My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
My 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE (Automatic, 69,400 miles) makes a grinding noise when I start to accelerate from 40 mph. I sometimes hear a noise that sounds like an airplane wheel being activated when I'm driving at lower speeds driving around town. Could this be the transmission? Who should I take the car to?
View 7 Replies,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
View 5 Replies2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
View 1 RepliesI love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
View 1 Repliesi have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
View 8 RepliesThe strangest thing happened to me on the way home yesterday from work. I was driving about 110 all the way home on a highway and took an exit to my local area when i noticed as i approached the ramp i wasn't able to shift into any gears. It just felt like there was something blocking me, like a wall of rubber or something. I stopped the car on the side of the road, unsure what was going on. While the car was on and my foot on the clutch, i am able to move into all gears perfectly fine but its when i start moving i cannot go into the others. Strange. I was able to force it into second gear from first but it sounded like two plates or discs sort of sliding around on each other..maybe that was my imagination but i stopped and didn't proceed further.
While i was sitting waiting for the tow truck, i remember that the last few months it has been getting harder and harder to get into gears while driving. I would be driving and would have some resistance to get into the pocket. This progressively got worse and i guess lead to this point where i am unable to get anywhere.
First thing i thought was the transmission, but i am able to go forward in first and reverse okay and the clutch pedal was not to the floor. The clutch was recently changed, approx 20k ago.
Could it be something easy to fix? Perhaps the clutch cable has stretched out and it is not pulling me far enough into the gears making it impossible to shift. Maybe the master or slave clutch cylinder have failed? I am not sure at all!
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
View 7 RepliesCar Make/Model: 2001 Hyundai Elantra
So, in order to access the parking garage at work, free of charge, I MUST swipe my ID badge upon entering and exiting. That requires lowering my driver window (front left window) and extending my hand out. So, I pressed the switch downward to roll the window down, and I heard a small pop or click and all the sudden the switch was stuck in the downward position and my window would just roll all the way down. I would flick it upward, the window goes up, but then it retakes its downward position. I have to apply my window lock to keep it upward and sometimes I have to hold the switch up and immediately turn my car off to keep the window from rolling back down.
The window rolls up and down like it normally would. There is no slowness or delay.....the motion still seems pretty smooth.
Questions:
What are the possible problems and solutions?
How much to fix it, if I choose to?
I have had a vibration when idling, I replaced the rear engine mount which fixed that, but I still have a slight clunk when I take off.
View 4 RepliesMy daughters 2005 Elantra has a nasty vibration when you accelerate. When you reach 45-50 and press the gas pedal you can feel the vibration in your feet. The steering wheel does not vibrate at all. Once you let off the gas it stops immediately. Based on this I'm leaning toward a motor mount or maybe all of them.
View 7 RepliesMy daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
View 2 RepliesMy car seems to make a tick tick tick sound coming from the left front wheel well, but it only occurs when I make right turns. Not left or when driving straight. Could this be a bad cv joint or wheel bearing? Again, only happens when making right turns and I believe at any speed and the sound interval I believe is shorter (faster tick tick) at higher speeds. Also, the vehicle is a 2001 manual transmission and pressing the clutch I believe (cant confirm) stops or slows the sound.
View 4 Replies2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Elantra gt manual that I am having some trouble with. When I first get in the car to drive it after it has sat for any period of time it seems to catch the clutch higher before I start rolling, and once I start moving I get a fairly concerning clunk. I have had this issue for a while, and due to an unrelated issue I have recently swapped out the master and slave cylinder, and the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all have less then 15k miles on them. After I start driving I do not get a clunk, even if stopped at a light and I have to shift to first and start moving again.
View 1 RepliesMine is 2006 with 130k miles. Just replaced fuel filter, air filter, cleaned air flow sensor and cleaned the injectors. The car still feels slow and it seems to eat more fuel than before. The spark plugs and the wires seems to be ok. No warning or error on dash is displayed.
When push the accelerator it takes a while to respond starting from stop position, and when the car is moving and try go faster it feels like lazy so I have remove the feet of the pedal and push it again so it respond quickly.