Accent MC (2006-11) :: Misfire At Idle In Park Or In Gear When Stopped At A Light
Sep 20, 2013
2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
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2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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OK, car has 94K miles, never had anything done to it, and the timing belt stripped out a bunch of teeth and bent the valves, you know the usual deal.
Pulled the engine apart, and order a head gasket set and scored a low miles head from a salvage yard. I was told the engine it came from was running fine but had a damaged timing cover so they parted out the engine, when i got the head the timing belt gear was bent and cracked, but i couldn't see any other damage and all looked good so i put it all in, and after having some trouble getting good info on where the timing marks are suppose to go i got it all back together and went to fire it up, start and die a couple times, i figured it was the fuel system re-priming itself, car starts and is running rough, i give it a few small revs and above about 2K it seems to run fine, but has def misfires at idle.
While i was looking around the engine bay checking over stuff i can hear a definite buzzing sound coming from the injectors, which i can tell you isn't normal, and is causing my problem i believe. The injector plugs are pretty straight forward, so im pretty sure i have them in the right spots.
The CEL came on, and i plugged in my code reader but was unable to connect to the ECM for some reason. Are these cars can bus?
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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I have a high milage (210K) '07 2.4L which has a slight engine rattling noise at idle RPM at cold and operating temps, in gear or park. It is a fairly constant noise at idle but does vary a little. Otherwise, engine/tranny operate beautifully with no obvious problems.
I am concerned this could be a timing chain/tensioner related issue although I also wonder if it may be some other component. I have not been able to determine the source or location of the sound.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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I have 2006 PT Cruiser Turbo Convertible that violently shakes when I am stopped at idle in gear and the A?C compressor is on. When I turn the A/C compressor off (leaving the fan on) there is a drastic reduction in the vibration. If I put it in park and turn the fan off, there is an additional lessening of the vibration.
I have taken it to three different mechanics and had the following done: spark plugs and spark plug wires changed, fuel injection system cleaned, the 'whatchamacallit' in the fuel system cleaned out, the two main motor mounts changed.
None of the above maintenance has lessened the vibration one bit. Question: What is causing it?
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So, yesterday, when I stopped at red light, my car just turned off. I tried to turn it on, but I couldn't. I kept trying, and after 30th try it turned on. I had this same problem month ago, but it disappeared until now. I can turn it on by pushing when it happens. Is it fuel pump? Or some sensor?
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My wife has been using her mom's 07 Accent, the mom is 90 and hasn't been incapable of using it for a while now. I did an oil change (without paying much attention) I've never seen this type of car before. Oddly the oil level seemed outrageously over full and still dirty
Then upon driving it the automatic transmission was all wacky, not engaging at idle, then it abruptly chunking into gear...
So I check the transmission fluid level and it's not on the stick. Research here let me know SP-III is what I'd need. Then while surfing a youtube vid regarding this model's transmission it hit me in the face, I'd drained the automatic transmission fluid! Went to the Kia dealer got 3 quarts dumped it in there, drained the overfilled 5.5 quarts of old and new oil rectifying my mistake, which brings me to the reason for this post.
This 2007 car only has 24,300 miles on it and I mistook the automatic transmission fluid for outrageously dirty engine oil! I swear this stuff looks like it's fulla carbon black n burnt up. My question: is it normal for the trans-fluid to have such a degraded appearance in only 25,000 miles?
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I'm having problems with my accent, is been running not so good , and had a check engine light, indicating a misfire cylinder 3 and 4, i was told to put a can of Seafoam on the gas tank, but that didn't work. I replace the spark plugs (not the wire) and air filter and still running bad. Is not happening all the time (check engine light) but you can tell is running ruff at all time. I don't know if I need to change the spark plugs wires. I don't think is the spark plugs wire, they don't look bad or damage.
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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I noticed this week the gear shift light was out on my 2008 Accent GLS. I tapped the side of it and it came back. Next day, same behavior.
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2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
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Rough idle whenever you are not in motion. It is very obvious, and a little frustrating as my previous 5 cars never had this issue. I love the car, but the vibration is driving me a little crazy. When the car is in park, and you lean on the outside of the car it is also vibrating heavily. I hate to have them start taking things apart when there is less then a 1000 miles on the clock.
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I just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I drive a 2002 Accent GL, automatic transmission with only 86,000 on it. For a while now I've been having transmission issues where the car will jerk violently when shifting or starts to rev in certain gear or in park. It also doesn't seem like it knows what gear it wants to be in half the time when I accelerate. Recently, while driving somewhere, it got real worse. It started revving and jumping and redlining and just going crazy while I was driving. I turned the car off and waited a while and turned it back down and it seemed to calm the issue a bit.
But I am afraid to drive right now. It's not the fluid. I've changed it twice in the past two years. Never works. I've seen issues like this on here before. If it IS the transmission needing to be replaced, why so soon with just 86,000 miles on it? And would having the transmission rebuilt be a better choice, cost-wise, but still just as effective?
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2004 Hyundai Accent has is misfiring, after warming up, only in idle. This only happens after about 30 seconds in idle. Could it not be getting enough gas? This being said I was getting misfire on 3 as well but that would happen all the time and cause the entire car to shake. This problem is now fixed and only #4 is causing me problems.
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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