2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
View 1 RepliesOnly got a click when turning key, in Park or Neutral. Made sure I had >12.4V from battery. Jumped starter solenoid with a remote start switch across main power line to starter and the 's' post, crank pulley almost moved, but didn't rotate. Removed belt, all pulleys rotate, but could not budge the crank pulley with a short breaker bar/socket, rotating clockwise from front. Removed starter, that upper bolt is a super pain! Not even sure I'll get it back in. Jumped starter solenoid again on the bench using a battery and jumpers, not the best connections, starter hesitated little bit, but opened up fully a few times, so I'm thinking it's ok (even though the power line from the solenoid to starter motor needs re-taping). Tried rotating flywheel from starter hole, no good leverage point, but no movement. Before I re-install the starter, how much torque should I be putting on the front crank pulley? Some say it should move easy enough cause the starter isn't that powerful. Others say remove the spark plugs to reduce compression? This truck is new to me, so I unfortunately have no history.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata v6 with about 140k. The other day, I tired starting the car and I heard a "click" but no cranking. (For definitions, a click is a single staccato sound "kuh"; cranking would be the sound of the engine trying to start and just not able to make it "kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh"). I thought maybe I wasn't in park, so I jiggled the gear shift a little and then it started. I'm not sure I actually did anything, but it started and I figured it was a once and only problem. Well, I had the problem again tonight. In Park and Neutral I get a click. In Reverse and Drive, I get nothing. So it seems like Park is recognized. The battery is fully charged, but for god measure, I charged it anyway. Nothing unusual about the weather - 50s and dry. The car is parked on flat ground. I didn't just fill up. I can't think of anything different that I'm doing.
View 14 RepliesI have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited w/ 33k miles on it...4.0 engine. Have had it a little over a year. Last Fall, it started having issues whenever we had a lot of rain. Would not crank at all. Replaced the battery and clutch switch, which seems to worked, but is now doing it again. I turn the key and all of the lights come on, but there is not even a click. If I coast it off and pop the clutch, it starts right up. Once it dries out, will start w/ the key without an issue. Have an appt w/ the dealer, but they cannot get to it until Thursday, but I have to drive to work until then.
View 4 RepliesI was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
View 1 Replies1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
View 3 RepliesCar ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.
Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.
1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
View 4 Replies2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
View 7 RepliesIt's a 2002 Mazda Protege... The car shut off once while running in the driveway. Completely: engine, radio, everything. I took the key out and put it back in a couple of times and got nothing, no click, no turning over. Did it one more time, and it started up as if nothing was wrong.
Then again the next morning. Car won't start. I notice all the electronics are working while the key is in the accessories position. They shut off as soon as the key is in On, and nothing when turning to start. Took the key out, waited a minute or so, then tried again and everything worked as if nothing was wrong. I'm guessing this might be the ignition switch?
I just bought a used (25K miles) 2008 Azera. On Friday I started the car to leave work, and the ABS and ESC OFF lights came on. Not sure what to do I started to pull from my parking spot, and the front wheel ABS seemed to be engaging as i drove slowly (had the sound and feel of ABS as if I was making a fast hard stop). I pulled into another space and shut off the car. When I restarted it minutes later, the lights were off and no sound/pulsing feel. Is this a known issue?
View 2 RepliesMy parents have a 2008 Azera with 65k miles on it. Bumper to bumper warranty has expired. Their trunk will not close. It doesn't seem to latch. Any recommendations before I take it to the dealer? What the cost may be to have it fixed?
View 3 RepliesLast Wednesday, I went to the parking lot after a lunch meeting and my 08 Azera would not turnover. I assumed it was a bad battery (53,000 miles on the original) so I replaced it in the lot (The original tested dead at the parts house). After connecting the terminals of the new battery, the car would still not turnover. It wouldn't even click. I called road side assistance and when they arrived the car started fine by just turning the key - no charger/jump system was attached . I drove the car the rest of the day and put it in the garage that evening.
The next morning, the car would not turnover again - not even a click. I called roadside assistance again and they came out and connected a portable charger and it turned right over. I drove the car to the dealer and it continued to start without issue and they were unable to diagnose any problem. They did a parasitic draw test but the new battery continued to test as fully charged. They also checked the starter and it appeared to be functioning properly. I parked the car that evening and the next morning it wouldn't turnover - not even a click.