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Toyota - Airconditioning :: 2009 Venza AC Working Intermittently
My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
Pontiac - Sunfire :: 2000 - Stalls While Accelerating?
Any way, my 2000 Pontiac Sunfire will randomly not accelerate while I am driving. I was initially rolling up to a red light so took my foot of the gas at about 20 mph, then the light turned green so I tried to hit the gas but nothing happened for about 5-7 seconds. So I was just coasting, but then I hit the gas and everything was fine. It did this a second time on the way home. Two days later I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. Nothing was happening--no noises, nothing. So I got my battery tested--Autozone tested it and said it was bad, but after replacing the battery nothing happened still.
Then a "mobile mechanic" came and stuck a screw driver into the starter to short circuit it so it made a sound like it was trying to start, but didn't. Then after a few minutes he looked and my radio was on and it started with the key. Since then it has not started only one time when I used a screw driver to start it myself, but when I was on a steep incline last night it kept not accelerating if I made it work too hard. I would be at ~65 mph and it would just quit so I'd pull off the side of the road and it would drop to ~40 mph for ~5-7 seconds, then I'd hit the gas again and it would go just fine. It did this about 3-4 times. One time all the lights on the dashboard flashed on when it wouldn't go. One time it just completely stalled on me when I was driving. I pulled off the side of the road and started it again and it was fine.
Suburban :: Driver Door Interior Handle Broken?
1996 K2500 Sub. My driver's door inside handle broke. I can get just the handle, or the whole inside unit w/handle for about the same price. Any difference in installation? One easier than the other?
View 1 RepliesChevrolet - Blazer :: RPMs Surge High At Startup, Then Dies
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
View 11 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2001 - Smell Of Burning Coolant
So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)
Jetta :: Change Catalytic Converter After 12,000 Miles?
My car had its check engine light come on a few days ago, and the engine started to get extremely loud whenever I was accelerating. I would also smell gas whenever I would start the car. I decided to take it to a mechanic, who did a diagnostic check and told me that my catalytic converter was busted. This troubled me because I had just had the part replaced a little over two years ago. I figured the part would still be under warranty, but the mechanic that I had used to replace the cat told me that it was only under warranty for one year or 12,000 miles, according to the distributor. Well, I got a hold of the distributor, and he told me that he didn't have the information for the specific part that he used (he just told me that he "figured" it would be one year or 12,000 miles because most of the parts that they receive have warranties of that length....). Shops are closed now for the weekend, and I am getting worried about my bank account here...should I be?
Well, my questions for you all are as follows:1) Have you all ever heard of a catalytic converter ever having only a 1 year or 12,000-mile warranty? My current mechanic tells me he has never heard of one being so short, and that usually they are 5 years or 50,000 miles. I did minimal research on the internet and also found similar results.2) Who do I need to get into contact with in order to find out how long the warranty is, and how I redeem the warranty?
Kia - Rio5 :: 2002 - Transmission Fluid Flush And Front End Rattling
I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
Lumina :: Driver Door Is Stuck Closed And Won't Open
The door handle isn't broken as far as I can tell, I just went to get in the car one day, put the key in the door lock, turned it to the right like I always do and the door wouldn't open. After trying a few times I went to the passenger side and got in, hit the unlock button to unlock all the doors and the driver door still wouldn't open. I took the trim piece off (the little piece that covers the door lock) the inside of the door and attempted to manually unlock the door by pulling the rod but to no avail.
What I should do next? It seems like I would have to have the door open to get whole inside door panel off so I'm not really sure what to do.
1st gen lumina .....
Impala - Chevrolet :: 2004 - Speedometer Will Shift 10 Or 20 Mph Faster Than Actual Speed
Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
View 5 RepliesSaturn - Sc :: 1997 - After Parking At Start Up All Dash Lights Comes On?
My friend drives a 1997 Saturn SC2 with 150,000 miles. It's an automatic transmission. For the most part, the car runs great, save for one problem.
Occasionally, she'll park the car (like say, at the grocery store), and when she tries to start it up again, say a half hour later, the lights on the dash will come on, and the radio will come on, but the engine won't crank. Not even a click or anything. Typically, she'll call a tow truck, the guy will show up, turn the key, and it'll start right up. This has happened at least half a dozen times, including just last night in my driveway.
What do you guys think could be causing this? Initially I thought loose battery cables, but since her electrical accessories are consistently coming "on," that's obviously not the problem. Now I'm thinking neutral safety switch, but I'm not 100% sure.