Camry :: 2004 - Ticking Noise After Idling For A Few Minutes
Oct 11, 2012
[URL] .....
What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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2004 Prius with 109,000 miles. It's been in an accident before (and you can tell, the front right fender is a bit misaligned and the doors have a paint covering abrasions).
However, the car is making a ticking noise every minutes or so. The sound is originating in the Hybrid Synergy Drive converter inverter box and about every minute for about 5 or 7 seconds or so there will be a ticking or clicking noise. This happens when the car is idling, driving, and even a minute or two after car was shut off. The mechanic next door to the dealer didn't know what it is and the dealer is giving me a 30 day. What could this clicking be?
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I have a 2004 XLE V6 that just recently has started a clicking/ticking noise coming from the dash around the passanger side/glove box area. It sounds like a small electrical relay noise randomly making/braking its contacts. At first I thought it was the CD player (you know how it clicks when changing/loading CDs), but it happens with the radio turned off.
The noise does not have any definite rhythm and it's not coming from the engine, but only makes the noise when the engine (and A/C) is running. I've noticed the noise will go away after the interior temperature cools down. What is causing this clicking/ticking noise?
Since I have a XLE with the digital temperature control, is there a temperature sensor located somewhere that feeds a signal to the A/C controls for the cabin temperature to automatically adjust the cabin temperature/fan speed, etc.?
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My wife's 2005 Mazda 3 had a bit of a noise on cold start and our mechanic thought it was connected to an intake manifold flap malfunction. Now I notice it seems to have a constant ticking noise at idle. If one of the electrical connections near the intake manifold is disconnected the noise stops. Another forum suggested that connection goes to the solenoid valve. They think that valve may be stuck open and when the connection is taken away it closes and the noise stops. At least that is what I was able to extract from the discussion. Does that make sense? The solutions I saw recommended were to either replace the intake manifold or replace the solenoid valve or don't do anything because it's not harmful other than the motor may lose a little bit of power.
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My R is starting to make some noise when idling in neutral. It's the stock clutch with 135k on it and its starting to sound like it's a single mass flywheel. Ya know kinda like cogs ticking/slapping more that normal. I've done some searching/researching to find something that sounds the same but nothing seems exact.
No hamster wheel squeaking. It's very subtle, can't hear it while standing outside the car but I can when I'm sitting in it. The clutch pedal feels the same too. I've also noticed that first and second gear make more noise than it normally has in the year I've owned it.
Is this just time to change the clutch and throw out bearing? I'm driving to Denver from Minneapolis next week. Should I park it for the trip?
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When the engine is cold and I start it, everything is just perfect. After 2 to 3 minutes while idling I start hearing a clicking noise, which is not loud, but I don't like it. I'm sure that there was no noise before. I cannot locate the exact location but it is surely somewhere near the air filter. When I'm close to the front right wheel the noise is most clear and when I lean back behind the wheel.
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I have a 2004 Camry (2.4 Ltr engine) with 120k miles on it. 2 days ago a whistling/whining noise began after I had been running errands & restarted my car after being parked for about 20 minutes.
If my car has been sitting and the engine is cold (like when I get up in morning to go to work) the noise doesn't start until it gets to the 3rd line above the "C" on the temp gauge. It's a constant sound while idling or driving, except when I am accelerating. The noise seems to be originating from around the alternator, but hard to tell exactly. I have no Check Engine, battery or other indicator lights showing. Other than this mystery noise my car is running fine.
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I posted about the f 350 cam lob and lifter wearing on the ford 460 ci engine, what all the causes might be. we used the cam lube but got a ticking within the first 10 min of running.
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I get it at random times but for the life of me can't figure it out. I thought it had to do with the locks or something, only notice it in the first 15 minutes of driving the car.
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I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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You know the ticking noise that is normal for our engines? Well, below 25 degrees F, it is the most worst noise ever. It sounds like the valve train is going to explode. Just keep in mind I've driven many cars. The ticking noise shouldn't be outrageously loud.
But my main problem that is worrying me is this WHOMP-WHOMP-WHOMP noise. The higher the RPM the faster the noise. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or not and I know it's coming from the engine. I hope it's not related to the loud ticking. It only happens for approximately 5 minutes. After that, there's no WHOMP sound and the ticking goes back to normal sound levels.
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2007 f150 5.4 supercrew, average temp for the last 2 weeks was -27. I plug the truck in all night it starts good and idles down fast engine is warm. no heat after idling for 3-5 min and then try to drive it takes another 5 min for the temp gauge to hit full temp 192. then my windows fog over even the dash and there is minimal heat coming out takes another 10-15 min to clear the windows. what the "F". fulid levels up, winter front on, block heater works, not using or smelling antifreeze, brush off every last speck of snow and I still have to pull over on the highway and wait......should have kept my 95 5.8l.
