Camry :: 2003 - Burning 1quart Oil Every 1,300 Miles?
Sep 24, 2013
No noticeable oil on the ground and there's no noticeable exhaust smoke. I have 207,000 miles on it and don't have any intention of making any major repairs. Usually using Castrol or Quaker State regular 0w-30. I'm the original car owner that keeps a 5 quart oil jug handy.
However, where the oil "might be" going and is there an additive that I may could use to slow the oil usage down?
I drive about 225 interstate miles and about 175 surface street miles weekly.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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So I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra which was given to me by my family and it's main issue is how much oil it is burning constantly. I find the car to be a lot more safer and reliable than my previous vehicle a 98' ford taurus. I have my 1 year old son with me daily so his safety is my #1 concern especially when we are in the car so whatever I must do to fix this issue, I am ready though I am hoping to not have to replace the engine. The car is currently at 176,653 miles as of right now. I have done a lot of research on this issue in these past months and this is what 'lve come up with.
I have seen a lot of blogs regarding similar issues that their nissan sentra was burning massive amounts of oil due to the manufacturer's precat. It has been said to relieve the vehicle from its oil burning issue to change the precat to a header so one of my questions is would you find that to be the most reasonable answer, to change the precat to a header?? I was told the precat in my car had been changed previously so I inspected the car myself due to finding the mechanic had replaced the precat with another precat thus making no change to the issue at hand. I am getting really tired of feeding my engine oil when it just guzzles it down in a day or two. Here are some questions i have:
Would changing the precat to a header be the most reasonable solution to ridding this oil burning problem?? (if thats the case this would really relieve me over the stress i endure from this car)
I currently use SAE 10W 40 High Mileage engine oil; the owner manual says to use A) SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil for all temperatures & B) SAE 10W-30 or SAE 10W-40 if the ambient temperature is above 0*F so after using choice B, would changing now to SAE 5W-30 be a good idea?
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I have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
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My 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
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I have a brand new 2012 BMW 650, production date Nov 2011, and took delivery in December 2011. The low oil light indicator came on at 3300 miles 4 months later. Took it to the dealership and I reported to the service advisor that the car had a clanky (like a fan was hitting it's surrounding metallic covering) noise for 1-2 seconds on cold start and then disappears. I also told them that there was excessive soot noted on the passenger side exhaust tip. I was told by the dealership that this was normal oil consumption.
The dealership put in one quart of oil and told to monitor the oil consumption. At near 6600 miles and 3 months later the low oil light indicator came on again. Took it back to the dealership and the service advisor told me everything was normal and again added another quart of oil. The odometer is now at 8500 miles and the oil level indicator shows half full at 1900 miles later. I keep my cars for a long time and the first oil change is at 15,000 miles. I am sure I don't want to mess with adding a quart of motor oil every 3-4 months. I would not have bought this car if I was told or made aware that this was normal oil consumption.
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I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
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I have a 1997 Toyota RAV4 with 137,500. I got it in 2004 with 93,000 miles. Since I've had it, it burns about 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so. I don't think it's been getting worse since I've had it. I had the compression in the cylinders checked last year, and the compression's good in all four of them. What the problem might be? It the problem worth repairing, or should I just keep adding a quart of oil every 1,000 miles? Also, does burning oil damage other parts of the car?
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I have a 4 cylinder 2003. When we drive on the street less than 40 miles per hour all is fine. But when we go faster than 40 a bad vibration starts and gets worse the faster we go, but only when you step on the gas pedal. For example, if your doing 50 and step on the gas there is a bad vibration from the front but if you release the gas pedal there is no vibration.
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My 2013 Subaru outback four-cylinder is burning 2/3 of a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It is not leaking anywhere so I know it is burning the oil. The dealership says I need to replace the engine, I'm just wondering is it bad on anything else in the car if I keep driving it for a little while before replacing it? how much longer I could go?
FYI: The power train warranty is void because of rear end damage and a rebuilt title.
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About every 3000 miles my 93 xfi keeps roasting the back pass. side wheel bearing. It will start to howl so load you can't hear the radio over it.
When I changed the rear brakes I took off the spindle nut and I swear I messed the threads up or something causing this problem. I have torqued it to 129lbs like the manual says and it still does it.
