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Ignition - Stalling :: 1961 Scout Starts And Immediately Dies
I have a 1961 International Scout 80. I picked it up about a month ago and have been working on it ever since. It has been running a little rough but ok. Carb definitely could use at least a cleaning. Recent history is as follows...Brought home a month ago. replaced clutch hydraulics and rebuilt rear brakes 3 weeks ago. Began rewiring 2 weeks ago including removing dash, choke and throttle cables.
Completed rewiring of engine and lights and most of dash. Some wires are still left open. Since replacing the clutch hydraulics I have been starting it up every few days to drive from a parking space, about 100 ft, to the garage. 2 days ago after finishing working for the night I drove and parked it. The next morning it will not run. It starts and then immediately dies. I know there is a number of things it could be I just don't know the best way to go about diagnosing the issue.
Subaru - Legacy :: 1998 - Intermittent / Delayed Starting After Several Tries Of Turning The Switch
'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
Oldsmobile - Intrigue - Transmissions :: Shutters Then Seems To Go Into Gear At 35 Mph
168k and going strong..kinda. At @35mph it shutters then seems to go into gear. At @ 45mph it revs and the techomter goes above 2k rpms and it feels like I'm using the brake pedal, but I am not. Simple fix(not alot$$) or major? PS, I've changed trans fluid but no luck. If I stay below 45, no problem. Seems 3+4th gear have me stumped?
View 4 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2010 - Overheating When Accelerating / No Heat In Cabin
My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Rattle In Dash / Appears To Lessen As Car Warms Up
I have a rattle in the dash of my 2015 Sonata Limited. Dealer had the car for three days and replaced a part in the steering column that was supposed to solve the problem unfortunately it did not. I am reluctant to bring the car back to have the dash torn apart again. Funny thing about the rattle it appears to lessen as the car warms up.
View 14 RepliesToyota - Tacoma :: 1989 - Won't Start Up And Intermittently Dies - CEL Comes On
I have driven small Toyota 4X4 pickups since 1980 including an '89 for the past 25 years and > 200,000 miles. One day a couple of months ago it would crank but would not start although battery and starter seem fine. I did some basic testing eventually measuring the ignition coil resistance (within published range) and inspecting the distributor cap (looked fine). Upon reassembly, it started right up and ran fine for a few weeks. I hadn't really done anything beside cleaning the rotor and cap contacts, moving around the wiring while in the process.
A few weeks ago I was driving in traffic just a few miles from home and it momentarily lost power twice within a mile. Check engine light was noted the second time. I was busy watching the cars ahead of me the first time. Both times it resumed running on it's own and I continued on. A couple of weeks later it died three times within a few miles from home.
The first two times I was able to pull off out of traffic. Several minutes later, I was able to restart the engine. The third time I was stuck in a turn lane at an intersection, police arrived right away and the vehicle was towed to the dealer where I had purchased it only two miles away. They have been unable to reproduce the problem but believe they have eliminated the fuel filter and fuel pump as the cause. They have driven the vehicle several miles and left it running for an hour and a half with no problems noted. No diagnostic codes were recovered.
They now want me to retrieve the undiagnosed, unrepaired vehicle. We know it will fail again, probably under the worst possible circumstances. In heavy traffic, a multi-vehicle crash with associated injuries or deaths could result. It's like if the vehicle itself doesn't tell them what to do, they don't know how to approach such a problem on their own any more. I'm not in a position to pour unlimited funds into a vehicle I have recently replaced (with a 2014 Tacoma). There must be a logical approach beyond checking the fuel filter and pump but they seem clueless. I can't safely drive the vehicle and won't offer it for sale until the problem is identified and corrected.
Century :: 2000 Buick - Wet Carpet Only On Rear Right Passenger Side In Rain
Wet carpet only on rear right passenger side after it rains.
View 2 RepliesDodge - Suspension - Dakota :: 2002 - Headlights Won't Come On
The parking lights come on, the turn signal lights work, the interior lights and high beams work. Could it just be a fuse or two? Dodge Dakota 4WD 2002 ...
View 3 RepliesFord - Explorer :: Turn Signal On Driver Side Not Working
My turn signal on the driver’s side isn’t working. It clicks quickly like when the bulb is out. The rear one on that side still works, but blinks quickly…which is normal when the front one isn’t working. It didn’t just stop working all at once. Over the course of the last year or more, it has gradually gone out--it would work for a few days and not for a while. A few months ago, it worked about half the time. Now it won’t ever work and I’m due for an inspection. Here is what I’ve determined so far:
It isn’t the bulb…I’ve tried a new bulb.
It isn’t the socket. I took the socket in my hand in the picture and switched it with the passenger side and the driver side still didn’t work and the passenger still did worked.
The plug that the socket goes into on the picture…I cleaned it good and used a little lubricant on it, but that didn’t work either. If that plug is bad, the local parts stores don’t carry it and can’t get it, so I'll have to go to the Ford House.
Prius C (Audio/Electronics) :: Illumination Of Audio And AC Display In Bright Sunlight
Sometimes in the bright sunlight, I cannot see the audio display or the small AC display that shows which vents the air is coming out from. Is there any way to illuminate these displays? Will some LEDs around them work or make it worse? I'm driving a C two. I have no intention of upgrading to an aftermarket sound system; I just want a simple inexpensive way to see the info on the screen.
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