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Saturn - Vue :: 2002 - Door Lock Switch / Key Fob Not Working
I have a 2002 Saturn Vue with a couple of miles on it (228,436 to be exact). I bought the car used in 2009 with 150K miles. Since I bought the vehicle, the electric door locks have stopped working, both with the key fop and with the door lock switches. This all started with the key fob working intermittently, and eventually degraded to the door lock switches not working. When I press the door lock switches on any of the doors you can hear the relay try to engage, however the doors do not lock or unlock. This is particularly interesting since now when I turn the ignition off, instead of unlocking the door, the system locks three of the doors and the hatch (it does nothing with the driver side door). I am not sure where to start looking for the root cause of this problem.
View 6 RepliesMazda - Mazda3 :: 2007 - Rattle From The Front Passenger Window
About a month ago, I noticed my 2007 Mazda3 making a rattling noise whenever the front passenger window is anywhere from cracked to almost all the way down. When the window is up or all the way down, there is no noise. When the door is in it's "sound-prone" state, I can replicate the sound either by going over a bump or just pulling and pushing on the door interior door handle. I've looked this up online and it seems to be pointing toward me needing a new window regulator. I haven't noticed any function loss, just the rattling sound that makes it sound like the car's falling apart. Does this seem like the right thing to try? What would cause the regulator to malfunction after only four years? Should I buy new or look for it at the local salvage yards? If it matters, my Mazda3 has electric windows.
View 4 RepliesSaturn - Engines - Noises - Lw :: 2009 - Odd Ticking Sound From Engine?
Ticking sound from the engine compartment. Here are the clues:
Have observed this since at least probably 2009. Affects a 2000 Saturn LW1 with DOHC 4-cylinder engine.
It's a mechanical "ticking" sound that seems to come from the right side under the hood.
It only happens in cold weather.
It typically starts a couple of minutes after the car is first started up on a cold morning.
It typically goes away when the engine warms up (after several minutes).
It always repeats at the same rate, maybe about 7?8 ticks per second.
It is independent of engine RPM.
It is independent of vehicle speed
Sometimes (but not always) it stops when you lift your foot off the accelerator (it may tend to do this after the engine has warmed up a bit). When you depress the accelerator it resumes It doesn't seem to affect performance but I'd love to know what it is and whether I need to worry.
Jeep - Overheating :: 2006 / 3.7L - Temp Gauge On Dash Reading High When Driving
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L that has a temperature gauge on the dash that reads an overheat when driving. The oil looks normal, there is no white smoke, no bubbling from reservoir. I have replaced the following:
Radiator
Thermostat
Water Pump
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Coolant Reservoir Tank
I am not leaking any coolant and the reservoir level has been fine. I have let the vehicle idle for 20+minutes, with no overheat. When I drive it around, the temperature gauge will read an overheat. When I stop the car and pop the hood, the engine is not overheated and both rubber hoses to/from radiator are flowing the coolant. The only thing that will bring the gauge down is turning on the heater full blast. Could this be the gauge itself being bad? Could it be a short in a wire somewhere? I had thought maybe a head gasket, but have no symptoms of a head gasket.
Chevrolet - Silverado3500 :: A/C Causes Stall When Temperature Is 104 Or Above
I have a 1992 Chevy Silverado 3500 with 28000 original miles. It runs fine as long as the A/C is off. If I run the A/C on a day where the temperature reaches 104+ the engine will stall and cannot be restarted for at least 30 minutes. I have taken the pickup to several shops but they are clueless.
I contacted an A/C "pro" who said to "bring it in when it stalls." I'm not exactly sure how I would do that since I can't drive it.
Camry :: 1997 - Light Output From Headlights Always Dim
The light output from these headlights has always been less that other cars on the road. I polished the lenses with the latest stuff. They look nice and clear, but the lights are not brighter. I put in new bulbs. No difference. I have a solution. Since I seldom use the brights, I want to drive with the brights on all the time and aim the lights so they are not blinding to oncoming drivers or drivers that I am following. How do I accomplish this?
View 9 RepliesSubaru - Tires - Legacy - Wheels :: 1999 - Tire Rotation / Noisy And Chopped
My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
View 13 RepliesHonda - Manual-transmissions - Accord :: Clack When Change Gears
I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
Venture :: No Injector Pulse When No Start
I have a 02 venture with the 3.4L. No injector pulse when no start. Security system seems to be working properly. Just changed the crank sensor behind balancer and still does the same thing. No trouble codes present. Just not sure what to check next.
View 1 RepliesDodge - Charter :: 2007 - Code P0158 / Bad O2 Sensor
I have a 2007 Dodge Charter 3.5L v6 Automatic that is having a few issues that I think are related. It all started with a P0158 Code O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2. Had this go on my previous vehicle so I inspected the O2 Sensor on passenger side closest to the back of the car. Wiring harness is fine, so I replaced the sensor. The code came back after about 3 days of driving (30-60mi/day).
Then I remembered some of the other issues I thought were not important, but wondering if together they mean something.
1.) While idling the engine seems to stutter, almost like its about to stall. Almost like it is starved of fuel for a second. This happens maybe 3 times a week.
2.) One out of Twenty starts are rough. I will turn they key, the starter/engine will crank and will take about 3-5 seconds to turn over.
3.) Significant drop in gas mileage. I usually get 340-350 miles before my low fuel warning light will go off. Now it will go off at around 290-300.
4.) When filling up at the gas station, the pump will shut off like it is full, when I know for a fact it is not (i.e. putting 1 gallon in when the tank is half full). I have tested this with the tank at multiple different levels and the issue always occurs. So even when my gas gauge tells me I am full, I never really know because the pump shuts off multiple times. That could be the reason for the mileage short, my tank is not actually full (fingers crossed).
5.) My OBD2 reader is showing the following information other than the code above: Readiness Monitors - 5 Complete, 3 Incomplete. The monitors that are incomplete are: Catalyst monitoring, Oxygen sensor and ERG system monitoring.
So my questions are: Did I replace the wrong O2 Sensor and is the Bank 2/Sensor 2 on the left (drivers side) and not the right? Is the issue the Catalytic Converter (I would assume the car would be throwing more codes at me)? And lastly, am I the lucky guy that has the last, and most unlikely, issue with the P0158 code and I have an issue with my fuel pressure/delivery system since I am getting gas fume kickback causing the gas pump to shut off prematurely?