In January, I had the alternator replaced on my 2004 Focus after it died in the middle of the street. It's been fine since then, but yesterday I was driving it and it suddenly seemed to lose power - the dashboard battery light came on, there was the dinging noise that indicates that a seatbelt is unbuckled or the headlights have been left on when you open the door, and the fuel needle dropped to empty (even though the tank was 3/4 full.) Then everything kicked back on. Then it happened again. This cycle repeated three or four times. I parked the car, restarted it, and after that it was okay. BUT - I have two long trips coming up, to remote areas of the Rockies, and I want to make sure it's okay before setting off on these journeys.
It seemed like the alternator was bad, or maybe there was a loose connection, but I took it to the mechanic and he couldn't detect anything wrong. The alternator is under warranty, so he's suggesting that I just replace it, but also wants to run "other tests" to see what's going on.
Of possible relevance: it's been pretty cold out here for the past week (-5 F), I don't drive the car that much, and it was the first time I'd started it in several days. The heat and radio were both on when I started it. I left it running in neutral while I scraped off the windows, which I usually don't do. Generally I scrape off the windows first, then get in, start, and just drive. Sometimes it's sluggish in the cold when I do this, but usually it's fine.
Is it possible that this was just the cold? I'm wary of getting into a situation where the mechanic starts finding a bunch of stuff wrong with it that isn't actually wrong.
I took my MINI Cooper (not S!) in last week for a routine oil change. While they were in there, they found that the coolant overflow tank was empty, so they check the coolant take and found that it was leaking from the seals that seal the reservoir where the supercharger would be if my car was an S. So I had them go ahead and replace the seals, which required 6 hours of work because to get to the seals they had to take apart half of the engine, or so I am told. I'm still not entirely sure where this seals are...
This weekend my boyfriend noticed some sort of liquid pooling on the driveway, and upon further inspection my MINI has leaked LOTS of oil. I checked the oil level and it was about a centimeter from the bottom of the dipstick on Saturday, and by Sunday there was only a drop on the end. I called the towing company and had them tow the car back to the shop where the coolant work was done.
My questions are these: What could cause an oil leak of this size? Could they have hit something while repairing the seals that would have caused this? Should I argue with them if they say it is something unrelated? Am I being taken for a ride?
I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
View 8 RepliesTonight I returned home after almost two hours in traffic only to find out that I needed to run one more errand before enjoying my evening. Within ten minutes I was back in my 2009 Scion xD, but after unlocking it remotely with the button on my key, sitting in the car and turning the key, nothing happened. I mean, nothing. No dome light, no familiar car starting noises, no dash lights... I tried again, and again, but as they say, insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.
I'm looking for some insight into what might have caused my little car to so suddenly become so dull and unresponsive. After all, I just spent some time in it, and it was still warm. The remote unlock seems to have been the last electrical thing it would do, and the same button and even the rocker switch on the door wouldn't lock or unlock the car after that. The headlights didn't work, either and a quick check under the hood found nothing obviously wrong with the battery. I also confirmed that I didn't leave the headlights or dome light on, even for those ten minutes.
The battery is only a few months old and the catalytic converter is only a few months older than that - I was having problems with the car losing charge after only a few minutes without the engine on, so the dealership replaced the catalytic converter for free under the extended warranty, but that didn't seem to solve the problem, so I replaced the battery (not free), and while I haven't given it a "test" to see if I could get it to die (now that it's winter and less convenient to do so), it seemed to be doing better (I can get through a fill at the gas station with my radio on without needing a jump!).
This car was also repaired a month ago after a rear-end collision on the highway by a shop I consider to be excellent, and anyway I wouldn't expect rear-end damage to matter, but there it is for full disclosure. This happened after the battery was replaced.
Also, this is winter in Boston. We just received our third foot of snow on the ground a few days ago and it is 14F right now. I drove all over the place, making six successful trips in the car today.
I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
View 1 RepliesMy exhaust system was replaced on my 2005 Corolla in August. After driving it for just a few days, there was a shaking when the car idled. The mechanic replaced two engine mounts and the idle was much worse! He said it was ok to drive, so I started on my planned trip across the country. In Denver I took it to a mechanic at the Toyota dealer and they adjusted the throttle. It was better for a while, maybe a week and 1,000 miles. Now it is worse than ever! Having gotten two totally different causes from mechanics, I am not sure what to do next.
Also just before the exhaust sytem went, I had the 60,000 mile service done and had the car totally checked out by both Toyota, and an independent mechanic who specilizes in Japanese cars. After a car wash in California, the maintence required light came on.
What is going on?
My Saturn Aura XR shakes when i get up to about 60 - 65 mph. even worse when i go faster. any suggestions on what to do. i am going to get the alingment checked. but i think it is something else.
View 12 Replies98 acura 1.6 ... (automatic transmission) i was at a stop sign in the rain and accelerated only to hear a clunking noise and it sounds like its spinning around and clunking and it hits something on its way around every time. clunk clunk clunk clunk. when i put it back in park i can feel what ever is spinning stop in the gear shift stick.
View 1 RepliesI want to get rid of the ringing alert when driving - actually I want it to go away for ever. I live on an island and this old truck has an "island only" registration and will never have to pass inspection again.
View 1 Replies94 ford ranger, 4.0L OHC, 4x4 5 speed manual 146,000 ....
So the other day I was driving home and i noticed my battery light was coming on each time i stopped at a red light. Soon after it remained on regardless and the voltage gauge started to drop till it hovered right at the "N" in normal but thinking if my alternator had gone i was best to keep driving rather than having to stop and restart the car again. I shut the radio off and made it home. The next day i grabbed my haynes manual and started going through all the tests of the charging system and everything checked out.
The battery had a full 12.8v at rest and when idling showed 14.3, whats going on? The car didn't have a problem starting the next day and the battery, even now another day later, has a solid 12.8 on it so I don't suspect a drain anywhere. The only thing that i notice is when i tested the resistance on the voltage regulator the manual calls for at least 2.4ohms and mine read 4.0ohms, is that normal? Could it just be that my actual gauge is bad and i am getting a false reading? My only other thought here is maybe the drive belt is a little loose and its slipping when the alternator is under load, but I don't hear a squeal and when i measure the deflection between the alternator and powers steering pump i get a little less than a 1/2".