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Nissan - Exhaustsystems - Maxima :: 1997 - Loud Exhaust While Starting Up

So my Nissan emits a loud (way louder than normal) "vroom" when I start it up and then idles back. Also, sometimes the tach needle jumps high and then falls, sometimes almost seems like the car might turn off. I have a knock sensor code on and nothing else. I was due for state inspection and the guy told me that my exhaust was warped and said that it was too loud and I will fail the inspection (I think he meant on the noise level as he did not do any diagnostics.

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Diesel - Ford - Focus :: 2008 - Engine Consistently Shuts Down Around 2800 RPM

My '08 Ford Focus Diesel dies while accelerating on hills or under load. In third gear, around 2800 RPM the engine consistently shuts down. The engine continues to run until the fuel is exhausted (about 10 seconds). No warning lights come on and the radio, lights, etc. continue to function. Putting it in neutral and restarting the car consistently works.

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Dodge - Stratus :: Dash Lights For ABS And Traction Control Remained On While Driving

My uncle (school district mechanic) and I recently replaced the front brake pads and front rotors on my 2003 Dodge Stratus. Within the last couple weeks, the dash lights for my ABS and Traction Control have remained on while I'm driving. I have also noticed a grinding noise on the front, driver side wheel, similar to what I'd hear when I applied my brakes on an icy section of road. I am concerned that my brakes may fail. My uncle and I have not been able to figure out what the problem might be.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: New Transmission - Poor Acceleration

So I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?

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Toyota - Camry :: 2002 V6 - Stall / Check Engine Light Comes On Just Before Car Completely Stops

My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.

The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.

I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues

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Subaru - Outback - Fuel-economy :: What Is Causing MPG Drop And Power Loss

My 2001 L.L.Bean Edition H6-3.0 is losing power & MPG on the fwy. Sometimes it will feel like something is holding it back or dragging. I've checked the brake calipers and they're not sticking, changed the air filter, oil & filter, transmission fluid, and still cannot find the problem. I've overfilled the gas tank and read this can damage the charcoal canister. Will a saturated charcoal canister cause a drop in power and MPG? What should I check out next?

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Gmc - Sierra :: 1991 - Only Runs When Steering Wheel Is Turned To Left / Right

I just bought this nicely used 1991 GMC Sierra 1500 series pickup truck for $650. It started up and ran fine when I gave the seller the money - the few leaks in the break lines.

Easy fix right!

So my son (19 that knows it all) and I went and changed all the brake lines (made everything one size 3/8 line.) Filled it up with break fluid and started the truck. I had my so pumping the breaks and holding them (his first time) I bled the far rear (passenger side) then I had him turn the steering wheel to the right so I could bleed the front driver side.

He turned, and turned and turned until the engine died.

Now the truck only runs when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right or all the way to the left.

Going to pull the codes to see what the heck is going on....

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Dodge - Ram - 2500 :: 2002 - Slight Vibration Comes On At 60 Mph

2002 Dodge Diesel PU ... At about 125000 miles a slight vibration appeared and has progressively gotten worse. Now at 177000 it comes on at 60 mph and is pretty bad. I've replaced tires, shocks, hub bearings, u-joints and locator bars, all to no avail. The tires show no unusual wear and the drive shaft(s) u-joints appear good. I'm not the only one with this problem but Dodge denies any knowledge of it's occurrence.

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Oldsmobile - Cutlass :: 1999 - Creaking Sound Coming From Back End?

1999 Olds Cutlass, 140k miles. When going over uneven pavement, up inclines or over bumps, the car makes a creaking sound, like a cross between stepping on an old floorboard and basketball sneakers scuffing the court. It sounds and (feels?) like its coming from the back end, but I do know the front left wheel bearing needs replacement. I recently had a right front caliper replaced after a friend blew out the tire and crunched the rim on a bad pothole. It went a good 20 miles, give or take, on a donut in between repairs.

I know this is not good for the alignment of the car. Trust me, I did not approve this usage. Along with the creaking is a sound similar to bottoming out, although it happens when going over bumps, and I know for a fact nothing is truly bottoming out. It's going into the mechanics as soon as I get to a vacation day from work, in the meantime, is it an issue that needs to be fixed before a drive another mile, or can it wait a few days? My average usage of the car is about 20 miles/day. What it might be? I have a hard time changing my own oil, but my research suggests maybe tire rods, ball joints, arm bushings? Or even worse, gulp struts?

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Subaru - Outback :: 2008 - Gauge Is Showing That Engine Is Hot But Actually Not Overheating

I have a 2008 Subaru Outback that is telling me that it is overheating, the gauge is showing me that the engine is as hot as it could possibly get. However, its not actually overheating. It happened after a 15 hour day of driving from Cali to Colorado on 2 lane highways. In the morning it took 6 tries to get started, just sounded like maybe there wasn't enough gas or something to get it going and if I fluttered the gas pedal the car threatened to quit on me. Since that moment the temperature gauge has been stuck on high, the check engine light is on, the cruise control is disabled and flashing on the dash, and the AC doesn't work. I have turned the car off several times since the incident and it starts up just fine so far but the gauge and lights are still on. ......

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