Camry :: 2007 CE - Engine Idle Pulsation With Air Conditioner On
Apr 7, 2012
I have a 2007 Camry CE 4 Cyl automatic with 50K miles. I noticed when I have the air conditioner on and I put the car in reverse there is a pulsation feeling while I have the foot on the brake aslmost like a rough idle as I am backing up. When I turn the air conditioner off the pulsation stops. Not sure if its the brakes , air conditioner, tranny. The shift of the tranny seems smooth, upon accelaration. This also happens when I come to a complete stop waiting for light to change. Again when I turn the air conditioner off the idle seems quiet while I have foot on the brake..
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101,400 miles on car. Started noticing about 2 weeks ago, at idle, and as pickup up speed, a whining noise coming from the engine bay. It has gotten a little worse, so I started trouble shooting.
Basically, at idle, its somewhat annoying, but as you hit 20-30mph it can be more annoying if the radio is off or at low level. If Im sitting there in park, and its whining away, all it takes is me cutting the A/C knob to OFF, and then quiet as a mouse.
So, other than the compressor going bad, I can't see anything else related? I always hate when AC problems show up, they are never cheap....
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I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
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I changed the battery in my wife's 2007 Camry couple of days ago and the engine shakes at idle. It seems to be getting better so I am thinking the computer is relearning how to idol. Another problem it has now is the gas display. My wife says it does not seem to be showing the correct cruising range for the amount of gas that was pumped. Could this be from the computer having to relearn everything?
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I have a 2007 Camry LE, with about 104,000 miles on it. Lately I've noticed a noise ONLY when the car is idling, rather in park or drive. I don't hear it all when I'm driving. It's somewhat hard for me to tell if it's coming from the engine or under the car, but its definitely near the front and sounds lower in the body. My first instinct told me that it was related to the exhaust system, but it doesn't quite sound like a rattle. It sounds closer to a belt struggling to turn...it actually sounds a little bit like when my water pump and alternator went, but I had those replaced 15 months ago so I really don't think it's that at all. I also had the radiator replaced 2 months back, so I don't think it's that. I don't know drive far to work, so I haven't put a lot of miles on the car in the last year.
Otherwise the car drives normally, just hear this sound at idle. The only other thing I've noticed over time is that when the car gets to about 2500-3000 miles after an oil change, I notice the light flashes when making hard turns..but that's it, and it goes away when I get the oil changed. Obviously I know that the engine is burning oil probably faster than it should, but I'm not sure if that might somehow be related to what I'm hearing above.
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I recently purchased a used Camry XLE V6 with 90,000km on the engine. Soon after I bought it I noticed when I was stopped at a light the engine rpm's would increase for a few seconds at a time every 20 seconds or so. It was enough to make the car move forward slightly if my foot was on the brake lightly. I spent some time trying to re-create it at home, and it seems to do it consistently when the A/C is on, although some times it is more noticeable than others. It will do it when in park, or in drive with the brake on. The low (base) rpm is around 650 and it will increase to 950. It does this over and over as long as the AC is on. The rpm's will also increase if I turn the steering wheel when I am at a stop, but it only does it when I turn the wheel, it doesn't keep cycling. There are no check engine lights showing either.
I changed the air filter and cleaned the throttle body butterfly valve flap (not the entire throttle body) but it did not fix it. I also brought it to a Toyota dealer and they took it for a drive, but of course it did not show the systems as clearly that day. I didn't book an actual appointment with the mechanic though, since the car is running great otherwise and this problem is not bad enough to start throwing money at it doing problem solving. I also asked the guy I bought it from and he said it always did this from day one. If it were me I would have been making my dealer resolve it because it is not normal.
If I could fix this one very annoying issue the car would be perfect. I'm not sure if I need to do a full throttle body cleaning including the idle air control valve, or if this is more about the load on the engine and the way the computer/engine is responding to it.
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Im a newbie to the Camry's. Picked up from a relative a 07 Camry for $5k. It has 103K on it.
It has an issue to where it has some codes and the check engine light on with P0018, P0019, P0300, P0302, P0306 codes. They just all cam eup al lof a sudden while driving. Slight miss at idle which is the misfire codes but I can't pinpoint the issue for the P0018 and P0019 codes.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My car is a 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L. I've been having a brake pulsation problem with my car for few months. I feel the vibration on the pedal and also on the steering wheel when I brake at high speeds. And also I feel like the pedal goes too low and not responsive enough.
