Camry :: 2005 - At Startup RPMs Keeps On Dropping And Stalls?
Mar 11, 2012
I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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We have an older Camry (1996 V6) with 159K miles on it that we are going to use for my gf's daughter's first car. It sat unused for a while and her father is giving her the car. The issue is that when you initially start it you have to keep the foot on the gas or it will stall. It does a bit better when it warms up but it can still stall if you let off the gas quickly. The plug wires look quite new so I expect the plugs are new as well (will confirm with her dad). I pulled the throttle body and it doesn't seem to be very dirty but I will clean it anyway and change the air filter. What I did notice is when I pulled the vacuum line (I'm guessing that's what it is, I am not mechanic) it was split longitudinally through the clamp. I am going to replace the hose but am wondering if the throttle intake is fairly clean if this could be the cause of the rough idle. I've watched a video on-line that shows how to clean the throttle body.
The battery looks fairly new but I don't have my voltage meter to test it. I have cleaned all the connections because I have heard that a weak battery or bad connection can also affect the way the engine runs. This Camry doesn't have a voltage meter, only a dummy light. The light doesn't come on so I'm thinking we don't have a problem with not getting enough power to the computer.
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My truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
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I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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When I start my '05 Camry (4 cyl - SE) it revs up to 2K, though only briefly. I don't like to go over 1,000 rpm until it's warmed up. Toyota dealer says that's normal ... Would it hurt to try it with the cold start (water temp) sensor unplugged ?........
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Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
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My truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
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My wife's 05 Camry when starting revs up to 2200 rpm for 4 seconds or so: then drops down around 8-900. Should I be concerned ? if so, is it adjustable ?....I dont like to rev my engine for at least 45 seconds.
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1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
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RPM's are dropping way off when coasting downhill while towing (as if the motor shut down), CC is on and maintaining desired speed. When at the bottom of the hill, all of a sudden, with a big bang(in the motor) the rpm's have came back up and you drive on down the road as normal. This seems to happen only when towing. "99 F250 7.3 I haven't pulled any codes as of yet. Whats happening?
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I recently started noticing that when I am coming to a stop(usually a quick stop), the trucks rpms drop to low. hard to tell how low but looks like around 450-500 rpms. I can feel the truck struggle just for a second then the rpms bounce back to 650-700. i was sitting in my truck while in park and was revving up to about 1200 and then let off the pedal and it died. My positive battery terminals are getting pretty bad and am going to replace them soon(waiting on parts). Could this be the cause?
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T and have had a check engine light for the past month or so. I was finally able to get it to one of my local mechanics who specializes in german made cars. He showed me where one of my vacuum lines had split open, then proceeded to splice the line with a t-fitting and a new length of hose and then reset the check engine light.
Well, the engine light has stayed off, but now when I start the car, it almost stalls out right after startup, then proceeds to idle and run fine. The mechanic thinks that since the car was running for so long with that vacuum leak that the ECU needs to to "reset" itself to the different pressure.
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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So I'm nearing my wits end. I have an '11 GTI DSG, CCTA, second owner. The problem has been happening as soon as I bought it, when it was only 6 months old.
When the engine is not fully warm, but warm-ish, the engine doesn't reliably start on the first try. I have KESSY, so I push the start button and hold it. When I release it (not too soon, mind you) the engine will idle very rough. The tach will bounce between 200 and 700 rpm. Sometimes the engine will die completely. Other times, the idle will stabilize at the right engine speed after a few seconds of roughness.
It seems like this happens most often when the car has been parked for 1 to 3 hours. However, I have had it happen very rarely when cold as well as minutes after parking. But definitely it seems to happen mostly when it has been allowed to cool slightly for 1-3 hours.
I've got youtube videos. I'll post links. I've contacted VWOA. I have a case. They tested the fuel system and believe everything is okay. They told me they suspected bad gas. I religiously used Shell 93. So they, under warranty, flushed the fuel tank. Okay, so I switched to Chevron 93. Well, the problem still happens!!! As far as I know, no parts have been replaced yet.
