Caravan/Voyager :: 2007 Dodge - Passenger Side Headlight Does Not Work On High Or Low Beams
Jan 15, 2015
My 2007 Dodge Caravan has only one working headlight, the passenger side does not work on high or low beams.
At this time I'm wondering if the problem is in the headlight plug itself, because there are no other complications other than the passenger side not working.
The light did work at first on high beams but now not at all. replacing bulbs makes no difference. There is some brown discoloring on the white strip on the plug face, nothing like this on the driver side.
Also hoping that the problem is not the relay or front control module.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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I have a problem with our 97 Grand Caravan, (3.3L, 41TE tranny) Its a vibration that seems to be coming from the passenger side CV Axle.... the transmission side of the universal joint on the new axle.
We started having problems with this in December, I've done most of the work myself but still had the problem... Vibrations that seem to start and get worse at around 35 - 55 MPH. I've replaced rims, wheel bearings, both cv axles, tires, brake pads & rotors, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends, (inner & outer) and ball joints. (about $1,200. in new parts & tires)
In April, I finally took it to several transmission shops and talked to the operators.... The shop I chose because I could relate to the owner and felt I could trust him. The wife and I knew it was a vehicle we couldn't replace for the price of a transmission overhaul and when the shop called and told me all was fixed by replacing the new cv axle on the passenger side I was ecstatic that the problem would be fixed.... I go ahead and rebuild the transmission anyway, (now @ 289,000 miles!) .... The wife and I want to get as many miles out of this thing as we can at this point and our daughter will be driving it to high school next year.
Anyway, I get the car back late on a friday evening.... by the time I got it home I knew there was a big problem.... I put it up on jacks in the garage and saw the passenger side axle was "Slamming" in and out of the transmission!!! I test drove it on a few more short trips and took it back a week later.
About 1 1/2 weeks later I get a call and the shop owner says it is the CV axle thats bad.... AGAIIN??? Lets see, I replaced the original axles. Then "they" replaced both axles after I returned the ones I put in for warranty (Autozone) and now a 3rd axle is bad too? He insists on a different brand of axle (Napa). So when I get the car back, I again am feeling some vibrations.... not nearly as bad as it was before, and put the car up on jacks again.
This time, I don't see the axle slamming in and out of the tranny but I see the vibration comming from the trany side of the CV axle. (passenger side axle again) and I notice some grey goop on the housing fitting that wasn't there before on the trany.... This is when I started having my doubts about the shop and what they are telling me. They just replaced the axle, didn't do anything in the tranny. To beat all, theres now a fluid leak somewhere and its staining the garage floor.
Its been over two weeks now and the shop owner called me to tell me that its again the passenger side axle thats bad and that its a seal somewhere tha'ts leaking so he's gonna have to pull the tranny to get at it. I told him what I saw when I put it up on jacks in my garage.... the vibrating CV axle on the passenger side of the tranny.... He assures me that if it were a bearing it would be making some noises. He's even sent the car to a trusted tire shop and they turned the rim on the tire or something.... he's doing everything he can to make sure the problem is taken care of.
I know what I saw under the car. Just the "passenger side" axle as it is coming out of the transmission housing is moving up/down/around and that's where my vibration is coming from. The end of the axles (tire side) were running true. What's involved in repairing the differential side bearings in these tranny's? I'm going fully loaded to the Transmission shop when its ready and I'm going to insist we look at it while its on the rack. I just need to know how to check these differential side bearings.
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My 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
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I have checked fuse 46 and 47, and installed new headlight bulbs. I have high beams, but no low beams. I have searched this topic but no one has the same prob it seems. My headlight switch has broken. Could it be the headlight switch?
In my manual, it says the 2002 has a fuse panel behind the glove box. I took glove box out but it doesn't look like a fuse panel.
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08 SANTA FE, NO HI OR LOW BEAMS. Daylight running lites work, fog lites work, checked all fuses, relays, and bulbs,& connectors.
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The normal lo-beams won't turn on no matter what I do, but the brights still work. The bulbs are good, the fuses are good. I've tested and changed those. They're good. 2008 Santa Fe ....
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I recently installed new halo HID headlights in my 2003 f150 with HID bulbs and ballast the passenger side worked and the drivers side didn't nth lights wired exactly the same. I switched everything from the passenger to the drivers side still nothing I switched everything back to passenger side and they don't work now. I tired regular bulbs in the passenger side an it worked then on the drivers side and it worked for a split second and went out and then I retried t on the passenger side and it worked for a split second and went out a now neither are working. I checked all the fuses and their good. What the problem could be?
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I am getting water on the passenger-side floor. I would like to clean the AC drain tube but am not sure how to access it.
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I have a 2002 dodge caravan that leaks water on the passenger side floor board when the a.c is on. I have had it to three mechanics and each has said they fixed it by cleaning the tube that on the left side of the firewall. one even put a sealer around the tube and firewall saying it was leaking through the factory sealant. but like old faithful the van leaks still what can I do?
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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Last year at WiTW, abeR noticed that my headlights were all cockeyed. He attempted to fix them but couldn't get them to work properly. The self levelers weren't working and the passenger side was always shining for squirrels.
I took it to the dealership and after a bit of troubleshooting, they replaced the entire headlight assembly. Warranty is good.
All was good with the world, but now we discovered that the passenger side is acting up again. The self levelers work when you turn on the car, but the shutter to put on the brights on the passenger side will not work when you pull the stalk.
Just seems weird that this unit is so much trouble.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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I did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
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