I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
I was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
View 2 Replies95 Honda Civic. Manual Trans and Steering. CV joints have 40K since rebuild, 50K on tires. Tire Press and Tq is good. Steering does not pull either way, suspension feels tight. Happens with/without brakes. I noticed that the steering wheel has developed an occasional left right shake that is proportional to the speed of the car. Seems to be most pronouced about 45 mph, however it continues until the car comes to a stop sometimes, well below the speed an unbalanced tire might be an issue. I noticed the problem when it started getting cold and can not figure out if it a road issue (in IL = bad roads), or a car issue.
View 2 RepliesMy car, a 2009 Civic, has started sounding like an airplane when I brake, just in the last day or so. Sometimes the noise continues for a little bit after I'm off the brake and moving again, but mostly not. Obviously, I'm going to get it in to the shop, but my question is do I need to take off work and do it today / tomorrow (Tuesday / Wednesday), or will it probably be OK if I wait until Saturday morning?
View 12 RepliesMy right rear brakeline blew out on my 2000 Buick Century, but even though the car has dual master cylinder which had been giving me no trouble, brake light not lit, car would stop properly untill blowout, no blowouts or leaks in front brake system, I lost pedal altogether for both systems and had to creep home using emergency brake. Isn't a dual system supposed to still give me my front brakes, in a rear blowout? ABS seems ok, anti-lock light never came on.
View 10 Replies2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
View 8 RepliesAbout 2 weeks ago my 1997 Buick Park Ave (115,000 miles) began running bad during a heavy rain storm. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden at a stop light the motor hesitated and wanted to stall. I nursed the gas peddle and limped home and turned the car off. The car hesitated and sputtered all the way home as if I was running out of gas.The next day the car would not start. It turned over but would not start. I tried starting the car for three days. My mechanic friend later diagnosed the car and stated the computer was not functioning correctly. He replaced the computer. The new computer seemed to correct the problem.
The car ran great for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday, it was raining hard while I drove the car about 150 miles without any problem. Then suddenly again the motor started running badly. Again, the motor wanted to stall and hesitate as if I was running out of gas. I limped home again. This morning I tried to start the car without any luck. In addition to installing a new computer, In the last 2 months I have changed all the fuel injectors and installed new spark plugs.I have also changed the fuel pump and repaired the fuel tank. My mechanic say the cam sensor and crank sensor are operating correctly. There is spark coming from the coil packs and to the spark plugs. I do not want to randomly change parts.
1999 Pontiac Grand AM SE. I was driving my car last night, at about 45 mph, when all of a sudden, my ABS Warning light and the "Track OFF" light came on simultaneously. I wasn't braking at all. I pulled over, turned the car off, turned it back on, and they dinged on immediately, before I even had a chance to shift the car out of park. I drove carefully home and parked my car overnight. This morning, I drove (about 35 miles away), and both the warning lights remained off for a little over half my trip.
They came on, however, when I was driving about 70 mph on I-95, and I wasn't braking. I even left the ETS on, which I usually turn off to save on gas. I don't understand what is going on. In the past, I have had the ABS warning light come on when I'm practically coasting and actively braking, but turning the car off and back on clears the issue. I've never had the issue where the ABS light comes on and stays on despite turning the car off, and the "Track OFF" light has never come on by itself without me turning the ETS off.