2009 V6 Auto. The car runs perfectly, the cel and traction lights have been on for a year. I bought a scangague that reads and resets them. The code returns within 10 minutes of driving after being cleared. The code refers to 'air bleed circuit'. Fuel economy is about the same as our other V6 Camry of the same model. Any clues?
View 4 Replies2002 B5 1.8T, 54,000 miles. When you turn on the A/C it blows hot air. After 10 or 15 minutes of driving it turns icy cold then sometimes returns to hot air.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
View 19 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai Accent Hatchback (manual) is tripping the code P0422 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). If i clear the code it will pop back up after about 40-60 miles of driving. I hooked my OBDII sensor to it and look at the voltage output from the two O2 sensors and the front one oscillates between .2 to .7V and the downstream one does as well switching about at the rate. From my understanding the downstream O2 sensor should stay fairly steady or at least switch much slower than the upstream one. I get pretty good gas mileage, typ. ~30mpg. Luckily my state does not have emission testing. Is it actually the catalytic converter, the downstream O2 sensor or something else?
View 10 Replies2002 Camry 4 cylinder. I've replace the o2 sensor the one in "Bank 1". I've cleared the check engine light three times now and it still comes on about 30 plus miles. Do I need to reset the ECU? Or replace the catalytic converter?
View 11 RepliesI have a '12 Focus and for no apparent reason the A/C will turn off and warm air enters the car for 1-3 minutes and then returns to normal cold A/C air. It doesn't matter if it's on "max A/C" which will circulate the air inside the car or just the coldest setting on the A/C, high fan, low fan, it just happens. What usually happens is that I'm driving 40 or 45, then have to slow down (stoplight, etc.) and speed up again, during the slow down is when the A/C turns off and warm air enters the car. As soon as I'm driving 45 again for a minute it usually kicks back to cold air. OR, while driving on the freeway at 60 - 70mph after about 15-20 minutes it all of a sudden stops cooling and I get warm air in the car. It's been checked by 2 different dealers already 4 times and they never found anything wrong with the A/C System. It did have an actual leak a few weeks ago and that got repaired but it still has this mysterious behavior.
View 5 RepliesWhich one is the ect? One is the ect and one is a switch for something?
Just gone done switching that POS plastic thermostat housing thing, both sensors were replaced not sure which one is throwing the code.
I have cleared the code and it keeps coming back.
I have a 2005 F150 5.4 and I recently got a p0175 code. I've replaced the M.A.F. sensor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, new plugs, coils and checked the vac lines but I'm still getting a p0175 code. Ive reset my P.C.M. and the code stopped for 2 weeks but returned later. The truck runs fine when I erase the code but when it returns it hesitates on take off and has a slight shake like a misfire and it makes a bubbly popping sound from the exhaust. Im at a loss of what to do next! Could this be a code stuck in the P.C.M.? My mechanic thinks it may be the cam phasers!
View 5 Replies2006 Toyota Camry LE (4 cyl) with 149,500 miles. All maintenance up to date.
Over the past month, anytime I drive over 80 mph within 15 minutes, the CEL comes on with the code P0420. I read the code and erase it. The funny thing is typically I'm getting very good gas mileage during that tankful when the CEL comes on. I've read that it is likely the downstream oxygen sensor and I plan to replace it. (In February, I replaced the air/fuel sensor). My two questions are:
a) What is the part number for the oxygen sensor (non-California emissions)? I want to make sure I get the right part.
b) Why the CEL comes on after travel over 80 mph? Is this coincidence or is there a reason why this happens?
2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 207K miles on it. I recently replaced the catalytic converter on it in order to fix the P0420 code. I drove the car to work the next day and the test came back under the max specs. I drove back home and everything was fine. No more CEL.
Now I have the problem where the car starts normal when its cooled down, but if I drive it for a few minutes and turn it off and back on again it stalls. If I let it cool down for a minute it will turn on but idle really rough like at 400 RPMs. At times it will stall back again.
The only other thing I did differently was pump a full tank of gas at a different gas station than I normally do. Before I changed the CAT I had no problems like this.
