I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
View 3 Replies2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
View 12 RepliesThe ambient (outside) temperature sensor on my 04 jeep grand cherokee is now stuck in the open position (it reads -40 constantly) after having body work done to it. Could this be a fuse, loose wires, or is the senor broken? Also could this have been damaged by the body shop?
View 8 RepliesBought my DTS with 46,000 miles, one year ago. I have driven 31,000 miles since. Once in a while, maybe once a month, at 65 or 70 mph it will just hiccup once and keep going. Just one quick miss. About 6 or 8 times in a year it has just died going 30mph or pulling into a driveway or up to stop sign. It does not sputter or miss, simply just dies instantly. So far it has always started right back up. The only code it has ever shown, was mass air flow sensor twice. It looks ok and I did clean it.
View 1 RepliesI just bought an 07 Hyundai Entourage (Kia Sedona clone) a little over a month ago. We had our first storm last week and my wife tried to use the washer fluid on the rear and it didn't work (it was below freezing). I looked at it and the front didn't work either (no noise from pump motor either). So I found out it has a pump for the front and one for the rear but they are on the same fuse. Checked the fuse and it was blown.
I thought maybe it was due to the fluid in the car freezing (no anti freeze fluid probably). Put the new fuse in, tried the front for about 5 seconds and it worked. Tried the rear for 5, it worked. Tried the front again, nothing. Tried the rear again nothing. Pulled the fuse again accept it wasn't blown. Put a couple of different fuses in. Nothing. I did this while it was above freezing...? could both pumps have burnt up at the same time? Is there any other fusible link between the motor and switch?
My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
Why my car will not start every time it get really cold; also I have not started it in about 4 days.
View 2 RepliesI took my 2003 Toyota Matrix with around 148K miles to a local shop for the 150K work. This is the first time I have not taken it to the Toyota dealership because I wanted to use a local shop that works on Toyotas. I live in Asheville, NC. I spent over $800 for this service, rotating and alignment, plugs changed etc and they checked a engine light and told me I needed a new catalytic converter. I took the car in on November 2nd. On December 23rd I was driving on the interstate and heard a pop and a coughing noise. I was stranded on the side of the highway in Knoxville, TN. I got a tow to the a Toyota dealership where I learned that "the spark plug shot out like a rocket" through the header. I ended up getting a used motor for $4400. I have since spoken with other mechanics, all who have said that this is a problem with Fords. All have said the plug must not have been installed properly. They said it could have been a faulty plug but they don?t know how.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited w/ 33k miles on it...4.0 engine. Have had it a little over a year. Last Fall, it started having issues whenever we had a lot of rain. Would not crank at all. Replaced the battery and clutch switch, which seems to worked, but is now doing it again. I turn the key and all of the lights come on, but there is not even a click. If I coast it off and pop the clutch, it starts right up. Once it dries out, will start w/ the key without an issue. Have an appt w/ the dealer, but they cannot get to it until Thursday, but I have to drive to work until then.
View 4 Replies2001 Chevy Venture: Pins to 2nd fan in 4 pin connector burned and melting to connector. Fan seemed to work when wiggling connector. Bypassed connector and now does not work unless A/C is turned on Full Speed. Is connector important? What controls fans? Computer controlled? Seems to be larger gauge wire in one side than the other.
View 2 Replies