I drive a manual 2001 Hyundai Tiburon. I tried to take it on the expressway today and it took a long time for the RPMs to get high enough that I could shift gears. It seems to want to hover at about 2000. When I finally got into 5th gear, it would only go about 50-55mph with the pedal to the floor. When I turned off the AC, though, it would go about 70mph, but it lost speed quickly on hills and took a long time to regain it. I am not sure, but it seems like the gas mileage was substantially worse than it normally is. I didn't notice any new noises or smells or shakes or anything like that. The car is just really lagging and my mechanic is closed for the night. I would like to at least have a guess what it is so I don't have to worry about it all night.
View 5 RepliesFor several months I would intermittently get a message saying "Bulb failure, Low beam". It would go off and not reappear for a few weeks and then it got to where the message would come on and after a few hours it would go off and then reappear a few days later. Since the time frame was getting shorter and shorter between message appearances I decided it needed to be looked at.
The Volvo dealer just replaced the light bulb. After about a week, the message reappeared.
Long story short, I had the right headlight ballast (headlight igniter) replaced and a new ($230.00) right side Xenon bulb replaced. Neither of these actions has corrected the problem, although the mechanic that did the work said he did a scan on all systems and everything in the car was in good shape. I left his shop and about 6 blocks down the street, the message reappeared.
Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
View 1 RepliesIn the 2007 Touareg V6 Automatic, directly at the bottom of the shifter pole, under the middle counsel plastic there is a black piece of plastic that recoils and unfolds as you shift gears what is that and where can I find that little piece of plastic
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Explorer V8 4 wheel drive. Yesterday I was on the way home from a 2 hour drive and was on the expressway at a complete stop on a downhill grade. When I hit the gas, the car started lurching - it would shoot forward, then slow down, then shoot forward, then slow down.
I got the car to the side of the road and called a tow truck. Just to test - while I was waiting for the truck I put the car in neutral and even though I was on a steep downhill grade, it wouldn't roll at all. When I put it in drive - it wouldn't go initially until I had to put a decent amount of pressure on the gas pedal. I reminded me a being at a speed bump that you couldn't idle over and have to give the car some gas to power it up over the bump.
When the tow truck got there - I watched the driver drive the Explorer up onto the bed of the tow truck. What I noticed was this:
The left front tire was completely locked when he was hitting the gas. But when he gave it enough gas, the right tire that was working would push the car forward while the left tire remained locked creating friction on the pavement but the car was still moving forward from the other wheel.
Then after 3 or 4 feet - the left tire would unlock/release and start to rotate - causing the car to suddenly lurch forward. But then after another few few it would lock again. Then release again.
The thing I found odd was that when the driver later reversed the car down off the truck - the left front wheel worked just fine. So the car works perfectly in reverse, but in drive the left wheel locks then releases then locks then releases.
So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
View 53 RepliesMy low tire light is on my 2009 VW Sportwagen SE 2.5. The tires are inflated properly even the spare tire and yet the light is still on.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 Honda civic LX 4 cyl. There is an oily residue in the coolant reservoir an on the fill tube but when the radiator is opened the coolant is clean. The car is using oil but not running rough or hot. There is no tailpipe smoke or evidence of leakage. I am planning to do a compression check and look at the plugs.
View 5 RepliesHave been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
How I could take my ford explorer 2002 in to the shop to replace the radiator and come out with transmission fluid leaking. The mechanic said it is some kind of hose but it wasn't leaking before and after I drive I can see it dripping out. I'm just not sure if they messed up something. Unfortunately my husband is overseas and cannot check it.
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