Azera TG (2006-11) :: Starter Keep Running For 2 Seconds After Engine Is Cranked On
Mar 29, 2015
I got this problem for 10 days and by the time to take my car to the auto shop it turned out that now I cannot start the engine at all. I started to hear that the starter is still running for a second or two after I switch on the engine but I was busy and was not able to leave the car for a check. Well, this morning the car gave up and refused to start at all.
Before I blame the starter I was thinking about the ignition lock although I didn't noticed anything problematic with it. I think that the battery is OK since I didn't lost the radio and I still can operate the windows as well.
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After a long hour working day, B6 could not start in company's parking lot. The temperature is not cold, the battery is not dead, has plenty gas in the tank. The starter cranked but couldn't start the engine. What should I try? Change the starter? if i need parts, I will grab from store and try to fix it in parking lot. if not, I have to tow it to dealer tomorrow.
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Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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My truck always fires up and starts immediately, however, this morning it cranked for about 5 seconds and than started. never had it crank that long to start. Ive been using regular unleaded for the last year without any problems. I hoping it was just a fluke, and I filled it up with premium fuel. Could it be signs of something to come? fuel filter, fuel pump etc.?
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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My truck will only stay cranked a few seconds then dies, I have a lot of codes popping up! I was told may be the FICM.
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A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
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Several months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
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I noticed some time ago that engine is making a sound like smth. is spinning very fast (gyrscope? mass wheel?) That happens when it is idle or drives slow, when I accelerate the sound disappear. The sound is hearable inside and outside of the car.
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Was driving my Azera back from lunch and got to work and we have some speed bumps in the work lot - it's a big one (not blaming them), but when accelerating, i noticed a lag and then a thrust from the engine, then the same on the second one. Then after a corner the engine cut out completely, I'm able to start the car, but it won't hold idle and just dies within 3 seconds.
2 hours later started the car, and it does idle, but just surges on the RPM's, and if you give it gas on delay it will increase the RPM's? I'm not driving home like this, it's getting a tow. The RPM's are all over the place at idle (just not high) and the
118,500km 2006 Azera. If the plugs, or wires have ever been done, feels a lot like Coil packs, maybe EGR. Never overheating. At first I thought maybe fuel pump, but it's getting fuel now, but rattling rough.
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I have a 2006 azera limited with about 63k miles on it and I noticed in the owners manual that at 60k I should have the valve clearance checked and adjusted if theres vibration or rough idle. I currently have a rough idle and more vibration from the engine.
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Question to everyone who drives an Azera out there. This is regarding the 3.8 V6 engine.Does your engine make a whirring noise at around 2000 rpm? Sounds almost like a supercharger whine, starts at around 1800 rpm and continues up to the low 2000 rpm's. It's not a loud noise, only audible with low volume music or none at all.
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I constantly hear 'tick, tick, tick' sound from the engine at start. Once the engine gets heat up, the sound disappears. I live in canada so it is still kinda cold in the morning. I didn't have this problem in the summer. the problem started in december when it gets really cold in canada. so i thought it might be an engine oil problem. I called the dealer to ask what kind of engine oil they use for my azera, ans they said they just use a regular engine oil with viscosity of 10w-20. However when I check the manual, viscosity of 5w-30 is recommended. I know engine oil with viscosity of 5w-30 is thinner than the one with 10-20w and therefore easy for the engine to get heat up and better protection at start in the winter. What viscosity engine oil do you use for you azera? Will using synthetic engine oil useful??
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So My battery seems ok but the engine is running when I'm stopped a lot the last couple of days. I also hear a click from under the hood every once in a while like something is turning on.
Trying to even the voltage on a cell? I'm in SoCal but it's not hot or cold out.
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Rough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
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I have recently noticed that my Azera makes a "knocking" sound right after starting the engine. It just about a dozen of fast short knocks one after another and it is gone after 2 seconds (like a diesel engine started on low temp. It appears more often when the engine is rather cold.
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My check engine light came on again tonight. I recently had it checked and it was a bad O2 sensor and was replaced under warranty. I took it to Autozone tonight, as the dealer was closed, and it came back a troublecode of P0110. They did not have that specific code for the Hyundai, but for the other cars (Toyota, Mazda, Kia, Lexus) it is saying IAT sensor or Intake Air Temperature circuit. It is saying possible open or short circuit, faulty iat sensor, or faulty ecm.
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I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
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My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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