Camry :: 1997 Does Not Go Into Gear / Power Locks Do Not Work
Feb 22, 2012
Left my car on accessory overnight, went to get a jump in the morning, but a friend put the cables on the wrong ends, blowing everything up in the process.
I've swapped out the battery (battery is good), checked all smaller fuses (replaced almost all of them), but don't know where to go next.
Problems:1) Car does not recognize when car is started (ding does not go to half-time when car turns on, continues to ding when door is open as if door was open with the keys in the ignition and car off).
2) Power locks do not work
3) Dash Lights/radio/heater/accessory lights do not work, dome light does.
4) Car does not go into gear without manual bypass
5) Both low and high beam headlights work, ambers do not (unless hazards are on), taillights do not, brake lights do not. Haven't had the tools to check reverse lights.
Past that, everything runs smoothly and like a Camry should.
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I own 2007 Camry and my door won`t lock with remote and push button to lock the door. ONLY driver door will respond to remote and push button. When I lock it, only driver door will lock. Light lights up when I press remote. Trunk works fine.
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Toyota 2004 Camry door locks are working intermitently. I can only get in drivers door with door fob from outside. Inside, I can only unlock drivers door. Took to dealer and they said they tried the door fob and it work 50 times when they tried it. The key only works in the driver's side. The passenger side is very difficult to get to work. They said they couldn't do anything unless it was acting up. It does - when they are not there. Saw on line 2003 doors had a problem. What do I need to tell dealer to get them to fix this?
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I have a 2003 ford f150 supercrew. The problems that I am having is first, my door locks will unlock just fine on the key fob and on the door switch inside the cab but they will not lock at all. I've checked the fuses and everything and cant find the problem. it did this one other time then one day there was a pop from in the dash and they started working.
The second issue that I am having is my 4x4 doesn't work all the time. i turn the switch on the dash and the 4x4 light comes on and i can hear a click but then i have nothing so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was probably the shift fork but he wouldn't know til he took it apart. so i decided to hold off then the 4x4 worked fine for a couple weeks if it was my shift fork would my 4x4 still work sometimes? could these problems be related?
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The power door locks on my '99 Tahoe do not always work. Most of the time they all operate except for the front passenger door. It attempts to move, maybe halfway, but doesn't lock or unlock all the way. It works fine manually. The keyfob works the same way as the door switch. About 10% of the time they all work fine including the passenger door.
I've been told they might not be getting enough voltage due to loose connections. The connections look good as far as I can tell. What should I look for on my multimeter and where should I test it?
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I have a 2001 F150 2 door 2wd 5.4 engine. When I put it in gear the automatic door locks do not activate. The procedure for programming the remote does not work either. It calls for turning the ignition switch on and off 9 times, and the doors should unlock, so that procedure does not work either.
I took it to the dealer to have the BCM reprogrammed, they say there is no BCM in the vehicle. The codes they got says there is a door ajar, and the interior lamp relay DTC. I am not sure what the DTC means, forgot to ask.
The door warning light goes out when the doors are closed, and the interior light goes out. They do not seem to know how the system operates. I bought the wiring diagram.
From what I can see, closed lock switch connects directly to the GEM. The dealer told me there is two switches in the door. There is only one as far as I can determine. Ther are two plugs on the locking mechanism, on is for the remote lock, it works. So the lock closed switch is also working.
Reading this forum, I see several cases where people have changed the GEM, and that did not fix the problem. I can not see any other solution, as the door closed switch connects directly to the GEM, and the door open warning goes out, and the interior light goes out.
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So, this 2000 X-Limited that recently bought has an issue.
Power door locks. The drivers door is the only door that works, using either the remote fob or the rocket switch on the door. None of the other doors, or the rear lift glass work.
I have a hard time believing that ALL of the individual actuators in each door don't work.
Does the actuator in the drivers door act as a primary? Are all of the other actuators slaved through the drivers door? Is there a relay between the drivers door and the other doors that could be bad?
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After lurking here on FTE for the past several months, I finally had the opportunity yesterday to pick up a new to me 2002 Excursion Limited w/ 7.3 diesel engine. The kids (5yo twins) absolutely love it and even the wife is growing very attached
I think I bought it for a very fair price and it's in just about pristine condition with 110k on it. The previous owner took very good care of it and had just about a full maintenance history for the vehicle. The ball joints and tie rods were replaced at 90k and it still has the original tranny-it does shift very deliberately and solidly though. My first true mod will be to add the 6.0 cooler and a tranny filter to hopefully put off what seems to be the inevitable with the 4R100 transmissions. I'm not thrilled with the wheels/tires and plan on swapping them out asap along with the headlights/taillights.
