What pins on the switch are the fold pins? I just looked at power distribution box schematic. Power fold mirror relay fuse is there. Apparently the only function it has. Better go check it out.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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My husband's 2004 Silverado truck randomly cuts out and stalls. He has replaced sensors and now the computer and it still randomly "dies". Three different mechanics have looked it over and checked the computer codes and can not figure out what is causing it.
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I randomly started throwing a couple codes that have been causing my "check engine" light to come on ... came on on my way into work this morning) . I know that the P0683 code is the Glow Plug Ctrl Module to PCM Comm Circuit (from my code reader), but I am not sure what to do next ... I have the dealer service DVD from 2002 that I will look at this weekend....
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