My wife and I just bought a used 2006 Honda Civic LX with about 90K miles. It's going through about 1qt of oil every 500 miles. No puddles or oil leaks on the driveway and the engine is clean of leaking oil. What could be causing this? Could this be attributed to a crack in the engine block? Cracked blocks are known to be a problem with this model and year and the subject of a tech note by Honda and they have extended the warranty to 8 years because of it. Have others had this problem? The car was serviced by a local dealer, Boch Honda in MA, by the previous owner and has had the oil changed every 3K miles. I have all the documentation.
View 19 RepliesI have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
My Outback gets the DTs in the steering wheel. 2003 with 300K highway miles. New tie-rods, brakes, brake master cylinder, alignment & balance (all from great shop with great rep) have failed to eliminate the problem. It comes on suddenly at highway speeds, usually in cold weather (below 20); but not necessarily in snowy conditions. Slowing down to 30/20 mph does not stop the shudder (though it slows and reveals itself as a fierce twitch to the right). Eventually the shudder is accompanied by a rhythmic scraping sound somewhere in the left front wheel well, which maybe is there all along but inaudible at higher speeds.
View 5 RepliesI bought Akebono cermaic pads for my GS 350 AWD which I thought were high quality good fitment pads as they even advertise them on tirerack. Now I am not really impressed. After about a month every time I pull out of my garage in the morning they click and squeal (squeak).
The scenario: After I come home from work at night I pull into my driveway and park in the garage. The pads are already seated in the forward position from driveing forward and parking. Then in the morning I go and back up in reverse to pull out, I tap the brakes to stop and shift into drive to pull forward; at the moment I depress the break pedal the two front rotors simultaneously click and sometimes squeal. Sometimes when I get in my car at the transit center in front of everyone this happens.
Is there a shim kit or something I can add to the brake pads to sit in between the pads and rotors to get them to stop moving. I know that there not moving a lot but whatever play they have is causing me brake pad buyers remorse.
I went with these Akebono ceramic because they dust much less then stock semi-metallic pads. Becuase I had them on my Audi and they didnt dust nearly as much as the stock set. But once and while they too would click in this situation but nearly as much as now in my Lex.
My 2013 Sonic has died three times this week. After charging, the car runs fine, and will start up another 5-6 times with no problem. I can even turn the car off immediately after disconnecting jumper cables, and it will turn back on. I took it to Autozone to be tested yesterday, and my battery, alternator, and starter passed. (Alternator is only about 10/11 mos old. Battery and starter have never been replaced) When the battery is dead, I hear a rapid clicking sound, the interior lights are dim, and headlights wont work, Sometimes the dash lights come on, other times they don't.
Some other issues that have been going on which may or may not be related are, catalytic converter and fuel solenoid valve are faulty, and will be replaced this week. Also my car window will go down but will not come up, (no noise when attempting to roll up the window, so i don't think its off track) and the windshield wiper squirts the washer liquid under the hood, and not on the window. (Havent gotten to diagnose those issues yet).
2000 Crown Victoria, 186K miles
I have to park on the street at my house, and it's a decent enough hill. I always park facing down the hill and I'm in the habit of turning the wheels towards the curb. Just recently I was parking and in neutral, easing the car's weight onto the parking brake and I heard a pop of some sort, and now my parking brake is basically non-functional. I don't think I lost any cables as none of them are hanging loose under the car, but I won't know until I get the rear rotors off and can inspect things. I know at least one other CV owner who went to check his parking brakes and the shoe linings had separated from the backing plates, but all of that's not really my question.
As of now I have to park on the street with one of the wheels firmly against the curb to hold the car in place (in this case, driver's front wheel). Am I going to mess up the tire on that wheel by doing this? There are no ill effects to this point, and maybe it's okay if only for some hours at a time and not days/weeks. What do you think?
When parking on an incline, say my driveway which is pretty steep, I engage my emergency brake. When I release the brake I get a creaking noise as I put it in reverse to back out of the driveway.Two questions is using the emergency brake really going to keep my car from rolling back down the driveway and does the creaking noise mean the emergency or rear brakes are being stressed by holding the car in an incline for several hours each day?
I really worry some days I am going to walk outside and my car will be in the neighbor's yard.
I have a 2012 azera, and noticed this a/c issue I have had. Recently when driving, I have notice the a/c intermittently change speeds and blow faster when I am at a stoplight or slowing down.
View 29 RepliesMy son has a 1963 Mercury Comet with a 170 straight 6 and automatic trans. Originally it would die when he made a sharp left. We fixed that by rebuilding the carb and putting in a new float. Then we found that the back brakes weren't working and had to replace a clogged brake line. Now for the weird problem. Whenever he brakes it pulls slightly left and the motor almost dies. If he anticipates the pull and steers right the car keeps running beautifully. I am assuming that the pull is probably caused by not getting all of the air out of the brake lines, but why does the car almost die unless he steers right when braking? The car does not die anymore when he makes left turns. These are non power hydraulic single cylinder brakes so there is no vacuum connection involved. The fuel filter and pump have been replaced.
View 10 RepliesWe have a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder (automatic) that is having trouble starting. We can't find a pattern to when it starts and when it doesn't start so we can't diagnose the problem. When it doesn't start, here's what happens: turning the key, you can hear one soft click. Then nothing. After several or many turns of the key (and the same single click), it finally "catches" and starts. Two weeks ago, the car would not start at all. Even the following day, it wouldn't start. The lights and radio did work. We tried a jump-start and it surprisingly started right up. We immediately replaced the battery, but the problems resumed. The following have been replaced since the problems began: starter, ignition switch, battery, transmission, and the horn for the alarm has been bypassed. Note: with the old battery back in, it does work.
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