Camry :: 2009 Hard Time Starting And Running Rough
Jun 5, 2015
My moms 09 camry has a hard time starting and runs rough. I found out that when my father went to get an oil change, they put in 5W-30. The engine cap on the engine says 0W-20 or 5W-20. The car is at 70K and it has never had any issues, always ran smoothly, always started... until the last oil change. I have looked through the all the service logs and it seems that the last 3 services, they also used 5W-30 oil in the car.
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I have a 1999 F250 Ford with a V-10 gas engine. It has 65000 mi. Mostly, it starts and runs great. However, when its 10-15 degrees F, it has a hard time starting. It may start and run very rough - then smooth out. Or it may not start- I come back in 2-3 min and it will start. Once it starts and gets past the rough/missing stage, its fine. If the temp hits 25 degrees F, it usually starts just fine.
There are no warning lights and I've taken it to 2 different car parts place and plugged in a computer- but it shows no alarm code. I've taken it to 2 mechanics and told them they had to work on it first thing - when its 10 degrees.
Once the temp reaches 25, it'll start every time. Both mechanics found no problem starting - I'm sure they didn't get to the truck until it warmed up. Its hard to fix something that works fine. I don't know where to look, but I don't want a truck I cannot trust to start. I've changed air, fuel filter and spark plugs.
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I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
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So I have an 03' Camry le 4 cyl. And it has been having a hard time starting for a while. Finally it completely died. I tried to jump it but accidentally hooked up the jumper cable on the other car backwards. The car then wouldn't even try to start, found and replaced the alt fuse in the engine compartment (what a pita), so I jumped it correctly and it started, but would not move when shifted Into drive or reverse. When in gear pushing the gas pedal does nothing, no rpms at all.
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Check engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.
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Why 2009 Camry 4 cyl runs rough when ac is turned on? Car has 42k and started during last 6k. Dealer says car is normal but it didn't do this until recently.
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I need to put a starter in my v6. Is it fairly simple or will i have to jack up the motor the problem is it starts fine when cold but after you drive it for a short distance and shut it off it has a hard time starting.
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I'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
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In the morning, my Treg won't start on the first attempt. If I just click the key to the right (to start the automatic ignition process) it just grinds and grinds then dies. The second time it will start. This has only happened the last couple of days. Also I should mention that it has gotten quite cold around here. Although the car is in a garage and my wife's Jetta fires right up.
I've also been having Insufficient Coolant problems. After one week of owning it I took it to the dealer and they topped off the coolant. A week later the Insufficient Coolant message came on again and I topped it off with about 1 quart (litre) of distilled water. It's been ok for the last day or so. I haven't seen any external leaks. I love my Touareg, but I really hope this isn't the beginning of a bunch of problems.
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Vehicle- 98 honda crv lx problem- it always starts when its cold (hasn't run for several hrs). Once its been running for a short while and is shut off, it either has a very hard time starting again or just won't start.
specifics- always starts the first time once engine is warm the problem starts engine turns but doesn't fire. Wears downs the battery. When I get it jumped the car will start sometimes the car will act sluggish during a left turn or from a dead stop when trying to accelerate quickly.
question- does this sound fuel pump related or battery related or both?
statement- car problems blow!
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Our 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
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My 2005 Santa Fe needs a purge valve.
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Last summer and this summer I have had a hard time starting my car when it is hot and humid out. In the winter or on cooler days it starts right up, but on hot and humid days I have to crank on it for a while before it will fire up. Sometimes it will start up right away on these days but die immediately, then I am stuck sweating my butt off in a hot car while I crank on it to start.
What this might be? The Honda dealer was of no support, they tried to sell me a new starter and battery (it is turning so I know they are not the culprits.) When I finally got someone at the dealer to listen to me, he suggested a fuel relay, a sensor,r something else I can't recall. But in the end he said they would just be changing out all of these until one works, at my expense.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Previa that is having a hard time starting up consistently. Most of the time it starts like a charm, but about 15% of the time the vehicle won't start. It will crank away, sounding like it's out of gas, but just won't start up. BUT if I wait a couple hours and try again it will start up on the first time.
Mechanics have looked at it twice now and are stumped- and of course it starts up fine when it's at the shop. A new battery and a new relay device haven't worked.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima that has a hard time starting but runs fine once started. It is very difficult in the winter when the temp is below 25 degrees. Sometimes it take me 5 to 6 tries to get it started. I have had the vehicle checked by two mechanics and recently had the battery replaced. The mechanics said the car looks fine. Could this be a fuel injector problem or moisture in the fuel system?
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So I've had my car for 3 years now. I've done an emissions delete, replaced maf, diverter valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt kit, fuel filter, air filter, starter and battery (for another issue) have a 3" DP and replaced the O2 when I did that, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tested another n75 in my car.
The problem: the car sometimes has a really hard time starting when it it way below freezing. When it's around cold, at freezing or under the car will start fine. But the problem starts after I back out of my driveway and take the clutch out and put on the gas. When I try to accelerate the car will not accelerate. You can have your foot pressed to the floor and the car will act as it's stalling out and sputter but it actually won't stall because the call will keep driving and then all of a sudden power will come back and it will take off. The situation can be remedied by either pushing the clutch in. The car will idle no mall or if when the car is sputtering I can tap the gas quickly an it will build up speed and the problem will go away.
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I own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
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I have a dodge neon that has a hard time starting. if i turn the key about 6-8 times i hear a noise like a pump ( i am guessing) and then it starts. if i do not turn the key on and off it will not start.
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Code P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
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