Over the last several weeks my car (2010 Hyundai Accent, 60k miles) started randomly stalling on me. I took it to my mechanic earlier this week and all 4 ignition coils were replaced. Yesterday I accidentally left my headlights on for about 2.5 hours and the car was completely dead. I got it jumped and drove it around for about 35 minutes. I had the battery tested at Autozone and they said it is good. Then last night it stalled in the McDonald's line - I was able to restart it and get home but this morning it is completely dead again. Also twice yesterday after starting up the car the rpm dial wasn't moving at all. The car was accelerating just fine but the rpm dial did not reflect this. Of the several times I drove it yesterday it only did this twice. Someone told me to bring the battery to Autozone to get it fully charged, but does that explain the rpm dial not moving?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord Ex that began to run very rough when cold. After warming up it seemed fine. Now the car runs rough whether hot or cold. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. The cap, rotor, and wires all appear to be good.
View 5 RepliesMy 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
View 2 RepliesSo, I've had my car for about 4 years now. It's a 2008 basic PT Cruiser. About two years ago it started to make this weird noise whenever the AC was on. My car would shake and rumble if the AC was on during idle and the AC wouldn't be cool anymore. Whenever I was driving, it was fine. We charged it and then it quit doing that. A little after that, it started making this weird noise when I turned it on-kind of sounding like something was being banged around under the hood of my car. It also started to make this loud kind of screeching noise, and some gas or steam would sometimes (not often) come out from under the hood.
Then I got in a wreck and they said they fixed it when they repaired the car. Now, 2 years later, it's starting to make that same noise. The rumbling has continued, but when I charge it, it goes away. I just charged my AC about 5 weeks ago, but now it's starting again and the noise just started again this morning. I was told that there was a disc (something like that?) that may have cut my belt, but they said that they fixed that when they repaired my car from the wreck. If that was fixed, then shouldn't it not be doing this?
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. While driving, it seems at random, all gauges drop and stop working, no gas getting to the car, power loss. Sometimes lasts a split second, sometimes lasts up to 30 seconds. The car will even stall here and there, but usually not. Usually, power gets restored. But sometimes the car won't even start for an extended period of time. Of course, when the mechanic takes it for a ride it does nothing wrong.
View 2 RepliesI know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 Subaru Outback with a little over 162,000 miles. About 3 years ago I had the head gaskets replaced. This past March the car started over heating while on the highway driving back to Boston from New Jersey. It has been doing this intermittently since then, and I have had two mechanics look at it.
The first mechanic, who is my beloved mechanic in Maine (where I am originally from), checked the sensors and relays. He even replaced the relays for free, and it still overheated on the way back from Maine to Boston. Needless to say I did not give him enough time to really look at my car to figure out the problem.
I then went to my back up mechanic in Boston, who kept the car for about 4 days. He said there are no leaks and the car did not actually over heat while with him. He had one of his guys drive the car home at night and back to the shop in traffic in the AM, and had it run for hours while on a lift, and on the ground. Still no overheating. However, he did say that the car was eating up coolant, which indicated to him that there might be a head gasket problem.
I was a little upset by this diagnosis because I had them replaced already, and also because I am getting married this summer so this obviously is not the right time to be buying a new car. I should mention that both mechanics looked at my car at the end of August. I have still been driving and watching the coolant.
The car is still randomly overheating but i tend to notice it happen more while in stop and go traffic and when I accelerate. The needle will go all the way up to red, stay there for a few seconds and then slowly creep down. This happened this morning, and I had checked the coolant yesterday and it was full! I checked it again at lunch time to see if it had used all the coolant during rush hour and it was still full. This chain of events seems to keep happening and I constantly check the coolant. Since August I have only had to fill it once. I have also noticed that when I open the radiator cap the coolant is not sitting level like I've been told it should. I've put a decent amount of work into the car and everything else runs perfectly.
Is it possible that this is a pumping or air bubble problem, and not a head gasket?
The back gate of my blazer won't open, nor will my window close. It seems like the lock won't unlock. But Other than that, I'm stumped.
View 6 Replies2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
View 12 RepliesSo I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..