Now that summer is here the AC is in use. So the procedure is turn on engine let it run for one minute or a few minutes then turn on the AC. When I turn on the AC almost all the time the engine stall. It does not die but it stall really bad. Is fine after that at stop light and in traffic. Not sure what to make of it.
Camry 2008 4 cyl auto.
So i cave a Clunking noise and feeling coming from the steering column every time i make a slow turn or when i am driving trow ruff roads. I can feel it through the steering wheel.
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission. When I come to a hard stop, or make a hard turn, the engine either stalls or almost stalls. I've had it serviced lately with new plugs and wires, oil change and fuel system cleaning. The engine idles fine when you start it and are just sitting there. The problem seems to come with stopping hard or turning while quickly slowing, when the clutch is engaged. If I am able to hit the gas I can keep it running and then it runs fine.
View 2 RepliesMy golf, made in 2008 (1.6 FSI, petrol), has a tricky problem now. When I turn on its engine for the first time in the morning, its RPM goes over 10 (12~13) with louder sound than normal. So I turn it off and on again, and then everything becomes immediately fine: RPM is below 10 and the sound is just fine. After that, the problem does not happen again all day. But it happens in the next morning when I turn on the engine for the first time in the day!!
View 2 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
I have the error code P0340 and have changed both camshaft positioner sensors, cleaned the air sensor and throttle body and still the engine stalls. I can accelerate at 40, 50, 60mph and it jerks violently. I tried the "locking it in third" trick but it still jerks. Today I unplugged the left cam sensor and the truck idles @ 400rpms, does not stall, and pretty much drives great! Hook it back up and crank it, within 10-15 seconds it stalls. I plan to check the wiring....
View 14 RepliesI have a problem. My 2007 ford f150 4x4 5.4 triton engine starts to flutter and stalls when its in reverse, engine is warm, and I am backing up a trailer with about 5,000 lbs on it. It drives fine with or without towing. I did notice it does it with nothing behind it on occasion. Whats causing this?
View 2 RepliesI have a cold start problem with my camry. The engine has clocked 100k now. When ever i start the car in cold weather; it never starts for the first time. The second time when i start it, the engine stalls a bit and then the rpm raises upto 2. Also the rpm when the engine is cold remains less then 1.5.
View 11 RepliesI have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
View 2 Replies1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
Every time we make a sharp right or left turn the engine on my van stalls. It has to be completely restarted. In the last year we replaced the trans and steering column and had a major tune-up. So far, no one has been able to diagnose the problem.
View 5 RepliesOver the past year we have been noticing that the HVAC blower doesn't turn on from time to time. All settings in the control panel seem normal and the fan speed is turned on. Most of the time everything is working normally, sometimes when the car starts the blower isn't working and then starts after a minute of driving. Sometimes I notice the blower isn't working and I turn up the fan speed and after a few clicks it starts working normally for the remainder of the drive. And then sometimes the blower doesn't ever start and I need to turn off and restart the car a few times. When the blower hasn't been working the a/c compressor has been turning on, something in the blower circuit is failing.
There are five possibilities:
The HVAC controller isn't telling the blower to turn on
The power relay isn't always working
There is a wiring or connection problem
The blower motor itself isn't working
The power mosfet is failing.
What needed to be replaced?
Car clicks when I turn the key , all lights and electrical come on but the engine will not turn over....
View 2 RepliesI have a Toyota camry 2004. My engine check lights goes on and automatically turns off after some time. There is no specific pattern on when it goes on or off. I got it checked for the OBD codes and both the times the mechanic said the codes read a bad O2 sensor on Bank 1.
If the O2 sensor is really bad isn't the light supposed to be on all the time. I wonder it might be something else that is turning my engine lights on.
My prius 2008 94k miles makes this strange noise from time to time, randomly. What it might be?
View 11 Replies[URL] .... My engine has been making this sound for a while now I am at 125000 miles, what it could be and if i need to be worried about it? also, possibly unrelated, it has a SUPER hard time shifting into reverse, it gets stuck and it feels just super sticky shifting in and out of reverse. Sometimes I can't even get it to go into reverse without letting the car roll a bit. Also, at around 3k rpm the engine sounds a little grinder in any gear. 2008 Honda Fit Sport ...
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry V6. Last weekend, I changed all the spark plugs and five ignition coils. (117,000 miles on car). In January, I replaced the #6 ignition coil. Last week i threw a code for the #2 coil. Fearing the domino affect, I replaced all five remaining coils and changed all 6 spark plugs while i was in there.
Now I am throwing code P0368. This happened immediately after i changed the coils and plugs. What is this about!?!?!? Ive driven it maybe 40 miles since the plug/coil change...engine light is on the whole time. Is this sensor bad or does my car need time to "rethink" with all these new parts ...
I have a 98 camry 4 cylinder and only on cold mornings after engine starts, right then I hear a one time hump or a poot like noise near the belt area /passenger side. I've changed out the powe rsteering fluid but still does it.. never does it when warm or again after driving, only on cold mornings.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE, but I'd imagine this issue could exist w/ any trim. Hear a slight crinkle/rattle from time to time coming from your headliner area? At times it almost sounds like someone padded your headliner with a plastic grocery bag.
I usually heard it on bumpy roads. I went through a nightmare with my dealer where they had my car for about 40 days trying to figure out the cause. They even replaced the headliner! (they did a lousy job too, w/ lots of oil smudges and scratches on my plastics)
Discovered the real cause of rattle. The sound actually comes from where the sun visor meets the headliner. The white plastic socket (pictured) where the sun visor plugs in has some wiggle room. When the car vibrates (be it from a bumpy road or what have you) it can slide against the interior cut out of the headliner. This makes an obnoxious crinkling sound.
At the moment I'm driving around with no sun visor on the passenger side-- and I also have no rattle (occasionally I might hear it from the driver side sun visor, but it's minor). I'll probably add some foam up there to add some more tension to alleviate the issue completely. Even just re-seating the sun visor and ensuring the screws are tight would probably have significant impact...