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Toyota - Starting - Celica :: 1990 - No Restart After Driven For A While
I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
Chevrolet - Classic - Transmissions :: 1970 - Stuck In Gear
I went to drive my 1970 Nova today and after driving it for about 15 seconds it seemed to stick in second gear. I cannot get it to go into neutral to be able to put it into any other gear including reverse. The shifter is on the floor. I have no clue what is going on- If it's something with the linkage between the shifter and the transmission or something with the clutch. It has never acted this way before and gave no indication that a problem was on the horizon.
View 13 RepliesSubaru - Steering - Impreza - Wheels :: Violent Shaking Upon Acceleration At 65 Mph
Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
View 4 RepliesBrakes - Mitsubishi - Outlander :: Check Brake Light Has Come On
2010 Mitsubishi Outlander ES On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine. What this could be?
Mazda - Protege :: 1992 - Check Engine Light Coming On - Rough And Sputter
I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
Honda - Accord :: 2005 - Engine Lurches / Stutters And Oscillates At 2500 RPMs
Yesterday as I crawled my way through heavy traffic on my drive home from work, my car started lurching unexpectedly. When I let up on the gas, the lurching subsided. I was able to recreate the behavior multiple times on my drive home, as well as while parked in my driveway. As the RPM exceeded 2500 the engine would lose oomph/power and the RPM would start stuttering/oscillating between ~2500 and ~2800 RPM. The behavior was identical regardless of which gear I was in (D1, D2, D3, D, or N), regardless of my speed, and regardless of how aggressively I was pressing the accelerator pedal. Every time the RPM hit 2500, the engine freaked out.
This morning, it did NOT happen when I tested it briefly. I was able to rev up to 3500-4000 RPM without any issues. I did read a case online in which someone experienced a similar issue that only manifested after the engine had been running a while. My car has ~173k miles on it, and this is its first engine issue. What might be causing this?
Video attached; also located here: [URL] ....
Honda Civic Hybrid :: Navigation System Did Not Turn On
I've got a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid with Navigation. This morning, the navigation system did not turn on, and the screen- which is also the screen for the radio- does not work. I can still listen to the radio, but I have to use the steering wheel controls to operate, and I have to use the voice command to turn the radio on and off... the navigation screen is completely inoperable. To be honest, the only idea I have is that the fuse needs replacing?
View 4 RepliesPassat - Engines - Vibration - Volkswagen :: 2005 - Vibrates When In Gear And Brake Is On
2005 VW passat... I bought this car used. I was told the front engine mount needed to be replaced. When it was replaced, the vibration began. The mechanic used an after market mount. He replaced it with a VW mount and also replaced the two side mounts for the transmission with VW mounts. The vibration was still there. I then took it to a VW dealer and they confirmed that the mounts were installed properly and could not identify the cause. I took it to a third mechanic who made some adjustments to the front mount and that reduced the vibration somewhat. After a few months, the vibration increased and I took the car to another VW dealer. He said the front and side mount needed to be replaced. That was done and still the vibration continued. What else could be going on to cause this problem. Carfax indicated no accidents or body repairs.
View 14 RepliesJeep - Cylinder - Liberty :: 2001 - Spewing Black Smoke Out Of Tailpipe / Misfiring
I have a 2001 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4. 150,000 miles. I had the ignition coil changed on cylinder #5 last weekend and then this weekend it started spewing black smoke out the tailpipe. Dealer says cylinder #2 is misfiring and he would have to replace the cylinder head. The main issue is that the part is backordered for an indefinite amount of time so I have no way to know if or when it could be fixed. If it could be fixed there wold be no guarantee it would work for much longer. It is obviously cheaper to repair the car than get a new one, but at some point the is the law of diminishing returns...
View 12 RepliesCavalier - Vibration - Chevrolet :: 1992 - Rumble And Vibrate While Idling In Drive
1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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