My car is fairly new with 21700 miles approximately. It started to give me a little shake at the brake pedal. I drove to Victorville,CA last night and the shake was strong enough for my passenger to feel! Toyota said its a bad rotor and I have to take care of that because warranty will NOT cover that!
View 5 RepliesI own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
View 6 RepliesI have 2012 sonata and she has about 43000 miles. I replaced 4 tires at 40000 miles. Soon after, steering wheel used to shake when I apply brake. So, I got front rotors resurfaced and got new front brake pads which solved the problem of steering wheel shaking. I also got alignment right after installing brake pad.
Since last week, I realized there is a vibration coming from front of my car when driving over 30 mph to about 70 mph.The vibration is present randomly and weird thing is that the vibration stops immediately when I apply brake. What may cause this problem?
I have a 2012 Camry SE and my front passenger seat seems to shake/shudder alot. It constantly shudders and makes so much noise when no one is sitting in it, that it's driving me crazy! I can't tolerate the noise of it. If I go over a bump it shudders, if i'm driving on a rough highway, it shudders and shakes so badly that I have to put my hand on it to make it stop. It makes squeaky noises as well. It doesn't happen when driving on smooth surface.
Secondly, the center dash is very squeaky, and made out of hard plastic. I feel there is no insulation behind, and thus it squeaks whenever I go over a bump. What steps did you take to resolve it?
I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
View 4 RepliesBrake pedal being very sensitive at low speeds (neighborhood speeds about 25 mph or lower). At higher speeds its not as sensitive but IMHO it is quite a bit touchy. So this issue started a few months ago, after the crankshaft key fell out and the timing belt/chain slipped. The engine needed to be torn apart to replace a few items internally.
After that I was visiting my parents, and I wanted to give the car a test drive to make sure that all seemed to be ok. I was pulling out of the driveway and I went to stop so that I could put the car into "D", I barely pushed down on the pedal and it went down pretty fast and the car stop suddenly, I thought it was a fluke. This took place a few months ago after they freshly gotten the vehicle back.
Fast forward to last night, my parents were up visiting and I went and took their Passat to the gas station to fill it up for them. And the pedal was still pretty darn sensitive. I'm not too savvy with this kind of trouble shooting.
Purchased new 2012 Ford F350 to haul slide in camper. When I step on the brakes they go 3/4 of the way down. If I pump again, they go 1/4 of the way down (normal). Brought this to Ford dealer, they test drove the vehicle and admitted I had a problem with the brakes. They told Ford and Ford faxed a letter stating they are aware of this issue and there is nothing they can do about it. Stated this is a "soft braking pedal problem" with some of the 2011 and 2012 Ford trucks.
View 5 RepliesBrand new 2012 jetta TDI (less than 1,000 miles). Standard, 6 speed. A few weeks ago, I went to brake, and my pedal went all the way to the floor (no resistance) w/o slowing me down. I let the pedal out (after freaking out a little), and when i went to try again, the brakes kicked in. I was a block from home, so I continued to drive, pulled in to park, and it happened again. Left foot on the clutch, right foot went to brake and went all the way to the floor. Took it straight to the dealer. They checked it, drove it, checked it again. Couldn't find anything.
I've driven about 500 miles since, with no incident. Then, it happened again. My brake pedal literally touched the floor, and didn't even slow me down. I tried pumping. Nothing. Took the pedal all the way out, and then recompressed- worked fine. Drove it to the dealer, happened one more time on the way (had to pull the ebrake to stop).
They have had it 2 days and still can't find anything wrong. I've been driving VWs since I got my license. I've never even owned an automatic, so the whole "maybe you were pressing the clutch instead of the brake" comment is out of the question. What is going on?!
The brake pedal is a little too high for my tastes, and I'd like to lower it a good inch. How I can do this.
I'm not sure if any Camrys come with adjustable brake pedals, but mine appears to not, and it's an XLE, which leads me to think they don't.
