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Jaguar - S-type :: RPM Needle Went To Right?
What would cause my RPM needle to go all the way to the right (red zone) with no change in the engine. It most often happens the first few minutes of driving, but can happen at any time. The engine does not rev up at all. I have taken it in but they could find nothing that would cause this to happen.
View 1 RepliesSuzuki - Aerio :: 2003 - How To Turn On / Off AWD
I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
View 1 RepliesMitsubishi - Outlandersport :: AC Will Go From Ice Cold To Blowing Hot Air When Car Starts To Overheat
Ok so I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport AWD. It has started to over heat only when stopped at a stop light and only when the A/C is on. It will red line and as soon as I start to drive the gauge will drop back to normal. Then as soon as I stop again it will red line. But when I turn the A/C off it will fall back down to 3/4 over heat and drop immediately as I start driving. I notice that the A/C will go from ice cold to blowing hot air when it starts to over heat. I took it to the shop and they did a pressure test on the cooling system and it didn't do it again and the shop said that they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. It didn't do it for about 2 weeks and just now it started back again!!!!!!
View 4 RepliesChevrolet - S-10 :: 2000 2.2 Liter Engine Running Poorly At All RPMs For Short Duration
I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
Mercury - Cougar - Transmissions :: 1999 - Hard To Shift / Engine Codes
i have a 1999 mercury cougar and for almost a year when I drive it on the highway then get off and go to drive again it gives me a hard shift and will continue doing so, but if i turn the car off then back on it doesn't do it, very weird, but i got the codes and not sure what my next step would be to fixing it p1744- TCC system perform p1519 - IMRC stuck closed again this only happened when i drive the car for about 10-15 min on the highway then get off...
View 4 RepliesLincoln - Continental :: 2000 - Horrible Grinding / Rubbing Noise As Soon As The Engine Started
I own a 2000 Lincoln Continental and the other day it started making a horrible grinding/rubbing noise as soon as the engine started. I took it to my mechanic (been going to him for 6 years) and he said it was the Air Conditioner Compressor (specifically the clutch) was causing the noise and needed to be replaced.
If I remember correctly (I do not have any kind of documentation in front of me), the AC unit is at the bottom of the engine... Which could cause some issues. My question is, how easy/difficult is this to fix myself?
Ford - Focus - Alternators :: 2002 - Instruments Go Flatline And Then Car Dies
Yesterday my 2002 Ford Focus SE Zetec wagon (140k) died at a stoplight. Before that, the radio would turn off and on like it was possessed. The last five miles before it conked out, the fuel gauge and speedometer dropped to zero (ie same as with key-out). Waited two hours and was able to drive it two blocks home but the same symptoms w/instruments occurred. Battery measured 12.0v @ home. The alternator is the first suspect but what else should get replaced? Any guesses as for cost? DIY or take it to a shop?
View 17 RepliesCadillac - Brougham :: Driver Door Lock Mechanism Replacement
My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
View 2 RepliesHonda - Odyssey :: Steering Wheel Jiggles At Low Speed
When driving straight at slow speed (10-25 miles/hour) on smooth roads, the steering wheel jiggles left and right visibly (probably 1/16-1/8 inch each way). It goes away when turning and seems less at higher speed. This is a 2004 Honda Odyssey on original Michelin Symmetry tires with about 62k miles. Tires have 2/32-4/32 tread wear left, no manufacturer's worn markers yet or any visible damages or deformation. The vehicle has had regular maintenance at dealers, most recently 60k service done in December 2010. Trying to determine if this requires immediate attention and half a day at the dealer or a tire shop...
View 7 RepliesHonda - Fit :: Engine Is Humming At Around 3800 - 3900 RPM In 5th Gear
I just started a daily commute of 85 miles each way and I am wondering if it is as bad for my car as it is on my mind. My question...
My car is a Honda Fit with a small 1.5L engine. I usually cruise at a constant speed of 78-79mph for about 80 miles of the commute each way. The Fit has a 5-speed and in 5th gear the engine is humming at around 3,800-3,900 RPM. The question is, as I put around 1k on my car a week, is it bad for my engine to run it this way? I've heard highways miles are better as far as brakes, starters, so on but I am wondering if I am just not driving a car suitable for my commute.
Would it be beneficial to ditch the small 1.5L engine for a bigger V6? Or, is it perfectly fine to drive at a constant interstate speed with RPMs near 4,000 RPM. What problems could this potentially cause? Any recommended maintenance tips for this type of wear and tear?