Camry :: Subtle Clicking Noise - Blower Motor Works Intermittently
Nov 18, 2015
So for a few months now, my car has been making a subtle clicking noise whenever I have the ac or heat on, kind of similar to the noise spokes on a bike would make when children put a card in them. The noise increases/decreases in speed as I adjust the ac/heater speed.
Recently though, it's gotten to a point where sometimes, the blower motor would completely stop working. I can still feel heat and cold coming through the vents when I turn the AC on, but the it doesn't always blow air. I've noticed that sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, it starts working again. It works at all settings and all temperatures perfectly (when it's working that is).
How should I proceed? I don't know much about cars, but from what I've seen on the internet, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the blower motor. I just want to be sure that the blower motor is indeed the cause, because I don't want to install a new one to be disappointed when I turn it on and still have the same issue. And winter is just around the corner so I would love to get this taken care of.
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My 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
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My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
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My wife has a 06 Sonata with the Manual AC controls. The blower motor works intermittently. Sometimes it works, other times it does not. It does not matter which setting the HVAC is in. Yesterday while driving it, we went over a bump in the road and the motor started running again. Since the motor runs, I want to discount the fuse and relay.
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The speedometer on my car works intermittently. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. It will jump from different speeds dropping to zero. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else?
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So my AC only works on 4 (no 1, 2, 3). I replaced the resistor as is often the culprit. NOTHING. Still only works on 4. So I unplugged the resistor all together, still only works on 4. So, either my new replacement resistor is also bad (unlikely), or it's the blower motor.
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I'm getting this weird chirping noise from what sounds like the A/C and Heat fan. When I turn it down it is noticeable and sounds like something needs oiled. Kind of like pieces of plastic hitting each other over and over again. When I turn the air up there's no noise but probably because the air rushing out is so loud. I'm thinking I may need to take something out and oil it up. Too cold here to do my own thorough investigation.
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blower motor was intermittent on my 08 prius, now only works when i spin it. Looking for a pdf or instructions on replacing it myself?
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I don't know if its a coincidence but it rained hard all weekend and went to work this morning to find out the blower motor only on 4(high). I checked the plug going into blower motor and it looks dry and clean. is there a common occurrence with this? What to look for?
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Co-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
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2001 f350 blower motor for (A/C - Heater) works sometimes and sometimes does not.
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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Front Blower Motor does not work. 2005 Honda Odyssey, EX-L130,000 miles and I expect at least 170,000 miles more.
History – Over the past four years, the front blower motor has operated intermittently. I noticed that when the weather went through large changes (warm/humid to cold/dry or vice versa), the fbm would not run. The system behaved in the manner described by Honda owners in many of the forums online. After a period of time passed, the blower would function properly again until the next weather change.
About two months ago, the blower stopped working again and it has not returned to form since. The system again displays all the usual symptoms reported on-line. The rear blower works fine.
The controls on the dash seem to be fine (display changes appropriately as I select settings, vents open and close for heat or A/C or which vents I want open). Air flows through the vents selected when I am driving – I have a passive windshield defroster!
Here are the steps that I have taken during the past week:
1.Bought a new transistor/resistor module, OEM Honda Part #79330-SDG-W41 (I checked with a local dealer for the correct part number). I installed it but there is no change in the system.
2.I found information on-line to test the T/R. I checked the old one – Thermal Cut Out is intact and the resistance between posts 3 & 4 (lower pair when installed) is 1,500 ohms. I checked the new transistor and it read out the same.
3.Fuses, relays, power to the blower, blower, ground beyond the transistor are all fine.
4.I reconnected the T/R and fbm and let the fbm lay on the car floor. I started the car with the fan on. Each time I start the car (or turned the ignition ‘On’) the fbm tries to run, but stops in an instant.
The Rat is cornered – it's in the the T/R and the control signal from the control panel to the T/R corner. If I bypass these elements, the fbm goes on and off as I select the fan On/Off from the control panel.
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My B6 only has 1500 miles and I have noticed after I had the dealer replace a defective fuel rail w/only 400 miles on car a click'n noise when I am driving.
For example. When I take off from a stop, and accelerate to lets say 15-20mph and then take my foot off the accelarator, let the the engine(rpms) idle back to normal, and then re-accelarate again, immediately I hear a "CLICK" (only one x, and its not a really loud, its kinda subtle, but still you can hear it from inside the car) coming from under my feet area, very briefly and then the car takes off.
At first I thought this was normal, but of course I could not dismiss this, seeing that this is a brand new car, and figured........"well it shouldn't".
BTW, I just tinted my windows (35%) on my black B6 and it looks fantastic.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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When I accelerate, particularly between the 50-60 mph range, the engine makes a very subtle, yet definite clicking noise. Mentioned this to the dealer - the car is still under warranty - and of course, they can't replicate the sound..is this common?
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My Blower motor is intermittently going on and off. After messing with it for a while it seems to stay on. Motor may be going out. Not real easy to change the blower motor on this 2008. Haynes manual says to take the 2008 and up trucks to the dealer.
2008 F250 4DR 5.4L
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So either these trucks have a super small window wash reservoir or there is something wrong with my truck. The window washer works just fine and then stops. The washer motor is still working but nothing coming out. I fill it up to the top again and suddenly it works just fine. The thing is that when I fill it up it only takes between 1 and 2 quarts of water. I'd imagine the recover probably holds close to a gallon so not sure why mine quits working and then is full after 1 to 2 quarts of water is added. Perhaps the pickup tube in mine is bent or something? No light or message on the dash...it just stops.
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First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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The blower fan works just fine, when i put my hand up to the vent i can barely feel air coming out, but something is blocking it. this is for all vents (floor, windshield and all four vents on dash).
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I have a 2009 Camry SE. Yesterday it would not crank and I wound up having to replace the battery. Now the ac blower motor runs even when the ignition is off and when the ignition is on, I cannot control the speed of the blower. I had to unplug the blower motor to make it stop. What would cause this?? Everything else seems to work fine.
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