Ive tried a few different things; "remote" locking, locking only with the key, locking only manually, opening and shutting all the doors(and trunk) before locking. It might go off every couple of hours, or go a day or two before it goes off again.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles on it. Runs great. The car alarm goes off randomly in spurts. Some days it goes off multiple times. Sometimes it will go a week or two without going off at all. The battery has been replaced in hopes of solving the problem. That didn't work. So, I have taking out the alarm sounding device so as to not disturb the neighbors. However, I find that dangerous and it doesn't solve the problem of the persistent alarm. I can tell when it is going off by the flashing lights. I thought it was the clicker, so I switched that and that didn't work either.
View 4 RepliesThe factory 'Security System' aka alarm, in my 2000 Honda Accord EX goes off randomly. When this happens the horn sounds and lights flash for several minutes at a time. This can happen several times in one day and then not happen again for days or weeks. The owner's manual says that the security system is activated when the doors are locked and will sound an alarm if a passenger door, trunk lid or hood are opened while the system is activated. The system is deactivated by using either a key or the remote transmitter to unlock the doors. My mechanic tried to disable the hood latch switch, but this caused the alarm to sound continuously. How to fix the problem or disable the security system?
View 4 Replies1993 Honda Accord LX (263,000 miles). My headlight indicator alarm does not activate when I turn off the engine with my headlights on. I have looked at all fuses. Problematic in the morning after sun rises and can no longer see the headlights .... dead battery.
View 6 RepliesI just pick up a 2000 VW Passat and the next day the alarm started going off. Non-stop honking, doors locking, etc. Pulled back the carpet near module box and there was a ton of water. Water in the box. Board in the box needs replaced and I would like to look for it online vs buying thru the dealership. Also, I'm trying to find out the part # or exact name of the part so I can look it up. I hate dealing with the dealership so I'm trying to find out what I can online before spending half my day on the phone being transferred and put on hold over and over.
View 4 Replies2000 VW cabrio, and the car alarm has been going off and why? It has gone off in empty parking lots, and much to my neighbors annoyance, several times in the middle of the night. Other than unplugging the battery when I get home what can i do about my alarm?
View 2 RepliesInstalled new motor in 2000 celica gt after blown piston on monday the 17th. From monday 17th to thursday night on the 20th the car battery and alarm worked with no issues.
I was installing the touchscreen and sub in the car the night of the 20th and when i pulled the positive terminal from the battery to power the sub, then reinstalled the terminal but the alarm went off and would not disarm via the remote (that has worked for several years before the repair job). I tried replacing the battery but still nothing. i even check voltage on the remote board to verify output voltage when button was pressed.
I called Audiovox and they had me remove the 10 pin connector to disable the alarm and that worked. i drove the car home the night of the 20th. the morning of the 21st the car started fine and the audio system was installed and working.
The afternoon of the 22nd i went to start the car and it was dead. I have tried disconnecting the audio system to check that but the battery still dies overnight.
I used a amp meter to check the draw on the battery on on saw .94 amp with the door open and light on. i saw .14 amp's with the door shut and no light. This just doesn't seem like enough draw to drain the battery but i still have to pop the clutch in the morning to go to work.
I have noticed that my drivers door does not lock using the controls inside the car. I do not know what kind of alarm system is on the car, it has no markings on the case or the board itself. the serial number did not pull a single result in google. I called audiovox because that's who makes the shock sensor on the car, they say its universal.
2000 Blazer LT 4wd, 118000 miles
During a severe thunder storm the factory alarm went off. I was unable to shut off the alarm with the key fob. The power door locks did not work either with the door switch or the key fob. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes.
After I reconnected the battery the door locks worked using the key fob or door switch. I took it for a drive with no further problems. About 10 minutes later the alarm went off again. I could hear the door lock solenoids attempting to lock/unlock the doors and there was a clicking under the dash. I disconnected the battery again, after the battery was reconnected the power door locks were still not working. The truck starts up and runs normal, everything seems to work except for the door lock?
I checked the PW fuse, it was fine. The battery is fully charged at 12.6V. I've disconnected the battery and will have another look at it tomorrow. There was nothing useful in the Owner's Manual and the resync procedure did not work.
Update: Before driving to work this morning, I cleaned the positive and negative terminals. The locks worked and the truck ran normally during the 30 min drive to work. After reading the Owner's manual closely, I discovered the Theft Deterrent System can be disarmed by locking the car with the doors closed. The system is armed by locking the doors with a door open, i.e. pressing the lock switch when exiting the vehicle.
No further problems with the alarm or the door locks whether the Theft Deterrent System is armed or disarmed. Hopefully leaving the battery disconnected overnight was the fix.
I have a 2000 Passat and one day the the alarm remote just stopped working. I bought new batteries for it but it didn't work. Shortly after that my A/C started taking about a 1/2 hour to start working. What is the reason for both of these to start acting up?
View 1 RepliesSister have problems with her 2000 Passat. She bought the car new and has dumped way too much money into this thing since then, just keeping it going. First off, some valet broke her glove box so i would like to know if there is anywhere to buy parts at a good price, a trusted place. Secondly, when she starts the car up an alarm goes off on the display and says "STOP: Brake Fault" but apparently a tech that she trusts says her brakes are fine minus the fact that the FP brake is missing a "pin", claimed to be fixed at the dealer but wasn't.
