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Toyota - Venza :: A/C Malfunction - Won't Work Intermittently
Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
Plymouth - Acclaim :: Clunk / Rattle Noise Coming From One Wheel - Catastrophic Bearing Failure
My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
Stalling - Stalls :: 1974 F100 Starts To Chug After 15 Minutes
1974 F100 starts to chug after 15 minutes driving although infrequently when driving at a slower pace. Would happen around the 70mph speed and stop chugs when slowed to 65mph.
Only have experienced this after it's been warmed up, in the past 3 sessions of driving it will do this on freeway when driving 70mph, slow down to 65mph and no issue. Although, it seemed to have chugged once this morning when driving 45mph up a hill when during time engine was partially warm.
Ford - Explorer - Transmissions :: 1992 - Engine Won't Turn Over?
1992 Fod Explorer XLT: When I attempt to turn over the engine, the flywheel spins, but the engine doesn't. This is a very gently driven vehicle. I drove home hone day, backed into the driveway and unloaded the groceries. The next morning, when I tried to start it, the engine will not turn over. I dropped the starter and tested it--all good. While I had the starter off, I found I could spin the flywheel freely--appears to not be attached to the engine. It's tight with no play whatsoever. Last year I had a new flywheel installed--something I would do myself, but decided I'm at the age, I'm just not up for it. It's been running great for 18 months with no problems. There was never a noise. This just happened one morning. I thought the crank may be broken, but that seems unlikely since it was driving great until the next morning.
View 13 RepliesStruts - Corolla :: 2008 - Wandering At Highway Speeds At 60 Mph And Above
My wife and I have owned our '08 Corolla since brand new. It is up to 162,000 miles now, and has developed a fairly serious handling issue. The car wanders at highway speeds (60mph+). This generally only occurs with some wind, on a long straight without wind you can take your hands off the wheel and it goes straight without issues. With wind, either natural or from nearby vehicles, it wanders around even if you're in a long sweeping turn. It doesn't weave totally out of a lane, but it does feel very unstable. On dry roads it's mostly a nuisance, requiring two hands and being tiring. If it's raining, however, the car feels like it's trying to hydroplane constantly, although I don't think it's actually hydroplaning that's just the sensation.
It started probably 20,000 miles ago and has gotten dramatically worse in the last ~5,000. I took it to a shop and asked them to go through the suspension and they gave it a clean bill of health. After that I took it in for tires and an alignment (needed tires anyway) and told the tire shop what I was experiencing. They put 4 new tires on, plus an alignment, and said they didn't find anything wrong with it either. As an aside it's running the stock steel wheels still.
I drive 50 miles each way to work, mostly highway, so this is getting to be a serious problem. It's to the point that I drive my truck when it's going to be raining, and white-knuckle it in the corolla when it's dry out. I've read similar accounts, and checked everything that other people have found to cause similar issues, and so have two shops. Tierod ends and control arm bushings are good. The rack seems good (no play at all in the steering wheel) plus I've driven plenty of vehicles with slop in the steering and they didn't feel like this and only tended to wander when going straight because a sweeping turn takes the play out of the steering. The struts are original all around, but the car easily passes the "bounce test". Is there a better way to check them?
Mazda - Mazdaspeed6 :: 2002 - Convertible Rooftop Latch?
While I was putting the top up on my 2002 Miata today, someone failed to pull the sun visor on the passenger side out of the way before snapping down the rooftop latch. Because I was sitting inside on the driver's side, I saw what was happening and stopped them from further forcing the latch. However, I fear they managed to slightly spring the latch because it doesn't snap down as snug as it used to. They didn't push hard enough to leave even the slightest mark or imprint on the visor but, just the same, the latch isn't right anymore. Is there a way for me to make some sort adjustment to the latch, or will I have to take the car in for repair. I'm now worried about a leak between the windshield seal and the roof, although the fit looks and feels snug from the outside.
View 4 RepliesFord - Repair - Batteries - Focus :: 2007 - Airbag Light Keep Going On And Off
I had the clock spring replaced on my 2007 Ford Focus replaced at the dealership exactly 1 month ago because the airbag light kept going on and off. I paid about $200 for that repair. Yesterday when I was driving home (after being on the highway for about 20 miles) everything on the dash went dead except for the ABS light. When I tried to turn the radio back on, it said "Low Battery." I was able to make it to the dealership, but as soon as I turned off the engine, it was completely dead. When I turned the key, a couple of lights came on but it wouldn't even turn over. Is is possible that the mechanic didn't hook the battery up correctly after replacing the clock spring? Should I expect the dealership to pick up the cost for whatever needs replacing now? Or is this just really bad luck?
View 5 RepliesSubaru - Pump - Heating - Airconditioning - Loyale :: 1992 - A/C Switches (vacuum) Doesn't Work
1992 Subaru loyale 4WD, was sitting for about 2 weeks straight without use. . . I just changed the oil and spark plugs, and now the buttons for the 4wd and air conditioning/heater do not work. I heard that these are vacuum operated. Is this a quick fix? Will it lead to other problems? Brakes??
View 1 RepliesFord - Explorer :: Turn Signal On Driver Side Not Working
My turn signal on the driver’s side isn’t working. It clicks quickly like when the bulb is out. The rear one on that side still works, but blinks quickly…which is normal when the front one isn’t working. It didn’t just stop working all at once. Over the course of the last year or more, it has gradually gone out--it would work for a few days and not for a while. A few months ago, it worked about half the time. Now it won’t ever work and I’m due for an inspection. Here is what I’ve determined so far:
It isn’t the bulb…I’ve tried a new bulb.
It isn’t the socket. I took the socket in my hand in the picture and switched it with the passenger side and the driver side still didn’t work and the passenger still did worked.
The plug that the socket goes into on the picture…I cleaned it good and used a little lubricant on it, but that didn’t work either. If that plug is bad, the local parts stores don’t carry it and can’t get it, so I'll have to go to the Ford House.
Dodge - Ram :: 1999 - Suddenly The Engine Stopped Running?
I have the 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. The other day I was traveling on the freeway, and suddenly the engine stopped running, radio, ignition, power steering, etc. and then as the car was slowing down everything started working, engine came back on and everything is fine. Then a few days afterward, I took the truck around the corner to the store, started the truck up then cam e out of the parking and this time everything shut down for good. The lights work, the emergency flashers work, but when you you turn the ignition, no lights come on, no buzzer, no engine turning over, no nothing...?
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