Acura - TL :: 2006 - Code U0107 / Car Won't Go Above 2000 RPM
Aug 31, 2014
I'm trying to figure what's going on with my car I drove it fine home then when I turned it off and tried to immediately afterwards adjust the parking the car wouldn't turn on with the clutch engaged. Tried several times to turn the engine then gave up. Next day I adjusted the pedal and pushed the pedal all the way to the floor and it came on.
But now I have the issue of the check engine light being on And VSA light checked the code and it says U0107 and the car won't go above 2000rpm. We tried changing the app sensor and it worked for a split second then went back to the code. Checked the battery voltage and battery is good. I then changed the throttle control relay under the glove box and still nothing.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
View 8 Replies
I was looking at a 2000 Acura TL, and although I haven't driven it yet, when I searched for "2000 Acura TL problems", it brought up plenty of references to the transmission issues that they had.
From my quick read, there seems to be a couple of different things that the dealers did when servicing the transmissions under the recall or extended warranty. Many of the posts seem to disagree on what determined whether the serviced transmissions would last or not, or would have to go back in for additional repair/replacement.
That would be a nice car, but I am not willing to deal with transmission issues if they are more likely than your average car.
View 2 Replies
2000 Acura Integra Auto ... Replaced the radiator through Kragen (O'Reilly)Didn't come with a cap - using the existing one.If you tighten it, it goes around through 360 degrees ...
View 4 Replies
My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
View 15 Replies
I have a 2000 Acura TL with 225,224 miles, runs very good. Recently it has not been starting all the time. Just grinds and not turn over. If I wait a while then try again, it will start and run very good. Mechanic could not duplicate problem. Checked everything he could think of even all the computers, could not find anything wrong. What to do now? I read that someone had the same problem with a 1995-or 98 (?) with their Acura Integra and the dealer could not resolve the problem.
View 12 Replies
2004 Acura MDX, check engine light came on. Got code checked: P0741, supposed to be switch or torque converter. My mechanic won't do transmission work, so took to dealer. They drained fluid, no metal shavings. Now they want to replace transmission, said it has internal damage. It wasn't running badly, a little slippage here and there. Don't think it really needs replaced.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
View 7 Replies
2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
View 13 Replies
my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
View 1 Replies
My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
View 4 Replies
I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Acura MDX automatic transmission that at least once a day when driving around town, will suddenly loose power, RPM's seem to be stuck at 2000, and then surge up to 5000 with no forward motion. When I try to accelerate again, the car "stumbles" forward until the RPM's settle back down to between 1-3 and the car drives normal. This is creeping me out...any thoughts? Valves have been adjusted.
View 10 Replies
We have a 2006 Acura MDX, 96K miles, well maintained. It has started making a disturbing scraping/grinding/humming noise from under the car, driver's side. It's random, sporadic, usually for 3 to 5 seconds; doesn't seem to be related to speed, braking or turning; sometimes barely perceptible, sometimes very loud. It drives fine. Wheel bearing maybe?
View 1 Replies
My Acura has been having some problems with what I"m guessing is a computer glitch. It's been to the mechanic four times in the past two weeks and while my dealer has been great about cooperating and trying to fix the problem, I think they just don't know what the problem is. The problems started when one day I was driving the car and all of a sudden all the error message lights came on and the car could no longer accelerate. Drove it slowly back home but when i took it to the mechanic the next day, it was working fine so he couldn't do anything about it.
Took it home and within ten minutes the problem started again. This time i took it to an Acura dealer and they kept the car for two days until it started acting up again (engine warning lights and what not) and they did an engine valve replacement of the traction control or some such thing. Two days later I was driving and the car just shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I was moving and not stopped or anything at the time. Took the car back again and they decided to change the whole computer system. Now two days later again, the check emission and check transmission warnings came on again.
The car is still working for the time being but its only a matter of time before it conks out on me. Also, even while running, the lights that indicitate what gear it is in continuously flash (so the D is flashing instead of solid) and occasionally the D and D3 lights are flashing simultaneously even though I am obviously in drive.
View 2 Replies
I drive a 2006 Acura MDX with about 30000 miles on it. Today when I put the key in my ignition and attempted to start it I hear a clicking sound and the car wont start. The first time I attempted to turn on my headlights they did turn on. But then when I tried a few seconds later they would not. And I am seeing lights flickering on my dashboard as well. Do I have a dead battery or possibly something worse?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2006 RSX base model. got 134,000miles on it. recently it starts to making whining noise when the rpm gets to 2500-3000rpm. The car also started to have the cricket chirping like sound. Had the oil changed, tune up already. The sound seems to get louder, and the car seems to have less power. Especially when going up a slope you can hear the engine revving, and car don't want to move. Before this car would go up these slope like it was nothing. My brother say the sound is coming from the engine.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Acura RSX with an auto transmission that is having problems starting. The electronics work (ie lights, stereo, auto-locks etc) and the engine starts to crank when the ignition is engaged, but it sputters out and doesn't turn all the way over even with a jump start. The battery tested positive and none of the fuses are blown, how this could be fixed?
View 10 Replies
Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
View 3 Replies
I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
View 1 Replies
I get this code, p171, every so often on my corolla. I have cleaned the MAF and finally changed it with one bought at AutoZone. I still get the code. What should I do next?
View 4 Replies