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This car has only done 105,000km. Very well looked after and regularly serviced. The car does around 10,000km/yr so I get it serviced the same time every year. Last service was June 2013. I've had this ticking noise for quite a while now. It's not just at startup, it's continuous. Was first picked up during a service and most likely cause was that it needed valve adjustment. I've never had any dashboard warning lights and the car has never run low on oil, I check the oil myself, at least every 2 weeks. The noise has gradually gotten worse, particularly this past few weeks. The noise is somewhat similar to this, not quite the same: [URL] ..... (I will post my own vid as soon as I can)...
I've just had the valve clearances checked and some other diagnosis. All valve clearances were within spec and were all even, and slightly loose (being slightly loose is a good thing I believe). The internal condition of the engine was very clean, shows no evidence of wear or slugging. Chain tensions and quids test OK. Inspection of the VVTi solenoid showed no visible fault and was quite clean, no holes blocked or anything like that.
The noise is loudest around number 2 exhaust valve in the top of the engine. The mechanic says the next step is to remove cam shafts and inspect the VVTi actuator and valve shim buckets. No firm quote on this but minimum $3k, and possibly $5k to diagnose and repair. Those rough quotes seem way over the top to me, are they? Can't you put a new engine in for that sort of price?
I've researched this ticking noise and found a few camrys with similar issue. One was solved by replacing the OCV (VVTi solenoid). My mechanic said the solenoid looked fine, clean and no blockages. With the solenoid out the dashboard warning light came on, so it seems the VVTi system is working. I'm thinking there might be a problem with the solenoid even though it looks OK, thought it might be worth puttiing a new one in just to see. Thoughts? I guess this camry also has a separate OCV filter but the mechanic had no reason to suspect that would be clogged so he didn't check it.
Another cause I found through research was wear on the VVTi actuator, something to do with wear around the lock pin area. I thought this camry had this lock pin set up on the VVTi actuator but my mechanic says it's a different system using a spring or something. Mechanic says cost of the actuator alone is around $2.5k, does that sound right?, sounds completely over the top to me. Mechanic's gut feel is that the problem is not with the actuator. He's actually at a loss and next step is to strip it down, the cost seems very high though.
One other thing, and I could be imagining this, is that the engine bay seems to get exceedingly hot these days. It may have always been like that but I don't think so. I'm half expecting the thing to blow any minute.
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I have an 07 Camry with an I4 engine and there are times when I am driving with the two front windows down and I hear a ticking/clicking noise coming from the engine as if the engine is brittle.
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Here is the thing, this did not start until after I got a coolant flush, and went to get some gas. I was thinking dirty fuel injectors, so I put the Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in with the next full tank of gas, and it didn't do anything.
There is a ticking sound, and the car sounds like a freight train chugging. The car still runs and still has great performance than ever before (due to the new plugs)
Here is what I have done:
Ran motor flush
Changed oil + Lucas Oil Additive
Changed all 4 Spark Plugs (replaced crappy Autolite with NGK Platinum)
Changed Power Steering Fluid (flushed)
Changed Coolant (flushed)
Cleaned the throttle body and intake
Drained through and filled up gas again + Lucas Fuel Stuff
You can't really hear it from inside the car, and it only seems to be happening after the car has been warmed up. It does not happen during a cold start at all (in the mornings).
The ticking sound stopped for a bit when I ran the motor flush, and changed the oil. Now the sound is still there, but it is A LOT less annoying than before. The car also has A LOT better performance with the new plugs, I seem to be able to take off a lot better at lights.
Here is what I still need to do:
Change the engine air filter.
Double check the throttle body and intake.
It is a 2004 Camry with 182,000 Miles. The ticking didn't start until after it came back from the shop, which has me suspicious. Shop claims nothing is wrong, which is a load of BS.
What I am thinking:
Stuck valve
Lifters
STILL dirty intake (shop could have done nothing and charged me for it)
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2008 Camry SE V6 with sunroof ticking / creaking / moonroof structure noise. Car has 50K miles on it. Has been in 1 slight driver side scrape accident but no crunching. Dealer says it's about 6.5 hrs labor to fix since my car is way passed the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty. TSB doesn't extend it at all.
TSB is T-SB-0088-12
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I just bought a 2012 Camry SE V6 about 2 weeks ago. This week, I have noticed a steady clicking or ticking sound coming from the passengers side front wheel (or so it sounds to be from there). Not feeling any vibrations or anything like that and I have checked the tire(s) for rocks or nails to no avail. The sound is not present at speeds lower than 50mph (that I can hear anyways) and seems to get slightly louder in volume as speed increases from 50mph (though there is no increase seemingly in frequency of the sound) and if the passengers side window is up it cannot be heard at all. What was the ultimate solution? I want to be able to drive my Camry with pride but it's hard when all I can hear is the ticking noise with my windows down.
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I have an 08 camry v6 with 31K. I noticed when I got off the highway after driving for about a 1/2 hour the engine had a loud vibrating/ticking noise when I stepped on the gas. This morning when the car was cold and I drove it locally it was fine, i also checked the oil and it's clean and full. Not sure what's going on. Also this only happened after I had the whole car painted not sure if it's related since I dont know if they take parts off to paint a whole car.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
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It is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
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