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Mitsubishi - Galant :: 2007 - Loud Grinding Noise From Front Brakes
Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
View 7 RepliesDodge - Ram :: Pedal Hesitates Before Moving When Brakes Applied
A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
Civic - Honda :: 1998 - Hesitation For About 3 - 5 Seconds Before Cranking
My Honda Civic 98 starts funny. It will hesitate about 3-5 seconds before cranking and sometimes after starting the starter will grind momentarily before letting go.
View 5 RepliesNissan - Belts - Airconditioning :: 1994 - Engine Down Significantly When At Idle?
My 1994 Nissan Altima is a great little car with an unknown number of miles, though my best estimate is around 150k. Every time the air conditioner compressor kicks in it drags the engine down significantly when at idle, and often causes the belt to squeal. The squeal is most notable while accelerating. My question is, since the belt is relatively new do I have a tensioner problem, a compressor problem, or something else?
View 4 RepliesChevrolet - S-10 :: 1969 - Temp Gauge Reads Hot All The Time After Grounded The Sender Wire To Engine?
I have a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. One of its problems is the temperature gauge was not reading. I grounded the sender wire to the engine block to deterimine if the sender was bad, and ever since the gauge reads hot all the time, even with the ignition off. Could I have fried the gauge?
View 2 RepliesFord Excursion :: Burning Smell From Rear Driver Side Wheel
After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
View 13 RepliesToyota - 4Runner :: 1997 - Randomly Stalling At Stop Light
I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 6 cylinder with 188,000 miles. I love my car, it's treated me well over the years. About 2 months ago it started stalling at stop lights, etc. Basically, any time I came to a stop and it was idling while in gear. I start it right back up and when my foot's on the gas, it doesn't stall. After 10 times or so I learned that if I took it out of gear the RPMs went up a little and it didn't stall. About 2 weeks later the "check engine" like went on so I figured, now it's time to take it somewhere. So I took it to a mechanic that I've been to before and trusted (here in San Francisco) and he said, "oh.. it's probably just an idle adjustment" so I think, great, no big deal.
After a few days he said wasn't the idle and that after testing he found that all 6 cylinders were randomly misfiring. So he needed to change the spark plugs cause they were down to a bare nub. I figured, ok, it's about time anyway. He said it could also be the ignitor?, he didn't sound 100% positive, but told me there's probably something wrong with it since it's pretty old too and that's all he could think of. So he changed all 6 spark plugs and the ingintor and the engine light was still on. It was stalling less frequently, but still randomly stalling.
He then said he was going to have his Toyota specialist friend look at it. His friend couldn't figure out what was wrong either. Then he sent to to the Toyota dealer, they checked everything they could think of, but couldn't diagnose the real cause either. Apparently they even checked the "Dynamic Balancer"? I'm not even sure my car has one of those. They might as well have told me it needed a new agonculator (totally made up word) for all I knew. So they had my car for 3 weeks and finally I said, enough is enough, these guys can't figure it out. After 3 weeks of hearing how much money they spent on other people to figure out it, I finally said, let's stop the bleeding. The car still runs and doesn't stall that much. The last thing they tried was 2 series of a fuel injection flush (decarbonize)? So they did that with not a whole lot of improvement. They also managed to run all the gas out of my car and by the time I picked it up, the fuel light was on and I took it immediately to a gas station. No joke, they burned about 1/2 tank of gas and didn't refill it.
After 3 weeks and $1000, they come up with "we don't know what's wrong, but use Premium gas and it might fix itself". In the end they told me they were down to only one misfire, cylider #4. Also, the "check engine" light is still on. Since I've gotten it back it hasn't stalled, so there's an improvement. But I'm no closer to figuring out what's wrong that's keeping the check engine light on. Needless to say, I'm not taking it back to these guys.
Eclipse - Pump - Clutches :: Hydraulic Clutch Soft Pedal
We have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse with a hydraulic clutch. The pedal is very soft in the morning and requires a good bit of pumping the pedal to get good pressure. I know the system needs to be bled. Does this mean one of the cylinders is bad? I have added a little bit of fluid over the last year- maybe 2 or 3 ounces total. Right now the fluid level seems fine but it still needs to be pumped before driving.
View 7 RepliesMaintenance / Repair :: Headlights Not Working After Oil Change And Tires Rotated
I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
View 19 RepliesChevrolet - Camaro :: 2000 - Catalytic Converter Went Out
I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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