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Stalling - Overheating - Honda - Civichybrid :: 2005 - Stall In Summer Only After Driving For A While
I have a Honda Civic Hybrid 2005 that I drive fairly regularly. I keep up with all the maintenance never had a problem... That is until last year. In the heat wave of Northeast 2012, the car started stalling after long drives. It only happened in mid to late august when temperatures started reaching the 90's. In the fall and winter the problem went away. I took it to the dealer in around October and they could not reproduce at first then later came back to tell me that it was the IACV valve. It promptly went away for the entirety of the winter and has now returned in june. As far as I can tell it only happens in the heat when you are idle after driving. It appears that the RPM's go to low (400<) and the thing stalls... How did you fix it? Can I do it myself? Where the hell is this IACV maybe I can clean it out or something?
View 2 RepliesHyundai - Elantra :: 2001 - Gas Cut When Accelerating Sometimes, Very Often Lately
My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
View 1 RepliesToyota - Corolla - Transmissions :: 2011 - Tachometer Will Start Jumping At Constant Speed
I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
View 19 RepliesElectrical-wiring - Honda - Accord :: DRL Light On Dashboard Come On For Few Seconds And Then Go Off
I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
View 1 RepliesStart - Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - O/D Off Light Flashing
Was driving into town today in my 96 Ford Explorer XLT v6 4wd, when I noticed my O/D off light flashing. I thought to myself, "Another problem I have to bash at with a wrench to get going again." I figured that meant I'd be stuck with gear 1 and would burn some extra gas on the ride home, but after parking and running an errand, woe behold me but my car won't start! The starter turns, but no other noises come out of my now very-large paperweight. I've tried shifting into neutral, moving the car to get the gearbox turning, starting the car in neutral and park, yet the stubborn car remains dead. Am I drawing a connection between the light and the failure to start where one need not exist?
View 4 RepliesStarting - Taurus :: 2001 SEL Won't Start Until It Sits For A While
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SEL that runs perfectly fine — most of the time. About once every month or so, I'll be driving around, running errands or whatever, and I'll get into the car and it won't start. It wants to turn over but sputters like it's just getting little bursts of fuel. No warning lights or check engine light come on, I've tried jump starting, resetting the emergency fuel shutoff, swapping relays, it's been to the shop multiple times — they just end up cleaning the fuel filter — I've tried everything I can think of. The kicker is, if I let the car sit for an hour or two, it will start right back up like nothing ever happened.
View 3 RepliesMini - Cooper :: 2004 - Clutch Gone Bad
The clutch went out and the repair people tell me to replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and other related components to the tune.
View 12 RepliesCivic - Struts :: Constant Spring-squeaky Sound After Trip To Mechanic
Took a recently purchased 2004 Civic EX to a mechanic to have it diagnosed. The diagnosis (separate discussion) was such that I decided to get a second opinion. On driving away, I noticed a constant spring-squeaky sound that had not been there before, so I took the car back. The mechanic explained that the front struts were bad (not part of their original diagnosis) and therefore, when they put the car up on the frame lift, air entered the struts hydraulic whatevers and that was causing the squeak. Several weeks ago, I had had the oversize wheels and tires that came with the car replaced - why wouldn't the problem have surfaced then, or in the 1000 miles I'd driven since? Btw, the tire place that had changed the tires and wheels had said nothing about struts needing replacing.
View 6 RepliesCivic - Honda :: 2001 - Won't Start And Instrument Needles Ticking
My Honda Civic (automatic transmission) is not starting. When turning the ignition, nothing happens. After turning the key off, all the instrument needles are ticking back and forth. It was a cold night last night. The battery is fairly new.
View 1 RepliesPlymouth - Neon - Airconditioning :: 1995 - Running Very High Idle?
I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.