Camry :: 2007 V6 Running Hot - Radiator Or Water Pump?
May 8, 2016
I have a 2007 Camry with V6, automatic. My wife drives it daily and she said that a light came on saying water temp and it started to run hot. When I looked at it I could not see fluid anywhere and the reservoir along with the radiator was very low, almost a gallon of fluid to fill it up. I took the shroud from over the top of the radiator and along the top of the radiator and where it meets the fins the pink dried fluid was along it. I could also see where it looks like it's getting onto the electric fan. At first I thought the water pump was going (147K) but now I think it might be the radiator is bad....
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My Town & County started running hot.. sometimes... I first replace the thermostat, but still ran hot. But I never saw any indication in the engine compartment of overheating or bubbly fluid or such, so I took it to the dealer, where at first it ran fine. Then started running hot, they were confused because the lower hose was a lower Temp then the upper hose so they wanted to take the water pump off and look at it. I asked if they verified that the engine was actually running hot, I also questioned them about the lower hose temp, because I think if its working right it should be a lower temp. They said would check both items.
Then they called back and said they thought I had a blocked radiator (no mention of the water pump) and wanted $900 to put a new one in. Got van back, drove it home and check the radiator and there were some cold spots and hot spots in the radiator. Called local radiator place and they suggested I flush it. I did, it ran perfect for 1.5 days and now overheats again. Now most of the Radiator is cold to the touch just around the edges is hot. the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose and is hot all the way to the radiator (maybe not as hot at the radiator as by the thermostat.Question: Bad Radiator or Bad Water Pump?
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my 2007 Camry LE I4 and I got an oil change at the dealer today. He tried to tell me my water pump was leaking and needed replacement.
Offered me a deal of "%50 off the price for $500" which I think is ridiculous. Took it to a family friend that is a mechanic and he said $266 to replace the whole thing.
Dealer said they would do a price match but I'm not sure what to do.
They said it would make it to Tennessee and back because it's in its infant stage.
My question is, when I refilled my low antifreeze, I accidentally overfilled a lot past the line. Would this have anything to do with this issue?
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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I have a new thermostat and a new water pump. Why is my car still running hot?
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Toyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
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We have a 2007 Mazda5 we recently purchased used from a Mazda dealer. We learned later that the car has had numerous repairs the dealer didn't disclose, including a radiator fan replacement and possible new radiator. We noticed that the radiator fan was constantly running, even if the engine wasn't but the key was in the "on" position. The fan shut off when the AC was turned on. We took it to our local dealer for diagnostics who said that wires had been crossed in the original repair, that they connected the wires so that the fan would always run and that we needed a new fan control module.
We tried out a new module but it didn't fix the problem, fan still runs all the time and is very loud. Husband thinks the fan might be blowing in the wrong direction: currently towards the radiator. Another problem, which may or may not be related, is that the AC only works well at high vehicle speeds. When traveling in town, the AC blows very mediocre cool and moist air. According to the original owner, they put in a new AC compressor and a new pressure switch and the AC apparently worked well.
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I have a 08 camry 4 cyl LE (51,000 Miles). I went to oil change last week but dealer told me that water pump is seeping and recommend to replace.
I talked to local mechanic about this, he told me that 08 camry comes with bad water pump parts. My sister drive 08 tc her water pump was also leak, she replaced under powertrain warranty last year. But my warranty was over last year by age.
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Car has less than 28k on it but the pump took a dump,luckily I noticed the coolant leak after my wife drove it and we caught it in time before it got hot.
She never looks at her gauges (except the fuel) and since I know there's no low coolant warning light in these cars,I'm on it like a hawk.
Couldn't find the proper Toyota coolant so I topped off with distilled water and what fluid I was able to recapture from the drip pan.
Had it towed to my mechanic,he diagnosed the problem and $600 later,he'll button her all up and we should be back in the drivers seat tonight.