If there is one particular issue so far, it's that the power door locks don't work. When the buttons are pushed (inside and out), there's absolutely no reaction - not even clicking to indicate that the actuators are bad/stuck. I've pulled the #19 fuse and it's fine - reinserting it doesn't reset anything. I'm wondering if the vehicle security module may be bd? How can I narrow it down to make sure it is indeed the problem before dropping the coin for it plus reset?
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2000 crew cab powerstroke 4x4... It's a XLT, six inch lift, weld wheels, BFG all terrain (50%). 277,000. One owner. Clean Carfax. All service done by purchase dealer. Mostly stock other than that. Dealer just replaced AC compressor and charged system. Interior is good, except for driver's edge seat. Good cleaning and ok.
The (my?) Truck.Downside. Power door locks make noise but don't work, remote mirror switch intermittent, stereo broken. During my test drive (alone) it drove straight, stopped straight and hard. 4x4 engaged and worked well. No noise in system. Good acceleration. No rattles or noises. Doesn't drip anything on the ground. Cruise and all accessories work.
I'm supposed to go in Monday. My girl is afraid of the mileage. But it seems well maintained for 17 years old. Is 10k an acceptable price? They wanted 11,900. Anything I should be looking for?
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Just picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
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My power locks stopped working completely (remote or switch, lock or unlock.) I didn't have any problems with them until 2 days ago, after work it wouldn't unlock.
The fuse is good (#3 under hood fuse box), I can't find the relays, but since there are 3 of them I don't think they are the problem. I have power at the fuse and 2 wires going to the PDL switch, I also have ground to 2 wires going to the PDL switch. It's probably as simple as a broken wire or corroded connector, but I'd rather not pull the whole dash if I don't have to, but I need to fix it so I can open the rear hatch which is locked and its lock cylinder is gummed up so I can't use the key.
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White 1997 Explorer XLT 4 door 4x4 4.0 sohc 220,000 miles. The power windows and locks don't work. I've tried all of them in the whole car and nothing. Replaced all fuses at the inside panel and replaced all fuses and relays under the hood. Replaced master control switch on the drivers side and still nothing.
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I have a 2006 Camry and the power locks keep clicking intermittently -- irrespective of car being running or not running. We have two remotes and this happens with both the remotes. Problem started a few days after the car was detailed. What can I do -- very annoying clicking noise while driving?
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I have a 2007 Camry LE and the locks on the passenger doors and back doors stopped responding to the remote key UNLOCK OR the driver side UNLOCK button. I have to manually unlock the three doors. However, the key LOCK and driver side LOCK button works fine. The issue is only with the unlock. I had the same problem couple of years back and it became alright on its own. Now am having the problem again. The strange thing is that, sometimes it all works fine and sometimes I have the issue. Whenever I click on the Unlock button once, the driver side door unlocks. When I click it again, i hear the sound in all the doors and also the indicator light flashes / I hear the beep sound. But the passenger door and back door doesn't unlock.
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2003 f-150 Supercrew 4x4 ... I have no power to my windows door locks, power seat, mirrors a/c, anything is the a module that controls all of that stuff? Where is it?
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Looking for a clue to what's going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
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While raising both front doors windows, both windows stopped moving. Checked power locks and they didn't work either. Manual said to reset circuit breaker for this problem but where it's located and the manual doesn't specify either. Just need to know where the circuit breaker for the power windows and locks is located.
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My remote locks only work intermittently when I press the buttons on the key fob. The locks on the drivers door and rear drivers side door also only work occasionally. If it turns out it's the module in the driver's door, is there a way to repair it? Or must it be replaced?
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This is a pretty strange situation. A couple of years ago, my automatic locks stopped working consistently in hot weather. Sometimes they'll work and sometimes they won't, but the worst thing is that they are inconsistent. I only have this problem in the summertime or on really warm days in the spring or fall (I live in Colorado). What could cause this?
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2004 4x4 super crew cab. Door locks don't work from switches, touch pad on drivers ext. door or with key fob. I checked the fuses and both the 10 amp and 30amp fuses are good. Where do I go from here. some time ago I had the submerged wiring issue and corroded connections in the bottom of the rear door rail. Could it be the same issue in the front door?
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