Accent MC (2006-11) :: Clunk Noise When Shifting To Drive?
Aug 13, 2014
I own an automatic 2009 Accent. I'm at 95,000KM.
Anyway, the problem does not occur all the time and appears to be entirely random.
When I start my car, on occasion, the car will make a CLUNK sound when shifting from park to reverse or drive. When it does CLUNK, you can feel the car lurch as if something fell out of place. The sound is quite audible, even with the radio on. The sound and lurch is not as pronounced when shifting to reverse. It doesn't seem to happen when going to neutral but is very obvious when going to drive.
Turning off the engine and restarting it seems to resolve the issue. Once I had to restart the engine twice before the clunk stopped.
Attempting to drive when the car does this sound results in increased RPMS. Usually when driving the RPMS sit between 2000 and 3000 but would jump to between 3000 and 4000 when the clunk occurs. Usually, the car will want to crawl forward if I'm not on the brakes but with the clunk, the car need quite some gas to start going forward.
Here's where it gets scary:
On two occasions, while driving on the highway at 100km (65 miles), I'd feel something slip and then suddenly my RPMS jump up by 1000. On both occasions I had to pull over, turn off engine and restart the car and the issue stopped.
Clearly, whatever it is that changes gears is slipping but the fact that it slips while driving just freaks me out.
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Lately my transmission has delayed shifting into first when I shift my car into drive on cold starts. It delays for usually about 2-3 seconds then kicks hard into first. The rest of the shifts are smooth and on time. I've tried replacing my transmission fluid, but that doesn't seem to fix it. Is there an actual problem with my transmission? I had the TCM replaced when it would get stuck and not shift. I have a 2009 GLS with around 53k on it.
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I was driving down the street earlier today, when I heard (and felt) a loud *clunk* from under the car. At first I thought it was a blown tire from the way the car was handling, but then I heard the grinding/screeching sound. No matter what gear I put the car in (even neutral), it makes the grinding noise and won't move. I've narrowed it to to either a transmission issue or a problem with the drive shaft.
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I have a 2005 Accent GL (4dr Sedan) base model, 5 speed. I live in Canada (not sure if that will play a part); I notice that when I shift from first to second there is a 'clunk', not really a grind, and not a major clunk... but it's noticeable. As the car warms-up, it seems to be less pronounced (or maybe I start to ignore it). Is this something to worry about? or could it be the clutch plates.
I have had lots of bikes with wet clutches and this is 'normal' for a bike going into first gear. With the bike it's due to what I call Hydrolic-stick ... (2 or more) plates 'sticking' when you let the clutch out, one spinning faster than the other. Off topic now...
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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So my 2010 with 20k miles on it just started to have some jingling/chirping noises around the drive belt area. It isn't all that loud but i can hear it. Could this be just a simple loose belt? Are our belts auto adjusting or manually adjusted? The noise increases with engine rpm in all gears and in neutral. Is def coming from the belt area.
One pulley does seem like it is not perfectly round and I can see some very slight run out from side to side. Nothing really obvious though - that might be normal?
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I bought a 2005 Accent with 150k one year ago and 3 months ago got AT fluid and filter changed. Color was very dark my mechanic friend said.
I checked the fluid and after just 3 months light driving, noticed it smelled burnt and so just changed it again yesterday and it was very dark.
Another piece of info is that previously when got the fluid changed 3 months ago the level registered way above high when car was off but then then normal when running in N. Same thing is happening now. My knowledgeable mechanic friend just told me to keep my eye on it.
There are no shifting issues, except for just light clunk when shifting into Reverse, but other than that it's great.
I just want to know what problems might be going on to burn the fluid so fast and have strange level readings when car is off but okay when on. I read some stuff about solenoids but because shifting is great should I even consider that?
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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2007 Azera 120k miles. Have noticed first thing in the morning when shifting from 4th to 5th gear, I hear a clunk.. Yesterday I heard two clunks when downshifting from 5th to 4th. Tried shifting the car manually today and was able to replicate the problem. After 15 minutes of driving, the problem is gone.Never seems to happen in the afternoon after car has been driven.Transmission fluid is full. Have always changed at the 60k intervals.Fluid is not burnt. Light pink color.
What could possibly be causing this? Is this likely to get worse? How long might I have before the car might become not drivable ? I ask this because I have been considering trading it in for a new car. Now seems to be a good time to buy a 2016 car, since the 2017"s are almost out.
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I've just bought a 2005 Prius, 142k miles. It's a great car, and frankly with any 'new' car I buy I always worry about new sounds. This time it's 'clunk' or 'thump' noise when shifting from D to R and vice versa. It doesn't happen all the time, but it's a noticeable noise that can be felt as well.
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The first thing is that suddenly there's a clunk type noise from the transmission when shifting in to or out of 2/3/4. Also, when I'm in one of those gears, letting off the throttle and then re-applying lightly causes the clunk noise. However, I haven't noticed any actual performance difference, just the new noise. It's loud enough that I can hear it over the radio at a reasonable volume, and it may or may not be my imagination but I think I can feel it through the floor of the car.
The next thing is that in the mornings, the car seems to have trouble getting in to gear from a stop. So I'll pull up to a light, then stop, and if I take off the brake and get immediately on the throttle, the car will lurch pretty bad, even if it's only a little throttle. I've found that if I let off the brake, and wait specifically to hear/feel the transmission kick in, there's no lurch and everything is fine.
Also, on that same note, sometimes when I let off the brake at these times, the car nearly stalls. It hasn't stalled yet but it's felt close a few times.
As well, from a cold start, there is what feels like an absolute ton of engine braking in second gear, I can feel the car pulling back immediately after I let off the throttle, and this seems strange and new as well.
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The only play I could find is in sway bar itself, it moves left to right (driver side to passenger side) a little. In the picture below, there is a gap between the silver collar and the bushings. Is it possible that the bushings I have are too thin? Should they be tight against the silver collar to prevent sway bar movement?
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2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
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This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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I bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
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My truck makes a noise that kinda sounds like i run over a rumble strip on side of the road when truck shifts down from OD to Drive.. only last for a second, sounds like it coming from under truck and not steering or wheel area... Plan on taking truck to tranny shop..
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My friend has a 2007 accent with a manual transmission they said that they were driving and the transmission stopped shifting gears. The clutch pedal still has pressure so I don't think it is a master or slave cylinder issue. They freaked out and turned off the car and now the car will not start up again. Have any of you experienced anything like this before or know on this car where to start looking? I think the issue with not being able to switch gears could be a pressure plate issue but this would not cause the car not to start.
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Daughter's 09 Accent 86k miles making a very quick hiss when accelerating rapidly and/or uphill about a half second before first shift. Hiss stops noticeably before the shift happens. She reports a slight 'kickback' in the pedal, but I noticed no power loss when the passenger seat. No check engine light. Car has an aftermarket cruise. Sound seems to be coming from the right-ish side of the vehicle and outside the cabin. Doesn't occur under 'grandpa' driving conditions. Pretty much only when using the accelerator as a binary switch.
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