Camry :: 2006 Cold Startup / Rpm Jumps To 2k
Oct 8, 2012
Cold starts only (warm starts completely fine), typically the rpm jumps to 2k or so then slowly climbs down as engine warms up. However recently one in ten start ups the rpm will jump to 2k then immediately drop to 1.5k (sounds like a drop in rev engine) or so. Engine does not shake or stall and still starts fine. Throttle body is cleaned and spark plugs were all replaced. However I cannot remember if this started happening before throttle body was cleaned or if its not related with it at all. Battery is fine too or according to battery charge test. I don't see any loose hose that were taken off while getting to throttle body. I recently tried fuel injector cleaner but didn't make much difference (only 1 application though).
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Could not find anything about this on a search. I have 2 Sonatas. An 08 and an 09 both are 4cylinders. The 09 was purchased used in June of this year. With the colder weather setting in I have noticed that the 09 when started from cold jumps to 2500 rpm and settles to around 1000rpm for a short time then slows down a bit more to what I think is the normal idle speed. My 08 never goes that high and settles down to a normal idle quicker. If I read correctly the 08 and 09 have different air metering systems. Is this idle thing normal or am I dealing with an issue?
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My 2011 Camry LE I4 with 21k miles has a slight knock after cold startup, at Idle for a few minutes that disappears after warming up. If you start and drive and don't let it warm up the knock, under load, is more pronounced.
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2014 Camry SE i4 20,500 miles ... Is it normal to smell gas coming out from the exhaust during a cold startup? After the car is warmed up the smell disappear ...
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I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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There was a TSB for 2AR engine, Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. My question is for those I4 camry owner, do you have these rattle sound when you start your vehicle at cold? I am not sure if mines have the same issue, but pretty sure is I can't find any differences between mine and this clip:
You Tube
So should I take it to the dealer? Or it's normal?
[URL] .....
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I start noticing a weird noise upon cold start up. It sounds like something is grinding. First goes starter sound and then engine noise together with this grinding noise. Grinding noise goes away within sec. or so. It is not really loud, but it definitely not engine or starter sound.
It happens only on cold starts when engine is completely cold. If I start engine, let it run for few minutes, shut it down and restart again, it starts without grinding noise. Don't remember if car was doing it from beginning, never turned car while I was outside. Few weeks ago when temperature dropped below freezing point, I turned ignition through passenger door to warm up the engine.
After that I begun listening every start up. Every start up same noise. Every morning and every time after work I hear this noise. No noise if car been driven recently or engine is still warm.
Not my car, but sound is identical : [URL] ......
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1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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Need to determine the noise before I took the vehicle in to be serviced. I don't know if I would necessarily describe this as grinding...to me it doesn't sound like metal on metal..but it's not normal.
Only happens on a cold startup, and even then it hasn't been 100% of the time...probably 80% of the time though.
2007 Hyundai Sonata - Startup Noise - YouTube
I found this thread, Grinding Sound On Statup but not sure it's the same issue. This just started. Vehicle has 150K miles on it.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata 2.4l with ~235,000kms (~147,000 miles). It has been well maintained and has been a great car. It has been developing an engine tick noise at cold startup and it seems to be very gradually getting worse over time. This noise is most evident immediately after strarup and gradually dimishes over a period of about a minute and varies in terms of how noisy it is and how long it lasts. This nopise is never heard when the engine is warm. From what I have read online, this can be caused mainly by two things:
- use of an aftermarket oil filter
- timing chain tension insufficient
Late last week I changed the oil filter out from the Purolator Classic filter that I have been using for years to a genuine Hyundai oil filter. This did not make any noticeable change in the tick noise so I do not believe that this was a contributing factor.
Over the weekend I removed the valve cover and checked the timing chain tension. It was taught as it should be. I could push it down a bit between the camshafts but it would spring right back up. I also used a videoscope to look down inside the cam tunnel and found no evidence of the timing chain contacting any metal or the oil drip line for the lower timing chain sprocket. Everything appeared to be in order.
When I started the engine to confirm no leaks around the valve cover, I used a mechanic's stethoscope to check for the noise. I was unable to isolate it as the engine tick did not occur at that time. The cause of the tick noise continues to elude me, but I have ruled out the two common causes (oil filter and timing chain tension).