So I took the car to a local shop 3 days ago and they told me that the front rotors are bad and have to be replaced. They installed new Wagner front brake rotors and pads. But still I get the same problems described above. Today I drove on the highway and got the same vibration both on pedal and steering when I apply brakes.
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I am in need of the diagnosis of an air conditioner & radiator fan problem on a 2002 Cavalier LS Sport.
The air conditioner blows cold air while the car is moving most of the time. At idle, the air conditioner will suddenly blow warm or even hot air.
At idle with the air conditioner off, the car idles fine. When you turn the a/c on, it runs a bit sluggish. Also, ever 5 seconds you hear what I assume to be the compressor cycle on/off.
After a little research I discovered that this problem could be a faulty radiator fan motor.
Tonight, I pulled the electrical plug to the fan and found that I had voltage to the plug when the engine was running with the air on or off. I then ran wires direct from the battery to the fan and could not get the fan to spin. This obviously tells me that the fan motor must be bad.
My real question is.....should I really have voltage to the fan when the a/c is off and the car is just started? I thought the fan should only turn on when the engine got warm with the a/c off. I started the car and pulled it in to the garage and then shut it off before I did my testing so I don't think that would classify as getting the engine warm.
I am now wondering if the voltage was always present even with the AC button off because I may have had the fan in the recirculate mode. The AC light is lit in this mode even when the AC button is off.
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I've had my 2010 Accent for about 9 months. It's got about 63K miles on it. Serviced regularly, no issues there. Yesterday while coming home from a road trip....6 hours there, heavy driving while in town, 6 hours back 2 days later, the check engine light came on the dash. I then noticed that the car was idling very rough. When I put it in gear after starting, I can visibly see the car the shake. Having major problems accelerating, I have to mash the gas to the floor to make it go. Shutting off the air conditioner seems to work a bit, but not totally.
I should note that I live in the South East US, it was over 95 degrees when we left town and the destination was over 100 the entire time we were there. I was told this could be vapor lock, but am not sure about what to do to clear that when the temps won't drop around here for some time. I took it to AutoZone this morning to have them read the codes on the check engine light and was told that their code reader was incompatible with my car.
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Air Conditioner Blower Motor on any speed, lets say high. Running fine while driving. Come to a stop at idle or shift to N or P. A few seconds later the blower begins to vary its speed in pulsating rhythm in what would seem to be in cadence with what would be a rough or varying idle. Where to start? Is it the relay?
2002 BMW 330ci Convertible
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. My air conditioner keeps turning on by itself. I press it to turn off, but keeps turning on. I do this several times before it stays off. Then after 10 - 15 minutes, it turns back on. Is this a relay problem or a button problem?
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2005 Camry a/c will not stay charged. Charge it up works about a week then loses Freon. A/C machine finds no problem when pulling vacuum or charging. Is there one place where most 2005's leak their Freon? Can't find any threads listing a major problem other than the blinking A/C light, which mine is fine.
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I'm having a very strange problem with my air conditioning unit that the dealer has never seen before. Each time I start up the car, the air conditioner initially fails to turn on. It seems to try to start up for about a minute. The green A/C light comes on, but no air blows out. Then, after about a minute, a message shows up on the nav screen saying "Air Conditioner off". The green light also turns off.
If I then press the A/C button again, the green light comes on, and after about 15 seconds, the air starts to blow and the unit appears to be fine.
This process happens consistently, each and every time I start up the car. The only time it may not go through this cycle is if I just turned the car off within the last few minutes and then start it up again, in which case the air conditioning seems to work fine.
I suspect when I went to the dealer, they did not pay much attention to what was happening the first time they started the car, and then on each successive restart, the symptom failed to reappear because the A/C unit seems to start fine if it was just running within the last few minutes.
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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I made a post earlier about rough vibrations at idle on my 07 camry le not too long ago. I cleaned my throttle body and it worked, but now they are back and worse then ever. Now the vibrations go in and out, like it vibrates for a second the stops for a second then starts vibrating again until I move and stop at the next light and then the in and out vibrations are back. Also sometimes I hear metal hitting sounds.
Just had an oil change and oil changes are always on time so I doubt it's the engine knocking. Also when the AC is on the vibrations just become very unbearable. Finally sometimes when I turn the steering wheel while barely moving or not moving at all the vibrations get as bad as when the AC is on and very noisy. Also I noticed turning the steering wheel raises the rpms but then drop back. I tried to record the sounds, but as usual video of sounds are useless.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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What is the problem and fix when you have a check air conditioner msg scroll across the GPS screen?
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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