I bought a 1996 Toyota Camry this summer. While I was away, my parents would start it every once in a while, and the last time they did the lights would not stop flashing. The hazard lights, glove box, clock are all flashing. I have the battery disconnected until I can figure it out.
View 1 RepliesWhat can I do to fix this? 1987 Supra. No brake lights go on when I press on the brake, including the middle light. Tail lights do work, but no brake lights. It has been somewhat intermittent as well...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Santa Fe with around 140,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but the last couple of years have been fine until this morning. I tried to start it and appeared to have full battery power, but it would not turn over. Instead of a clicking sound, it was more of a whining sound it made while it tried to start. I took the battery into AutoZone and they told me it was dead, so I bought a new one and replaced it after cleaning the connector cables. The same thing is still happening with the new battery. I've attempted to jump it as well.
View 3 RepliesRecently had a new water pump and radiator put in my car. Not so sure if they are "new" but anyway.
The car does not seem to use coolant it has only slowly flowed back into the reserve tank over time spilling over a little.
So I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra which was given to me by my family and it's main issue is how much oil it is burning constantly. I find the car to be a lot more safer and reliable than my previous vehicle a 98' ford taurus. I have my 1 year old son with me daily so his safety is my #1 concern especially when we are in the car so whatever I must do to fix this issue, I am ready though I am hoping to not have to replace the engine. The car is currently at 176,653 miles as of right now. I have done a lot of research on this issue in these past months and this is what 'lve come up with.
I have seen a lot of blogs regarding similar issues that their nissan sentra was burning massive amounts of oil due to the manufacturer's precat. It has been said to relieve the vehicle from its oil burning issue to change the precat to a header so one of my questions is would you find that to be the most reasonable answer, to change the precat to a header?? I was told the precat in my car had been changed previously so I inspected the car myself due to finding the mechanic had replaced the precat with another precat thus making no change to the issue at hand. I am getting really tired of feeding my engine oil when it just guzzles it down in a day or two. Here are some questions i have:
Would changing the precat to a header be the most reasonable solution to ridding this oil burning problem?? (if thats the case this would really relieve me over the stress i endure from this car)
I currently use SAE 10W 40 High Mileage engine oil; the owner manual says to use A) SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil for all temperatures & B) SAE 10W-30 or SAE 10W-40 if the ambient temperature is above 0*F so after using choice B, would changing now to SAE 5W-30 be a good idea?
My wife's power drivers seat will only move forward not back. Fuses all look good and the passenger seat operates fine. If this continues and she hits the button again she will need to be shorter than the 5' she is already. No chance at this point I can fit in the car.
View 4 RepliesCheck engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.
View 6 RepliesA few days ago, my CEL came on when I got to work, I assumed it was a misfire because when I got off work it was off. Now, I just got to work and my CEL came on when I left my house. I have been noticing engine sputtering/wastegate when I'm around 2-3k rpm, hovering around 20-35mph, after that I don't notice it. I bought the car used at 39k miles, the 40k service, nor an oil change has been done since last september. (not sure if that's a factor). I've skimmed the forums and head it could possibly be the spark plugs/coil plugs/ or turbo.
View 6 Repliesi have an 88 volvo 240 wagon with 89K miles on it... it's been passed down through the family, is in great shape and is a joy to own. i have always have it serviced at the volvo dealership and recently had a bunch of work done to it including complete lube, oil and filter change, replaced the radiator overflow cap, replaced a leaking valve cover gasket, replaced the oil pan gasket, replaced the rear diff gasket and added oil, and replaced the sway bar links (it was an expensive visit).
to my dismay, on the way home, accelerating hard up a hill, something under the car started to rattle and black smoke started coming out of the back of the car. i took it back to the dealership and they replaced a leaking seal that they said was the problem, on the way home, same thing with the rattle and smoke happened on the same hill... maybe just stop driving on that hill, right? so i took it back and they changed the oil again (the oil levels were a bit high) and said they couldn't find anything wrong... drove the car home and seemed not to have the problem (though i did take it easy on the hill).
so today, i take the car out for a drive (usually just drive it on the weekend), and accelerating hard up the same hill i get the same rattling and black smoke that continues until i let off the acceleration. by the time i get home (a couple blocks later), it's like nothing ever happened.
Is it safe to drive as long as i don't accelerate hard? Never had this issue before all the work was done, kind of seems like i should take the car back to the dealership, but this would be the 4th time for the same issue...
05 Nissan Altima CVT 91k was running great until last week, it stalled while sitting at a traffic light, restarted the engine and ran fine but check engine sign lit up. Today at 60-70 mph engine hesitated once but was noticable, and took 3 cranks to get it to start after re-fuelling. Plugs were replaced at 55k, air filter is clean and was new 4 months ago anyway. Autozone read P0335 and P0725 something about a crankshaft and engine timing sensors?
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