When car is cold and leave the house a nasty smell emits from the ventilation system. I have replaced the cabin air filter 2 weeks ago and it seems to smell only when the car is cold. Once warmed up is fine. Is there another filter that I need to replace I just wonder where that old smell comes from.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Avalon with a 2GR-FEV6 engine with approx. 130,000 miles on it that ticks or chatters for about 2 seconds at startup. The sound is coming from the #2 bank directly below & forward of the oil filler cap (forward most bank, right side). The sound is only present after the car has been sitting for 2-3 hours or more and relatively cool right before startup. There is no other drivability issues such as reduced performance, power or gas mileage. It's not throwing a fault code and the symptoms began within 5000 miles of changing to Royal Purple synthetic oil at 110,000 miles. I don't know if that is a coincidence or the reason for the ticking.
My initial thought was a faulty VVT-i oil control solenoid/valve but I pulled it out, put 12 volts to it and it worked fine. My second thought was a possible clogged VVT oil screen or filter. give me the possible symptoms of what a clogged screen would do? Would it cause the VVT-i actuator to lag just long enough to cause this noise since the oil needs to get through the screen to flow through the oil control valve to affect the operation of the VVT-i actuator and if so what is actually making the noise? It sounds like rocker arms slapping but just in that one spot.
Do the check engine lights when you put the switch in the start position or as I know if working properly. I have a 2008 toyota avalon XL,
View 14 RepliesAnother issue just cropped up with my 2006 Avalon....
On startup, the front button on the climate control flashes for several seconds. The system will not heat on the left side, but the right will.
2014 Camry SE i4 20,500 miles ... Is it normal to smell gas coming out from the exhaust during a cold startup? After the car is warmed up the smell disappear ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Avalon and only 7000 miles on it. For the past month or two I've been getting a weird smell from the AC. Never got that smell when I first got the car. Smelt perfectly fine like a brand new car until now. I don't know how to describe the smell, but I know it isn't the smell of a dead animal. When I first start my car after it has been sitting for awhile, lets say over night, the smell is evident for the first 10 seconds. After those ten seconds the smell goes away and I don't really smell much of it. The smell is there but you can barely smell it. However, whenever I turn the "AC" button off but leave the fan running, the smell becomes very evident and it doesn't go away.
I've tried checking the filter. The filter was perfectly fine. It was clean with a little area of black on it which i believe is normal. Also the smell that I smelt wasn't in the filter. Another question is, is the filter facing upward suppose to be collecting the pollen and junk? Or it is suppose to be collected from the bottom? I might have replaced the filter the wrong way.
I have noticed if I turn on the AC and set it to any front defrost setting (either full front defrost or mix front defrost and lower vents) and turn up the heat that when I turn it on the next day there is a horrible smell. If I run the AC and turn the temperature up there is no smell so long as I don't use any setting using the front defrost. The smell is bad enough that I have to open the windows to air out the car. After a few minutes the smell goes away.
The car is an '06 XL. I noticed it intermittently when I first got it two years ago, but this winter the smell happens every time I use the AC on any front defrost mode. My guess is the heating element under the front windshield. If I turn on the heat without the AC on any front defrost setting I do not have the problem.
My car is 2007 Avalon(Limited). I have a problem with my A/C.
When I go out from work (at outside temperature of 95 F to 100 F ) I turn the A/C ON, it blows a nice cold air. and then when I stop at the traffic light for 4 minutes or so, the A/C start blowing a hot air(or air without any cooling). then I a had to pull over and turn it OFF and then turn it ON again. so it will become cold again. sometimes it continue blowing a nice cold air, and sometimes it just stop cooling and blowing a hot air for a while and then become cold again. the hot air its like its without the A/C sign turned green but its actually ON.(it happened everyday for a month now)
In the morning(7 am, 80 F), I switch the A/C on and move on to work, it took me around 50 min by car from my house to work. but after around 40 min it became hot again.(not everyday)
Note: Before this problem by 4 months, the ac in the driver side was hot and the passenger side was cold. and I add some refrigerant(Freon) in it and it become OK again.
I have this problem for some time already. Most of the time my AC works great - blowing cold air as it should. But sometimes it starts blowing "normal" air instead of cold. To fix that I have to turn OFF and then ON the AC again by pressing the AC button.
