1998 Grand Cherokee V6 - Smoke When Battery Cable Disconnected With Engine Running
Jul 8, 2013
I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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My 1998 Grand Am (2.4L)radiator fan keeps running after I shut the engine off. This is after a short drive of ten minutes. Both times it did it, it was not an unusually hot day and stopped after I started and turned off the engine again. I have owned the car 7 years and it has never done this before.
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I charged the battery and now it wont stay idling? Plus I have step on the gas to start it. What it could be? Its got a full tank of gas .
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Service is coming. I have road service reimbursement. Do I have to disconnect ground cable if jumping it to start and not recharging it? The service guy said they would hook up a charge box to it but didn't need to take off the ground cable. I should make sure he switched the power of the box off when connecting and disconnecting the cables, right?
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Does it work to leave it idling or do I have to drive it and for how long? Manual shows a way to jump from another vehicle, but it needs another car with a 12V battery. Most cars have a 12V battery though don't they, or are they the wrong type and have to have another hybrid car to jump from. Do you use regular cables to do this?
What is reverse polarity and what did they do to the car that damaged the control system?
Yesterday my car ran fine. Today it started running rough when my wife drove it. When I started it to see what was going on it ran very rough. I gave it a little gas and black smoke came out of the tail pipe and now it will not start. I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the car on. I have spare at least at the coil pack to the wires. The check engine light is on but I don't have a tool to read it and I can't start it to go get it read.
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My car was running rough, with white smoke and strong gas smell coming from exhaust. It died out on me a few times as if it was not getting enough acceleration. Well, I coded it and said misfire cylinder 3 and 4. I also tried to shut down 3 and 4, but did not shut down. I switched 3 and 4 with 1 and 2, still did not shut down cylinders 3 and 4. Engine coils are good, engine module was tested and passed twice. Ok, fuel injectors 3 and 4 were leaky and I changed them out. New spark plugs and boots. New oil and filter..(There was gas in my oil and oil in my air filter.) With the new parts....my car sounds soooo much better!!! still a little rough, does not bog down, but it still has the strong gas smell and white smoke from exhaust..(gas smell soo bad I had to open all doors to the garage!!) What else could be wrong?!?! I'm getting frustrated!! It also has NOT ever over heated, does not run high.
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0. Check engine light will not go out. Took to Autozone , Orileys ,and Jeep Dealer. No codes found. Replaced cooling fan relay, when light first came on. Everything works fine now. Have tried myself to shut light off, disconnect batt. cables 10 min, 30 min. and other methods, no luck , still, on ? I have even traced the cooling fan relay wire to PCM, all OK.
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While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
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My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
I have an '01 Grand AM GT, 6 cyl 3400 engine.
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It over heated about a week ago, coolant was low so I added more. Around that time I noticed white smoke/exhaust coming out as well. There was no odor to it so at first I thought nothing of it.
After a few days, the coolant reservoir was low again. On my way home one night I noticed an engine knock that sped up and slowed down with the RPM's but didnt get louder or quieter. Fortunately, the next day the Passlock system kicked in and I havent been able to start my car in a week.
I finally figured out the passlock issue (BCM was getting water in it from somewhere, cleaned off the connector pins and it started right up! found that fix somewhere on AF)
I changed the oil and the engine knock is still there. Now its a little more prominent and the engine was shaking tonight. Took out the spark plugs and they look and smell like they have oil on them. From what I've read so far it seems like it could be a valve cover gasket and/or the head gasket.
Leaking intake manifold gaskets on General Motors 3.1L V6 engines? Mine is a 1998 Grand Am with low milage (40K) and I have been told I need to spend $900 to replace the intake manifold gasket because it is leaking antifreeze into the engine oil.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Engine is running rough. Check engine light comes on. Code is P0152. The code is defined as high voltage on the front o2 sensor (bank 2). I hooked up the scanner again and checked the voltages. Both O2 sensors on bank 2 are never making it above 0.1V. That seems to contradict what the DTC is telling me. Is that somehow related to the fact that it is not going into closed loop? I'm a little confused.
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The engine cranks and turns over when I turn the key, but won't stay running unless I give it some gas. My mechanic doesn't know what's wrong with it, but I haven't starting having him replace parts. What's going wrong. Could it be the fuel filter? fuel pump?
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My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo won't start...It cranks strong but won't turn over..I can hear my Fuel Pump kick on from the back of the Vehicle but it won't kick on listening from the engine compartment??I checked all fuses.I had a tune up a couple of months ago..My check engine light was on before the tune up and my mechanic said that the tune up corrected the problem the car was coding out... I've been told to check the ALARM by turning the alarm on and off and also unlocking the car Via the driver door.. This didn't work.. I've been told to check the Fuel cut off switch(RESET BUTTON) for my make and year but can't seem to locate it...
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a hard steering problem. I've changed the power steering pump, high pressure hose and gearbox.... the fan spins slow and it still steers hard ... could this be a hydrolic fan problem ???
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What is the solution to the "Service 4WD Switch" error message. My 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo(4WD ALL-Time) keeps displaying this message every 2 minutes and it's so distracting. My mechanic doesn't seem to have a clue.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
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Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
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After about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
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I have a 2013 Elantra and had to disconnect the battery. Once the battery was reconnected, there is no sound coming from my speakers. The radio turns off/on, searches for stations, etc. Everything I have read tells me to push the reset button, which is a tiny hole on the radio face plate. I have had 4 different people look for it, and it is NOT there. Looked in the owners manual about battery change and it says to reset the radio, but the manual has no instructions on how to do this. We have pulled fuses, disconnected and reconnected the battery again but it still doesn't work. Purchased the car used and never received any information on the radio code as other forums say I need to have. 2 hours in the car in silence is not fun.
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
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I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
I closed the trunk on my 2009 BMW 328i after I disconnected the battery. I was trying to change the battery but needed to get more supplies. So, I closed the trunk Now I can't open the trunk. The battery is in the trunk.
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