Is it possible to temporarily seal and brace up a front windshield that has a crack in it from side to side, due to cold weather, I'm told? And would replacing it with a used one, on a 2003 Dodge Intrepid be something a Saturday Mechanic with a woodstove in his garage be able to tackle?View 5 Replies
I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?View 8 Replies
There is a noise I'm trying to locate and diagnose, comes from under this 2004 Accord DX, 5 spd. i can't locate 'where' precisely. it occurs intermittently, seems correlated with suspension parts' responding to load and forces (for instance, turning into a parking lot, where there's a slight dip at the paved curb skirt entering the lot, or when there's a modest bounce as car travels along the highway--when the stable momentum of travel is interrupted, making for a "bounce" or some force transferred into suspension, e.g.). ---The sound is low in register, not loud, and best i can do is 'imagine' what assembly (assemblage, or rigging, or set-up, or contraption) could produce such a sound.
The sound--to my experience and auditory senses is like, of a torsion bar, maybe a 3/4-inch steel rod, as might be fitted transverse somewhere at rear axle area, that would serve to stabilize the sway of the vehicle, under turning conditions; (I'm only guessing here, cause my pod-nur says, or 'hears', the sound's coming from front suspension area, like when load is taken at front strut, going over the slight dip when turning from road to parking lot). so what i hear, I imagine to be a point on the rod coming sudden contact with another metal part enough that the strike produces a tuned "spring" sound, the kind of sound i imagine a spring-tensioned rod would make, or like a staccato bass note, as piano bass string could make.
M bad on the metaphor here--yet, the approximate pitch of this pernicious occasional noise is near the A or the B, in the octave below middle C--i just now tested those notes, trying to be sure I'm 'in the ball park' in reporting and elaborating symptoms, all of which have to do with 'sounds' thus far. There doesn't seem to be any other evidence of frailty, or deterioration of handling, or efficiency of the vehicle. But my concern is that maybe some rubber grommet, or shock-absorbing hard rubber part, is allowing a loss of tolerances that will develop into some dangerous driving performance--a line of concern that one would take if one heard the clicking of a CV joint, tho my case had nothing to do with that realm i believe.
The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.View 11 Replies
I fill my gas tank to 100% but I don't pump it again and overfill it like most people do after the pump stops. I then proceed to start the car. Initially it revs up and starts fine but when it revs back down to idle it does a rough idling (and sometimes it stalls). To get around the stall, I would restart and rev the engine to 3000 rpm for about 2 mins and it would be fine enough that I can drive away without it stalling but after a mile the rough idling stops and everything is back to normal. I replaced the PCV valve and it worked for about a year but it all came back again. I am stumped and every mechanic gives me a different reason and none of the reasons are even definite. It's one of those "lets try this and see what happens". One more thing, the car runs fine. It only happens when I pump more than 75% of the tank.View 5 Replies
In a recent show a listener described the exact problem I just started to have - the dash hand brake light pops on when i go over bumps or up my driveway . It was a fluid level problem but I don't remember which it was. Was it brake fluid or power steering fluid or something else?View 4 Replies
I have driven my Venza V6 AWD for 1500 miles now. A lot of people commented the electric power steering feels numb.
When I am braking slowly (or lightly) to a stop because of a red light, I feel the steering wheel is kind of locked up and harder to steer compared to other Toyota I have driven (this is my fourth Toyota). When my steering wheel is not at exact 12:00 position (a few degrees off for example), I feel the tendency of the car move off from straight a head and I have to use a bit of force (more than the usual effortless power steering) to steer it straight. I am not sure if this is a normal behaviour or so called numbness of the Venza electric power steering or it is an alignment issue that needs to be corrected.
I have a 2005 VW Golf GL, automatic tranny, 2.0L 4-cyl that has some issues during long drives in hot weather. The 1st incident occurred when I was driving on the interstate in AZ w/the outside air temp around 100 degrees. It was a flat, desolate stretch of road and I had cruise control engaged as well as the A/C turned on. Suddenly it was as if someone had let off the gas pedal, as the car began quickly slowing down from 70 or 75 to maybe 40 or so. I turned off the cruise control & tried to increase back up to highway speed manually, but there was a long lag time before the engine kicked up again. I got it back up to full speed, then moments later it would kick down again unexpectedly as if I had taken my foot off the gas even though I hadn't (and I was still not climbing any hills). The temp gauge was still normal, but I turned off the A/C just in case this was making an unnecessary drain on the engine. Still the car would behave in the same way. I took the next exit, let it rest a bit, then limped along @ a slow speed on the frontage road until the next town. Suspecting it was the MAF sensor, I had it cleaned @ a repair shop before heading back home. It ran normal for a little while during the drive back, but then the same issue.
Back in town, I replaced the whole MAF sensor, since I was told just cleaning it was a temp fix. By this time the outside air temp was cooler, & short drives to/from work went fine. However, the next time I tried taking the car on a long hot drive (from SoCal into NV), the same issue happened again! So maybe it wasn't the MAF sensor afterall (unless the replacement was faulty?). Nevertheless, I took a wet washcloth & wrapped it around the sensor, & this seemed to do the trick to get me back home again. For now I am no longer going to risk taking this car on long hot trips until I can figure out what's wrong w/it & how to fix it. I do plan to take it to a mechanic but wanted to see first if this rings any bells for people on this forum.....??
2nd, (possibly related?) problem:
Today as I was coming home, the engine stalled when I tried to take off when the light turned green @ an intersection. I limped it to the other side, pulled over, & tried starting it up again. It started right away & then ran fine. I'd been low on gas but not so low that it should be an issue. I drove the rest of the way (on a highway) to a gas station (several miles) w/o A/C, no problem. I filled it up, did the washcloth trick once again in case that was related to the problem @ all, & drove the rest of the way home just fine. Battery is relatively new (about 2 yrs.) & alternator tested fine. Did not see any corrosion on a recent check of the battery posts. Outside air temp warm today, but not that bad...only mid-80s. Temp gauge read normal.
My 2013 Sonic has died three times this week. After charging, the car runs fine, and will start up another 5-6 times with no problem. I can even turn the car off immediately after disconnecting jumper cables, and it will turn back on. I took it to Autozone to be tested yesterday, and my battery, alternator, and starter passed. (Alternator is only about 10/11 mos old. Battery and starter have never been replaced) When the battery is dead, I hear a rapid clicking sound, the interior lights are dim, and headlights wont work, Sometimes the dash lights come on, other times they don't.
Some other issues that have been going on which may or may not be related are, catalytic converter and fuel solenoid valve are faulty, and will be replaced this week. Also my car window will go down but will not come up, (no noise when attempting to roll up the window, so i don't think its off track) and the windshield wiper squirts the washer liquid under the hood, and not on the window. (Havent gotten to diagnose those issues yet).
my 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?View 3 Replies