I own a 1998 Dodge Stratus (ES Sedan 4D, 2.4 liter, automatic) and driving to a restaurant on Friday I ran over a rather nasty pothole. It had once had a metal plate over it, but it was 3/4 of the way uncovered and I hit so hard that the front of the car bottomed out hard on the pavement. I made sure I hadn't popped a tire and was on my way. Later that evening I got back in the car to go home and the battery had died suddenly. I knew I had not left any lights/systems on in the car. I got a jump and the car made it home, clicking, with lights flickering and gauge needles wobbling the whole way.
I left it for the weekend, and tried to assess the situation further after work on Monday. The battery in the Stratus is located under the driver's side wheel well, so I removed the cover to check if there were any loose wires/connections and there weren't. I got the car jumped and made it to an Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested (again with clicking, flickering lights/gauges). Right before I got there, the battery light in the dash turned on.
The battery was tested almost completely dead, and it took about 30 minutes to get to the AAP from my house. It wouldn't jump again, so I had to get AAA to tow it back to my house (It took the AAA guy about 5 tries to jump it using his tow truck's battery, and it lasted long enough to drive it up onto the truck bed).
I didn't want to buy a new battery, in case there was something wrong with the alternator and the new battery would just get sucked dry like the old one. What might have happened. It seems strange that a battery would just die so suddenly with no warning and I don't want to get ripped off at a mechanic because I have no idea what might have happened (I don't know much about cars except for really basic stuff.)
I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
1991 Vanagon GL-Ok, first off my gas gauge was inoperable so we traced it down to the sending unit. Disconnected the battery, drained the tank, dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit and all the fuel lines, seals, etc. In the meantime we also replaced the starter while it was up. Gassed her up, tried to start it. Nothing. Lifted it up again, checked the starter unit to see if it was getting a current, no current. Went to the fuse box, tested the fuses, all is good. Went to the battery and tested it, it was producing a current. Thought we might have moved, hit, loosen something when putting the gas tank back in so we lowered the tank to see if there was anything loose, disconnected, etc. Nothing. Reinstalled the tank. Went to the engine compartment and tested the alternator, no juice. Damn. Traced the wiring from the battery to the engine and test the battery cable, no juice in the harness by the gas tank. Went to the front of the van, took out the drivers headlight and tested the lines there. There is a long green object like a capacitor or something with three wired running to it, tested it no juice flowing through it. Tested a connection before the long green object and there is juice there. Is it the long green thing? Do I need to call in the Witches of Warwick to de-demonize it?
View 6 Replies96 civic 120K miles, stock, automatic.
In March I was running low on fuel, maybe 1 gallon left in the tank. It took a few cranks and on the last try i gave it a little gas and it started, albeit very rocky for about 1 minute of driving, filled up immediately and 2 freeway miles later, no real issues. I live in LA so very low ambient temperature is not a problem.
April through May, starting was a little rocky, it was inconsistently rocky too, sometimes there was no problem. Usually it's weak, stuttering, sometimes just cranking but I seem to get it to start. I stopped giving the pedal gas because I read that's bad (I own a vintage bike, so it's news to me). I don't drive that far and figured I'd try some Seafoam and some freeway miles would clean out any debris. Worked for that tank a bit for the next tank before the problem came back.
Still getting the rough starts, but now when I give the car gas as I pull out sometimes it doesn't accelerate for 15-30 seconds, maybe 25 yards then it drive like normal. No dying at all but getting worse with starting up.
I've tried turning the key (not turning the engine over) 5 times and cranking on the 6th and it seems to work. I thought maybe it's the fuel pump or fuel filter but read it could be an ignition coil/ spark plug/ spark plug wire issue. Two different ball games.
My MPG is not really droppingI had a new fuel filter put in in February as routine maintenance (thing was on so tight had to bring it to a shop so no rookie mistakes there). Timing belt &water pump replaced 6,000 miles ago
I have a 2009 Kia Rio5 that has started to have a strange, intermittent issue. It's an automatic and sometimes when I turn my car on and go to put it in to gear, the car sort of shudders and it feels like something is having a hard time moving in the front of the car. The act of shifting is easy but it sounds/feels like the car is having trouble with it. Then, when I get going, the shift up from 1st to 2nd has the same symptom. The car shudders, there is some lag, and then it goes in to gear. After that it feels, but is hard to determine, that it doesn't downshift after it goes up into a higher gear. When I slow down my RPMs drop to an oddly low amount and accelerating from a stop is quite different. The car has ~33k miles on it and the transmission fluid looks ok. There are no lights indicating an error.
View 2 RepliesI have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
View 2 Repliesi have a vibration that starts about 45mph."When i put it in neutral it still vibrates". I did check the universals. Rig has 195,000 miles on it. Manual trans. It must be lifted because im running 265/7516s on it. Ive been busy changing fluids and such so i have been underneath it but didnt look for lift or factory.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
View 3 RepliesHow accurate is the stock boost gauge on 02 wrx? is it a real boost gauge or is it just for show? 3000gt vr4 has one, but it is not a real one and work with maf sensor only. also is stock bov good for 15-16 psi. we have a stock 02 wrx and we are thinking to up the boost to about 1 bar, but not sure i can trust the stock boost gauge. the car also has catback and cold air intake on it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
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