Recently Indexed Messages:-



Chevrolet - Avalanche :: 2003 (5.3L) Suddenly Started Losing Oil

My 2003 Avalanche (5.3L) suddenly started losing oil, 2 quarts since my last oil change (3,000 mi). There is no evidence of it leaking and no apparent smoking, so when I went to get my oil changed today I was telling my mechanic about it. They couldn't find any evidence of a leak either. Then when the pulled the fill plug on the transfer case fluid poured out, a lot of fluid. They are the only ones that service this vehicle so we were puzzled as to how it could be overfilled, especially by so much. Then I got to thinking, the engine has lost about two quarts of oil and the transfer case has mysteriously gained a bunch, possibly two quarts. So the question is, is it possible that the engine oil is somehow moving into the transfer case?

View 19 Replies

Ford - Ranger :: 1998 - Clunk Upon Acceleration

When stopped and accelerating normally I hear an audible clunk, but feel nothing. If I gently accelerate from stop it does not occur. 1998 ford ranger 4x4 ....

View 1 Replies

Chevrolet :: Smoke Comes After About 10 Minutes Of Driving

My check engine light has come on, and I have white smoke coming from under my hood when I drive. I'm trying to diagnose this and fix it. My mechanic had my car for a whole day and told me he needed more time to find out what it is.

My car is a 2002 chevy impala, and the smoke only comes after about 10 minutes of driving, and only lasts for about five minutes. When I open my hood, it seems the smoke is coming from the right side of my engine, maybe underneath, but it's hard to tell, but when I look just below the right side of the engine it does look to be a little bit wet down there. The smoke has a kind of sweet smell. So far, the car is still running fine.

The smoke only comes the first time I drive my car for the day.

View 12 Replies

Eclipse - Mitsubishi - Noises :: Feel And Sound Like Driving Over Road Warning Strips Under Acceleration

2001, 5-speed, 6 cylinder, 140K miles. Under acceleration, it feels and sounds like I'm driving over road warning strips. While coasting, it goes away. The CVJ's and wheel bearings appear to be OK. Could it be the final drive? It happens in all the gears.

View 3 Replies

Gmc - Terrain :: 2012 - Unknown Noise Under The Hood

I have a newly acquired 2012 GMC Terrain, SLT2, FWD, four cylinder. I have discovered something my dealer has never heard of and knows nothing about, but says it must be normal!!! With the engine (hot or cold) and ignition off, key removed, about 15 seconds after opening any door, rear hatch, or hood, a "clicking" sound starts up under the hood and lasts several seconds. The same thing happens again after you close the door, rear hatch, or hood!! Using my automotive stethoscope, I have traced the sound to the front cover of the automatic transmission where there is an electrical connection. It is very audible at that point.

This is not causing any problems, but I would really like to know what it is and if, in fact, it IS "normal". If it is not normal, I need to get it repaired as soon as possible, as the car is still covered under GM's Certified Pre-Owned vehicle warranty. My dealer rep. could actually hear the "clicking", but was not concerned enough about it to even try to find out what it was!! He just told me it was normal!!

View 2 Replies

Subaru - Brakes - Impreza :: Engine Rev But Wheels Not Turning After Braking On Sudden Stop

On the expressway, I was driving my 2013 Subaru Impreza about 50 mph and had occasion to make a sudden stop. There were no crashes, and traffic started up again immediately - except for me! There I was, in the left lane, and when I depressed the gas pedal the car stayed put. I could hear the engine rev, but the wheels didn't turn. I had to turn the car off and start it again before I could move forward. What could be going on?

View 8 Replies

Subaru - Starting - Impreza :: 1995 - Turns Over Fine But Never Fully Starts Until Cools Off?

I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza that I have been nursing along for the past 14 years. Recently, if I drive for a decent length of time (~10 miles), turn the car off to go into a store, and then try to start it up again, it won't start. It turns over fine, but never fully starts. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will start back up again. The temperature gauge reads normal--between hot and cold. Is there another temperature sensor that might be malfunctioning, telling the car that the engine is too hot to start? Where/what is this called?

View 6 Replies

Sebring - Chrysler - Overheating :: Temp Gauge Starts To Climb Above Halfway Mark And Toward Danger Zone

Having an intermittent problem on my 2002 Chrysler Sebring LX (about 132,000 miles). Often I can drive around and everything is okay. However, it seems like every 11 days or so, the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark and toward the danger zone. Only once has it gotten all the way up to the red danger zone and illuminated the warning light, and that was the very first time. It was fortunate that this happened the exact moment I reached home and parked in my driveway.

When the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark, I've tried to turn on the heater to cool it down, but this doesn't work. The heater just blows cold air. So far I have been taking the following steps:

1) Stop driving and park the car for 10 minutes or more.
2) Fill the coolant tank under the hood with coolant. I'm putting in about half a gallon each time.
3) Continue driving.

After this process, the heater is again blowing warm air and the temperature gauge is staying at a safe level. It seems to persist for about 11 - 14 days then the cycle starts all over.

It happened last night following a drive of about 5 miles home from the gym. Since I had no more driving to do that day, I just parked it overnight to see if this was a fluke and if it would be necessary to add more coolant.

This morning I drove the same 5 miles. Temperature gauge stayed pretty low for about half the trip, but then rapidly shot up. I got to the gym before it reached the danger zone (it was probably about 3/4 of the way up). I parked for a little over an hour while I went inside to exercise. Then I again added half a gallon of coolant and drove home without problems.

The last time I had overheating issues, the coolant rapidly spilled out of the bottom and the overheating was not preventable. I got the radiator replaced. This was in October 2013. I've also tried some of that stop leak fluid. It didn't work, but I'm not so sure I used it correctly. I didn't flush the tank and I think I might have poured it in on a normal driving day (coolant pretty full).

View 19 Replies

Tires - Hyundai - Sonata :: Changing Tire / Wheel Size

I have a Hyundai Sonata w/ P215/55R17 tires.

I am almost due to get new tires and my husband says that we should switch the wheels and get regular tires, not the lower profile tires that were OEM w/ the vehicle. The current tires are expensive and regular tires would be less expensive in the long run. When I asked at the dealership 6 mos ago they said that it would not be good for the car and would adversely affect the performance. If I do change, what tire size (regular sidewall height) would be appropriate (and less expensive)to change to?

View 7 Replies

Acceleration - Repair :: Ford Expedition Slow To Accelerate / Strong Vibrations And Gas Smell

My 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.

The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).

View 10 Replies
Copyrights 2005-15 www.bigresource.org, All rights reserved