Camry :: Code P0128 On 2003 Solara - Thermostat Coolant Below Temp
Aug 6, 2013
I'm getting a P0128 thermostat coolant below temp. Coolant level checks out. Temp sensor seems to work. It climbs to 160 and holds steady. I simultaneously had a thermometer in the top of the radiator. It went from 86 to 160 with with jump from 86 to 135 which corresponded to the temp sensor reading of 135.
I am assuming this is the thermostat opening. So, the level is right. The sensor is working and the thermostat appears to open and close. Why its throwing a code?
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
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2002 Camry 4 cyclinder. P0128 code - replaced the thermostat and coolant. P0128 code is now locked in. Lifetd the battery cable, but it is still there when I start the engine - or - it comes comes back immediately when I start the engine. Coolant temperature looks normal on the dashboard gage when I drive the car. What should I do now?
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I have an engine code of P0128 (low coolant temp etc.) I now think it's because I no longer have an Engine Splash Shield under my engine and the extra air is cooling the engine. I took it off after backing into a snow bank like an idiot. At first I thought it might be that I poured green coolant into the pink coolant because I lost coolant cleaning the throttle body (120,000miles). This mixture supposedly causes clumping and clogs in the system etc. Since then I flushed the coolant system and replaced it with yellow coolant which popular mechanics said was OK. So I'm left with the question of do i change it again to the pink coolant (~$50 compared to ~$15 for yellow coolant, thats why i got the yellow) or do i get an engine splash guard? Or Both?
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I have unfortunately inherited a 2007 Toyota Camry LE at the passing of an uncle. I recently purchased an Innova 3140 b diagnostic scanner which pulled up several codes. One of which keeps popping back.
P0128 refers to (according to innova).
Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the codes came back after a few days. I cleared it once again and the code reappeared that same day. I have a thermostat on standby ready to install if the fix requires such.
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I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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I'm getting a P0128 code on my 2003 V4 Camry. Autozone diagnosis says it's either
a) coolant low level
b) sensor not working correctly
c) thermostat not working correctly.
As part of 90k mile check about 3500 miles ago, the mechanic replaced the coolant. I didn't check the coolant after he had replaced it but I just checked it today and it's about 1 inch below the full level. Is this normal coolant usage considering that it's been about 3500 miles and 3 months since it was last filled?If the coolant level is okay, then how do I figure out if it's the sensor/thermostat?
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After buying and installing the low temp thermostat, fan switch and green top sensor, I'm still encountering boiling in the line and a temp of 3/4 of the way when at idle. My coolant mixture is about 70/30 and unfortunately I had to use a temporary fix of the prestone universal coolant mix due to the dealer being closed and I didn't want to add more water
What would be the disadvantages of running straight g12 coolant? My issue is boiling and I figure the more coolant and less water, the less chance of boiling to occur.
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I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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I have a 2003 Solara 4cyl, some months ago it started to blow light blue smoke on start, but would go away after a few minutes. My mech, could be the valve guides. Then about a month ago it blew a head gasket, didn't overheat though, as I stopped, added water and went to the mech. So new gasket and a valve job, but it still blows smoke on start. THe mech said going to 20w50 might work, it didn't. I check the oil last week, thought it should a couple of qts low, so I added oil, but the blue smoke is still there, and I started to smell oil burning. I thought maybe I added too much, so I add another oil change w/20w50....still have the oil burning, blue smoke on start... The mech thinks might be leaking in the rings...ugh....probably could/ve bought a new engine by now...... The check engine light had been intermittent, the mech said it the catalytic converter....it finally went off by itself four days ago....maybe it burned out..........
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Few weeks ago I threw a CEL for an engine coolant temp. It went away and came back now as a P3081, I don't recall that being the code before. But from what I understand It is a simple sensor that I can replace myself. Car is running fine and not overheating.. it did however overheat the last time It threw a CEL but that was also stop and go traffic with AC on.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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I was driving today when the CEL came on, I scanned the car which gave me 1 code: P1296.
I googled it and said it is possibly the coolant temp sensor?
The Engine temp was normal at 190' or just below even after quite a bit of driving today.
Would the problem just be the sensor or should I be looking for other problems as well?
The car is a 2002 B5.5 AWM 1.8T Tiptronic.
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So my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
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Threw a coolant temp sensor code yesterday morning:
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too high
p0118 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Does throwing that code once mean I need to replace the CTS immediately or am I safe to clear the code and see if it returns? No code today after a 40 minute drive.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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