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Impala - Chevrolet :: 2004 - Speedometer Will Shift 10 Or 20 Mph Faster Than Actual Speed
Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
View 5 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Oil Filter House Leaking?
Here's my situation: I was driving back from a conference last Sunday afternoon with 4 passengers in 85 degree weather. After about 5 minutes on the road, I noticed that the A/C stopped working and the vent wouldn't increase in speed under any fan setting. 30 minutes later, I hit stop-and-go traffic (with more stop than go) and the Service Engine Soon light came on. The engine was laboring just as we got out of the gridlock. The last 7 miles were smooth and at 45mph. After the car cooled, I checked the oil and engine coolant--both were fine. The fan worked again as well, now responding to each fan setting. And the Service light went off. And this is where my knowledge of cars abruptly stops--if it's not the oil or coolant, what is it? More importantly, is it safe to drive 150 miles on Friday to get to my home dealership?
View 1 RepliesDodge - Suspension - Intrepid :: 2002 - RPMs Rev / Get Out Of Control
I'm having an issue w/ a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. Randomly, while driving along, the RPMs revv, out of control...wind-out...for no apparent reason. The only fix, is to pull over, put vehicle in park, turn off engine, then restart engine, and put into gear and drive...thing is, this happens, often....a LOT..and is very much a nuisance...It seems there are no common triggers for this issue, except its driving me crazy..
View 10 RepliesAMC - Eagle :: Random Hard Starts / Whirring Sound With Absence Of Crank
I recently got my(AMC Eagle '87) car running great again but now it doesn't want to start all the time! Sometimes it starts right up other times it take 5 tries or so. I turn the ignition and it sounds like it wants to engage and begin to crank but doesn't. It makes a sound like VRRR (like its about to crank) then just dies out and WHHHIIRRRRSSssss (getting quieter)... like something is just spinning. I did a couple tests on the wall mounted solenoid before getting rained out and it seemed to be getting juice flowing throw it. No difference in Ohms from testing the S Terminal and then the ground terminal. I also replaced my starter around 6 years ago. Does this seem like a starter issue? Bad solenoid? Bad cable? I really hope it isn't a flywheel issue!
View 1 RepliesMazda - Mazda6 :: 2004 - Burning Oil Smell And Sluggish Acceleration
Car Details : 2004 Mazda 6 V6 3.0 L engine automatic transmission with 88,000 miles
Car Problem Vignette : After driving for a bit, say 20-30 mins (after my engine gets hot), I start to smell a burning oil smell. I’ve looked under the hood at my engine and do notice some oil leaking from the engine. This is not just some simple oil leaking after an oil change. The oil appears to be coming out of the engine "seams" itself. This has persisted for some time now. This problem started at least a year and a half ago now (12/05/12). I’ve had a mechanic take a look at the oil leak and supposedly he fixed the head gasket or valve cover gasket (I’m not sure which one), but the problem never fully resolved.
In a related or unrelated situation (I’m not sure yet if it is related) during this time my car started to jerk and sputter when I drove, so much so that I wasn’t sure it was going to make it to work one morning. The check engine light came on and I eventually made it to work and back home that day. It gave me a code that said one of my cylinders was misfiring. I proceeded to change all of my spark plugs to no avail. I then changed out one of my ignition coils to the bad cylinder misfire. It fixed my problems with the stuttering and I could drive my car again without fear of stalling. However, I still smelled burning oil. Over time I eventually started to feel my car struggle to take off during acceleration which felt different from when my car seemed like it was going to jerk and sputter to a stall. During this time frame one day I was at a stop light and when I went to take off, a huge plume of bluish / white smoke came out the exhaust and I smoke-screened the people behind me. After that incident, I ended up changing my positive crankcase valve (PCV). After changing my PCV my car felt like brand-new again! I could not believe it! My car started accelerating smoothly and driving so much better. I felt like I had gotten the “Zoom Zoom” back for my Mazda.
Sadly this didn’t last long, maybe a month at the most. My car started struggling during acceleration again and I started smelling burning oil again. I have dealt with this for over a year now. My car still runs and gets me around, but I can’t remember the last time that my car ran smoothly or didn’t smell like burning oil except for that time I changed the PCV. I have never seen any kind of smoke coming out of my exhaust again like that one experience.
Problems:
•Burning oil smell coming from my engine due to leaking oil coming out the "seams" of the engine
•Car is struggling when accelerating especially at lower gears
•I feel it every so often when I accelerate somewhere between 2nd and 3rd gear that the car jerks and makes this “chunk” type sound and feeling when it shifts gears.
Questions:What is wrong with my car? Are all these situations related? And what do I need to do to stop the oil leak and acceleration problem?
Touareg :: 2005 VW - Engine Would Sputter And Buck At Idle
2005 VW Tuareg, 67,000 miles. Engine sputtering and bucking - but only under specific circumstance. If I drive the car over 40 mph for even a short distance and then turn the engine off, the car will start back up normally the next time I start it. But if I were to move the car, say, from the driveway to the street then turn the engine off, the next time I start it, the engine would sputter and buck at idle. It would also buck when I put it in gear and run roughly until I hit above 40 mph, then it would smooth out. Thus, the problem only presents itself if the engine is turned on and the car not allowed to run above 40 mph before it is turned off again. The engine light is on, and the dealership says it's cam adjusters not working right,i.e., meaning BIG $$ to fix. Does that sound plausible?
View 8 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2007 - CEL Went On / Off On Its Own
One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
View 2 RepliesJeep - Wrangler :: 1999 - Hard To Put In First Gear - Grinds When Putting In Reverse
I have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.
Fiat - 500 :: Periodically Getting String Of Warning Messages?
So a friend of mine recently leased a 2016 Fiat 500x and they're experiencing a problem where about once a week, they'll get a string of like 10 warning messages all in a row on the dashboard. The say something is wrong with the airbag, the power train, the electric parking brake, and too many other things to recall offhand. The thing is, nothing is actually wrong. The car works fine aside from those error messages coming up.
My friend took it into the local fiat dealership to get it looked it and they were able to pull the records of all those warning messages from the computer. They kept the car for 5 days before finally getting it back to her, but a week later she started getting the messages again. They only come up about once a week.
Nissan - 350z :: Gas Gauge Does Not Read Correctly / Rarely Shows Tank Full
I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.