My car is 1990 BMW E34 M20B20 that uses 4HP22 transmission and here is the problem:
When I put it from P into R it makes a sound like a hitting and doesn't move but you can understand it is on load, because when I step on the gas, engine cannot outrun 2000 rpm (even at trying to rev).
When I shift into N, it starts to move forward and it's drivable but not an engaged drive, and while traveling or not, when I shift from N into D, it retrieves the engaged drive and goes normal.
I think it cannot leave 1st gear or all forward clutches. What the problem could be?
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
[URL] .... . I don't know what this noise could be. I have a 2009 pontiac g8 gt. This noise happens from braking lightly but not hard. Sometimes also when driving. Also does not happen all the time mostly when warmed up
View 3 RepliesThis is regarding my 96 BMW 328i. It has approximately 177,000 miles on it. Over the past year, I've replaced the cooling system, fuel pump, alternator and trans fluid for kicks. So, I'm understandably frustrated with it. Anyway, to my story:
On my way into work, whenever I pressed in on the clutch, it would make a loud clunk/pop and freak me out. I turned around after 1/4 of the way and swapped cars.
My mechanical skills are maybe 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. I'm not afraid of changing oil, brake pads, transmission fluid, changing an alternator, etc. But I want to have someone to blame for anything that involves anything within the engine block/head/transmission continuum.
I noticed that a heat shield was loose between the driveshaft and the exhaust. I rapped it with a hammer, and the heat shield didn't make a noise anything like I'm hearing. So, it doesn't sound like that's the real culprit here.
I have a 95 VW Corrado VR6. The indications are that the vehicle will turn over and increase RPM when ignition is turned over. When RPM goes down to idle it continues to zero and dies. If I press the accelerator while starting the car the same thing happens. This originally happened back in October and I did not get it fix or looked at until early April. The shop I took it to replaced the battery and it started right up. I then drove it off and on for about 3 weeks (low speed/no freeway and no more than 1 hour in duration) and then it started doing the exact same thing. That day I had driven home from work which is only about 3 miles. Several hours later I needed to move the car and it started and I moved it 40 feet or so. I then decided I didn't like my parking job and tried to start the car again and it would not start. I am thinking a faulty alternator but not sure if it would fail like this.
View 1 Repliesmy 1992 BMW 3-series makes a horrible noise when I turn the wheel sharply in either direction. the noise however gets better as the car warms up, and after half an hour of driving has gone away. if I turn the engine off for an hour and start it up again, the noise is back. my sister think it's the steering column. my brother-in-law thinks it's the power steering pump, or some kind of really complicated switch to do with RPM that I don't understand.
View 1 Replies86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
I have a Ford Escape 2013. When accelerating to around 60 km/h (40 m/h), it bumps after pedal release (It accelerates right after pedal release, while normally it should decelerates and stays put). This problem only happens at around 60 km/h (40 m/h) and no happen at other speed. But at lower speed transmission is sometimes jerky when accelerating or decelerating. I took car to Ford dealer, and they reloaded (reset) the programming module. It worked better in 1st week, but got worse after that. I notice that transmission jerky problem is worse in hot weather (over 20 degree with sunshine), but is better in cool and cloudy weather and not sure in cold weather.
View 3 RepliesWhen it is hot out and the interior of the car gets really hot these things do not work: the electric windows will not work, the turn signals will not work, the display on the air conditioner does not work the blower on the air will not work but the air will come out of the defroster. All the dash lights come on abs, trac on trac off. After the car sits in the shade for at least an hour all these things will work.
View 1 RepliesDetails. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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