Camry :: Front Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement On 2007 SE


Apr 4, 2013

Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.

How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...

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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?

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Mazda :: No Power To Front Passenger Wheel After Bearing Replacement

I have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.

Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?

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I have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?

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Accord :: 2007 SE Front Wheel Stud Replacement

I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.

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I replaced the driver's side wheel bearing on my 2001 venture and now the ABS light goes on about 5 to 10 seconds after starting the car. It stays on through out the drive. Before the light goes on I get a sound as if passing your fingers up and down an old fashioned washboard. I have read throughout these threads to replace the bearing but I don't foresee that happening. How can this bearing be bad when the car feels great driving now.

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Sierra :: Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement / Integrated ABS Sensors

My 2005 GMC Sierra has just >80,000 kms on it, and I'm having to replace a second wheel bearing hub. A few months ago, the rear left wheel almost came off because the bearings were falling out of the hub. Yesterday, the same thing happened while traveling on a highway with the front left wheel. While my truck was being pulled up onto the tow truck, all the bearings fell out of the wheel - one was completely ground, the others were perfect. A few more turns or bumps and I suspect I would have lost the wheel.

I didn't have any grinding noises with the front tire (although I did with the rear) - the front hub deteriorated really quickly (within 100kms of driving), and it sounded like cables snapping while driving which was likely the bearings tumbling around.

Having problems with the GMC Sierra wheel bearing hubs/integrated ABS sensors? Should the hubs be wearing out so quickly? It seems like a safety hazard to me, since there wasn't any early warning signs of a major hub meltdown.

And I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I've also had to have my rotors ground down 3 times and replaced once since new.

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My 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: ABS And ESC Off Lights On After Wheel Bearing Replacement

I have sonata 2006 v6 3.3. Over the weekend Left rear wheel bearing was replaced. Right after the replacement ABS + ESC OFF lights came on and stayed. I took the battery connection out and restart the car but no difference. There is no affect on driving or performance car drives normally, Cruise operation works normal as well. Mechanic scanned and scanner showed right real wheel sensor malfunction. He claimed that he didn't even open the right rear wheel. I am hoping it's not the sensor.

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Phaeton :: ABS Warning Light On After Wheel Bearing Replacement

I had the drivers side rear wheel bearing replaced and now the ABS warning light is on. The shop also replaced the wheel speed sensor. The car appears to drive fine and the brakes work fine, although without ABS. The light does not come on immediately upon start up. It normally will appear after the car is driven a bit, could be a few hundred yards or a mile.

My first thought is that whatever it is that serves as a "trigger" for the speed sensor got damaged during bearing replacement. I don't know what this trigger is, or exactly where it is located, presumably in the hub.

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Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.

Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.

Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.

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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.

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