The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
View 2 RepliesMy son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Subaru Impreza that I have been nursing along for the past 14 years. Recently, if I drive for a decent length of time (~10 miles), turn the car off to go into a store, and then try to start it up again, it won't start. It turns over fine, but never fully starts. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will start back up again. The temperature gauge reads normal--between hot and cold. Is there another temperature sensor that might be malfunctioning, telling the car that the engine is too hot to start? Where/what is this called?
View 6 RepliesMy engine light came on last November which was diagnosed as “fan clutch seized”. My automatic transmission’s coolant fan clutch was replaced. Since then and on more than one occasion while returning from skiing in the mountains, I will hear this loud whining sound coming from the transmission area. I only hear it when the car is de-accelerating and I have not been able to replicate it once I am out of the mountains and the outside temperature is warmer. Is this a faulty fan clutch issue?
View 2 RepliesMy accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
View 4 RepliesThis has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
2002 Windstar A/C problem. Blows cold in the rear but not the front. Blend door actuator in the front is operating properly. Compressor cycles on and off but not excessively. When temp levers in full warm air blows to floor but it is not warm. Compressor runs even when the A/C on/off switch is in the off position. Indicator light is off but compressor still runs. Condensate puddles on floor in rear but none in front under vehicle.
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 hyundai accent makes a humming noise while driving. it gets louder the faster i accelerate. I have checked the wheel bearing but they appear to be fine. i jacked the car up and tested the wheel by pulling and pushing back and forth at the 12 o' clock position and etc. no give in either wheel. i also held the spring and spun both wheels with no vibration. I also rotated tires back to front. when i did this noise seemed to be lower.But still there. I did hit a fallen sign on the highway going 70 mph. I am wondering if this may have damaged my tires or if it still could be wheel bearing. and there is no vibration in steering wheel or while driving. just annoying humming.
View 1 RepliesI have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
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