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Geo - Metro :: 1996 - Popping 15 Amp Ignition Fuse Randomly?
My 96 Metro for some reason is popping the 15 amp ignition fuse randomly. First time it happened I disconnected the alternator and replaced the fuse and it got me home. Pulled the alternator and had it tested and it tested fine. Put it back in and everything worked for about a month. It popped the fuse again while driving down the road. I disconnected the alternator again but this time the fuse still blew. I disconnected the coil replaced the fuse turned on the key and the fuse did not pop. I reconnected everything and it worked fine. Hasn't repeated itself in a week. I think there is a short somewhere. Just can't find it.
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2008 - Gauge Is Showing That Engine Is Hot But Actually Not Overheating
I have a 2008 Subaru Outback that is telling me that it is overheating, the gauge is showing me that the engine is as hot as it could possibly get. However, its not actually overheating. It happened after a 15 hour day of driving from Cali to Colorado on 2 lane highways. In the morning it took 6 tries to get started, just sounded like maybe there wasn't enough gas or something to get it going and if I fluttered the gas pedal the car threatened to quit on me. Since that moment the temperature gauge has been stuck on high, the check engine light is on, the cruise control is disabled and flashing on the dash, and the AC doesn't work. I have turned the car off several times since the incident and it starts up just fine so far but the gauge and lights are still on. ......
View 5 RepliesSaab - Heating - 9-5 :: Blend Door Motor Not Opening To Allow System To Switch From Air To Heat
I have a SAAB 2000 95, and the heat isn't working. I was told by a local shop that the blend door motor isn't opening to allow the system to switch from air to heat. He said that the heating system was working, but that the hot air can't exit the dash. He said it would have to be repaired at a dealership.
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - Cobalt :: 2009 Will Not Start In Cold But Only Sometimes
My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
Mazda - Mazda6 :: 2004 - Burning Oil Smell And Sluggish Acceleration
Car Details : 2004 Mazda 6 V6 3.0 L engine automatic transmission with 88,000 miles
Car Problem Vignette : After driving for a bit, say 20-30 mins (after my engine gets hot), I start to smell a burning oil smell. I’ve looked under the hood at my engine and do notice some oil leaking from the engine. This is not just some simple oil leaking after an oil change. The oil appears to be coming out of the engine "seams" itself. This has persisted for some time now. This problem started at least a year and a half ago now (12/05/12). I’ve had a mechanic take a look at the oil leak and supposedly he fixed the head gasket or valve cover gasket (I’m not sure which one), but the problem never fully resolved.
In a related or unrelated situation (I’m not sure yet if it is related) during this time my car started to jerk and sputter when I drove, so much so that I wasn’t sure it was going to make it to work one morning. The check engine light came on and I eventually made it to work and back home that day. It gave me a code that said one of my cylinders was misfiring. I proceeded to change all of my spark plugs to no avail. I then changed out one of my ignition coils to the bad cylinder misfire. It fixed my problems with the stuttering and I could drive my car again without fear of stalling. However, I still smelled burning oil. Over time I eventually started to feel my car struggle to take off during acceleration which felt different from when my car seemed like it was going to jerk and sputter to a stall. During this time frame one day I was at a stop light and when I went to take off, a huge plume of bluish / white smoke came out the exhaust and I smoke-screened the people behind me. After that incident, I ended up changing my positive crankcase valve (PCV). After changing my PCV my car felt like brand-new again! I could not believe it! My car started accelerating smoothly and driving so much better. I felt like I had gotten the “Zoom Zoom” back for my Mazda.
Sadly this didn’t last long, maybe a month at the most. My car started struggling during acceleration again and I started smelling burning oil again. I have dealt with this for over a year now. My car still runs and gets me around, but I can’t remember the last time that my car ran smoothly or didn’t smell like burning oil except for that time I changed the PCV. I have never seen any kind of smoke coming out of my exhaust again like that one experience.
Problems:
•Burning oil smell coming from my engine due to leaking oil coming out the "seams" of the engine
•Car is struggling when accelerating especially at lower gears
•I feel it every so often when I accelerate somewhere between 2nd and 3rd gear that the car jerks and makes this “chunk” type sound and feeling when it shifts gears.
Questions:What is wrong with my car? Are all these situations related? And what do I need to do to stop the oil leak and acceleration problem?
Chevrolet - Silverado :: 1994 - Battery Seems Low (dead) Every Few Days
I have a 1994 checy silverado 2500 with 3 year old battery, alternator, and starter. I left the car for a week and came back and the battery was dead and needed a jump start. Charged up and sat for 3 days and dead again. I check for lights on and nothing.
View 1 RepliesBMW :: 1990 - AT Cannot Leave 1st Gear Or All Forward Clutches
My car is 1990 BMW E34 M20B20 that uses 4HP22 transmission and here is the problem:
When I put it from P into R it makes a sound like a hitting and doesn't move but you can understand it is on load, because when I step on the gas, engine cannot outrun 2000 rpm (even at trying to rev).
When I shift into N, it starts to move forward and it's drivable but not an engaged drive, and while traveling or not, when I shift from N into D, it retrieves the engaged drive and goes normal.
I think it cannot leave 1st gear or all forward clutches. What the problem could be?
Volvo - S40 :: Check Engine Light On - Error Codes For Timing Belt And Temperature Sensor
2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
View 6 RepliesBmw - 735 :: 1999 - ABS Light Comes On / Steering Becomes Hard
1999 BMW 735 iL automatic ... ABS light comes on (plus two other lights) after 5 minutes drive in the morning, steering becomes hard (but not always) some other functions stop working e.g fuel gauge, KM counter, rev needle and speed indicator stop. What do I do? Change ABS controller or some other cheaper option is possible? Car is running fine. Breaking made noise a few times.
View 5 RepliesAcceleration - Nissan :: 1981 - Engine Started Looping After 2000 RPM
1981 Datsun 280ZX 5spd manual L28 IL6 SOC. maintenance history unknown. Today after a short drive and a bath the engine started looping after 2000 rpm. The car idles fine while sitting but as soon as you push the gas the engine revs to 2k and then decelerates then back up to 2k then back down.The car does this with no hesitation until you take you foot off the gas then idles normal again. Could this be a sensor issue? If so which one? The car didn't start the problem until i bathed the engine area.
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