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Subaru - Tires - Outback - Exhaustsystems :: 2006 Whirring Sound Over 15 Mph
2006 Subaru Outback. It has around 121000. I bought it at 113,000 last October since my previous 1998 Subaru made it to 240,000. So far I've taken it in for all new wiring and a tune up. And I was assured by the car salesman that the timing belt had been changed prior to my purchase. Anyway, since August I've had a rattly/whirring sound that I am experiencing over 15 mph. It seems to be coming from the back of my vehicle. It sounded like I had a hole in the muffler because it was reminiscent of when I lost my muffler on the highway with my 1998 subaru a few years ago, but this sound is definitely not as loud. The sound does increase in volume at high speeds on the highway but has so far not been as loud as my previous experience. (and the muffler is still there when i look under the car)
When I took my car in to get the oil changed a couple months ago, I asked the mechanic to check and see if he saw anything while under there. They told me it was my heat shield.
Recently the noise started being a little bit louder on the highway so I thought maybe it was my tires since they were very due to be replaced. I bought new tires within the last few weeks and there has been no change with the whirring sound on the highway. Yesterday, I noticed a light thunking sound that started happening between the speeds 10-40mph. It seems to be in the front of my car and occurring with the rotation of my wheels. There are no sounds when Idle.
Gti - Volkswagen - Valves :: 1999 - Emissions Part Location?
Exactly where to look to locate my evaporative purge control valve on my 1999 VW GTI AEG 2.0 non turbo engine?
View 11 RepliesEngines - Gmc - 1500 :: Heater Motor Only Runs On High Speed
Do I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
View 4 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 1993 - Continues To Hydrolock - Gas In Oil
Have been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
Honda - Acura :: 2000 TL All Of A Sudden Stopped Starting - P1607 OBDII Code
I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
View 8 RepliesToyota - Tacoma :: 1989 - Won't Start Up And Intermittently Dies - CEL Comes On
I have driven small Toyota 4X4 pickups since 1980 including an '89 for the past 25 years and > 200,000 miles. One day a couple of months ago it would crank but would not start although battery and starter seem fine. I did some basic testing eventually measuring the ignition coil resistance (within published range) and inspecting the distributor cap (looked fine). Upon reassembly, it started right up and ran fine for a few weeks. I hadn't really done anything beside cleaning the rotor and cap contacts, moving around the wiring while in the process.
A few weeks ago I was driving in traffic just a few miles from home and it momentarily lost power twice within a mile. Check engine light was noted the second time. I was busy watching the cars ahead of me the first time. Both times it resumed running on it's own and I continued on. A couple of weeks later it died three times within a few miles from home.
The first two times I was able to pull off out of traffic. Several minutes later, I was able to restart the engine. The third time I was stuck in a turn lane at an intersection, police arrived right away and the vehicle was towed to the dealer where I had purchased it only two miles away. They have been unable to reproduce the problem but believe they have eliminated the fuel filter and fuel pump as the cause. They have driven the vehicle several miles and left it running for an hour and a half with no problems noted. No diagnostic codes were recovered.
They now want me to retrieve the undiagnosed, unrepaired vehicle. We know it will fail again, probably under the worst possible circumstances. In heavy traffic, a multi-vehicle crash with associated injuries or deaths could result. It's like if the vehicle itself doesn't tell them what to do, they don't know how to approach such a problem on their own any more. I'm not in a position to pour unlimited funds into a vehicle I have recently replaced (with a 2014 Tacoma). There must be a logical approach beyond checking the fuel filter and pump but they seem clueless. I can't safely drive the vehicle and won't offer it for sale until the problem is identified and corrected.
Coolant - Volkswagen - Leaks - Tiguan :: 2009 - Puddle Under The Wheel
I took my 2009 VW Tiguan (which I purchased last week used from the VW dealership in Barrie Ontario) out for a drive earlier today. When I left, the ground under where it was parked was clean and dry. I came back after about an hour of driving and parked it. Then, this evening, after it sit for about 6 hours, I went out to put something in the car and noticed a puddle under the wheel. It hadn't rained and I could see/smell that the puddle was red engine coolant.
I checked the engine coolant and it was low. It's like it sprang a leak all of a sudden while it was sitting there - like someone cut a hose or something. I did a look over the engine with a flashlight and couldn't see any slashed hoses or anything. Tomorrow I'm going to call the dealership and see what they say. I'll update here with what I learn.
Ford - Zx2 :: Idles High (about 1000 RPM) And Rumbles Pretty Roughly
I own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
Ford - F150 :: 2007 - Vibrating Between 43 And 54 MPH
I have a 2007 F150 STX 2 wheel drive that vibrates between 43 and 54 MPH only. Very consistent and it doesn't happen every time, but I'd say above 90 percent of the time. Now I'm getting the run around with mechanics about what the problem is. I can see the bed of my truck vibrating and I can hear it, sounds like I'm driving over rumble strips.
I had the transmission, transmission cooler, a coil pack, intake manifold, and throttle body replaced by the Ford house in January of last year. The shaking began a few months after the replacement. I had the tires rotated. No change. I had the tires replaced, no change. A few months ago the front left wheel bearings and both lower ball joints were replaced. No change. It has not gotten any worse or better, and every mechanic I have talked to has claimed something different but it's all theory because they can't figure out what it is, they just want to start replacing things without being sure.
I've heard:
-Center driveshaft carrier bearing
-Torque converter shudder
-Bad suspension
Turning off overdrive makes no difference.
Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1993 Won't Start / No Spark To Injectors
I have a jeep grand cherokee 1993 that wont start. I have no spark to injectors. I have change the coil, pcm, rotor, cap, pick up coil, starter, alternator, fly wheel sensor, relayes, wires, fuel pump. I don't know what else to do i need to get it running so I can get rid of it.
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