View 14 RepliesRecently replaced the valve-stem seals, along with the head gasket in hopes that would fix this, but no change. It is my 1985 B2000 that (sometimes) emits Enormous amounts of whitish, lingering smoke on a cold-start, enough to hide a Sherman tank or two. So far, the best way to avoid the smoke is by Not engaging the auto-choke (not depressing gas pedal at all before starting) and let it warm up, even though it runs roughly for a about 5 mins., and then smooths out, but, with no smoke.
Oil use is less than 1/2Qt per 3K miles. The smoke does not have the usual oil smell - but not anti freeze either, (only water in system anyway). And it seems that letting the engine idle a bit Before shutting down avoid the smoke... Problem started about 2 years ago, and after fiddling with it all this time with no good results. Tho' I have considered possibly something maybe coming down a vacuum line...? but have no way to confirm.
MAZDA B2000 1985 5-SPD No Air 160K miles
I have a 2008 with a tapping sound from engine - Sounds kinda like a diesel engine when cold. Not real loud.
It stops once the engine is warmed up. Is that most likely a tappet?
88,000 miles... I bought it two months ago with an extended warranty.
I purchased the Avalon at the end of the 2012 year. It now has 16,000 miles on it. The car is garaged outside in Massachusetts. On November 10, 2012 (month after purchase) and yesterday, January 28, 2014, the car was brought back to the dealership for a rear suspension clunking noise that happens during cold weather (32 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit). Both times the mechanics say they cannot find anything wrong, nothing is loose with the suspension, and there are no recalls about it.
The best way to describe the noise is when going over potholes in cold weather, I hear a clunk from rear suspension (both left and right side) like something is loose in the trunk (trunk was completely empty yesterday). The sound is not too loud, but audible enough to notice. The rear struts perform well, and the car does not bottom out. As soon as the weather warms up, the noise goes away. It is very really annoying to hear this clunk and the dealership not be able to identify the problem.
On first start of the day (engine cold), the transmission emits a siren-like sound similar to a hydraulic pump air-bound or cavitating. Sound disappears after first 1 or 2 miles of driving. Does not repeat during the rest of day when engine is warm. Repeats again at first start each morning. Ford dealer check of no value since mechanic could hear nothing with engine warmed up.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Avalon Limited and live in the Dallas area. Are used the auto setting on my thermostat all the time. I noticed that in cold weather, the AC almost always switches on as part of the thermostat function. I don't understand that. For example, its 30 degrees outside, & I select Auto and set the temperature to 70 degrees, and the green AC light goes on. I want to avoid using more gas than I need to use, so I'm wondering why this might be so. It's a simple matter to simply press the AC and turn it off, but I'm wondering why it goes on in the first place.
View 1 RepliesI have an '05 Camry XLE with the in-dash touch-screen AM/FM CD Nav system. On random cold days I seem to lose my radio reception. When I turn on the radio I receive a lot of static with break-through talking or music. I've tried to change stations using the touch panel, the steering control as well as the manual tuning dial and I still got static.
I've driven to work ~40 minutes and most of them were filled with static and some break-through talking (not of the station I was tuned into though). The last couple of minutes of my drive I did get a station that said it was 98.3 but I was tuned into 95.5. No matter which station I dialed in I still received the 98.3 station.
It seems like the antenna or something in the radio was stuck or frozen. I drove the entire time with the heat blaring on feet/defrost and rear defroster on thinking it might warm something up but that didn't work.
The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback XT with turbo. I have had a strange problem the last two winters and have stumped two mechanics, so far.
At this time of year, it is necessary to warm my car up for a few minutes in the morning. Last winter, when I warmed my car up, I would smell gasoline outside of the car and in the cab. It only happened when it is about 25 degrees or less outside. After about 10-15 minutes, once the car was warm, the smell would go away. I figured smelling gasoline was bad news, so, I took it to my mechanic who said he found a loose clamp in the engine. He tightened it and it fixed the problem. I didn't have any other issues that winter or through the next year.
But, this winter, the problem is back. I have moved, so, I took the car to a new mechanic (recommended by friends) and told him the issue. He said that he found a loose clamp between the engine and the turbo and tightened it. He said other than that, he can't think of anything. Well, that worked for a few days. But, now, the problem is back and with a vengeance. The smell is a bit different. Still like gasoline, but kind of like exhaust, too. And it is strong. I have to open the windows for a few minutes to air the car out before I can drive it. I took it back to the mechanic, but he is stumped and not sure what to do next.
I think my next step is to take it to a Subaru dealer, but with a 10 year old car, I'm hesitant to go that route. Though, I love my car and want it to last AND be safe to drive. What is going on?
Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
View 7 RepliesRecently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.