I have an 09 Accord (LX), one day the airbag light (SRS indicator) on the dash would stay on when driving, and the Seatbelt Reminder Indicator would detect the driver's seatbelt isn't engaged, even when it is.
A day later, the seatbelt indicator resumed normal operation, but the SRS light still remained on. I took it to two separate dealers and neither of them could connect to the SRS Control Unit to pull error codes from the onboard computer. They say I need to replace the SRS Control Unit to even begin troubleshooting this problem.
Can I replace my own SRS unit without accidentally triggering my airbags? Where do I order it? How do I make sure it is the correct part? Is it easy? Or I have a separate problem?
First it was the gas pedal then the distributer cap and then what I thought was the starter so when there's no spark going to it it wants to start up just fine the starter hits the flywheel without it slipping then when it does get spark the starter is constantly slipping and doesn't want to hit the flywheel right.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 pt cruiser, and it's oh I'd say -10 degrees outside. Of course my car will not start. I attempted to recharge the battery and no such luck. It sounds like everything is turning over correctly. It's just as soon as the car starts the engine shakes and makes a loud screeching noise then shuts off. Now I can't tell if it's just too cold and something is frozen or there's something wrong with one of the belts.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Mazda Protege5. It was showing signs of the CV joints going out (popping noises) so I had them replaced. Now there is still popping noises but they are different. They are less frequent. Instead of a pop, pop, pop... when turning it will pop,...........pop,........pop.... and it will only due this when it is hot outside. It also makes the noises when going over bumps some of the time. I took it back into the mechanic and had him look over everything again and he said that all the tie rods and cv joints and everything looked great. He thought it might be a wearing strut or an over tightened strut.
View 1 RepliesTwo months ago, my 2011 Ford Escape (27,000 miles) was sounding great. I took it in for a standard oil change and tire rotation. When I picked it up they mentioned that they found a nail in what is now the passenger-front tire and patched it for me. When I drove it home, I could hear a sound like "whom whom whom whom whom" coming from the front-end between 45 and 60 MPH.
I gave them the benefit of the doubt and drove it for 2 months until yesterday when I finally had enough and took it back to have them look for a cause to the problem. They said it needed an alignment and we went ahead and did that. HOWEVER, they said that after the alignment, the car would make the same sound for 500 to 1000 miles and then it would go away. I got the car back, and at best it sounds the same, and at worst it maybe sounds worse than it did.
My question: Is there any reason the car should make the same sound for 500 to 1000 miles after the alignment? Also, was it an alignment problem or do I need new tires or something else? I suspect I have been screwed by the dealership.
Caller had a problem with his car wobbling or vibrating while he was braking. The conclusion was that the rotors were warped. A quick google search would confirm that this is the most probable source of the wobble, but I'm not sure if it is correct for my problem:
I drive a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX. For quite a while not the steering and what feels like the whole car wobbles or vibrates when I brake. This is imperceptible at speeds under around 45 mph, but at high speeds it is VERY noticeable. It seems especially bad if I am going around 70 mph and lightly applying the brakes. The wobble does not happen unless the breaks are applied. So, warped rotors right? So I decided to check them and see if they are warped. I took both wheels, calipers, and rotors off my car and inspected the rotors.
My initial impression is that they looked as good as when I bought them. Of course an eye-ball diagnosis would not sufficiently answer my question so what I did was compare one rotor to the other. I put them together rotor on rotor to see if I could find any variation in shape. I figured that if one rotor was flat, while the other was warped, it would be noticeable. If both were warped, than the difference should be exaggerated. I did this multiple times to make sure I wasn't missing any warp or distortion. So as far as I can tell, they aren't warped. Another thing that I noticed, however was the brake pads. They were in good shape for the most part, but the corners/ends seems to be worn of at an angle about a quarter inch from the edge. I reassembled everything and when I drove the car, the wobble was gone. Now after about 15 minutes, the wobble returned.
Here are my Questions: Is my method of figuring out whether the rotor is warped reasonable? am i missing something?Why would the edges of the brake pads be worn down that drastically?Could the wobble come from something else? Struts? wheel bearings? bent wheel? If so, how can I diagnose/test which one it is?
2005 VW passat... I bought this car used. I was told the front engine mount needed to be replaced. When it was replaced, the vibration began. The mechanic used an after market mount. He replaced it with a VW mount and also replaced the two side mounts for the transmission with VW mounts. The vibration was still there. I then took it to a VW dealer and they confirmed that the mounts were installed properly and could not identify the cause. I took it to a third mechanic who made some adjustments to the front mount and that reduced the vibration somewhat. After a few months, the vibration increased and I took the car to another VW dealer. He said the front and side mount needed to be replaced. That was done and still the vibration continued. What else could be going on to cause this problem. Carfax indicated no accidents or body repairs.
View 14 RepliesAt idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry le 4 cylinder. When under a load on the highway there is an occasional buzzing that occurs when accelerating (sounds like a piece of metal vibrating at a high pitch). It only happens under about 3000 RPMs and the noise doesn't occur any other time (idle, reving the engine while idle, slow speeds, etc.). Today I got it up on a lift and checked all of the heat shields under the hood and around the exhaust under the car. Nothing seemed loose. I had two mechanics look at it and one thinks that the exhaust flex pipe is the culprit, while the other insists that this is a known issue with the resonator (said a small piece may have broken off of a baffle inside and is vibrating). Are either of these components well known to cause this type of issue? I'd rather not replace both if one is frequently the cause.
View 3 RepliesA year ago I replaced radiator, long job in the winter in an unheated garage. After radiator was successfully replaced Air bag warning light started to come on intermittently. More so in cold weather, less so as it warms up. I know you have to be very careful working on air bag system, disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. I have heard that this is a known problem on Jeeps, this is a 1999 Grand Cherokee with 150,000 miles. I think ti ha something to do with connector in a dash, what can I do, a car is on its last legs, will not spend money on a dealer to fix, ripped off too often during life of car. I am afraid it will not pass an Ill environmental test (not related to pollution control) I suspect it is setting a trouble code but have not checked as of yet, hasn't warmed up in Illinois yet this year.
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