My wife drives a V-10 Ford Excursion. She drives tons of short trips (5 - 10 min)approx 600 to 700 miles per month. Is this type of driving worse for a large engine and more tolerated by a smaller V-8 or V-6? Her rig has 100,000mi. I use Mobil 1 and use a 7500 OCI.
View 12 RepliesCar info:1997 Mercedes E420, ~186,000 miles Check engine electronics light always on because of unrelated evaporation censor issue. Having issues with my car, and my mechanic is a little stumped.
Story: Maybe in the last week or two, noticed the faintest flutter of the engine when stopped at red lights. Was faint, seemed like no big deal. This last Friday, had been driving 45mph for 3-5 minutes (cool day). Stopped at red light, engine freaks. Got intermittent revving and lurching of whole car. "Acc.skid control" warning light comes off. I pull over in a fast food parking lot, turn car off, calm down cuz I was freaked out by aggressive lurching. Pulled over maybe 20 minutes. I decide to drive to my mechanic who happened to be nearby. Turn car on, and it stalls four times, in the time it took me to back out of the parking space I was in and get to the driveway.
Where things get interesting:Mechanic replaced "failing mass air intake sensor". Car seems 95% fixed...I go to pick t up today, and the same issue seems to be happening, but way less dramatic. Did a ride-along to show mechanic the issue (because they couldn't replicate it), and he said: Seems like the engine doesn't know what level to idle at, and hesitates to shift gears. Issues appear more when driving slow. This has only been an issue since Friday. Never noticed ANY other signs of transmission issues. He says he's not sure what to do, and will try checking the transmission fluid and clean the throttle body.
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
A year ago I replaced radiator, long job in the winter in an unheated garage. After radiator was successfully replaced Air bag warning light started to come on intermittently. More so in cold weather, less so as it warms up. I know you have to be very careful working on air bag system, disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. I have heard that this is a known problem on Jeeps, this is a 1999 Grand Cherokee with 150,000 miles. I think ti ha something to do with connector in a dash, what can I do, a car is on its last legs, will not spend money on a dealer to fix, ripped off too often during life of car. I am afraid it will not pass an Ill environmental test (not related to pollution control) I suspect it is setting a trouble code but have not checked as of yet, hasn't warmed up in Illinois yet this year.
View 2 RepliesI have a horrendous squealing noise coming from one of my rear wheels. Sounds bad at low speeds, changes frequency to higher pitch when going faster. The sound isn't constant (some times nothing), other times loud as hell. Sometimes gets worse when turning, then nothing when straightened out. When breaking, sometimes the sound gets worse, then goes away. It doesn't sound like a bad wheel bearing (had one go before- more of a growly noise). This sound is too high pitched. Also, checked the brake pads (plenty of life left), and rotors are good too.
View 5 RepliesMy wife's 2002 Jeep GC has just started having the problem of stalling at speed. Happens without warning and will start back up with out any signs of trouble. No CEL. Car has a 6 cylinder with 130k miles and is well maintained. Have been reading around this forum and have seen a few people post similar issues. I will look at the connection at the ECU tomorrow. Is this a common area of trouble?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback S. it has 99008 miles on it and while trying to drive up my drive way (which is covered in ice and snow) I got stuck and before I realized I was stuck my check engine light was flashing. As soon as I stopped the car the light turned off. I was wondering what I should do.
View 4 Replies98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
we just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
View 2 RepliesWhen I fill my gas tank (in other words, until the pump clicks off on its own) the dashboard gas tank gauge is at only at about 3/4 full. Itdoesn't seem to be the type of needle that shleps its way up after a few minutes. So I continue filling on my own until I have as close to a full tank as I can get without any overspill. What's up with that?
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