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I am trying to figure out why my car makes a certain sound and movement when I shift between first and second gear. I don't think I am making the car lug or stall out because the RPMs never fall too low, but there is a clear "ka-chunk-ka-chunk" noise with a corresponding forward-backward lurch. I am pretty sure the car is fine, and it's all my bad technique because my girlfriend does not get that "effect" as much as I do (really, not at all, and it's a bit emasculating that shes such a better driver than me!). This does not happen when shifting into first from a stop, but then again, I'm not the best at that either..
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic with 120k.
My low tire light is on my 2009 VW Sportwagen SE 2.5. The tires are inflated properly even the spare tire and yet the light is still on.
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I was curious what it would take to enable the oil temp display on the MFD in the US Golf R similar to my Mk3 or on Golf Rs in other markets. I'll just mention up front, that to enable this would be (a) a fair amount of cost and work for something of marginal value, and (b) can be done easily with an external gauge instead. That said, here's what I've come up with so far:
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The instrument cluster in the US Golf R is capable of displaying oil temperature. This can be enabled through VAG-COM by changing the coding of the cluster to state that a TOG sensor is connected to the cluster. However, since the car is not equipped with the oil temp sensor, no temperature will display and a fault code will be logged.
The oil temp/level sensor is called "TOG" (Temperatur Oelstands Geber or Temperature / Oil Level Transmitter) and is used in many VAG products. It bolts into the oil pan.
To install this, we would need to replace the oil pan with an oil pan from a Golf R which is equipped with a TOG (part#?).
Not sure the part number of the TOG for the Golf R. And example of a TOG part number is 03C907660M, but I'm not sure which version is needed. A couple of misc parts (bolts, cover) may also be needed.
I suspect the sensor would then need to be wired to the instrument cluster (as opposed to the ECU or other controller). I'm not sure what the wiring for the TOG is, but I suspect it might need power, ground and then run a signal wire to the cluster. It appears to be pretty easy to remove the cluster and gain access to the cluster wiring. On other VWs, it hasn't been difficult to add a wire into the cluster connector. But we'd need to know the pin-outs of the instrument cluster to figure out where it should go.
I saw a TOG sensor wiring harness part number of 8D0-971-379B which may or may not be useful.
I purchased a 2013 Nisan Altima this past October 2012 (2.5 SL CVT). It drove beautifully the first several months until early Spring 2013 when upon deceleration (without use of brakes) the car would lurch/buck moderately to violently. It happens occasionally when I'm slowing as I approach a stop sign or to increase distance between me and a car that has moved into the lane ahead of me; it happens between 40 and 30mph down to 30 and 20mph respectively. When it happens, it feels like the front brakes have locked (but haven't). To address it, I have to accelerate or use the brakes.
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It doesn't matter if the car is running hot or cold; sometimes it can happen up to 5 times in a day or not at all for weeks. Of course, I've taken it back to the dealership twice and each time cannot replicate the problem with a tech sitting in the passenger seat. I have been told that there is nothing to be done, that this is a typical reaction when the CVT I was familiar with in my last car, a Murano, is used in a less powerful car. I expressed my concern that it didn't start out that way and that it is quite frightening when it occurs, including that friends who have been in the car with me have declared my car unsafe. I was told it was safe. I don't believe it. It's frightening, frustrating and embarrassing. What can be done to successfully identify and fix the problem? Do I need to go directly to Nissan corporate? Seeking good advice on how to handle this bad situation.
I have owned this car for about 6 months now and cannot get to the bottom of this sound/action. I have taken it to multiple shops, including the dealer where I bought it from, a Honda dealership, and two other shops (Firestone Complete Auto Care, and a local shop which is goodyear backed.) Here is the deal:
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When I accelerate past 50 mph and up to 75 miles per hour, and also when I cruise at any speed between those numbers, my car has a very distinct vibration in both the seat and steering wheel. It also has a sound that matches the intensity and magnitude of the vibration itself. The sound and vibration intensifies and decreases with changes in speed, the sound changes pitch when turning the wheel from one side to another, and the vibration gets worse as I drive up or down hills. This sound also gets louder if I apply the brakes suddenly, but also decreases with the speed of the car.
Things I have had checked:
Ball bearingsRims (One rim was actually bent (steel rims), and now is replaced.)Alignment (This was actually done at least 4 times since I've had the vehicle)Replaced tires (to rule out tire noise, and also the tires were going bad from what I believe is this problem)
I have had this car test driven to try to get opinions and either the shop denies that they hear anything, or say they do not know what the sound could be. It sounds like it is coming from the front right. I have been told by the dealership from where this car came that the sound is "road noise" and should be ignored. I disagree, because if it is "road noise" then it should go away when driving on different surfaces. When I have had my alignment checked, Firestone found that my camber on my front right and left rear were off to the right, but were still within specifications. They also said there was nothing they could do, and suggested if I wanted it fixed, I should take it to a body shop.
Included are a scan of the alignment results from Firestone, and a sound clip of the sound that is captured on my phone. Also, the sound can be heard throughout the recording, but is especially clear at around the 42 second mark.
My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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I have been getting exhaust in my car cabin since last fall. It is worst when I first start up the engine. Once I get driving, it's not so bad. Switching off the heat or recirculating the air does nothing to change things. I used a CO detector in the cabin and the alarm didn't go off, but it still worries me that I might be breathing in carbon monoxide. And none of the shops have been able to diagnose it, let alone fix it. The first shop installed a new 'flex pipe'. The dealer thinks it's coming from a gasket near the flex pipe. The exhaust manifold is not cracked. A muffler shop said there was no leak. Is it possible that exhaust is somehow getting mixed into the air via a faulty valve or vent?
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I am currently having an issue with my 2003 Yukon XL. Randomly, but mostly associated with hot outside air temps or while pulling our camper the truck will just shut off. Almost like we turned off the ignition. We don't get any sputtering or misfiring, nor does the CE light come on. After about 3-5 min we can start the truck up and keep on going. On the hot days it may do it a few more times but on others it wont do it again for weeks. I recently had it looked at and the mechanic thought it was a fuel pump. But after finding out the cost of the repair I did some investigating and found other people have had this problem. They to were told it was a fuel pump. However after it was replaced they still have had the problem.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent. The brake light recently came on. I never use the emergency brake so I am not sure what it may mean. I wanted to know if any one know what this could be about before I take the car in to a mechanic.
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I'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
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When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.