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Sometimes I'll walk my wife out to the garage in the morning when she is leaving for work. When she starts up her 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan FWD sto n go I hear a clicking noise for about 2 seconds. To me it sounds like the lifters prior to getting the oil delivery. I was wondering if that was going to eventually cause some engine damage and also if there is a problem with the oil pump or something like that. Is this a problem that I should check into or is this normal for this van. We hit a deer several months ago and the whole front end was wasted. I don't remember hearing this clicking sound when the van was newer.
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I have a '06 sonata 3.3 v6. Let me first describe what was happening to the car before the noise started. When I first started the car and put the ac, the first time turning the steering wheel in either direction the steering wheel would tighten up and the battery indicator light would come on and the fasten seatbelt light would flash even though I had the belt fastened. It would only happen the first time I would make a turn and after that I could turn with no problem. So in recap, it would only happen on the first turn and only when the ac was on. Now when I start the car up there is a noise coming form the pulley/belt area. I wouldn't classify it as a squeaking noise more like a grinding. I've looked at the belt and it seems to be fine. After I start to drive the car the noise goes away. If I start the car again after a drive within about 2 hours the noise doesn't happen when I start it. What this noise could be? and also could the noise and the steering wheel tightening when the ac is on be connected?
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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My 06' Camry has 141k on it and when I start it up in the morning it smokes and I have been told it is the valve stem seals, and since I'm pretty handy with a wrench. I was wondering all the tools and steps there are to replacing them and if you actually have to take the head off or not?
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I just bought 2011 Camry 23K miles, L4 engine and 6 sp auto trans. Experienced strange downshifting - when slowing down the tranny shifts down, so the RPM jumps from about 900 to 1,200 and the cycle repeats for the next gear. Feels almost like the car is getting ready for the (possible) acceleration. It mostly happens when I am coasting, not when I am breaking. I already disconnected battery for the few hours to reset transmission shifting points memory.
I have seen "transmission flare up" tread about V6 engine + 6 sp tran combination, but it is not it.
I also have 2009 Camry with 5 speed 170K miles, and it shifts so nice you could not tell what gear you are on; and have 2009 Highlander.
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My 2003 Camry loses power and starts to hesitate or miss-like under load, but when cruising along not under load it runs smooth. There is no check engine light coming on.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the tank.
I have changed the spark plugs.
I have added injector cleaner and fuel treatment to the fuel.
I have cleaned the air filter and air filter compartment.
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I have a 2006 CTS, 3.6. 128k miles. Always changed the oil myself at 3,000 miles religiously. A few months ago, the car began to "jump" or hesitate when accellerator pushed. Not right away, but after car reached about 30 mph. Again when on it reached about60 mph on highway. It cruises fine, but if you push it, it stutters a bit and the check engine light flashes, Then regains it's composure and away it goes. I noticed that when I changed the oil, the filter is filthy, filthy. Always has been. Use the right oil and all.
Now, I take it to a local national automotive chain and they tell me it is misfiring on #6 and needs plugs, coils and the works. So I had them do it. The car still jumps at same intervals. So i take it back and now it is misfiring on ALL plugs ( or so the computer says). Now the mechanic tells me that the timing chains are all buggered up and the engine needs to be replaced. So I seek another it to another garage and they say that they see the same codes, but don't think it is in need of new engine. They would like to keep it anid see if they can find the problem. A week passes and they can't diagnose the problem.
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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The car drives great on smooth roads, but as soon as I hit a bump it jerks the wheel and if turning the car it jumps sideways (overall feels like the rear is kicking out)... Not a fun feeling.
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I am yet another sufferer of the 40mph vibration syndrome I commonly read about on this site. I have had my 2006 f350 club cab sd to the dealership about 7 times for this, and now am being told it is a normal characteristic of this truck. They have replaced wheels, tires, vibration machine analyzed, put on a vibration damper, etc., but nothing fixes the problem. It has done it since the day I drove it home.
How many of you out there are upset about their super duty that jumps up and down at certain speeds? Lately, my dealership has had my truck more than me. From the amount of posts I see about this problem, I am certainly not alone. Ford is now trying to brush me under the carpet, yet I have a truck with a built in gyrator that is totally unacceptable. The truck now has about 20,000 miles of bouncy misery on it, and it isn't getting better.
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