I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
View 4 Replies2000 Chrysler 300M with 142K miles. Was a very reliable car until recently.
Problem began with boiling coolant in the reservoir tank. Then began to lose coolant at a high rate. I tried stop leak products and replaced the coolant frequently for a couple months. Some of it kind of worked, but the problem always returned. The car drives fine for about 10 highway miles then begins to steam out from under the hood on the passenger side. It gets about half way up the temp gauge, but does not really overheat. I usually stop when it steams out, let it cool, replace the antifreeze, then do it all over again. I've also tried a bunch of other things too, e.g., radiator flush. None of it worked.
The mechanic wants to replace the radiator. Says the system does not have pressure so there's no real way to determine if there are leaks in the engine. But he does know that the radiator is no good. I'm okay to replace radiator, but don't want to do it just to find out ten minutes later that I have a blown head gasket, which I would opt not to fix. I have read the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket, such as coolant in the oil, but there is none. My exhaust is white, but it's 5 degrees outside and it doesn't look whiter. I have seen some coolant on the ground at times.
I have a 2013 Forester with 39k miles, and last week I was 200 miles from home, put it in Drive and it didn't engage. After car was left running for a few minutes, and shifting between P, R, N, & D, it finally engaged. I was able to get it home and took to dealer the next day. They looked at the car, checked the computer logs, and told me nothing was wrong. Since then, it's happened 3 more times, and now I'm noticing it's not shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd gear (engine will rev and then it'll slip into gear).
To make matters worse, my wife couldn't get it out of Park two days ago. She had to use the shift lock release button, and could only start it when it was in Neutral. She then couldn't get it to back into Park and had to park it on a level surface with parking brake engaged. Heading back to dealer now, but would love to hear others' input.
'04 Honda Civic-1.7LFirst the car started overheating only it was sitting in idle. As soon as you would go or if you revved the engine the needle would immediately drop after a few seconds. Replaced the thermostat. It seemed fixed, but started doing it again, put in a new thermostat incase other one was faulty. Still having same problem.The system was pressure testing and everything was fine. Then had the system flushed and new thermostat put in. It worked for about 150 miles and started doing the same thing.Brought it in for the water pump, the old one was corroded and warped so it seemed like the problem.
After about 100 or so miles still overheating when idle.We had the radiator replaced, the old one was complete junk, thermostat replaced too. I drove it like normal in town for a day, the next day it started overheating, this time it was doing it while driving, got to about 3/4 up. Turned the car off for a bit, and it didn't do it anymore on the way home.Today I was driving and it was fine for 4 miles, I sat idling for 1 minute, after driving 1 more mile it started overheating, temp gauge got to halfway.
I parked it for a bit and started driving, there was no heat coming from the heater, I had it full blast, nothing but cold air. The car started overheating again, once again halfway. Parked for about 3 minutes and then turned it on, temp was fine and it was blowing full heat out, the car temp was fine the whole way home, no more overheating.
The next step we will take is to replace the head gasket and/or heater core. Is there anything else that this could be? Literally the same week the overheating started, the rear lights were having issues and one time there was no power to the windows. Then the door locks would stop and then work again intermittently. The door locks no longer work at all. Not sure if it is just a coincidence, maybe everything is breaking at once. But there has been no loss of coolant and the oil and coolant consistency have been normal too.
I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
View 7 Replies2010 Lexus Rx450h... Rattles in the morning, only when really cold. (Around freezing?). Somewhere in or near the passenger side door, or the air vent by that door. It gets quiet(er) after warmup. Car has been at the dealer for a week... They can't find it; they want to pack in additional insulation. That hardly sounds like a sound solution.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving down the highway, my Ford Windstar van just quit! The battery is new and the lights stayed on. About 10 minutes later the engine turned over again and I drove it to a Ford shop. They put the computer on it, but nothing showed up. What could cause a vehicle engine to just quit while going 40 MPH down the road?!
View 3 RepliesYesterday in MN when it was -17 while on the highway around 5 pm my 96 Audi A6 started accelerating by itself. I was able to get of the highway and to a parking lot where it idled in park at about 4000 rpm's before I turned it off and let it sit for several minutes. I started it twice the second time it did not rev up to 4000, it was just normal. My question is this a sign of something terrible or just the cold messing with my old car? Should I have something specifically checked out?
View 2 RepliesAfter driving through a downpour, my headlights wouldn't turn off. I pulled the fuse, and when I put it in again, the passenger side headlight wouldn't turn on- checked the bulb, it's ok, amateur mechanic from the hood tried to ground a wire, nothing. I read that the schematics for the headlight wiring are odd in this car. Looking for a solution my mechanic in the hood could try before going elsewhere. Saturn 2002 SL....
View 12 RepliesMy 98 cherokee sport(xj) 190k has always been reliable but now its hard to start. I must press on the gas pedal and rev it up so it doesn't die. Never has done this, after a few revs it seems find. Is my fuel pump bad.?
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