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Civic - Honda :: 2003 - Hesitate Once Or Twice After Cold Start
I have a 2003 civic (automatic) with 72000 miles on it. It recently began hesitating from a cold start. It will hesitate once or twice, I stop, and after that it is fine for the rest of the drive. Since it is sporadic, it's hard for the mechanics to see what is going on. I took it to one mechanic who cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle plates, flushed the transmission fluid, and replaced the spark plugs. He also put a note on the bill that the transmission may need to be rebuilt soon, although he didn't mention that when he told us what he did. The car drove fine for about three weeks after that, and then it started hesitating daily.
I took it into another mechanic who was able to see the problem for himself when I left the car overnight. He scanned it for error codes, but didn't find anything. He said he checked all connections and wiring and cleaned the wiring but that was all he could do. He said he thought it was a bad O2 sensor, but because the check engine light isn't on, he can't do anything. Meanwhile, he said I should keep driving it in hopes that it will get worse so they can figure it out. I'm worried that I may be causing long term damage, and that I may get stuck in the middle of an intersection without power. Is there anything they didn't check that they should have? Should I take it to another mechanic?
Vanagon - Volkswagen :: 1991 - Replacing The Starter?
1991 Vanagon GL-Ok, first off my gas gauge was inoperable so we traced it down to the sending unit. Disconnected the battery, drained the tank, dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit and all the fuel lines, seals, etc. In the meantime we also replaced the starter while it was up. Gassed her up, tried to start it. Nothing. Lifted it up again, checked the starter unit to see if it was getting a current, no current. Went to the fuse box, tested the fuses, all is good. Went to the battery and tested it, it was producing a current. Thought we might have moved, hit, loosen something when putting the gas tank back in so we lowered the tank to see if there was anything loose, disconnected, etc. Nothing. Reinstalled the tank. Went to the engine compartment and tested the alternator, no juice. Damn. Traced the wiring from the battery to the engine and test the battery cable, no juice in the harness by the gas tank. Went to the front of the van, took out the drivers headlight and tested the lines there. There is a long green object like a capacitor or something with three wired running to it, tested it no juice flowing through it. Tested a connection before the long green object and there is juice there. Is it the long green thing? Do I need to call in the Witches of Warwick to de-demonize it?
View 6 RepliesPontiac - Grandprix :: Cannot Open Door From Inside / Outside
I took of the handle panel on the exterior of the car to adjust the rod so the door would open easier. NOW THE DOOR WONT OPEN AT ALL!
Its a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE.
I've tried removing the door panel from the inside, but it seems useless because the retarded vertical handles cant even be accessed from the door panel.
Doors - Chevrolet - Blazer :: Alternately Blowing Hot Then Cold With Creaking Noise During Transitions
Auto facts: 2000 Blazer, Mileage: 196,000 Engine: V6, 4.3L Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4WD, Single climate control
Recently had my AC compressor assembly replaced, renewed accumulator/receiver drier, orifice tube, recharge, etc. The AC was cooling well below par after the repairs. Then is started alternately blowing hot (12 sec), cool (3 sec), etc. with a "spooky" creaking noise coming from within the middle dash during each transition (blend door?).
The mechanic charged the system again and agrees there is a refrigerant leak "somewhere" to account for the marginal cooling capability but the dye put into the system before the repair is not showing up anywhere that he can see (so far, having it checked again today). So, are these 2 separate issues? What are the steps of diagnosis and repair possibilities?
Ford - Explorer :: 2005 V6 Getting 20 - 21 MPG On Highway
I have a 2005 Ford Sport Trac that was getting 15 MPG on the highway so I decided to give it a new set of plugs to see if it would work. Wrong now I get 13MPG on the highway and by all topics I have looked at I should be getting 20-21 MPG highway. It is a V6 with 141,000 miles on it.
View 6 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2002 - Check Engine Light Is On?
Engine light came on two weeks ago. Had the code read at Advance Auto Parts. Code = P0420. The only performance issue was that it stalled when I started it the other day for the first time since I bought it last fall. Are there any other clues to tell what it could mean (catalytic converter vs. 02 sensor vs. anything else)? Is it really worth trying some kind of catalytic converter cleaner product?
View 1 RepliesVolvo - 240 :: 1990 Wagon Sounds Like A Cat In A Tunnel When Turning Right And Accelerating At The Same Time
It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
Jeep - Speedometer - Electrical-wiring - Liberty :: Warning Lights Started To Flicker On And Off When Headlights Turned On
While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
Coolant - Chevrolet - Leaks - Cobalt :: 2008 - Plastic Reservoir Is Empty
I've got an '08 Cobalt. There is a large leak in my coolant system. The plastic reservoir is empty and if I add coolant and start the engine it all gushes out of a hole in a piece of plastic on the side of the radiator. Can I drive it to the shop if I watch the engine temperature or should I have it towed? Is the engine temperature measurement affected by the lack of coolant?
View 6 RepliesAudi - A4 :: 2003 - AC Stopped Working / Econ Button Couldn't Be Switched Off
Last summer, driving my 2003 Audi A4, my A/C suddenly stopped working, and the "econ" button couldn't be switched off. I took it to my mechanic, who said that a loose screw had blown a hole through my A/C compressor (image attached). Not only was my A/C not working, but I had to pay $1400 right then and there to get a new compressor installed. As I understand it, the compressor in my car is run by the timing belt and if it jammed, it could ruin the engine. So I paid up, but still didn't get have the A/C fixed.
My mechanic told me that the hole blown through the compressor had sent shards of aluminum throughout the A/C system. So to fix the A/C, he'd have to flush the whole system and replace parts throughout the car... probably adding up to north of $3,000. Definitely not worth it, considering the total value of the car.
Any second opinions? Is there an easier way to flush the A/C system? As far as I understand, with my new compressor, all the parts of my A/C system work fine, but I just gotta get all the aluminum shards out.