I have a '94 Camry that has not been started in a year. I'd like to either see if I can get it running again or donate it somewhere. But I heard recently that the onboard computer in a Camry has to be restarted if it's been idle a certain time. I've tried unsuccessfully to get any life signs when I tried to jump start it. Is this computer issue true?
View 6 Repliesok so i have a 1997 Honda crv 4wd 2.0l with 133k and its been sitting for over a year and a half. 5 months ago i decided to get it running so i replaced the battery changed the old oil and coolant and the power steering fluid and freed the brakes up and did a flush. The car started and ran fine. I drove it up and down the block fine no problems it had a little bit of gas right above the E mark when i stored it. SO 5 months ago i was going to insure the car but never did. now im trying to and it wont start.
Symptom Car turns over but does run. What i tired so far:
* Checked for spark by removing spark plug and ground it
* replaced battery
* sprayed engine starting fluid and can get the engine to run for a short time maybe like 20 secs if i keep spraying engine starting fluid in there but when i stop it stalls.
* recently put 5 gallons of fresh gas still nothing
I'm a Marine about to deploy to Afghanistan for a year. What I should do for my 2007 Honda Accord before I leave? I'm not planning to have anyone start it while I'm gone and it'll be in my garage while I'm gone.
My plan right now is to detach the battery and leave it. I'm going to buy an air compressor to put air back in the tires when I get back and I'll jump start it also since I'm anticipating the battery will be dead.
How I should leave it? Any recommended repairs before I leave? I just got the oil changed, transmission flushed, and throttle body cleaned since I just passed 60k miles.
When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
Variable idle. Ignition new as is air filter etc. Idles fine in neutral, a bit rough in drive, smooths out with AC on. Sometimes it's also fine with AC off. Sometimes not, literally stop to stop. Removed and cleaned IAC. Reinstalled with new gaskets etc. 30 ohm resistance between center and either side pins. Manual specifies 19.3 to 22 ohms. Is the 30 ohm reading enough variation to indicate a bad IAC in need of replacement?
View 1 RepliesSometimes when my car as sitting at an idle in either drive or reverse the motor starts to make a knocking noise from the back of the motor towards the firewall side on the top of the motor. I have a video. The car has 114k I just changed the oil I thought maybe it's low but it's not and hasn't moved since it was changed.
View 4 RepliesI bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
View 3 Replies1994 Mercury Villager, driving about 10 miles to work this morning I noticed the temp gauge sitting just under the H at about the 8.5ish mile mark. All driving is on city streets from 25-35mph. When I noticed the temp I turned on the heater hoping to assist with bringing the temperature down. The air coming out was mostly cold occasionally pushing out slightly warm for a few seconds.
I got to work and checked the hoses for a leak, squeezing both the upper and lower hoses they felt empty. I added about 1-2 cups of water to the radiator and it would take no more. Started the car up and the supply hose firmed up while the return hose still felt empty. Left it like that until the end of my shift.
Started the car up and checked for any leaks, all fluids appeared to me to be topped off and I could see no leaks. Started to make the trip home and at about the 7 mile mark the temp gauge drifted out of normal. Turned on the heater and the air came out cold. About a mile later I pulled over and shut the engine off for 15-20 minutes. Started it back up and it was sitting in the normal range again, but only for about a half mile and then it started going back up. I finally got it home with the needle between normal and H, maybe closer to H than that. Opened the hood and checked for any leaks. Noticed some anti freeze had come up through the cap on the reservoir. Checked and it was cracked open around the top. The two hoses on the other hand had pressure and were fairly firm/squishy.
Just checked the oil and around the cap on the valve cover and and the oil just looks a little old. (was told by a friend to look for chocolate milk color).
When my R32 is sitting at idle with the A/C on, I occasionally get what I can only describe as a high frequency "hum" or "moan". I've tracked the noise down to what looks like a sensor or valve on the A/C system, located in the rear of the engine compartment near the left (passenger) shock tower. Turing the A/C off, blipping the throttle, or putting the A/C in "ECON" mode will make the noise go away for the most part.
Is this the thermal expansion valve? And what the heck is causing the noise? Faulty TPV? Or low A/C refrigerant charge? It's annoying as heck and scares the crap out of people near the car.
What would cause and how to fix my Jetta. It will idle at almost 10 rpm sitting still? It also sputters as if trying to die. It has an after market air intake with a ktm air filter
View 4 Replies'04 Honda Civic-1.7LFirst the car started overheating only it was sitting in idle. As soon as you would go or if you revved the engine the needle would immediately drop after a few seconds. Replaced the thermostat. It seemed fixed, but started doing it again, put in a new thermostat incase other one was faulty. Still having same problem.The system was pressure testing and everything was fine. Then had the system flushed and new thermostat put in. It worked for about 150 miles and started doing the same thing.Brought it in for the water pump, the old one was corroded and warped so it seemed like the problem.