My 04 Camry is having brake issues. It has 205k miles. The front pads are great and the back shoes are great. (Drums in back) I've had them adjusted multiple times but my pedal still goes almost to the floor. It's not the master cylinder cause I've already replaced that. The pedal doesn't bleed off either. But I have bled the brake lines and there is no air left in the lines.
View 14 RepliesMy Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
My car is a 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L. I've been having a brake pulsation problem with my car for few months. I feel the vibration on the pedal and also on the steering wheel when I brake at high speeds. And also I feel like the pedal goes too low and not responsive enough.
So I took the car to a local shop 3 days ago and they told me that the front rotors are bad and have to be replaced. They installed new Wagner front brake rotors and pads. But still I get the same problems described above. Today I drove on the highway and got the same vibration both on pedal and steering when I apply brakes.
My mother went out 2 days ago to go run errands, she stepped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor (car still in garage and in park, low mileage car 81,xxx garage kept). I have not been able to duplicate the issue. The fluid has been changed twice since new, no signs of fluid loss, undercarriage inspection revealed nothing. I am thinking maybe a vacuum hose issue.
View 2 RepliesI recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
A friend brought me a car with the issue that the brake pedal sinks to the floor when braking. She said it was never low on fluid so I replaced the master cylinder and bled all of the lines with a friend pumping the pedal. The pedal would still sink to the floor. I tried vacuum bleeding the brakes and found that the front left consistently had large bubbles.
I Teflon taped the fitting on the calliper and the bleed screw which improved the problem but didn't fix it. I then replaced the calliper. The front left calliper still won't bleed and the brake pedal still goes to the floor. When I bleed it the regular way, the fluid comes out of the bleeder like it bled nicely. Neither of the rubber hoses that connect to the calliper have any visible damage. I had a friend pump the brakes while looking at the hoses and their is no bulge or swelling in them. Could the ABS need to be bled?
I have an 07 v6 SE with 220k on the clock. Recently switched out my rear pads with no problem, but still had a small shake under braking - so tonight we pulled the front wheels off and switched the front pads and rotors out - did an oil change while it was there.
On it's first test drive - there's something wrong. The brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and is SUPER soft. It still stops. If I mash the pedal, the car will come to a sharp stop - testing on some sandy roads, the front brakes are definitely working - but the front pedal travel is WAY more than it was prior to the pad/rotor maintenance.
We ran out of light, so tomorrow we're going to get some new fluids and flush the system in case we got air in it.
My car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
View 9 RepliesI bought a new toyota camry L# 2013 a month ago. The gas pedal seems very firm and need to really press hard to accelerate. My initial thought was that it being a new one it might be firm and would loosen up gradually. Its been a month and more than 1000+ miles, but the pedal is still very rigid and I am feeling leg pain because of it (I am driving 52 miles to and from work). Not sure if it is common feature or mine is behaving that way.
BTW - I also own 1999 camry and the gas pedal is very smooth and responsive.
2006 Camry LE 4cyl ABS no stability control, rear drum brakes. The brakes stop the car, but the pedal does go to the floor and it doesn't brake with confidence.
Prior to the repairs everything looked normal (aside from one wheel cylinder, see pic) and there was no leakage. The fluid was at the proper level though dirty.
I replaced the master cylinder and did a complete fluid flush and bleed. I also changed the front pads (it was time anyway) and the passenger side brake hose. I was going to to both hoses, but I wound up snapping the steel line on the PS and spent most of the day dealing with that. I decided not to press my luck with the DS.
I might change the DS hose, since I already bought it. At this point the only thing left is a weak caliper or wheel cylinder seal, or a bad hose (though I don't see any visible bulging when brakes are applied).
My wife was driving on the freeway last week and she applied brakes but they barely stopped the car and the brake light came on. She was able to limp it home without incident but the brake light stayed on and the car was braking poorly. The next day I inspected everything and found no leaks, and the fluid was not low but it was dirty. I drove the car and noticed braking performance was lacking (though it was never great to begin with) but I never saw a brake light. The brake light isn't on at this point.