I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
View 4 RepliesEngine light came on two weeks ago. Had the code read at Advance Auto Parts. Code = P0420. The only performance issue was that it stalled when I started it the other day for the first time since I bought it last fall. Are there any other clues to tell what it could mean (catalytic converter vs. 02 sensor vs. anything else)? Is it really worth trying some kind of catalytic converter cleaner product?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1993 Toyota Pickup and on Sunday, driving home from camping, I noticed my fourth gear had a really high pitched chirping sound. I figured it was bc I was accelerating uphill, and thought nothing of it.
Monday night, I was driving down the street and it started again. In fourth gear. It literally sounded like crickets in my engine...
It's only in fourth gear, and it's only in mid fourth - like if I slow it down (like I'm about to shift into third) or speed up (like I should shift into fifth), it fades out.
My brother in law the mechanic said I should try getting my transmission serviced, which I did, the next morning. It still makes the chirping sound.
It doesn't make the sound when I have the clutch in, even a tiny little bit, but the second my foot it not resting on the pedal, it starts.
I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
View 5 RepliesMy neighbor and I each have a Ford F250 PowerStroke with automatic transmission, and we had a strange thing happen with his the other day. He had a 3500 lb trailer loaded with bark attached and I was backing it up his driveway. The driveway is pretty long (300-500 feet), curvey with a dog-leg, and up-grade, and the trailer has electric brakes that weren't connected. It all seemed OK at first, but then it gradually started to resist the attempts to continue backing. The further I backed, the more throttle I had to apply. I had to shift once to go forward to handle the dog-leg and there was no resistance going forward (actually, I just costed forward). After getting lined up after the dog-leg, the resistance to backward motion continued to increase. After getting the trailer positioned where he wanted it, we noticed that the transmission had been spraying ATF during the last part of the backing.
The next morning he drove the truck without any signs of trouble, no unusual resistance and no spraying of ATF.
1). What might have been happening that caused the increased resistance and the spraying?
2). What corrective action could I have taken when I noticed the increased resistance?
3). Might his tranny have suffered damage?
4). Is this something that could happen on my truck (it has SB 99-3-5 installed).
My car is making a popping sound during acceleration. I just recently found that the radiator fan is not coming on and I am about to replace the coolant tempo sensor. Could this unit effect engine performance.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
Two mechanics have told me that I need the valve cover gasket in my car replaced. I have all of the classic signs of needing one--the smoke coming from under the hood, the drops of oil on the pavement after the car is parked for a few minutes, etc. The problem is that I won't have the money until around Memorial Day. I drive about 300 miles a week. How desperate a repair is this, and what are the signs that I need to have it fixed immediately?
View 5 RepliesSo, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)