Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 Will Not Start / No Lights On Dash
Mar 8, 2012
I have a 2002 Accent...Won't start....When I turn the key on...none of the idiot lights come on...It will turn over like crazy...but nothing....Have checked all fuses and relays... Then all of a sudden the lights will all come on and it starts...ran it for awhile drove it around a bit...shut it off...then tried to restart and it did...ok then 2 days later went to start it..and same thing...No idiot lights came on....and of course will not start..Someone mentioned to me it might be the ignition switch itself that might be causing the problem?
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I'm having an electrical problem that's resulting in the hazards, dash lights, radio and clock all constantly flashing on and off repeatedly. The car starts fine.
When investigating under the hood, I found a wire (pictures below) that wasn't connected to anything. I'm not sure if this is what's causing the problem, but I figured this was a good place to start.
What this wire is supposed to be attached to, and if it has anything to do with the flashing lights I'm experiencing?
What this wire is or possible causes of these flashing lights.
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I recently had my '02 Accent serviced. When I picked it up, the mechanic had set the parking brake with about 15,000 lbs of force. Once I got it released, I noticed that the red parking brake dash indicator light won't go off while the car is running.
I have verified the brakes are free, and have tried wiggling the brake handle.
Is there a switch somewhere that could be bad? For the record, I do most minor maintenance myself, and have 214,000 trouble-free miles on my 1.5L SOHC Accent.
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The car is a 2002 Accent GL LC ...
Here's my problem, The brake lights will not come on at all.
I've checked all the fuses, they're fine. Same with all the globes. I can't source a wiring diagram anywhere so I just started looking for faults.
I started with the pedal switch. There is no power getting to it at all but it earths fine. I thought the feed from the battery could be severed so I fed 12v straight to it. The switch works, but the lights are still not getting power.
To follow any of the wires in either direction from the switch, it looks like I'll have to remove the dash and that's really something I don't want to attempt without a good reason.
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I've got a 2009 Hyundai Accent, 28k miles on it, and was working fine until today. When I turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't turn at all. My battery seems to be fully charged. I checked my ignition fuses and everything seems fine. Is there anything else I could try? I'm still under warranty, but it's such a hassle dealing with those dealership types.
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My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
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So it finally happened...One day she was working just fine and now is dead. OK, starter is working, battery is new but there's absolutely no spark on any of the spark plugs. I wonder what could it be ?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
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2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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My friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
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Interesting condition I've encountered during this wonderful little mini project. I installed LED lights for my turn signals. As expected, I got hyperblinking. Just put in an LED compatible flasher (pain in the butt to install that thing...), and now my blinkers work fine, but my whole dash flashes if I signal with the rest of my lights off. Works fine if the light stalk is set to parking lights or full on.
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I have a 2002 Accent. The blue back lighting on the dash are out. The mileage lights are on. The back lighting will come on for a bit and then off again.
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Here goes, I just took ownership in the last month of a Hyundai Accent GS(2000). Car's been going great, but I have now found an annoying issue with a vibration coming through the dash. When I'm accelerating in all gears (and esp up hill when the car is under pressure), a Vibration starts in the dash and stays until I am roughly over 3000 revs. I'm in Ireland, so the car is Right Hand Drive. The Vibration sounds like it is coming from behind the speedo clocks near to windscreen.
So far, I have removed the Center Console and Stereo and the Vibration stays there. I've reached in behind the console and cant find any vibration there. I have also driven with the speedo clocks removed and putting my hand into the space trying to find the vibration.....but no joy.
The vibration itself sounds like a plastic trim in the dash (or behind the dash), but it has my stomped! Can it be something in the engine causing it? Engine ticks over fine, not lumpy in anyway.
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'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, standard transmission. Within the last 2-3 months, I have had my battery, starter, and radiator replaced. Three times in the last month, I have turned my car on and the headlights and dashboard lights won't come on. However, the break lights, blinkers, and other interior lights come on. The first time, I shut the car off and left it over night and the lights all worked in the morning. The second time this happened, I just turned the car lights on and off a few times, and they came back on. When it happened this evening, I tried turning the car and the lights on and off, but no luck. I took the car to a mechanic after it happened the first time. He said that because it wasn't happening then, it would be really hard to diagnose.
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My brake lights are always on. When i turn my lights on the brake lights are on as if i am pressing the brakes. Very annoying for people behind me obviously, especially at night. If my lights are turned off and i press the brakes all the dash lights come on.. depress the brakes they go off. I've tried changing the brake switch above the pedal.. changed fuses.. can't figure it out.
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The "emissions" light on the dash of my 2002 Acura RSX lights up when I run the heater in winter months. It only comes on when the heater is on. It is never on in the summer, and even when it is warmer outside and I have the heater on, it will turn off. The gas cap is not loose, and the car is otherwise in great condition. Is this something I need to worry about?
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My tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
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Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
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