2006 Subaru Outback. It has around 121000. I bought it at 113,000 last October since my previous 1998 Subaru made it to 240,000. So far I've taken it in for all new wiring and a tune up. And I was assured by the car salesman that the timing belt had been changed prior to my purchase. Anyway, since August I've had a rattly/whirring sound that I am experiencing over 15 mph. It seems to be coming from the back of my vehicle. It sounded like I had a hole in the muffler because it was reminiscent of when I lost my muffler on the highway with my 1998 subaru a few years ago, but this sound is definitely not as loud. The sound does increase in volume at high speeds on the highway but has so far not been as loud as my previous experience. (and the muffler is still there when i look under the car)
When I took my car in to get the oil changed a couple months ago, I asked the mechanic to check and see if he saw anything while under there. They told me it was my heat shield.
Recently the noise started being a little bit louder on the highway so I thought maybe it was my tires since they were very due to be replaced. I bought new tires within the last few weeks and there has been no change with the whirring sound on the highway. Yesterday, I noticed a light thunking sound that started happening between the speeds 10-40mph. It seems to be in the front of my car and occurring with the rotation of my wheels. There are no sounds when Idle.
I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
I have an '04 Subaru Forester which sputters and stalls after fill up. It sends error codes for cylinders 1, 3, & 4 misfiring...I only have a 4 cylinder car - This only started Friday - a few days later and I'm really getting desperate. I screw my gas cap on, we check the connections...and we've read all kinds of random solutions that spread across the board.
View 18 RepliesHow to disable the "I AGREE" button that appears every time the car is started? I have seen other posts that refer to this issue on other non GX models, and take about putting the system in "simple mode" by pressing the SCAN button eight times, then the REPEAT or another button after that. I have tried this on my 2006 GX but with no luck. After I put the audio system into CD playing mode, I press the SCAN button repeatedly and quickly but all it does is scan the audio tracks.
The only other thing I know about my GX is that it is still on its original nav software, and is scheduled to receive the update which my Lexus dealer says is coming out in October. Not sure if this affects its ability to bypass the "I AGREE" screen, or if the software update will affect it either.
I drive a 2003 VW Passat StationWagon.
The mechanic changed the axle abt a month ago and I can now feel/hear a vibrating sound when I stop at a light. My husband says this is lesser 1) when he puts it in neutral 2) when it is warmer outside or after riding for a while. I agree with 1) but not 2). The mechanic says this will happen and we should wait a bit for this to lessen. Is this so?
In addition now, we notice that the temperature guage on the dashboard is not showing a reading. Not sure it is related to the axle change, since we did not pay attention to it that time. We got the mechanic to take a look and he says the engine is heating up fine (the heater comes on fine, though I think it is not as powerful as before), and he feels it may be bcos the thermostat is exposed outside. He asked us to wait for a couple of weeks to see if it corrects itself. I am concerned about this.
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, mileage app. 106,000. Check engine light first came on when driving to destination 40+ miles away (most of my driving is shorter, around-town trips). My mechanic said code is P0420 and so they reset it and said if it comes on again that I need a new cat converter. It did not come on until about 6 weeks later when I was on a longer trip again (had driven about 40-50 miles). Can you tell me if the P0420 code absolutely means that a new cat. conv. is needed or if it could possibly be a sensor or something else hopefully less costly than a new cc?
View 3 RepliesHaving a Scion xb engine problem. I took my scion to a scion dealer and the told me i blew my engine because it hydro locked due to water enter the intake through a custom installed intake. When I took the engine to another mechanic, three of them, They told me that there was no way that water caused my engine to seize up and blow a rod.
View 30 RepliesI have a 97 pontiac sunfire that will crank, but will only start when I hear the fuel pump running. My mechanict says that the fuel pump is not getting electricity. He is not an electric automotive mechanic, so what needs to be checked when the fuel pump is not getting electrical current. How do i fix it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.