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every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
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The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
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So I have an 06 mercury mountaineer it was making a rubbing noise from the rear left tire area so I replaced the bearing took the merc for a test drive and as soon as I applied pressure to the accelerator the TCS kicked off all power and it left like the brakes on the front left engaged (accompanied by some nasty grinding noises). I have taken it apart replaced the hub assembly and the cv axle, nothing looks to be out of place and everything is clean I cant think of anything else it could be..
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1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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I drive a 2000 Isuzu Trooper. About 3 weeks ago my oil light came on while driving. I immediately stopped, checked my oil, then had my car towed to the shop, worried that I had lost oil pressure. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong--oil was full, pressure is fine. He couldn't even get the light to come on once my car was at the shop. I drove home, and the light came on later during my drive. Knowing everything was okay, I continued.
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I brought my car in again today since the light has been consistently coming on since then (which includes constantly turning on/off, flickering, dimming, brightening). He replaced my oil sending unit. I drive away today, and the light hasn't come on yet.
However, I just realized that it also isn't showing when I first turn my key and do a light check. I'm kind of frustrated with him (and also myself) that he or I didn't realize that it wasn't coming on for the light check, and instead just called it good since it wasn't coming on while driving. What could be going on?
My 2006 650i loses power under moderate to heavy acceleration. If I accelerate from anywhere over 2500rpm, it will accelerate then the engine rpm will drop suddenly by 500-1500rpm, and then will continue to accelerate again from this lower rpm. It only seems to happen once each time I punch the pedal. The car does not throw any codes. I have had the dealer and Dinan Performance examine the problem and they have not been able to isolate the problem. They have run vacuum leakage tests, fuel pressure tests, and may have checked the throttle position sensor. This really takes the fun out of driving this car. I have about 50K miles on it.
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My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
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My 202 Honda Civic EX is having serious 'bad vibes' that the mechanic has not been able to fix. actually, i don't think he has even driven my car, much less even tried to fix the problem. meanwhile, it's driving me crazy. the mechanic just replaced the motor mounts. I got in the car and the problem is STILL there. the vibration is easy to see when the car is idling - the hood vibrates and the rear view mirror also shakes, I can feel the vibration in the driver seat and steering wheel. i can also feel the vibration in the passenger seat, though it is a little less noticeable. There is also a noise to go along with the vibration, especially when idling, it sounds as if i need a new muffler, but i can't hear the sound outside of the car, only inside the car. What the problem is?
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Bought 09 Buick Lacrosse CX 4/11 with 26K mi. Jun. '12 passenger airbag began turning off intermittently with passenger in seat. Buick shop replaced pps module. In 2/13 it began doing it again. This time buick shop said the computer was being confused by placing items on the seat weighing less than 75-80 lbs. and didn't know whether to stay on or turn off. They "reset" computer. Been placing items on the seat ever since buying and never experienced this problem. Is the airbag sensor that sensitive? It's doing it again, a few days after the shop "fixed" it with the reset, and I only placed a newspaper on the edge of the seat and snatched it back up immediately.
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I have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
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