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A few days ago I went to start my car and nothing happen I saw no dome light so I went and purchased a new battery. I replaced the battery and saw I had a dome light. I went to turn over the car and nothing happened. No sound no nothing, I did notice my radio (( Stock still )) was not able to be turned on..
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I have a Volvo P1800 I am restoring. The problem I have is the brakes don't work. The brake peddle does to the floor so I think and have read that this is due to the master brake cylinder. I removed the to of the master reservoir and found it is bone dry but the main reservoir is full? Why this is if the seals have failed surely there would still be brake fluid in the master reservoir???
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I own a 2009 Cadillac Escalade (no I don't write rap tunes) and for the past 5 years it has been an excellent vehicle to drive. It still is, but under certain conditions I am experiencing a shudder which lowers the confidence that I usually have in my vehicle. Specifically, when I am climbing a hill and the transmission is in a higher gear, say 4th and the RPMs are relatively low, say 1800, I feel a shudder as the car goes up the hill. When I let my foot off the gas the shudder stops. If I manually shift into a lower gear and raise the RPMs, the engine responds with power galore and I climb the hill without any effort and without any shudder (most of the time). The engine is smooth and is not sputtering when this shudder happens. I do not hear any unusual sounds under the car when this happens.
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I took it to the GM dealer and they did all they could (analyzed the car for codes, monitored fuel flow rates, searched for GM bulletins, etc) but their response was "we experienced the shudder but cannot find the issue - bring it back when it gets worse". I read that BG44K will do a good job of cleaning the fuel system in the engine so I tried that but nothing changed. I have about 50K miles on the car and did my 50K maintenance just before a cross-country trip; on the way back from this long trip is when this issue started. The 50K maintenance included changing the transmission fluid and cleaning the filter (not replacing it), changing the differential oil, the transfer case oil, engine oil and filter, inspecting the vehicle, etc. I will continue to drive the vehicle and will bring it back to the dealer if it gets worse, but I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do if it never does and I continually experience this shudder. Or what happens if it gets worse all of a sudden and I'm unable to drive the car up a hill at all?
My Plymouth Breeze is having issues starting up. It started a while back, my wife was driving the car and she got stranded because her car wouldn't start. I gave her a jump. I had the battery and alternator tested and the battery was bad, but supposedly that alternator is good--so I replaced the battery. We get a week or twos use out of it, and the the rear brakes sprung a leak-- so I replaced the rear brake lines. When I tried take the new brakes lines for a test drive the car wouldn't start. I have a battery charger and used the 50 amp start feature, the car would still not start (it would turn over but not start). So I gave the battery a deep charge from the battery charger and the next day it was fine. My wife used it for a week and all seemed well. That is until the other day where she tells me it has a new problem.
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Apparently the defroster randomly turns off and on, and the vent constantly switches which direction it is blowing. She took it out for a drive while it was like this and got stranded again. I went to give her a jump and the car wouldn't start at all. In fact none of the electrical came on, it was as if the battery had been disconnected. So we eventually get the car towed, and as I put the key in the ignition to put the car in neutral I hear the beeping to indicate the car door is open. I tried to start it and all of the electrical shut off again. So the guys tows car back, having to push it into a parking spot. I realized the tow truck driver left the keys in the ignition and it just occurs to me he had rolled the window down. I get in the car and turn the key and it starts up without hesitation, like there were not problems at all. Needless to say I'm a little confused and frustrated with this car. I'd like to get another year or so out of it before I replace it.
So here is what I am thinking...Battery: This should be fine I just replaced it.Alternator: I had it tested coupled with the last scenario leads me to believe this probably isn't the problem, but is suspect.Starter: This seems to work when there is power, so I don't think that is it.Fuses: They either work or they don't, there is no "getting better" so I doubt it is a fuse.Computer: I think this might be the culprit. Before I had to give it another jump (when it wouldn't take) things were turning off and on at random. It is also the only thing I can think of that might act in a fickle way.
Another theory is a loose wire coming off of the battery.
The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
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I have a 2003 Subaru outbackI got my AC charged since it was not cooling. As soon as I left the shop I had a fog horn noise coming from the passenger side of the car. It comes and goes and even occurs when the defrost is on. Also the car runs rough when the noise occurs. The roughness stops and the fog horn noise stops when I turn off the AC or defrost. I took it to my mechanic and he has never heard that noise before. It really sounds like a fog horn.
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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The problem I have is when it is cold out under 40 degrees, my car starts rough and idles rough until it gets to temperature. My research has concluded it may be cold start. Does this sound right?
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my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
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I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
It takes a LONG time for my heater to warm up... to be expected of an old car. However, once my heater is warmed up enough, it blows cold air when I'm idling at a light or anything. Once I get back up to 35 MPH it goes right back up to its temperature. Then drops again when I stop.
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