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Subaru - Impreza :: 2005 Stalls After Clearing Codes P2096 And P0506
The check Engine light on my 2005 Subaru Impreza is on and the codes that I have seen are P2096 and P0506. After my mechanic clears the code, I drive off, unknowingly that soon after my car would stall due to (which I later found out from Subaru) the computer having to re-learn to idle after clearing the code. My local Subaru dealer said I need to let the car idle in neutral for about 20 minutes, which I thought was an absurd answer, especially coming from Subaru who knew about the issue. My mechanic said they have seen it with other car makes (Honda or Toyota). I consider this to be a huge safety concern and the "idling" solution is unacceptable.
View 9 RepliesToyota - Transmissions - Landcruiser :: Thud Noise (sometimes) When Went From Stop To Go
I drove my 2001 land cruiser into the shop after a 3 hour drive - it was making a thud noise (sometimes) when I went from stop to go. Felt like transmission. They called and said they put it on the lift and heard a thud from the transfer case, put it down, and now it cannot go in forward or reverse, just grinds. I said - I drove it in - they replied it must have just gone out when they had it.
View 1 RepliesVolvo - Abs - Brakes - S70 :: ABS Keeps Going Out
I have a 99 S70 and the ABS kicks in at in appropriate times, and stays stuck on (i.e. the pedal vibrates every time I touch the pedal and I can hear a loud buzzing sound even if I am not applying the brakes). After a while, the noise stops, but the ABS and TRACS lights come on. The first time this happened my mechanic replaced the ABS module and the problem went away for a while. The problem has resurfaced and each time "fixes" the problem for free, but it keeps happening. A) What is the root of the problem? B) Can I fix this myself every time it happens in the future?
View 1 RepliesDeville :: 98 Cadillac Won't Start - Check Engine Light Came On
Recently my check engine light came on on my 98 Cadillac Deville. I went to Autozone and got a free engine diagnostic and was given a printout of a bunch of stuff I did not understand, the technician told me it was just an issue with the light, and it could be fixed with unhooking the black end of my battery for 10m. Just a little bit ago, i popped the hood, and touched the black end of the battery to see how i could unplug it. When i touched it I heard a click and now there is no power to my car. Every time i jiggle the negative end I hear a click from the right side of the engine and nothing happens. I did not even unhook the battery.
View 1 RepliesChrysler - Cirrus :: 1997 Will Randomly And Unpredictably Go Into Limp Mode
1997 6 cylinder Chrysler Cirrus 162,000 miles. My car will randomly and unpredictably go into limp mode. I suddenly find myself in second gear while my engine is revving at high speed (3000-5000 RPMs) in order to maintain velocity. The check engine light comes on immediately, but usually switches off after 2-3 days maximum, and typically less than that. If I pull over, and turn off the engine, it re-sets, allowing me to start the car, and continue my journey, shifting normally.
Additional pertinent information:
• it happens more often when the weather is warm
• it has happened while traveling down the highway at 65 mph (scary!)
• at times, the shift into second is so abrupt, it feels as though I have been rear-ended
• once, while in a traffic jam and moving at about 20 mph, I hit a pot hole and the engine started revving at 3000, with no change of gears
• a couple of times, rather than throwing me into second, it has seemed to throw me into neutral, with the familiar high revs, but absolutely no power with increased pressure on the gas pedal
• it is happening with increased frequency i.e. I have had to stop as many as six times during an 16 mile trip.
• Recurring computer codes: P0140, P0141, P0700, P0765, P1494
04/2011 replace right front cam sealFront engine mountReplace front valve cover gasket w/tube sealsFront bank spark plugs & wires (3 platinum plugs)Transmission flush
05/2011 cylinder #5 misfireReplace rear valve cover gasket & tube seals3 platinum plugs (leaky power steering pump fouled the plugs)
05/2011 recall work #C45 floor shifter ignition/park interlockPush rod trans- shifter
09/2012 transmission shift solenoid
10/2012 6 new plugs & wires Plenum gasketDistributor capEGR valve gasket
There has been other service work done during this time period, but (I think) I have included only that which may relate to the transmission. I am so frustrated, and my mechanic is stumped. He has referred me to either a transmission shop, or a Chrysler dealer. After hearing my account of the problems over the phone, the head mechanic at the dealership suggested that it’s time for me to get a new car.
Honda - Accord :: 2006 V6 Hesitates During Acceleration After 5 - 10 Minutes Of Driving
I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
3 Series :: 328i Inline 6 - Starts Fine But Stumble Or Stutter When Give Car Gas To Go
328i, inline 6, starts fine. drive 100 yards to stop sign, give the car gas to go, and it seems to stumble or stutter. gas has to be pressed heavily to get it to smooth out. seems to get better as the engine warms up. no code or engine light comes up. thought the engine was just cold natured, wife says it does it with her even when warm, I couldn't duplicate when warm. Can dealer diagnosis with no code?
View 1 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1999 - Intermittent Power Steering Failure
Twice in the past two months, the power steering in my 1999 Toyota Camry has temporarily stopped working. The first time, I was making a turn out of a parking lot, and the wheel froze up (or at least became very difficult to turn). The problem completely disappeared after about 30 seconds. Two months later, the problem happened again while making a turn onto a busy street. This time, it lasted only about 10 seconds before recovering. Both times, the wheel seemed to lock after I had already turned it some amount - i.e., halfway through the turn. And both times, it was raining. I did not hear any unusual noises - e.g., belts slipping.
I have taken the car to two different mechanics (one of them the local Toyota dealer), and neither could find anything wrong with the power steering. From their visual inspection, the power steering fluid looks good, there are no obvious leaks in the system, and the power steering belt looks fine. And they were unable to replicate the problem, since it occurs so infrequently.
The mechanics have said that there are two most likely culprits - a faulty rack and pinion ($1800), or a bad power steering pump ($800). I am hesitant to spend this kind of money without believing that the problem would be fixed, but I'm also very uncomfortable driving the car when the steering could give out at any time.
What the problem might be, or how I should proceed? The car has about 100,000 miles on it and is otherwise in great shape, so I'd like to keep driving it for years to come...
Ford - Ranger :: 2008 - Rear Brakes Do Not Fully Release Only When Below Freezing
2008 Ford ranger 4x4 fx4. Rear brakes drag just enough to notice, only when temp out side is below freezing. Replaced drums and shoes. stopped using emergency brake. Had wheel cylinders inspected.
View 4 RepliesPontiac - Leaks - Grandam :: EGR Valve Throwing A Code
I drive a 1995 3.1L V6 Pontiac Grand Am SE.
My mechanic told me that my EGR valve was throwing a code, so I took it off and cleaned it out and tried to fish out some of the carbon in the air intake tube. I used carb cleaner on the valve and the tube and I sprayed a little bit of air duster into the tube, but it made a funny noise so I stopped after about 1 second of spraying.
When I put it back on, I forgot to snap the wiring harness back onto the top EGR solenoid. I reconnected the negative battery cable and started my car. The gauges red fine. I revved my engine a few times and everything seemed okay. Then I turned off my engine and then turned it back on to listen for any rough idling (that's why I decided to clean the EGR in the first place). Then I turned it off.
When I got out of the car, I realized I forgot to reattach the wiring harness to the EGR. I disconnected the negative battery cable and it sparked a tiny bit. I reconnected the wiring harness to the EGR. Afterwards, I noticed that it had leaked some fluid (I'm guess oil?) into my engine. There was a very small amount of light smoke or steam (not sure which), but it stopped a minute or two later. I've attached a picture for reference.
Is it safe to reconnect my negative battery cable and try restarting my car????