Camry 2012+ :: XV50 SE 7th Gen Weak HID Output?
Jun 11, 2014
Recently installed 35w Canbus Slim Ballast 6000k HIDs into my 2014.5 Camry SE projector headlights (black bezel). For some reason it seems like the Halogens lit up better. I get very poor lighting, and when I drive on the highway at night it barely lights up the signs. I don't know if I need to adjust the angle of the projector because the beams seem kind of low or if I need to upgrade the ballast to a 55w. Also not sure if the housing or the stock wiring can handle the 55w without causing damage.
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my low beam is to weak with original lights,led kit for beam projector is good?
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This my first toyota camry and noticed rear window defroster to take a long time to defrost morning mist from rear window. At 5 mins idle i start to see the defrost lines is this normal?? In my 14 accord rear window would be completely defrosted in 5 mins.
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My a/c is weak and the compressor clutch is on all the time. What causes that?
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Few weeks ago, I got the Tein spring installed on my camry. Drop 1.5/1.6 front/rear.
Problem is now I sometimes hear this clunking sound from the rear. It doesn't happen very frequently, just every once in a while when i drive through a small&sudden bump.
Only from the rear, nothing from front of the car.
Another thing is that when i reverse & turn (ex. getting out of garage), it makes one or two cracking noise from the front, small clunking sound from the rear.
I'm suspecting the strut may be bad. The mechanic guy said that my rear struts are bad (when he was installing the springs).
Am I in need to get new struts ?
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I just bought a 2006 camry a few days ago and am noticing a little problem with the heat. It warms up fine when idling but blows weak and cooler when driving....there is also a slight engine noise. Not sure if related, I am by far not a mechanic. I did try to research this issue but am coming up with more of the opposite (no or weak heat idling/great heat while driving). We are replacing thermostat tomorrow. As far as other maintenance goes it seems that the previous owner just did oil changes and nothing else in the last 3 years (35k since then). Trying to do all the little things now but would like to resolve this issue while I have it in the shop.
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The light output from these headlights has always been less that other cars on the road. I polished the lenses with the latest stuff. They look nice and clear, but the lights are not brighter. I put in new bulbs. No difference. I have a solution. Since I seldom use the brights, I want to drive with the brights on all the time and aim the lights so they are not blinding to oncoming drivers or drivers that I am following. How do I accomplish this?
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We've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
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I had a 2012 Camry but has not found the TPM display on it. It has fuel info and trip history when push the CAR button. I thought it should be there. How do I locate or set it up? Or it is not standard on LE?
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On my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
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As in lunge. I first noticed this about two months ago (I bought the car three months ago) when I was braking on straight, level ground, but it was raining and I was crossing railroad tracks while I was braking. Fortunately, no one was in front of me. The sensation wasn't merely a loss of braking traction (sliding), this felt like a momentary, power mode/full throttle thrust. Straight forward. At the time, I was clearly caught off guard, but the effect/sensation was quite momentary, almost as if someone had mildly rear-ended me.
Braking after that moment was normal. The effect didn't replicate itself again until recently when I was braking for a stoplight on a sh-tty concrete road where the sections have a slight tilt to them. This is exaggerated of course, but the sections are like this: ///////, meaning there is a 1/4 to 1" dropoff from one section to the next. there is one particularly pronounced dropoff close to the stoplight. The effect happened again and it is reproducible. Again, it is not merely the sensation of taking your foot off the brake, but one of a momentary punch of acceleration. No appreciable sound of higher engine revs.
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So I installed a new f23 turbo about a month ago now. Doug over at frankenturbo has been working with me to tune my car, but we have figured there is a possible boost leak. I've checked all my hoses and can not find any bad connections. My current setup is a forge twintercooler, cts intake, and a ecs boost gauge. I've been over everything 3 times now and can not see where anything could be leaking. I can tell you when in low rpm's the power and boost is very weak. Doug suggested to turn the wastegate up and we did. Still no result for the low rpm to build boost. I'm at a loss.
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As you can glean from Discussion Title, I have a 97 Honda Accord that has been weak in producing cold air with the a/c on since we bought it three years ago. The car has been the "third car" for kids to drive so not a big deal. Now that one of the "kids" is commuting this summer to an internship, the hot car is a problem. I drove the car this morning as I just drive to the train, and noticed mist coming out of the dashboard vents when the a/c was on. The mist stopped when the a/c was turned off.
Does this misting mean we have an evaporator core leak, or other problem? It certainly doesn't seem like just a freon boost is needed. If the evaporator core needs to be replaced, how bad a job is that? I replaced one in a '72 Plymouth Duster once and didn't seem so bad.
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Yesterday I took test drive of Toyota Camry SE 2012 (New).It was really good, except: When I came out of the car, I felt some change in vision and a bit of headache. The feeling was something similar to when you wear glasses which has significant number for a minute and then you take them off.I figured out this was because of the windshield having some distortions. So, are all new Camrys like this only or there was something wrong with that particular windshield?
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My problem started five months ago and was very intermittent until now. The engine would run rough at start up either cold of hot and then run fine after about two or three miles. Now it runs rough all the time. I have installed a new ignition coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs. The engine starts ok but it runs rough and when I pull the spark plug wires one at a time,while it is running, the spark is very weak on cylinders 2 and 4. The spark on the other two cylinders looks good. I have checked the connector on the powertrain control module, which is a EEC-V, and there doesn't seem to be any bad connections there.
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I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat GLS. Bought it used just the other day with no radio in it. I put my after market Blaupunkt in it today and it took me seriously 5seconds. Instantly had sound, but it was only coming from the driver's side front and rear, but the volume was weak in the rear. I was going to look for the amp, but idk if it had the monsoon sound or not. Has 4 speakers and 4 tweeters, but i'm not sure if it's the Monsoon sound or Premium.
why my antenna is very weak as well? why I have weak/no sound output from my speakers, if I have premium or monsoon sound and why I have such a weak antenna and how to fix all of these things.
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I'm having issues with my Sante Fe. 6cyl model, 130k-ish miles.
The door lock issue is ongoing and hasn't been more than an inconvenience. When you try and use the power locks, often it doesn't completely lock the front doors. Other times they don't move at all. Sometimes they work fine. It is kind of a crap shoot. So...that is number one. Thought I would add it in while
This week it has developed an RPM surge usually between 2k and 3k rpms. It has happened with the air on and the air off. I tried being gentler on the pedal and that seemed to make it less frequent but I was also driving REALLY slow.
I put the car in manual (auto-stick or whatever it is called) and while it waited until nearly red-line to shift, it did not seem to have the issue. I am pretty sure the car is actually shifting gears which is causing the surge. What is causing it and there are no other issues.
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Last night after driving my Touareg all day, I went to start it and everything lit up like it should, but when I turned the key nothing. I could not even get it into neutral. It took over three hours to get someone who could get it on a flat bed and tow it to the dealer. It is a 2005 V8 with 48,000 miles. I keep an eye on the voltage gauge and have not seen it drop below 14 volts. Is this symptomatic of a weak battery?
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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I have 06 ford explorer in which the air comes out the main vents really weak! I've replaced the Blend Door Actuator thinking that would fix the problem but it didn't . The blower motor works the air gets cold and hot and the defroster and floor vents is where the air comes out strong.
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I have 2013 ES300h. The air vent that goes to the back seats (in the middle of the console, 2 vents pointing back) is extremely weak.
There is no separate control so i have to turn up the the fan to hurricane level for the back to get anything they can feel through those vents.
Is this a fixable problem? or just a quirk i gotta live with of ES300H ?
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