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Chevrolet - Malibumaxx :: Rear Signal / Brake Lights Out - Bulbs Good
Both rear signal lights are out, so are brake lights. Driving lights work, so are high beam lights and all front turn signal lights. What should I check? I have done some research, but I could not locate the fuse or the relay flasher for my 2004 Malibu Maxx.
View 18 RepliesLincoln - Towncar :: Vibration In Front End During Hard Braking
My 79 Lincoln Town Car vibrates in the front end during hard braking and braking from more than 30-35mph. There is no vibration in the rear, during turning or felt in the wheel. Is this wheel bearings, rotors, steering linkage, tire belts slipping or suspension? She has four wheel disc with early version of anti lock on rear. Brake fluid level is good with no leakage. Tires are near new but sat for long time parked in garage.
View 1 RepliesToyota - Camry - Struts :: Front Of Car A Little Wiggly / Brakes Locking Up
My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
Acura - Vigor :: 1992 - Engine Will Turn Over But Not Start / Getting Spark
Engine will turn over but not start. it is getting spark and gas I checked coil, replaced plugs and distrib. I checked timing and firing order. Since there is spark and gas shouldn't I at least get a backfire?
View 6 RepliesHonda - Accord :: Wheels Are Screeching
Ok, so the other day we went to a friends home and we parked our car on the driveway which was about a 45 degree angle. We stayed for about an hour and when we left my wheels started making a hissing sound or a scratching sound. When I use the breaks the sound goes away but it continues all the time when I drive. Even at high rates of speed. It never did this before. Is it something with using the e-break on an angle or something. I do nto know what it could be.
View 5 RepliesStarting - Nissan - Altima :: Hard To Start When Sitting About 9 Hours?
Car is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
View 12 RepliesSaturn - SW2 :: 1999 Knocking From The Back And Then Sputters To A Stop
I am driving an `99 Saturn wagon with manual transmission. The car has held up pretty well, but lately it has developed a bit of a problem with starting and stopping the engine. When I start the car it struggles to not stall for a minute or two, an if I do not apply a bit of gas it stalls out pretty quickly (the is unable to restart for several minutes). If I keep the accelerator down a little for a minute or so I can ease off and it will no longer stall. It will then run just fine till it is time to shut off the engine, at which point it it behaves as if it was stalling, I get a knocking from the back and then it sputters to a stop.
The behavior is very consistent. I have learned to live with it, but it is annoying and I worry it is a sign of a more serious problem. I should also note that before the last time I brought it into the shop the behavior was around but not frequent, now it is 'all the time', which is part of why I want a better understanding rather then just taking their word for everything.
Ford - Taurus :: 2003 Start To Shudder Intermittently If Turn On The AC When Idling
I'm having trouble with my Taurus 2003 and the mechanic is struggling to find anything wrong;When idling, if I turn on the A/C on the car will start to shudder intermittently. It feels kinda like an engine misfire...The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and the trouble seemed to disappear but was back again after a number of weeks. When I took the car back the oil-seal was leaking so I got those replaced. It may possibly have been better for a few days [It's a bit difficult to gauge as the problem is somewhat intermittent] but then the problem was back.
View 14 RepliesToyota - Tacoma - Suspension - Noises :: Clunk Upon Acceleration Occasionally
I have an '04 TRD Doublecab 4x4. I first started hearing a "clunk" upon acceleration, but only occasionally. It started getting worse and would happen pretty much every time I accelerate (although it never got louder, just more frequent). It usually only happens after a full stop (or near stop like in stop an go traffic), and I'd hear it pretty much right when I step on the gas. It seems like it has something to do with the A arms moving forward and back. When you accel, the rear wheels push the vehicle, essentially "sucking" the front wheels back slightly. When in 4wd, the noise is still there. It is quite obvious it's coming from the front right corner. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, so I decided to swap the upper A-arm bushings and upper ball joint (ball joint was leaking grease). Noise is still there. I ran out of time/motivation, so I took it to the Toyota dealer.
Here's what they did: -replaced front right coil-over, said it was "loose". That didn't work, so they put the old one back on. -tightened bumper etc..., didn't work. -then they removed the REAR drive-line and put it in 4x4 and drove it around. They say that "fixed" the problem since the noise went away. They were pretty adamant it was the drive line, but I didn't believe them since the noise is OBVIOUSLY coming from the front right. It just seems odd that it'd be the drive line. I took it home and tried what they said, I took the drive line off and drove it around in 4wd. They weren't lying, the noise went away. But since a good friend has an identical truck (but an '03) I switched our drive lines and the noise came back (HA! I was right!!). Driving in "front wheel drive" (no drive line) makes the front wheels "pull" the truck forward, vs in rear wheel drive, the rear wheels "push" the truck, and thus the front wheels will move backward slightly because of wheel/bearing friction.
I think it has something to do with when the front wheel is forced "backwards" but as far as I cal tell, all the suspension components are intact and show no signs of looseness. I can now occasionally hear the noise when under slight accel going over studder bumps like street reflectors or something (but only rarely, it's almost impossible to duplicate that on command. Makes me think a suspension piece is loose (shock/spring or loose bushing), but I NEVER hear the noise under braking, and rarely hear it on those studder bumps (and only for a split second). If it were a loose bushing, wouldn't I hear the clunk under accel AND decel (A arm moving back and forth)??? So I'm basically stumped (so was the dealer!). Ball joints appear fine, wheel bearing has no slop (that I can tell), and it has brand new upper urithane bushings and a new upper ball joint. I KNOW it's not the shock/spring, b/c I even swapped the left/right, and the noise is still there (and didn't move to the other side).
Toyota - Oil - Camry :: Oil Leak / Sizable Puddles Under The Car
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry. It has leaked a little oil off and on for awhile, but seemed to need just a quart of oil every few months. A couple of weeks ago, I was a t the gas station, checking air in my tires, water in the radiator, and I needed to put in 2 qts. of oil. For some reason I got distracted and forgot to put the oil cap back on the engine.
I drove 30mls x2 and realized that there was a funny smell that I needed to check. Looked under the hood and found the oil cap sitting there! Went to the gas station checked the oil and it needed 2 qts. once again. Went to the car wash, washed out the inside of the car (shielding the alternator from water), went home and my car started showing sizable puddles of oil under the car for the next several days and the dip stick showed nothing after 4 days (usually means 2 qts down)! 2 qts in 4 days--what's going on?