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Saab - 9000 :: 1997 - Loss Of Oil - Head Gasket Is Leaking?

I have a 1997 Saab 9000 CSE Turbo. It has been a great car overall. Last summer, our water pump died while cruising on the highway, leading to a major overheat, leading to warped head. We decided to roll the dice on a rebuild, which was done by a reputable import specialty shop that has worked on many Saab 9000s. Since we got the car back 5000 miles ago, we have lost a few miles per gallon, and we hear a rough noise in the engine (particularly when it's cold). In the last few thousand miles, we lost a lot of coolant, apparently because the new water pump is faulty (the shop looked at it and agreed to replace under warranty). In the last 1000 miles (but no evidence of it previously), we have begun losing oil like crazy and occasionally (but not most of the time) smelling burning oil (the heater is on, moving air around). We are now adding about a quart per 200 miles. When we inspect the block, there is some small evidence of oil leakage, but not a lot, and there are never drips on the driveway.

Where is all that oil going? I showed it to the shop, we put it on the lift, and there is no spray on the underside, leaking oil pan, etc. I suspect the new head gasket is leaking, but there is little enough residue on the block that it's hard to be certain. What other explanations are there, and is it fair for me to blame the repair shop and insist that they redo the head gasket? The shop is a 6hr drive from my house, so I can't just drop by to discuss it with them.

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Toyota - Sienna :: 2003 - Radio Stopped Working

I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna. The radio has stopped working. All other electrical parts of the car appear to be in fine working order. I found the Radio-No.2 fuse (7.5A) beneath the dash and replaced it with the working 7.5A (working) turning signal with no luck. (The radio fuse DID work when placed in the turning signal fuse slot). So it cannot be this fuse.

Is there a Radio-No.1 fuse? Unfortunately, this car did not come with a owners manual. If so where would I find it?Or could this be a different problem? What else should I look for.

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Buick - Lacrosse :: 2010 - Keyless Won't Start?

For the 3rd time, my stepmom's car is in the shop because it won't start. They said it needed to be reprogrammed, but that didn't work. They seem clueless; if she ever gets the car back, she'll be afraid to drive it.

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Acceleration - Repair :: Ford Expedition Slow To Accelerate / Strong Vibrations And Gas Smell

My 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.

The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).

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Electrical-wiring - Hyundai - Fluids - Entourage :: 2007 - Washer Fluid Not Working

I just bought an 07 Hyundai Entourage (Kia Sedona clone) a little over a month ago. We had our first storm last week and my wife tried to use the washer fluid on the rear and it didn't work (it was below freezing). I looked at it and the front didn't work either (no noise from pump motor either). So I found out it has a pump for the front and one for the rear but they are on the same fuse. Checked the fuse and it was blown.

I thought maybe it was due to the fluid in the car freezing (no anti freeze fluid probably). Put the new fuse in, tried the front for about 5 seconds and it worked. Tried the rear for 5, it worked. Tried the front again, nothing. Tried the rear again nothing. Pulled the fuse again accept it wasn't blown. Put a couple of different fuses in. Nothing. I did this while it was above freezing...? could both pumps have burnt up at the same time? Is there any other fusible link between the motor and switch?

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Kia - Rio :: Metallic Sort Of Coughing Sound

I have a 2007 Kia Rio LS. I can't get it to do this ALL time time, but when I accelerate hard (passing, getting off the line quickly) I hear a metallic sort of coughing sound from my car. It seems to happen around 30-40 MPH, but not the same speed each time. I think I may have heard that sound once while it was idling.

I have done all the scheduled maintenance (I'm behind a bit for the 70,000) that my mechanic has recommended, and I keep up OK with my oil changes. We've skipped doing the timing belt thing, because it's a tear apart job- we're going to wait until 'other things' need doing and get it all in one fell swoop. This is my road trip car. I'm worried my transmission is slipping, or my timing belt is prepping to do something horrible while I'm on the road. Probably in the middle of nowhere.....

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Miata :: 1990 Won't Start When Hot / Engine Keeps Turning Over But Doesn't Catch

So, as the title says, my Miata won't start when it's hot. The engine keeps turning over but doesn't catch, and I have to let it cool down for about 20 minutes before it will turn on again. When it does turn back on, it blows a ton of white smoke out the back and I can smell gas for about 5 min afterwards. I have replaced the spark plugs and the wiring for them, and the problem is still there.

Also, I can bump start the car with little to no difficulty. It runs ragged for a few minutes then it runs great. So, what's up.

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Lexus - ES300 :: 1995 - Intermittent Starting When Car Sits For Extended Periods

I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?

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Pontiac :: 1966 - Lights Malfunction / Blinkers Don't Blink

the blinkers keep working and not working now they aren't of course.. but the left one only worked then something happened and the left only stayed on (not blinking) when the head lights were on. then it switched now they don't turn on at all. the fuses are good the relay is good all the wires are good I got new bulbs in as well and pointers. it's a Pontiac starchief 1966 and the flasher is good

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Sebring - Chrysler - Engines :: 2005 - Repeatedly Chugs / Recover While Driving

Check engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.

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