As well as she throws a cel pertaining to a?Secondary airflow valve? Lastly, she has been holding onto some little plastic piece that fell off somewhere on the inside. It looks like half of a smurf hat or a comma if that makes it easier to visualize. Part numbers on the back are 3B085854801C Donnelly 423 1919. I do all the work on my own car but have a bit of a time working on things on this VW. They really don't like people working on these outside the dealer, but she is looking to get this stuff repaired along with a rear window off track, and that's insane.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
New 2015 Mercedes E350 wagon ..... The day after I took delivery, I tried to open the new wagon's doors (it has a keyless feature) and nothing happened. I tried again and still nothing happened. I then took the smartkey out of my pocket and tried to click open the locks and nothing happened. I then took the ancillary key out of the smartkey and unlocked the car manually. This set off the alarm which would only stop when I closed the door and relocked the car.
Also, the car would not start. It was like I had broken in to the car. A few minutes later, while waiting for roadside assistance to speak with me, I tried the door handle again and discovered that the doors would now open keylessly. I have driven the car several times since the incident (which occurred yesterday) and it has not repeated the problem. What caused the problem?Is this a one time glitch or am I in danger of being stranded somewhere?
I recently noticed my 93 accord idling between 1,000 and 2,000 going up then down up and down when the car is in park but when i shift it into gear the car idle goes down to 700 but after driving i shift the car back into park the idle goes back up 1,800 rpm levels off than comes down to 1,000 rpm and i know this idle is too high because it cause my fans to come on sooner and more frequent its like im on the gas when I am not.
I did some research and came back fit fast idle thermo valve so I changed this valve twice and it still does the same thing i have no coolant leaks and no intake work was done so I don't think its a vacuum leak cause it only does erratic idle in park but in gear its fine so this is a puzzling one also I changed thermostat and flushed cooling system followed by a bleed of all the air out of the cooling system now on youtube they call this a hunting idle and is very notorious on 90-93 accords also when I drive down the road and let off the gas it lets of this high pitched whining noise sounds like a valve is getting stuck open.
My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
My car just started knocking terribly--making a really loud noise at all speed and all gears. (Not when idling, though.) It is a 2000 Honda Accord. Both the oil and the oil filter were changed about 2000 miles ago, so the oil should be good. What might be causing this?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2000 Accord with about 65000 miles on it, 5 speed manual. The clutch is getting flaky. One time recently, it went to the floor and stayed there until I pulled the pedal back out. Then it worked fine for many days. Dealer could not get the problem to repeat; no leaks found. But now sometimes it is hard to get the car in gear (especially reverse), or the clutch feels spongy, but not in a consistent way.
View 2 Replies2000 Honda Accord. Daughters car and she went to start the car leaving a store and it wouldn't start. She tried a few times. Cranks fine but didn't start. Went and got her and she said that it's happened a couple of times before but she would get it started by waiting and trying until it did. It's been there since last night so it's been about 18 hours when I drove over to look at it and it started right up and I drove it home.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord that has no power won't start . Just replaced a fuel pump spark plugs battery .. Wondering if it could be a short some where . It did start today then I shut it off and try to start again and had no power .
View 9 Replies2000 Honda Accord V6 EX Coupe
I change the oil regularly in this car and I replaced the battery in August 2014. I’d never had a problem with this car until back in June 2015 on a very hot day when I went to start it and the engine would not start. It was cranking and cranking and the starter was smooth, there were no knocks or anything out of the ordinary, the car just wouldn’t start. I started checking various things on the car, not really knowing what to do. After around 30 minutes I tried to start the car and it started up and ran completely fine. I didn’t change anything or mess with anything on the car. It just started.
This happened around twice a month until September and then I didn’t have the problem for a couple of months. It’s now December 2015, and the problem has returned. But now it is more common and happens almost every time I try to start the engine. But so far, it always starts if I wait 30 minutes or maybe a bit longer.
Important info:
I work from home and drive this car twice a week at the most. It sits for days at a time without being started. But this has been the case for the past 4 years and this probelm didn’t start happening until June 2015.
There is no movement on the tachometer when the car cranks but won’t start. The green key light doesn’t constantly blink when they key is turned. It blinks a few times then stops blinking. The check engine light isn’t on and there are no other lights on.
When the car runs, it runs smoothly and I’ve never had a problem with it cutting off or acting strange. Once the car starts and I drive it for even around 5 minutes, I can turn it off and then start it again immediately without a problem. I’ve never tried to start the car, then immediatley turn it off, then start it again so I don’t know if it would start in that situation.
It’s been kind of warm for this time of year where I live (North Carolina). It’s been around 70 degrees outside this week.
I removed the cover over the fuel pump in the trunk. I don’t think there’s any sound coming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can’t hear it priming (if that’s the correct term). But when I let the car sit for 30 minutes and turn the key to on, I can’t hear anything then either, and the car still starts right up.
I took the car to a garage, but the car was starting then. I let it sit there for around two hours maybe three and went back, but the car started right up, so the mechanic told me he couldn’t do anything if the car was starting. I mean he said he would try some stuff, but he seemed kind of stumped himself. I didn’t want to start paying him money to just “try some stuff.” But I might have to do that.
I took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
View 8 Replies2000 Honda Accord. I've been told I have a bad ignition coil. Do I need to replace all six or can I just replace the one?
View 19 Replies