My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
View 7 RepliesWhen I drive the 1991 Stealth for an extended period - more than 50 miles, at least, the car intermittently presents a loud rotational banging sound from the passenger side front end. If I depress the clutch peddle and decelerate, it slows down/stops. It is not a continous noise, and it only comes up every so many months. I have taken it to mechanics numerous times, and there have been guesses/fixes to address the problem, but it is still ocurring. Other than this, the car is in great shape and runs great!
Here is what has been done to the car that is relevant:
New Rack and Pinion Steering,
New Tie Rod(s),
New Brake Pads, Transmission Rebuilt, valve re-work.
It does not happen continuously, so it does not seem like it would be a CV joint., When it first starts to come on it is noticed most when turning. But then it gets louder and just does it even when going straight. When the problem first started happening, the transmission had been done within a month or two prior, and I noticed one of the transmission bolts was missing (front center bottom). I was told at that time this was not the issue and since the place where the bolt goes in was stripped, nothing cold be done to replace the bolt, except to take out and replace the entire mount.
I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
View 4 Replies2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
View 6 RepliesI have a 01 Grand Prix GTP and there is a smell coming out of the vents when the heater is on. It smells like exhaust. What might be causing this?
View 3 RepliesI own a 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara, V6, about 104,000 miles. My mechanic recommended the annual oil change in December 2015. My vehicle started making a loud tapping noise July 2016, so I took it to a mechanic. My mechanic discovered my car had no engine oil and there's no evidence of a leak. I have to replenish the engine oil every three weeks. My mechanic recommends I replace the PVC Valve; I'm unsure if the issue is the PVC Valve or oil compatibility issue. Oh I must also mention (not sure if it's related) when driving or parked and my a/c is running, the a/c intermittently blows out hot air....I can hear the transition like another vent suddenly opens up.
View 19 RepliesI had a mechanic do a diagnostic on the battery, alternator, etc. on Monday and he couldn't find a thing wrong. I drove it home without a worry. Last nite, it wouldn't start. It reminded me of what used to be called (or still is called?) "flooded." My '95 Saturn SL2 cranked but never kicked in and/or turned over to start. This morning, however, it turned over right away, albeit very sluggishly. What's wrong? Bad gasoline?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Mazda Protege5. It was showing signs of the CV joints going out (popping noises) so I had them replaced. Now there is still popping noises but they are different. They are less frequent. Instead of a pop, pop, pop... when turning it will pop,...........pop,........pop.... and it will only due this when it is hot outside. It also makes the noises when going over bumps some of the time. I took it back into the mechanic and had him look over everything again and he said that all the tie rods and cv joints and everything looked great. He thought it might be a wearing strut or an over tightened strut.
View 1 Repliescar makes a noise like a jangling bracelet when I press accelerator. Doesn't make noise while idling.
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