My car is at the dealership now, they called me today and want to give up. This would be the 5th time I've taken it in for this problem.
One thing I forgot to mention. When the engine has just started and is idling roughly, if I stab the gas pedal a little, it will bring up the revs to 2-3000rpm and 90% of the time the engine will then settle into a smooth idle immediately after the revs drop. It's almost as if the mixture is so rich that it has got the plugs wet (if this were carbureted, that'd be the first thing I would suspect)
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I have a 2005 Avalon LTD and the gas mileage dropped from 24+ to 18 seemingly overnight. I don't have a check engine light on. The car seems to be running fine. The only thing I notice is that when sitting at a light or just with the car idling, the avg mpg just keeps dropping. I just had filled the tank and it reset to 12.1 mpg and I sat there for a couple minutes with it idling, and the avg mpg dropped to 9.1. BTW, the car has 132000 miles. Spark plugs changed at 100K, PVC at 105K.
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I have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
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My Bluetooth was causing crackling and dropping of audio. I couldn't figure out what was causing it. Eventually I made the connection: the brakes. Every time I braked, the Bluetooth would crackle and drop (but not disconnect).
I purchase car a month ago certified from a Toyota dealer.
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I had my license revoked for a year so my baby had sit for a year with know one to drive it.. now before i had to put her in storage she ran fine no problems what so ever.. I would time to time start her up for a while over the winter but because of family problems there was a time where she sat for couple months without starting and letting her run. Now when i had the time to do it it was like i walked up and got into a whole different car, here is what i got going on....
Go to start it up and she will idle up to 600rpms then die out i would have to give it gas to try to start her but the thing is i can only go up to 2k rpms or it will just auto drop down to about 800rpms. i would usually have to floor it all the way to even get it to stay idle by her self its not as bad anymore but still does it. Also it smells like gas like crazy when it starts up,i had a half of tank when i kept her in storage so idk if its just bad gas doing this but seems like a lot of problems just for having bad gas in it, and she puts out smoke white smoke..now i know shes running rich because me and a buddy looked into it. also there is a crazy sound since shes been sitting that has never happened before it sounds almost like the belts need to be lubed up but the belts are fine and its loud from under the front bumper my friend said he thinks i blow my turbo but I don't see how that could be just from sitting for time to time.. the car and motor has a shake to it as well.
I tried to drive her up and down my hill a couple times to see if i can just break some cob webs loose or anything but you give her gas she barely once to go and if she does she get to 2k rpms then die down and hardly moves and if i floor it to the ground it takes a bit to get up and going but then drives seeming like nothing was wrong. I have never had any of this issues before I put her for storage and now i have 4 weeks till I get to roam the streets again but sadly my b5 is dying on me.
Motor specs: Stock 1.8t 75k miles 5 speed tiptronic 1999....
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When you start the car the theft system light comes on and then the car stalls. This has been a continuous problem for about two years. I can't find any pattern to when it does and does not start. Sometimes it will start again the next try, sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes I have it towed to the pontiac dealer after a week of not starting. Recently I have had the cluster sent out twice to check for problems, a new lock cylinder, and the bmc replaced. (about $1,150 total) This was done by a certified pontiac garage and the problem is still not fixed so I dropped it off again last night. Any suggestions? Also is there a point where I should get reimbursed for having parts replaced that were not broken? I have to believe that if the problem is still happening then there was nothing wrong with the lock cylinder or the bcm.
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I have a 07 accent coupe That is giving me a little bit of trouble. This morning when I started the car, it ran for about a minute and then quietly stalled. No hesitating or sputtering, just turned off as if I turned the ignition off.
So I tried to restart but it won't fire, i can crank it just fine and I have gas, so I'm not sure what could be the problem.
Sometimes though, when I fill up my gas tank. The car will splutter and try to stall for the first 30 seconds. I have to keep the throttle-up to keep it from stalling. But that only happens occasionally when I fill the gas tank.
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