Camry 2012+ :: Lack Of Braking Power
Dec 7, 2015
Coming from my truck, the V6 Camry is just as quick. What I have immediately noticed is the lack of braking power from my Camry. My basis of comparison is my truck with had quad opposing piston front calipers which will be higher performing than the floating type we have. If it weren't a lease, I'd do the highlander brake conversion on it.
For rotors: I looked up part numbers from a 2013 SE V6 and found them to be the same as a 2015 XSE V6. (TireRack doesn't have the 2015-16 brake options yet). Since they look to be the same OEM part numbers, that should mean the StopTechs for the 2013 should fit my 2016.
As for pads, it looks like TireRack had Hawk HPS and Hawk HPS 5.0.
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I have a 2003 MCV36R Camry SPortivo, Australian spec. Have owned it for 12 months. Have had power issues.
Replaced:
plugs
fuel filter
O2 sensors (engine)
MAF sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Have checker EGR valve - all looks good
Have coded OBD II, no codes coming up
Current issues are:
Flat spots from 1000rpm to approx 3000 rpm (esp on gear change from 1st to second)
Once flat spot stop, it powers up enough to throw you back in your seat.
Also, rough running when sitting on constant speed, esp bad between 65-85 Km/h.
Have recently done a 800km trip. half way through, isolated the EGR valve. Running probs have improved greatly, but still lacks power.
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Last weekend I got the first brake job done on my mom's 2012 Camry SE which has a bit over 43K. The car was shaking upon braking at 60+ mph.
To keep it short, the pads on the vehicle were not even half way used. I wanted to re-use the pads, but I had already purchased another set (ceramic). So got those installed and re-surfaced the rotor.
My question is, can I use the original pads when I get new rotors on the next brake job?
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My Bluetooth was causing crackling and dropping of audio. I couldn't figure out what was causing it. Eventually I made the connection: the brakes. Every time I braked, the Bluetooth would crackle and drop (but not disconnect).
I purchase car a month ago certified from a Toyota dealer.
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It all started around 18,000 miles when I noticed a vibration under highway braking. I convinced myself that everything was fine for the time being and I would have the dealer inspect the brakes at my 20,000 service. Fast forward to the service and all four of my rotors were warped. The dealer turned them all and said I wouldn't have any more problems. The car sits at 28,500 miles now and I'm starting to get the same vibration sensation as I had at 18,000 miles. I'm definitely going to be bringing the car in for it's 30,000 mile service and I will bring up the issue again. What type of warranty is on the brakes as I hope they will replace the rotors this time.
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I have a 2012 Camry LE. When I let off the gas between 25 & 40 mph, the transmission aggressively brakes. Occasional acceleration surges when braking. And when I need to go, it sometimes does not want to go until I punch it. All problems are sporadic.
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The other day I reversed into a parking spot, and noticed as I was braking and reversing a loud clicking sound is coming from what seems the front driver side engine area. Every time I would brake it would click. I read of this problem on the Gen 6 and apparently there is a TSB for the front Rotors needing to me re-machined? The funny thing is this only happens when I reverse and brake, but it only happens randomly.
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I noticed recently that my car started this popping noise when braking in reverse gear. I never ran over anything and babied it for all the 6000 miles it has on the ODO. 2015 Camry
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Heard an noise coming from the front of the car when in reverse turning wheel and braking only happens when im braking and make some turns not all turns.
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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Picked up a second 7.3, just finished installing the new transmission last night, took it on a drive last night, everything was fine.
Went to bring it home last night- and found myself unable to maintain 50-55mph on back roads at 3500 rpm.
At first it almost seemed like I wasn't getting 3rd/4th gear, but upon taking it for a spin with torque pro, I am getting all gears, overdrive works, TC locks- all appears good there. Trans is getting really hot- but I believe I messed up the bypass lines or the bypass valve is not opening correctly- not the biggest concern.
I let the truck cool to more normal operating temps, took it for a spin, same story. I top out flooring it at about 55mph. No fault codes other than my faulty glow plug module. Everything I'm monitoring on torquepro looks fine with the exception of boost. When I floor my other 7.3, I get 15-20 psi, this, I get like.. 4. Unplugged MAP, nothing changed.
Turbo shot? Glogged pipes? These are my first initial thoughts. Let me know if I'm going in the right direction here, I can rebuild a gas motor in my sleep, but diesels are a newer animal to me, I've only had them about 2 months.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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This is a van (2000)used to transport people for leisure. It has 270k. When she is warmed up and rolling the power output is impressive for the vehicle size and weight. A half punch on the gas will push your shoulder blades into your seat.(I've never floored it)
It has a fairly consistent "lack of power issue". When she is just starting out for the first run. And about 3/4s of the time after she has been sitting at idle for an extended period(already warm). The lack of power is severe. If a hill of note is involved I have to turn around and go the other way. The lack of power normally is dealt with by pulling over and shutting the motor down. Usually, 2 mins or longer is the best. If I am in a hurry and don't go full 2 mins I get improved power but not really full. She will clear herself up then as we go."Refinding" her power always comes with a BIG load of smoke output. She does smoke pretty good when cold, of course. But normal driving not very bad. Smoke is of the whitish to light gray in color.
This has been a problem for the 3 years I have owned the car. She is cold blooded. When I plan to drive the car I plug in the block heater otherwise, I think I am using 2 gallons just to get her warmed up to idle. I just started using the diesel Kleen fuel additive. Got it at Napa. Haven't seen much improvement or change of note at this point.
Other than this problem and the wheel almost falling off once...it's been a perfect rig.The mechanic has not been able to come up with much. Although at the last oil change the computer code mentioned something about a temperature sensor? I have not yet followed up with him about that.
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