Buick - Regal :: 2001 - RPMs Will Drop And Car Will Jerk Forward
Jun 26, 2013
I have an 01 Buick Regal GS, 82k miles. When I baught the car it had 80k miles but had been sitting for a while. I put in a new battery and changed the oil as soon as I got it. When accelerating the RPMs will go up but the car won't accelerate as fast. The RPMs will drop and the car will jerk forward. And then accelerate better after it is warmed up a bit. I thought to give it some time and maybe it will go away. 2k miles later it is still doing it. What it could be?? I would like to see if I can fix it myself.
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I have a 2001 buick regal with the odometer lights out. How do I fix this? Do I have to take the dash off to get to the light?
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My Regal has no dash lights, I checked the 7.5 amp fuse inside car and it is good.
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2001 Buick Regal with approx 250,000 miles. 3.8L V6. Non supercharged It's my son's car. Used to be mine, I bought it with 19,000 on the clock.
The battery succumbed to the cold weather last Monday. On Tuesday, I put a new battery in, which itself now works fine. However, since then, the car refused to idle decently. It'll idle right after startup, but once you put it in gear, it'll die. When you start it, it seems to idle normally, you can let it warm up a bit and it'll settle down to about 900 rpm. BUT! Once you put it in gear, it'll stumble and die.
This problem started after battery replacement, so I have to wonder if it's somehow related to that. It ran fine before the battery died. I checked everything over thoroughly, and visually everything looks OK. No loose wires or hoses, etc.;
Today is the first time I've had to work on it since the new battery, so I thought I'd get it out there. I'm getting ready to go put a scan tool on it and will report back with those results.
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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2001 Buick Regal , 125000 miles ..
A couple weeks ago I notice that my car has started making some noise and has become a rough drive. Whenever I rev, especially between 0-30 mph, its like a mini jackhammer, or a sputtering/rumbling sound when I drive.
What it could be, and what I should do?
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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I own a 2001 Ford Explorer and have had the regular wear and tear but this problem has me stumped. A few months back I had to change the auto body gasket because the truck would not go into gear. After doing this the truck ran fine, I also changed the tranny fuild and filter. The other day i went to back up into the garage and the truck stalled and died out. it started right back up and it runs fine in all other gears. (P,N, D, 1,2, 4x4 high and low) and the over drive is working fine. when the truck is cool and hasn't ran in a while i can start it and the rpms stay at about 1000 th 1200 and the reverse works great. Now when the eng. heats up to normal and i put in in reverse the rpms drop to about 4 to 500 and it stalls out and dies. I have cleaned the mass air flow sensor, the throttle body, and the IAC valve but still dying out. Im thinking it may be a vaccume leak or the IAC is bad and cleaning just wont do the trick. I have also read that it may be the back up light wiring that hooks to the tranny may be shorted out.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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the wife's '01 Excursion has developed a new idling quirk. While sitting, it will briefly drop rpm's. You can hear it, and see it on the tach gauge. No other noises or problems, except for the brief drop in rpm's.
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I ran out and test drove a new to me 2001 F350 7.3L tonight. Everything seemed good, until I got back from the test drive. I pulled in and was sitting there with it idling. It seemed to idle fine, then a very small miss and very small shimmy then idle fine again; then another small miss and another shimmy. It continued like clockwork. Every time it seemed to miss and shimmy, the RPM would drop just a little, but not much. Does an ICP sensor sound like the problem, or maybe something more serious? 2001 F350 7.3L with 235,733 miles new trans, turbo replaced at 150,000 something miles. No blow by. Idled fine before driving, also drove fine. It doesn't seem to surge when idling, just kind stalls and shimmys for a split second then idles fine for a few seconds.
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I'm getting some vibrations from my '06 2.0T. The car tries to jerk forward at a dead stop, RPMs jump about 100-200RPM. It kinda feels like stalling a manual transmission, only milder. The car is burning a bit more oil than it should.
Many claim it could be a faulty PCV Valve. Since I'm a little on the broke side and my car is out of warranty, what should I look for to tell if the valve or the hose is faulty?
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek with about 170,000 miles on it. About 3 weeks ago, it began having problems when I would hit the gas to speed up. It would hesitate, and then jerk forward and go. Then about 2 weeks ago, I was driving on the highway and the engine just suddenly stopped - as if I had turned off the key.
There was no warning, no sound, nothing. I kept hitting the gas the whole time and it started up again after a minute. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran well for a week. Then it happened again, but this time the engine completely turned off and I had to turn the key to restart the engine. The engine started with no problem.
I tried to drive to the mechanic, but the engine stopped & started again on the way, so I ended up having it towed. It is not driving roughly or idling roughly, it doesn't make any strange sounds and no warning lights come on. When the engine stops, all electrical components are still working (lights, radio, etc.). My mechanic appears to be stumped. What could be causing this?
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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I drive a 1999 Ford X V8, 189,000 miles and it's been a great car. Lately tho, and in particular when the temperature is above 90, it begins to miss, hesitate, then jerk forward all at once. Some times, when the accelerator is depressed, NOTHING happens. No response form engine at all. This can last three seconds of so, then the car will lurch forward. I have done a 180,000 mile complete tune up, a, fuel induction system service, replaced the Mass air flow sensor and checked all points, plugs, new air filter, etc. Still, the problem persists.
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I have a Buick regal 1996 v6 3.8l . SO my car tends to over heat really fast with the reservoir still nearly full of coolant also my fans also turn on really late.. Ive came down to the conclusion that it might be the temperature sensor idk whatelse to do. Ive changed the thermostat about a month ago.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
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Here over the last week or so I've noticed my car start to have a bumpy ride around 35-42 ish mph, and around 65-70 ish mph. It feels worse probably around that 40 range, and seems to be even more pronounced during acceleration. It's not a super high frequency or anything, maybe just a couple hundred HZ. I have been driving it considerably more over the last month with my new job (around 140 miles a day, mostly highway/interstate driving). I've got an oil change/ fluids checked about 3 weeks ago or so.
2000 buick regal ls ......
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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