The electric radiator fan motor in my 1992 Buick is begining to squeak. It's most noticeable during its gradual stop after shutting off the engine. Will WD40 or some other lubricant applied to its shaft remedy the problem? Or, will it be just a temporary fix before its inevitable failure?
View 5 RepliesMy 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I'm always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue?
View 12 RepliesSo it's an issue I've noticed 3 times now this summer. The car has been driven for at least 5 minutes each time and should be past the warm up phase. If I'm sitting at a light, the gas engine just keeps running. I thought it might be some kind of computer error so I tried powering the car off and turned it back on. EV mode will stay on for about 30 seconds but then the gas engine turns on again. Battery is 3/4 full like normal with the AC on. I've tried putting the car in EV mode but it says "not available". Temps in Houston have been in the high 90's recently so I'm wondering if this is the result of an overheated battery or if it's something I need to be worried about and take in to the dealership?
View 17 RepliesOur 2005 Prius with 160,000 miles is displaying warning lights and the gasoline engine is reving at times and not shutting off when the car is at a stop light.
The dealer says it is throwing a P3000 and P0A80 codes. I asked for subcodes, the dealer doesn't know what I am talking about.
The dealer wants to replace the hybrid computer for $900 and if that doesn't fix it they want to replace the hybrid battery for $3500.
This 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
I have 2011 SE (2.4L) that has a VERY noisy squeak that increases with the climate control's blower speed. The noise stops completely if the fan speed is set to OFF. It has been rectified twice by the dealer, who said they just vacuumed it out or something, that there was leaves/trash somewhere causing this. I don't even park near trees or anything! Anyway, my car is now out of warranty, how can i do this myself?
View 5 RepliesI have a squeaky blower motor in 96 laredo. Not bad..just enough to be annoying. What are the chances I can take it out and grease it rather than replace it?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2015 Sonata 2.0T limited, and there is a noise coming from the back, driver's side, after shutting off the motor. I've taken it in 3 times for this, and each time they say nothing is wrong; but, I've driven a lot of cars and trucks, and I've never heard a noise like this.
I'm guessing it's some kind of gas tank related valve that's closing, but it's making a very loud noise each time.
The car died on me the other day at a stoplight but started up again (It resisted for a sec but then caught). Now it's taking a bit to start and sounds very faint when it finally catches and the turn over is slow. I'm no mechanic but I can replace parts. I'm just wondering if it's the fuel pump or injectors, maybe low fuel pressure. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it. Where to start?
View 3 Replies2001 F-350 7.3L / 147K... Lately my truck has a strange anomaly when I take off from a stop. A few seconds into a routine gradual acceleration the engine gets a little "boost" without changing anything on the accelerator. I typically take off from a stop as if an egg is under my foot. And then bam! It's as if I romp down on the gas pedal. Not a lot of increase in rpm's and acceleration, just a hint. BUT NOTICEABLE! Even my wife wondered why I was playing with the accelerator. And, it only does it that first time you start it and take off. I had the glow plugs replaced last week. And it has done it occasionally before but increasingly since. No other changes other than pulling codes.
View 1 RepliesCheck motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
I have a 2014 Lexus ES300h. I just started noticing that after 2 to 4 hours after turning the car was turned off, I am finding what sounds like the electric motor running. There is a buzzing sound. I can turn the car back on for a few mins and then back off, the electric buzzing sound goes away.
Since owning the car, I've never found the car buzzing. It sounds like the electric motor is charging the batteries. Do I need to have this checked? I have 28k miles on my car and have never had an issue.
I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 2.4L 4-cylinder engine with 68,616 miles on it. It was running fine yesterday. Today I went to back up and I no longer have a reverse gear. I drove all the way to work in forward (10 miles) but get no reverse. What am I looking at here?
View 4 RepliesMy 1992 buick regal 3.8l initially cranked fine but did not start. I went to crank again and starter turned very slowly and finally just clicked got new battery and still same slow finally jumped it and got it to somehow start took it to shop they went to replace starter and told me that a weight had fallen off my flywheel/flexplate and lodged in starter so i agreed to let them replace flywheel starter 2 days later still in shop does this sound reasonable?
View 12 RepliesI just had the crank sensor replaced in my 1992 Buick Century (3.3L V6) because of abrupt hesitation and failure to restart. Because I had the sensor replaced twice before (10 years ago & 6 years ago), I recognized the symptoms and had my mechanic replace it. After running some local errands, I left the car outside for 2 hours before putting it away in my garage. I cranked it but couldn't restart it. I took the transmission out of park and put it back into park and the car restarted. Could there be some kind of transmission-connected safety switch that's intermittent? My mechanic says it's highly unlikely for the ignition module or computer to be intermittent. Once an electronic circuit malfunctions, it stays inoperable. That's why he replaced the sensor.
Also, what this trouble code means: "26 Quad-driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present."
I have a 92' Century w/107 K miles that has a medium rough idle. This is a summer use vehicle for me. I have done the normal maintenance on this motor w/ new plugs and a good Napa wire set. Any bad vacume lines that I can get at have been replaced including the vacume tree on top of the motor. Has anybody had coil issues or ground issues with this motor?
View 2 Replies92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
View 2 RepliesI first thought my issue might be the ignition switch or maybe the neutral safety switch but through some info I've come to realize that my issue appears to be from the anti theft system. I did a test where I turned key to start and backed off to run and then leave car for 10 minutes. I did this 3 times and it was supposed to go around the security system and then try to start but it didn't. I went through two trials with the same result. On the first of 3 times in each of the two trials the security light was not on but the 2nd and 3rd times it stayed on. I've heard this problem can be nearly impossible to trace and repair.
View 10 RepliesI just recently bought an R about a month ago. I am having a problem with my brakes. It seems that every time I hit the brakes and come to a complete stop my brakes scream with this annoying squeaky sound ... My car has a little over 800 miles haven't driven hard, or dogged the car just been taking it nice and smooth for a proper break in.
View 20 RepliesRecently my Camry has been shaking when coming to a stop and shutting off. It feels similar to when a car runs out of gas. I replaced the battery less than a year ago. I don't know where to start.
View 3 RepliesCar had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.
Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.