I have a 1998 Camry V6 with 165000 miles. I had brake pads and rotors replaced on all four tires. Two days later, I noticed a flapping/knocking noise apparently coming from the rear of the car. It only happens after the car as been driving for 5-10 minutes. The noise increases in frequency as the speed of the vehicle increases and is unaffected by braking or bumps and gets louder the longer the car is driven. I took the car back and they re-checked all the brake installations and said everything was fine and the noise was nothing to worry about (of course I had to convince them that there really was a noise). They also said they inspected the tires and didn't find anything wrong. I have jacked the car up and looked under all tires and don't see anything close to the tires that could be hitting them. It sounds like a strip of rubber hitting a metal pan. I see no loose plastic guards or mudflaps. The tires were all replaced less than 2 years ago and they have been rotated regularly and visually appear to be in good shape.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
Having to parallel park a LOT, I coded the car (using VCDS) to do mirror dip on reverse. Has saved me multiple times from curbing my right rear wheel (even more, anyway).
However, when I pull away, the mirror returns from dip to random heights. Sometimes it's a bit higher, sometimes lower, sometimes facing the sky.
It's then pretty dangerous when I check the right mirror (to merge) and realize I can't see the cars behind/to-the-side.
How to fix this?
. Use a different control module?
. I thought about wiring a resistor into the "up" motor motion, so that it slows down on return, and ends up in a lower position.
. Physically block the motor somehow so that it stops at the right height.
I find the home screen to be a great idea and I generally love it. Today, while using the navigation system, the system kept returning me to the home screen after a few minutes of not interacting with it. I'm fine with it doing this on the audio or weather apps, but when I'm actively navigating I'd rather it would stay on the nav screen until I hit the home button. I skimmed the settings and the manual but did not see this addressed anywhere. Is there a setting I am missing someplace?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius. Today my wife said it started driving odd and all the lights on the dash came on. When I got home, I confirmed that all the lights are on, then drove it through the neighborhood. It seemed like it was being really sluggish and you would have to give it more gas than normal to get it going. Then I can hear the battery fan blowing at what seems like full speed through the vent next to the rear passenger door.
I put the car in diag mode by doing the headlight on/off trick 3 times.
When I did that, the following codes are showing in the LAN Monitor EMV screen.
Code Sub Code
01- DC 190- 17- 3
01- D8 190- 14- 1
01- D5 190- 27- 7
01- DB 190- 5C- F
I cleared the codes hoping the lights would go off on the dash, but no luck.
This is in reply to a question I just heard on the radio show from Stash (sp?) I believe. He has a jetta and the there is a fast clicking coming from the turn signal after it is used and returns to the "neutral" position. I have a GTI of similar vintage and replacing the blinker did not work. What does work is even cheaper! Get some CRC electronics cleaner from the local auto store and spray out inside of the turn signal switch. What happens is, over the years the lube inside of the switch wears away, allowing the contacts to wear against each other, creating little metal debris that ends up completing the circuit. The CRC cleaner dissolves all of the gunk and gives the necessary clearance inside the switch to allow it to function properly.
View 1 RepliesI had a check engine light come on yesterday, so went to go check out the codes today with an OBD scanner. After I plugged in the device, the ABS, VSC, ((!)) and brake lights all came on like they do when the car is started - however, this time they did not turn off.
View 1 RepliesOver the last few days, noticed immediately after starting car with AC on , slight mildew smell from the vents. Seems to last a few seconds then clears.
My Gen 3 is just over a year old with 10K miles. Most times my HVAC is set Auto/75/AC on, and use no special procedures to vent the evaporator with non/cooled air prior to shutting off the car.
I have the notorious EVAP codes that have been intermittent for years now. But a few months ago, the problem got much worse and now codes are set almost instantly after getting cleared. The "Check the Gas Cap" message comes up about once in ten trips.
The thing I noticed almost immediately once the problem became persistent, was the silence. Usually my air pump belts out a high-pitched scream when the car first starts. Now it doesn't seem to come on every start. But, it still comes on sometimes.
So, is the air pump the likely culprit or does the pump not come on under certain conditions (like a loss of vacuum, faulty solenoid, etc)? I know that an A/C compressor won't engage when there's not enough pressure in the system. Is this a similar situation?