Counting my lucky stars...could have been much worse.
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I was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
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I am bringing in my V6 2005 Camry XLE in for a pulley recall and have reached 90,000 miles. The dealer told me I should also have the timing belt, water pump and engine seals replaced since they are all under the same engine side cover. I am considering the timing belt, but do I need to replace the oil seals and water pump?
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I had the timing belt and water pump replaced on my wife's 2001 Toyota Solara about 2.5 years/30,000 miles ago.
Recently I have been told by a different mechanic, other than the one who performed the original timing belt/water pump service. That water pump looked as if it had been "taken apart and glued back together". Also the same mechanic told me that the reason for my continuing oil leak from the valve cover was that it was incorrectly changed and the wrong "putty" was used when the valve cover gasket was changed. This was the third time V.C. began leaking since it was changed a year ago at said timing belt mechanic and reason for the visit to a new mechanic. So my problem is who or what to believe. I have a 30,000 mile old water pump making lots of noise and leaking a good amount of coolant. I tried to contact the owner of the original service shop but not yet spoken to him directly about my problem. Prior to this I had nothing but good experiences with this shop in regards to my 91 Nissan pickup truck. But as soon as I take my wife's car in I have had nothing but problems.
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Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
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1) It's a very slow leak.
2) I am under Power Train Warranty for another year (Certified Pre-Owned).
3) My friend is a mechanic who will fix it for free as long as I buy the Water Pump.
But I worry Toyota is going to give me a hard time and say it's something else not covered by warranty or say it's not you water pump but the radiator, which shows no sign of leakage and is not covered by warranty.
My friend showed me the bolts that were corroded white on the pump with a mirror and flash light. I buy the water pump and he installs it for free or go to a Toyo dealer where you don't know what to expect?
2006 Camry LE 4 Cylinder, 48,000 miles---I know Toyota makes junk Water Pumps.
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Car: 2007 Honda Accord LX 2.4 liter
Recently my car has been making a little too much noise from the water pump. It doesn't happen immediately, it happens after the car has driven for a while. for example, I have an hour commute to work and today the sound was noticeable during the last 5-10 min when I turned the radio down to check. This is similar to other instances in the past week or so. I opened the hood and saw the point that had the sound, checked online and found it was the water pump. Also when I looked under the hood today I noticed my power steering fluid was right at the min level, I will be refilling that of course. What should I do to diagnose this issue?
Additional note: I was told there was some water dripping from my car, but thought little of it since I had been using the A/C that day and the humidity was a bit high.
My current plan of action is to refill the power steering fluid, see if that removes the noise. I will also put a cardboard under the car engine to see if it catches any fluids shortly after I park. Just in case there is a leak somewhere in the system.
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I have a 2008 sante fe 3.3 the water pump is leaking. I have the replacement pump, however I'm not sure how it is designed to come out due to clearance issues. It's easy enough to unbolt a pull loose, however clearance between the car frame and pulley is 1/4 inch. How does it come out of the compartment?
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I'm driving a 2007 Prius [Gen II?] with 92k miles on her. I was told my belt has cracks and I should change it, and I've read about converting it to an electric pump. I've read the Prius C uses the same engine, and it has an electric pump. I THOUGHT I read about people putting them in the older models...
What do I need to know? Is there a controller board I need? How does it work? [Life compared to the belt driven model]Side effects? [Accel? Fuel economy? Anything else?]
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I just bought 2009 ES350 with 125K on it. Since I bought it from a Lexus dealer, they were able to pull all maintenance records for it. It does not look like that the previous owner has replaced the pump so I am thinking of doing it myself. Other parts that should be replaced while i am in there, so I can order them at once?
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2005 Camry XLE with 4 cylinder. Is it a good idea to change engine oil after replacing the water pump? Another words, is there a chance of getting antifreeze or debris in the engine oil when changing the pump or are the 2 separate in the 4 cyl. engine?
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