After about 100 or so miles still overheating when idle.We had the radiator replaced, the old one was complete junk, thermostat replaced too. I drove it like normal in town for a day, the next day it started overheating, this time it was doing it while driving, got to about 3/4 up. Turned the car off for a bit, and it didn't do it anymore on the way home.Today I was driving and it was fine for 4 miles, I sat idling for 1 minute, after driving 1 more mile it started overheating, temp gauge got to halfway.
I parked it for a bit and started driving, there was no heat coming from the heater, I had it full blast, nothing but cold air. The car started overheating again, once again halfway. Parked for about 3 minutes and then turned it on, temp was fine and it was blowing full heat out, the car temp was fine the whole way home, no more overheating.
The next step we will take is to replace the head gasket and/or heater core. Is there anything else that this could be? Literally the same week the overheating started, the rear lights were having issues and one time there was no power to the windows. Then the door locks would stop and then work again intermittently. The door locks no longer work at all. Not sure if it is just a coincidence, maybe everything is breaking at once. But there has been no loss of coolant and the oil and coolant consistency have been normal too.
I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
I have a 04 jetta 1.8t that just randomly started having some overheating issues. I just got the car two days ago, and the first day I had it I replaces the coolant temp sensor due to a check engine light. Drove 50 miles and the light shut off. Just yesterday I was sitting in traffic and noticed the temp going above 190 (which it hadn't done in the 200 miles id driven it so far). I brought it home and once I was out of traffic and moving along the temp went right back down to 190. The only time it tries to overheat is when its sitting still or at idle (after reaching operating temp). which is weird.
I was parked in my driveway and let it sit at idle for a few minutes until the temp started significantly rising. i revved it to 2000 rpm (thinking it would rise even more), but to my surprise it instantly went down to 190 again. my big fan isnt running either, but my friend said he doesn't run fans in his and that it shouldn't overheat because of the fan. also, my top hose is warm to the touch, but the bottom isn't. I know your thinking thermostat, but if that was the problem it would :
1: always overheat, or
2: never overheat.
The temp wouldn't fluctuate the way it is.
I have a 2012 Elantra that I bought used with 15,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I have had different issues with it but one of my huge issues is that when in idle at a light or sitting still anywhere my car shakes like someone is bouncing a basketball in it. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they have replaced PCV Valve and cleaned it before replacing it and they have done some other things as well to it. I have gone to just talking to the service manager every time I go to service because I have taken my car in for the same issue every time!! I usually wait til there are multiple reason to go to the dealership before I take it back in because they never fix the issue!!
View 3 RepliesI started noticing a strange idle when stopping or sitting at a red light. Upon stopping the car idles at around 600, then all of a sudden it jumps to around 1000-1100, and sits there as if I was giving it gas. As I drive off the car drives fine, once I stop again, the same thing repeats. This happen to me 2-3 times already within the past month, I mostly drive on the highway, so that might be a reason I don't notice it often.
View 5 RepliesIt is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
About two days ago a noise started happening when I sit at idle... The moment I touch the throttle it goes away. It's rather loud and disconcerting.
The video starts off in drivers seat, then I took the phone to where the vent for the defrost is, and then below the glove box. It's audible everywhere.
Went to start this 5.0 TC after it sat idle for a week, and it died within 3-4 seconds. Further attempts resulted in similar response. After some initial checks, I was able to keep the engine running by manually depressing the IAC plunger into the barrel. The engine ran fine as long as I could hold that, but stall immediately after release. Codes: TPS out of range; HEGO HO2S sensor out of range-always lean. Bought a new TPS no change.
Today: With the key "on" and engine off, the fuel pressure is a steady 38psi. There is an air release button on the fuel gauge line and when I pushed that, the gauge pressure dropped to zero and does not come back (until you key off and on again). I removed the IAC from its mount and with the key on--I observed the plunger move inside its body--guessing maybe 1/4 inch. I casually checked all the engine management items I see in books and looked at vacuum hoses and couldn't see anything amiss (also climbed on top of this engine and checked the rear--PCV lines etc.). I removed the fuel regulator vac line and observed no fuel leakage there.
I had my 2005 Prius sitting idle for three days and when I last used the car it had 6 bars of battery (blue). Today I turn it on and it has only 2 bars of battery (purple) and the engine stayed on about 10 minutes to charge the battery. After about 10 minutes it went all the way to 7 bars (green) and the engine did its normal idle stop. Is it normal for the battery to drain that much in only a few days?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a 2008 passat, 2.0T 6spd manual last night and I noticed today, when sitting at a stop sign it has slight idle issues, (goes up about 200-400rpms) then back down to normal idle. Doesn't seem to be causing any issues, its just pretty annoying, and everyone next to me thinks I'm trying to race them.
View 24 Replies