Maybe I'm not packing the bearings well enough, or using wrong kind??
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I've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
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OK, updating my test with my 2006 127k mile engine burning oil. After 2 OCI with MMO added to the oil, it has not improved the oil burning. I was using 3 quarts 5w30 oil and added 1/2 quart of MMO. Oil burning seems to be about 1 quart 1500 miles or so. I believe before this MMO test, the car was burning around 1 quart every 2000 miles or so.
This may be because the oil has been thinned out by MMO but not really sure. Next OCI, I will be using Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w30, because I heard that oil has exceptional cleaning power.
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My 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
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I just recently purchased an 07 Camry V6 with the 2GR-FE engine. I looked at the dipstick over the weekend and was surprised to see it was a quart low. I asked a friend about this and he informed me that Toyota engines are notorious for burning oil. Is this true? I previously owned a 94 Camry V6 that did not have this problem. Also, is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening, or slow down the burning.
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I have a 96 camry that has a minor oil leak. I have taken it in to get checked, and the mechanic told us that as long as I'm willing to keep putting oil in it every month, I don't have to fix anything. However, lately the car has been making a burning smell, especially when I turn on the heater, and when the car is low on oil. Also, my oil cap has some yellow gunk on it. I'm concerned that this means water is mixing with my oil.
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My mom's 02 Camry is burning oil and I can hear something rattling. The car has 177k miles and my mom bough it new and always cheap out on it. I have looked under the car and do not see any obvious oil leaks. When the car starts after siting overnight you can see a small blue puff come the tail pipe but I have not seen any blue smoke after start up. I have uploaded a video of the rattling here. I had my bother start the car with the hood open but I could not hear any rattle. So I started the car and move it little to start the rattle.
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2004 V6 XLE Power Steering Leak *pics* ... The problem now? Car doesn't start. I've done all the 'usual' checks and I am totally baffled.
So I was dropping my friends off at night. When I had the car in reverse to get out of the parking spot, turned off my AC and drove to park my car on the road. My ears heard something 'different' from my engine, like a 'wurrrrr' noise. I first thought it was my power steering pump was making noise (see my previous thread why). I pulled on the side of the road this is what happened.
I open my hood to determined my fluid for PS was OK. I noticed a 'burning' smell like something rubber was burning or metal getting super hot. I turned my car off and restarted the engine. The car cranked but it crank very slowly, lights dim and it started almost like a weak battery. Maybe battery? The 'wurrr'/buzz noise was coming from the belts area and was RPM related. Car did rev fine without any hesitation. [URL] ....
As I had the car on for a minute to take a video (below), I was in my car when I noticed light smoke coming from the right side (drive belt) area. I immediately turned off my car and attempted to see where the smoke was coming from.
After 10 minutes, I wanted to see if it would still start. Nope. Just rapid clicking of starter (See : [URL] ....)
It was dark so I couldn't do much (iPhone w/ flash light app), but I did check all what I could above and below the engine. I didn't see any burn wires or grounding either. So I was thinking...
-If AC or Alternator seized up/locked up, the car would still start but belts would burn, right? Same with power steering?
-Timing belt torn or tensioner sized? If belt torn, engine would crank freely though? Tensioner would usually just make a bad noise, right? Wouldn't really account for the 'weak' starting prior I think?
-Electrical problem such as a short within alternator/ac compressor....
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Lately my 2002 v6 has been smelling like it's burning oil from under the hood. Around the front exhaust manifold, there's a wet black "powder" type substance. Oil levels are fine and the car has also been driving without any issues. The car hasn't overheated but then again, I live in NJ where the temperatures don't go above 35F.
I'll be posting a picture tomorrow.
The car has 144k and the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs were done at 120k.
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Our 2002 Camry SE V6 incurs a burning odor through the HVAC system after braking from moderate or higher speeds (at low speeds, this does not happen). It can last for a few seconds or a few minutes and then goes away (it does not happen while in motion). I cannot smell anything outside the car.
The car was inspected & serviced two months ago with no issues found. The front valve cover was replaced about a year ago but the back valve cover was OK to leave as is.
I would want to say it is the brakes or the snow tires causing the odor but it is strange it only smells inside the car.
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