Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Hyundai Starts When It Wants Too
Dec 1, 2015
I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
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I love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
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i have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
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The strangest thing happened to me on the way home yesterday from work. I was driving about 110 all the way home on a highway and took an exit to my local area when i noticed as i approached the ramp i wasn't able to shift into any gears. It just felt like there was something blocking me, like a wall of rubber or something. I stopped the car on the side of the road, unsure what was going on. While the car was on and my foot on the clutch, i am able to move into all gears perfectly fine but its when i start moving i cannot go into the others. Strange. I was able to force it into second gear from first but it sounded like two plates or discs sort of sliding around on each other..maybe that was my imagination but i stopped and didn't proceed further.
While i was sitting waiting for the tow truck, i remember that the last few months it has been getting harder and harder to get into gears while driving. I would be driving and would have some resistance to get into the pocket. This progressively got worse and i guess lead to this point where i am unable to get anywhere.
First thing i thought was the transmission, but i am able to go forward in first and reverse okay and the clutch pedal was not to the floor. The clutch was recently changed, approx 20k ago.
Could it be something easy to fix? Perhaps the clutch cable has stretched out and it is not pulling me far enough into the gears making it impossible to shift. Maybe the master or slave clutch cylinder have failed? I am not sure at all!
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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Car Make/Model: 2001 Hyundai Elantra
So, in order to access the parking garage at work, free of charge, I MUST swipe my ID badge upon entering and exiting. That requires lowering my driver window (front left window) and extending my hand out. So, I pressed the switch downward to roll the window down, and I heard a small pop or click and all the sudden the switch was stuck in the downward position and my window would just roll all the way down. I would flick it upward, the window goes up, but then it retakes its downward position. I have to apply my window lock to keep it upward and sometimes I have to hold the switch up and immediately turn my car off to keep the window from rolling back down.
The window rolls up and down like it normally would. There is no slowness or delay.....the motion still seems pretty smooth.
Questions:
What are the possible problems and solutions?
How much to fix it, if I choose to?
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My daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
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My car seems to make a tick tick tick sound coming from the left front wheel well, but it only occurs when I make right turns. Not left or when driving straight. Could this be a bad cv joint or wheel bearing? Again, only happens when making right turns and I believe at any speed and the sound interval I believe is shorter (faster tick tick) at higher speeds. Also, the vehicle is a 2001 manual transmission and pressing the clutch I believe (cant confirm) stops or slows the sound.
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The car has been sitting since last March (11 months). I have 3/4 tank of gas. The starter turns and the car almost starts. I suspect old gas is the problem because it sounds as if it wants to start and the gas is old. Could it be the injectors are clogged? If so, is there a way I can clean these myself? Or maybe another diagnosis?
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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My 2002 Hyd Elnta GT began making a rubbing type noise it begins about 20 mph and is loudest @ 40 mph I noticed when I make a curve to the right at high speeds it stops but I can still hear like something is still rubbing buts it's a smooth type rubbing sound. When I'm going straight the rubbing is loud like a rib rubbing but when in a curve it's a soft rubbing noise like it's rubbing something smooth.
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Elantra has set for a couple months. Wife totaled her other car so is gonna start driving this again. Well any ways wen the car sets and idles it starts to overheat. When driving it never gets hot. New thermostat and fluids...
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I have an 03 Elantra with a slight hum coming from the front left wheel area. It starts after 35 mph, does not seem to get louder as speed increases. I have about 3500 miles on Pirelli P6 plus 195 60 15 tires all at 35 psi, front brakes are new, cv boots are not cracked or torn and I do not notice any abnormal heat coming from front left hub(wheel) bearing area.
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I bought a 2009 Hyundai Accent used at 110.000Km. I've only been driving it for 3 weeks and today I went to start the car and it turned over and died right away. It did this a couple of times then it finally started fine and I was able to drive it. What it could be?
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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After I fill my 6 cyl 2004 Hyundai Sonata (280,000 km), the engines starts, then stalls. I can only get it to work by keeping the accelerator pushed to ensure sufficient rpm's. If I remove my foot from the accelerator, the rpm's drop to zero.With the engine revving, I put the car in drive and 'lurch' away from the pump. After that, everything is fine. It starts up properly … until the next fill. My mechanic is mystified and I am frustrated.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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So about 6 months ago I got new brakes on my car (2009 Hyundai Elantra). It was done by a independent repair shop. A few weeks later the brakes started making really weird noises, so I took it back to the shop and they took a look at them and they said everything seemed to be fine. So the next couple weeks there was no noise, but after a month or so the same thing happened again, I took them back to the shop they said everything looked fine and the noise stopped once again, but after a couple months later this happened again! and its been frustrating.
So when I took it to the dealership for oil change, I asked the guy to check the brakes for me and he said everything looked good, but if I had them changed in an independent repair shop they probably put generic ones which don't have some kind of lubricant that keeps them from making noises, that this happens sometimes, and if I wanted to fix it, new brakes had to be installed and they need to be the dealership brand which is for Hyundai cars. How true is this? I'm very naive when it comes to cars so I don't know whats going on.
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My car has been having issues lately, I'll have the heat or air on (doesn't matter which), and I'll hear a click (like a pen click) and it will go off, then it will click again and go back on. Last year it only did this a couple of times and I solved the problem by hitting the dashboard, obviously. But now it's doing it every time I drive, and since it's winter I kind of need the heat to stay on. What is the problem?
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