I have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
View 13 RepliesI had a new clutch put in my '94 civic a few months back during the engine rebuild. I'm anal about saving gas so I tend to shift a bit early, not enough to make the engine chug, but I might shift into 3rd gear at 17 mph. Never had a problem with it. Since the rebuild, when I do shift earlier, the car has hiccups where there is little or no power for a half to full second. The engine will sputter for a bit until I get up into normal operating range. But it's not like before, I'm shifting no earlier than I have been for the last 6 years and have never dealt with this before. The rpm's don't shoot up so I don't think it's actually slippage.
View 11 RepliesSo heres the deal 1989 civic dx hatchback 106k on the odometer automatic 1.5l d15b2 engine . It's been having delayed starts taking 3 to 6 cranks before firing up then running fine, suddenly it dawned on me maybe it was the distributor , so I swapped it with a spare I had because sure enough the old one had red death red dust in the cap. Cleaned the contacts set the timing reassembled, some wires broke on the back of the wiring harness to the distro. Rewired them, the car kept getting worse I jumped it and took it to my friend a vw mechanic it drove 49 miles there fine after the jump, new plugs new wires new fuel filter we did the wire job set the timing checked the timing belt got the battery tested and the alternators new and did a oil change also did a coolant flush a few weeks ago.
It started right up drove it back to Chicago , in the morning I was getting off the highway it stopped running no noises I pulled over 8 cranks later it started parked it 3 blocks away, went to test drive it when I stopped at a light it shut off cramming it and hitting the gas pedal got it to start drove it a block down it shut off at a stop sign and I parked it. What it is I'm throwing code 8 which is a top dead sensor which I think is in the distro which I replaced a month ago. Fuel pump sounds like its priming but you have to gas it and crank it to start it which is odd for a automatic , it is girk injected is this tds sensor going to do that by itself? Or could it be a ignition module? ( what I read online) starter? Main relay , fuel pump switch?
I THINK my wheel bearings are going on my 2003 Nissan Altima. It has about 95k miles on it and it has been making what I would call a mid-toned rumble or a low pitched rattle (imagine shaking a metal box full of rocks). The noise is coming from the front driver's side. It's more subdued when driving in really wet weather. I am more aware of it when I drive at slower speeds. It doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel either way, and it definitely gets more pronounced when I go over a bump or a rough patch. I recently had my front rotors and pads replaced, naiively hoped that might fix it - wishful thinking - and stupidly forgot to ask my mechanic about it then. I need to call to schedule a repair, but I would like to be prepared and to know if anything else might make this noise. (and I don't want to jack it up and shake the wheel or anything).Approximately how much does it cost to have this fixed?
View 3 RepliesI am getting a raw constant raw gas odor from under the hood - and in the cabin with the ventilation on. This happens whenever the engine is on - hot, cold, at start up or 50 miles down the road. No visible leaks, no drips - nothing. My lousy Honda dealer found nothing. Pressure check on the fuel system was fine,no leaking hoses, no check engine light, no codes. Smell seems to be coming from the behind the engine on the left side (looking at the engine from the front) - behind cylinders 1 and 2. 125k EX V6.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Corolla 5spd manual that recently is having an issue when starting off in first gear. In cold weather, I get a really bad shimmy, or shake, when I'm switching from clutch to gas. The shimmy is pretty bad only when I'm at rest going into first gear, but then subtle from first to second. I feel nothing while I'm driving in the other gears. Many theories come to mind what is causing this, but I'm not sure what it could be. I've never had the transmission oil changed. it could either be the clutch plate going bad or the throttle body.
View 8 RepliesI recently rented a lovely studio apartment that the home owners built above their double garage. Both of their cars are parked in the garage every night. From the Cabriolet (20 years old) comes a powerful smell of gas after the car is turned off, which rises to my apartment. Opening the windows doesn't even work. It seems like this powerful odor is coming up through the floor and through the windows. What is the problem with this vehicle that it should be emitting such heavy fumes? By the way, their other car is a 2011 Sentra, which doesn't seem to have any bearing on this problem.
View 2 RepliesI took my 2009 VW Tiguan (which I purchased last week used from the VW dealership in Barrie Ontario) out for a drive earlier today. When I left, the ground under where it was parked was clean and dry. I came back after about an hour of driving and parked it. Then, this evening, after it sit for about 6 hours, I went out to put something in the car and noticed a puddle under the wheel. It hadn't rained and I could see/smell that the puddle was red engine coolant.
I checked the engine coolant and it was low. It's like it sprang a leak all of a sudden while it was sitting there - like someone cut a hose or something. I did a look over the engine with a flashlight and couldn't see any slashed hoses or anything. Tomorrow I'm going to call the dealership and see what they say. I'll update here with what I learn.
1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.