I have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
View 2 RepliesSo four lanes, divided, with a left turn lane, five lanes at the intersection. I'm down ~15 mph, maximum turn speed and one car is just clearing intersection and and +100 yards from next approaching slug of traffic. Keeping the speed, I make the left turn confident no problem then halfway through turn:
feels like a soft tuck
traction light flashes
already to straighten out
everything normal
This is the second time I've seen this in a year. Pavement dry, 48 hours since last rain; ~8:00 AM so rush hour is on. Before doing some parking lot tests, any clue about how to replicate?
My dashcam SD card did not play.
My wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
my 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?
View 3 RepliesWhile driving my 97 Saturn SW2, the car couldn't shift into a higher gear (out of 2nd). while pushing on the gas, the RPM's would go higher but not shift. Also, the 'Service Engine' light came on. I don't have a code reader. Luckily I was close to home. When it parked it, I noticed a leak under the car, in the front section of the engine. I've also noticed that the past few days when putting the vehicle into reverse, it lurches pretty hard when it catches (as in, it jerks the car back suddenly). What could be the problem(s)? Should I drive this to the mechanic or have it towed?
View 7 RepliesSo I have a 2003 Ford Tauraus. I took my car in last week for its regular 10,000 mile check up. While there, I asked the mechanic to check my fan belt as I had experienced some squeaking in that area. When I first noticed the squeaking, I picked up some belt conditioner from Auto Zone and had sprayed it, and that stopped the squeaking for a few weeks. The mechanic stated that nothing was wrong with the fan belt, and so I took it home.
This week, starting as of Monday, the right side of the car is squeaking again. I sprayed the fan belt with the belt conditioner again this morning, but only seemed to make the squeaking worse. As of this morning, there is no smoke coming from under the hood and no overheat signal has come on. It only squeaks when I am going 30 or under on the road. I am debating whether I should take it back to the shop or what I should do.
I recently purchased a B9 Tribeca I had it completely checked out, brakes, engine everything. Everyone told me it was fine, this past Friday/Saturday was our first freeze and snow. I went to get into the car around noon, so it had warmed up to maybe 40 by then, and I put my foot on the brake pedal and it didn't feel right at all. Thinking I was imagining things I put it into reverse and took off the emergency brake, and realized rather quickly I had no brakes. quickly put it back into park and popped the hood. My brake fluid was full (right below the max line), I let the car sit there and pumped the brake pedal for like 2 minutes. After it made it all the way to the floor it eventually came back to where it should be and appeared to work just fine. I drove the car without any problems with the brakes for the rest of the day. My question is should I get the brakes checked out again, or is there something specific I should have them check so I don't have to worry about the brakes next time it freezes.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1995 Mazda Truck, B2300 series that is a 4 wheel drive. Recently I had the front brakes replaced, new clay disc brakes. Not so long after that I started to hear a noise as I was braking as well as squeaking. I thought, of course it had something to do with the new brakes. The sound happened occasionally at first and now is every time I brake.
I can hear it as I'm coming to a stop, sounding like it's coming from the rear. It's a rubbing type noise, like a wa, wa, wa, wa that happens until I have stopped. After 2 mechanics I now have a $700 estimate to replace the u-joint, and they aren't even sure if that will fix it.
The front brakes are new. The rear drums have been replaced and machined to fit properly (they thought that was the issue). Is this common or something that I have to fix every such and such miles?
have a 2000 Honda CR-V with a B20Z2 engine and automatic tranny. This Honda has an idle surge that just won't quit!! (surge= rpms rise and fall, repeat) It's really driving me nuts and I need this car to drive for school next week! So far, I've:
-cleaned throttle body
-replaced spark plug wires (plugs are fairly new), distributor rotor, and distributor cap
-bleed coolant
-ECU relearn idle
-adjusted intake and exhaust valves (tight exhaust valves are incredibly common on my engine)
-cleaned out Idle Air Control Valve with Simple Green
-performed vacuum test (with propane, not carb cleaner since it works the same)
-performed compression test (every cylinder checked out)
-replaced throttle body gasket
I've had Check Engine Light misfire codes for a while now, but they pretty much disappeared after the valve job. All that's left is an Idle Air Control System code (P0505). I'm am completely stumped at what to do now. What's more is that white smoke has started pouring out of the tailpipe and it doesn't smell like coolant. At first I thought it was the oil in the cylinders from the compression test, but now I'm not sure. It doesn't really smell like oil or coolant, but it smells like something is burning....
My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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