Camry :: 2003 Battery Drained / Open Door Indicator Flashing Rapidly With Clicking Noise
Nov 29, 2014
My 2003 Camry's battery was drained this morning and there was a rapid clicking noise. Upon further investigation, the clicking noise was in two places, a large red relay under the hood and also inside the car. The open door indicator was flashing rapidly in step with the clicking noise. The clicking stopped when I inserted the key into the ignition but it would not start.
I first tried removing the door open fuse but there was no change. I then removed the relay and the ECU-B fuse and all clicking stopped.
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Recently purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry with only 58,000 miles on it. Only one problem has showed up - the "door open" indicator stays lit - does get brighter when an actual door is open and shows which door but never goes all the way out. Sometimes it gets slightly brighter and dimmer, back and forth.
Sporadically when I start the car there is an audible clicking (cycling) back and forth that sounds like a turn signal coming from the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel. The only way I can get it to stop is by opening the door, closing again, open and close the locks, turn the engine on and off, etc.
Yesterday it continued while I was driving and eventually stopped on its own (and again today). Weird - I think it must be a fuse or a relay or something but I pulled all the fuses one by one and they all look good. Not sure where the relay is....The door open indicator never goes completely out though - sometimes it pulses all night long but doesn't seem to run the battery down or anything.
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For some reason, I didn't close my trunk door good last night and I discovered that the trunk remained open all night long, about 12 hours. I am worried that the trunk light may have drained my battery. The car started up just fine with no delays or odd noises.
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I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
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I've got an '05 burb that for a couple weeks now the interior lights will not come on when you open any doors. Just tonight I went to start it and it took a couple tries and finally did, but I noticed that the clock had been reset almost like the battery had been drained.
I drove it to my destination and just let it run for about 30 min thinking it needed to charge (nothing had drained it that was obvious to me). I had to go back out and it did the same thing, started hesitantly and the clock had been reset.
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Whenever I open the door to get out of the car after it locks itself the lock rapidly engages and disengages until I push lock or unlock on the key fob. I hope the actuator isn't going bad. And wanted to see if there was something I could do to fix it before replacing the whole thing.
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So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
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I had problems with the 12v battery, it was drained and I had to recharge it, which meant disconnecting the negative/ground/earth cable. Ever since the rear door opening button on the outside of the car won't work.
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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09 Camry steering wheel clicks when going over speed bumps or if turning the wheel left and right somewhat rapidly at a stop. Seems to not be as bad when the tilt is all the way down.
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It all began on my 1997 Camry when the driver's front turn signal began the rapid flashing thing, indicating to me that the bulb in the front was out. I replaced the bulb. The running light part works, but the flasher still does not. On the front passenger side of the car, the turn signal works, but the running light does not. I replaced the passenger side bulb at the same time I replaced the driver's side bulb. The flashing turn signal works as it did before, but the running light still does not go on.
The problem shouldn't be the bulbs - they are new. The flasher unit behind the fuse box should affect both lights flashing, so it probably is not that.
What thing or things can cause one light to flash for the turn signal but not be on constantly for the running light (passenger front side) and to work as a running light being constantly on, but not flashing as a turn signal (driver's front side)?
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I have my Ex parked in the driveway, as the weather has been nice and I've been taking my motorcycle everywhere.
I went to get something out of it the other day... Opened the door and it sounds like I've left the hazards on... There's a clicking coming from the dashboard and the overhead lights, and running board lights blink. If I shut the door, it stops.
Do I need to call in a priest?
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Intermittently, the blinker clicky noise will click rapidly when the blinkers are not on. If i turn the blinker on, it clicks at normal speed. When I turn it off it starts rapidly clicking. I filmed it and put it on youtube. It is linked below.
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I just bought a 2007 Camry XLE V6 with push button start. When I push the button:
1. the gauges light up
2. I hear a loud motor (gear) noise
3. noise stops and the engine starts up like normal. No unusual sounds.
4. I push the button to stop the car and the still no noise -- engine shuts off as expected.
5. NOW, when I open the door, I hear the same motor (gear) noise I heard in #2....the engine is off at this time..
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, and the door open indicator will intermittently turn on and off. I isolated the problem to the trunk, and unplugged the trunk latch assembly so that the trunk dome light doesn't drain my battery. Before I unplugged it, my key fob could open the trunk remotely. I can still manually open my trunk using a key or the lever next to the drivers seat. Is there something on the latch assembly that I can check if it's triggering?
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My 5 month old 2015 Prius develops a problem. Once in a while when driving at night, the door open indicator and dome lights will come on for a moment and off right away. I assume it is cause by a loose connection or faulty sensor. Before I take the car to the dealer, is there something I can check?
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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I have a 1998 VW Passat: The windows go down by themselves
Door locks are clicking
Hazard lights are flashing
The car isnt always running while this is happening, key is not in the ignition. Car can be unlocked or locked and it still happens.
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i just purchased a 2010 Camry i4 wtih 80k miles on it and it was involved in a accident with front end damage.
When i first turned on the car i noticed the radiator fans werent turning on so i took it to my mechanic who also noticed there was a leak coming from the water pump (after reading this a common problem with these cars) My mechanic took care of the radiator fans coming on (said it was some pinched wires probably from when the car was in a accident and that the fans were replaced prior to me buying the car) but said that my battery light is on and has checked the charging system of the car and everything looks fine.
He told me to drive around a few days and maybe its just the battery undercharged. Is there anything that i should look for before i go back to the shop such as common things ex:wiring or trouble shooting steps to go trough on these cars?Will hooking up a OBD II scanner give the exact codes to what exactly is causing the problems?
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My new 2013 Ford Focus is a making a very, very strange noise every time I open the door. The Ford dealer said it's normal for the type of trans and handed me the following statement: " ....vehicles equipped with the Powershift DPS6 transmission may experience a clicking noise from the transmission after the doors are unlocked, opened and prior to the engine starting, for up to 3 min.
The noise is the shift motors waking up and preparing for startup. Attempts to eliminate the noise should not be made." To make it easier to understand the situation, the following link from a YouTube video explains EXACTLY what is occurring: [URL] .....
Hearing such a ridiculous sound/concept about waking up a transmission. Note, this noise even happens when you open the passenger door. Why does the transmission need to be waked up for someone getting in the passenger side. The car cannot be driven from here.
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Dashboard light is flashing. Sometimes it flashes sometimes it doesn't:no real pattern. It just started with no accident or jarring.
1998 F150 5.5 V....
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