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Subaru - Legacy :: 1998 - Intermittent / Delayed Starting After Several Tries Of Turning The Switch
'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
Civic - Honda :: 2002 - AC Stay On For About Ten Minutes And Then Stopping Blowing Cold Air
I have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
View 2 RepliesDodge - Challenger :: 2010 - Check Engine Light Came On / Service Update Code
I recently crossed 30,000 miles on my Challenger SE and the Check engine light came on. First time at dealer they just ran diagnostics and said it was a "service update" code that they ran and turned off the light. They said this explained why it was running very rough on idle. When the light came back on, I took it to another mechanic and they got the same code, but said one of the cylinders was misfiring. Back at Dodge, they are now replacing the cylinder today under warranty. My question is: with a car this young, what would cause this to occur, and how can I take steps to protect the new cylinder and prevent this for happening again?
View 17 RepliesToyota - 4runner :: 2000 - Transmission Slip From Warm Stop
My 2000 4Runner will start slipping just after acceleration from a stop only after having driven it for about 5 minutes. I really don't think it's anything major because I've always been nice to the transmission and don't drive like a wild child.
View 11 RepliesMercury - Transmissions - Mariner :: 2011 - Lurching At About 20 Mph
We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
Cadillac - Noises - Transmissions :: Clunking Sound When Doing A Quick Start
When I make a quick start I get a clunk kind of sound that appears to be from the area near the transmission shift lever on the console between the seats. If I really do a jack rabbit start, it will clunk repeatedly until I let up on the gas or the car gets up to speed.
Is this a broken Engine or Transmission mount? 2005 Cadillac SRX....
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1986 - Alternator Intermittent Overvoltage
86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
Ford - Clubwagon :: Synthetic Oil Can Expose Leaks
From what I've read here Synthetic oil can expose leaks in an older engine oil because of greater cleaning properties that removes sludge build up. I bought my Ford E350 110K, 2 months ago and the oil was changed at that time. I've put 2K on it since and the oil is still very clear on the dipstick but not quite to the full mark. Would the still clear looking oil indicate a well maintained engine and a probable lack of sludge? Would it therefore be safe to change to Mobil 1 or similar product?
View 3 RepliesSubaru :: 2006 - Fixing CEL Code P0304?
2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L AT non-turbo
I changed the oil and oil filter; replaced the air filter (Fram), and replaced the alternator and a/c belts. I also got a full tank of gas at Sam's Club, I was nearly empty. I've gotten gas plenty of times there, before.
Next day, the CEL comes on. It's a P0304 code. (Cruise control light is flashing, too.) Engine stumbles and runs rough when cold; idles fine when warm, runs OK, but not the same, when warm. CEL is steady, which is "not bad" but I can make it flash if I hit the accelerator while the engine is cold. Resetting the computer by disconnecting the hot battery terminal didn't work; CEL came on again two days later and symptoms remained.
I buy some MAF cleaner (CRC) and use it; MAF was pretty dirty on the upstream side, actually.
I'm going to change the plugs and wires (they need it, anyway) and I've ordered a new ignition coil, which I'll also switch out.
I've also ordered the gasket for the throttle body, which I'll take apart and clean once that comes in. Last step is to order replacement O2 sensors.
I'm 99% certain there's nothing wrong with the engine, in terms of rings, valves, pistons, etc. I think I'm covering all the bases in addressing this myself. I'm on a limited budget so I'm doing all the labor myself and ordering non-OEM parts on-line, after researching to make sure the parts have a good reputations, fit, etc. (Yes, that's all a big FU to Subaru service for being over-priced but besides being relatively poor I also enjoy doing this stuff.)
Lexus IS350 :: 2006 - Brakes Horrifying Screeching Noise
I have a 2006 Lexus is350 that has the rather terrible high metallic oem brake pads. The rotors and pads are in great condition, however they produce the most horrific ear piercing screech that can be heard for miles and I've even had people get out of their cars at stop lights to tell me my brakes are really bad. Like I didn't know... So, I've been researching replacement parts while I suck up the fact that I'm probably going to be dropping hundreds of dollars on a cosmetic issue, but it's really so terrible I think I may have to break up with my car if I don't fix it soon.
I've pretty much decided on not skimping, because from all that I've read it seems that given the known issues with the IS line's brakes they really need high quality ceramic and low dust pads. I've been reading a lot of good things about ebc redstuff pads, as well as some good things about akebono premium pads. I also am really confused about what to look for in a rotor.
Lastly, should I do the replacement myself? I'm kind of a novice at diy car repair, in my old (86) volvo I did most of the maintenance and repair myself, but I never had to do brakes or any of the other big things. Just littler things like power steering fluid reservoir, throttle hose, water pump and a few other things. Would I be in over my head replacing my brakes myself? They are just so vital it freaks me out a little bit if I don't do it right things will go terribly for me...