Accent LC (2000-05) :: No Electric Power At All After New Battery Installed
Dec 21, 2015
There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
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After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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I replaced the battery because I was getting the red triangle with no screen powerup. This is a slight improvement but I'm stuck as to what the "Problem" indicator on the MFD is about.
I've checked the battery in maintenance mode, reading 12.6V.
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So my wife's 2007 Camry just got a new battery a week or two ago. The other day she goes into the garage to her car to find it dead, with no power to the locks (had to use key instead of FOB), no accessories, no dash lights and no dome light. When she tried to start the vehicle it gave her a single click, did not crank and did not start.
Initially I approached it from the perspective that maybe the alternator was not charging the battery, so I charged the battery with my portable charger. The battery charged fast and checked out okay.
I then used the key FOB to unlock the door. Adjusted the electric seat to better fit me. The dome light came on. I also checked to see the head lights came on. I turned the ignition to start and I got a single click. Tried it again and got no feedback. The dome light was no longer lit and no other accessories worked. All of the power seemingly drained following the attempt to start.
Now I am wondering if the starter is shorting out or if something more mysterious in the electrical system is malfunctioning in a way that I have never faced before...
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So recently I was driving through highway 17 with 4 people and we'll my 07 Prius was slowing down like never I eventually smelled a little burn but I ignored it I just though the engine was working a bit to hard. Recently I noticed that on the energy screen it only shows that the battery is getting charged it sometimes used the battery to the motor but not often. I did notice though that I run with electricity more when I'm in the city. It's quite weird it's like the electric motor doesn't work on the freeway.
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It's been like that for a a while now. Every morning the hybrid battery would run down to last bar. When I start the car it would be 3/4 full and it would keep draining even though I'm on flat road.
The overall mileage has not changed much but its annoying with the battery goes to last bar and there's no electric power to accelerate.
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So I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the 1994.5-97 section. The reason being I have a 2000 f250 with a 97 7.3. It currently has a mechanical fuel pump but they keep crapping out. We dont have the money to do a $600 diy conversion so were looking for a cheap solution.
So the 2000 has all the fuel lines and plugs to put a electric fuel pump in, but if I just threw a electric pump on then it would feed to the mechanical fuel pump which I'm guessing is a no no? Or possible?
If I put the electric fuel pump would I just have to remove the mechanical fuel pump and run lines from the pump to the bowl?
If the fuel bowl can't hold the pressure of an electric fuel pump then would I be able to swap the fuel bowl only and be good to go or is that impossible?
Let me know what you think were trying to do this as cheaply as possible.
2000 f250 auto 4x4, 97' 7.3 motor.
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My friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
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When the car is running, the noise is not there OR it is drowned out by the engine, but when you turn the key and run on battery, you hear a buzzing and it sounds like it is coming from the engine, it stays until you turn the engine on or turn the key back off.
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Where this buzzer is located? under the dash(where)? Mine doesn't seem to work anymore. I've drained my battery like 5 times already.
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My hyundai accent 2005 is not starting at all. The battery is charged but the engine is not starting when i try to key the ignition. I had keyyed in continuously around 20 to 30 times but it just doesnt start. When i try to key in fully, the engine makes a sound and chokes.
I was told by someone that my spark plugs in the vehicle were wrong i.e. the genuine spark plugs were for hyundai elantra and not hyundai accent. the spark plugs were in vehicle for around 2 months. Can wrong spark plugs cause vehicle starting problems?
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I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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I'm seeing the following symptoms in my 2001 Accent 1.6L:
1. Check Engine Light on;
2. Certain electrical functions occasionally surge. For example, headlights and dash lights will become noticeably brighter for a few seconds, and the heater fan will blow harder. The surges last for about 3 seconds, then stop. Surges happen randomly, sometimes four or five times during a 30 minute drive, sometimes not at all in an hour.
3. The speedo/tacho lights have been cutting in and out randomly for longer than this, and this does not happen at the same time as the surges above.
4. Recently, the surges became more frequent and the Air Bag light started going on, then off. Now it is permanently on.
5. The battery has leaked fluid out from the fill caps, a good few ounces of fluid.
6. There are no blown fuses.
7. The Battery is 6 months old.
8. The alternator is 6 months old, and is the third one after two previous ones failed; the original was replaced 3 years ago, and the replacement failed 2.5 years later.
9. A fried lead to the starting motor was found when the alternator was first replaced, and was repaired. Related?
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it. (none of the books covered this.
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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After my mechanic installed a new battery my car radio doesn't work. It turns on and lights up but generally only produces static. Every now and then it tunes into a station, with much static, but generally not. The fuse is fine. The radio manufacturer, LG, says this radio has no code so that isn't the issue.
My car is a 1999 SEAT Arosa 1.4 6h with APQ motor. It's essentially a small version of the VW Golf.
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Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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1996 Saturn SL2. The electric locks have been malfunctioning such that they will suddenly lock and unlock continuously until the battery is dead. It occurs for reasons unknown - like the locks have a mind of their own. Been occurring intermittently - about once every couple of weeks. Mechanic's been unable to replicate the problem. I'm fairly clueless about cars. It's an older car, obviously, but is otherwise okay ....
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I have a 97 Toyota Celica. Had a new battery installed and now the radio and clock do not work. Replaced the 15 fuse in the fuse area to the left of the steering wheel - which worked in the past - but this time, nothing. The cigarette lighter works, but no clock or radio.
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