Caravan/Voyager :: Whining Sound From The Start / Belt Came Off
Dec 4, 2013
Bought this cheap 93 grand caravan 3.3 with about 350,000km about 750km ago and it had a bit of a whining sound from the start, thought it was normal for it's life. Last night I was taking my daughter and infant grand-daughter home when there was a terrible clunking, grinding and rattling sound coming from the engine. It was about -20 outside so I decided to just limp it home, but when I got a block from my daughters house I lost power steering. I checked under the hood an saw the belt on the left side with all the pulleys had come off and only one pulley near the bottom was spinning. after trying to spin the other pulleys i noticed one wouldn't spin ether way,and was really hot. thought it might have seized up and threw the belt. Is there a pulley in there that's not supposed to move freely, and if not what should I do now?
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1990 Dodge Caravan ... I replaced belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley. The serpentine belt comes off when it rains.
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I've got some trouble with my 2010 T&C Touring and the A/C system. I believe it is specific to the rear, but not 100% sure yet.
Here's the symptom, while driving home a few nights ago, I noticed a hissing sound from somewhere under the dash. Research led me to believe that the r-134a was low, so I bought a few cans and charged it up. I drove around yesterday with the fresh refill, and all was well. This morning, I noticed that I hadn't been running the rear A/C, and thus, not doing a full test.
So, I turned on the rear A/C and within just a few minutes, started hearing the hissing sound again. Flash back to a couple of weekends, I replaced brakes/rotors and while inspecting after taking a test drive noticed some water pooling up under the rear passenger side tire. I checked it out, but at the time, it didn't seem significant until today when I started to put this all together.
SO, my question is, what would be leaking right above the tire? Is this something that is super common and I could somehow convince my local dealer to repair out of "good will" like was happening with the '06 model year with a similar issue? I've had to do brakes, rotors and as a result of not knowing that Chrysler calipers can't be pressed in, but instead must be wound in, replaced calipers, and also an EGR valve all at the same time. So, needless to say, I'm not excited about doing further repair.
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I have a 99 voyager that has started making a whirring sound this last week. The water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner have all been replace several months ago. The battery light came on for about a minute and then went off the last night. I checked the voltage with the engine running and it measured 12.5, the same as when it is off. When I revved it up the voltage went up to 14.4 volts. Is this normal? What could be making the whirring sound?
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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I have changed the oil, all filters, spark plugs and wires but the problem is still there. At start up it vibrates and sputters, gets worse at take off, lessens at 55mph but if i floor the gas it stops. Takes a lot more power to reach speeds. As much as 3000 rpm to get to 45 and almost 4000 rpm to get to 55mph. How i can fix this?
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I just replaced the transmission in my 2000 3.3L Grand Voyager and now it won't start. It started fine when I drove it into the shop. The battery is good, the cables are ok. The starter worked good up to this point. I checked all the connections to make sure they are tight. I replaced the transmission because reverse went out.
When I turn on the key, the shift letters (PND32) appear on the instrument panel, but the little circle that shows what gear it is in does not appear. When you turn the key to the run position, the circle should be around the P to show it is in park.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. No clicks or anything. The next thing I am going to do is see if there is power to the starter when the key is in the start position. Where to start looking?
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I have a 99 Voyager with 88,000 miles. Brand new battery 12/12/06- won't start 3 weeks later - cleaned & protected battery connectors - still no start if left for more then 4 hours undriven Battery tested fine- being drained approx 2 amps- something left on...? Now there is a clicking sound under the dash before trying to start. Could it be some type of relay being left open or fuse or
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We have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and has a whistling noise when starting up? We are in Wisconsin and its damn cold. It only does it when its cold out. Once the engine warms up it goes away. But my wife is freaking out about it. I am thinking it might be something with the air intake but not sure.
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I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, 75,000 miles. The van suddenly will not attempt to start. The strange thing is that when the key is turned to RUN I cannot hear the fuel pump. The normal 2 or so second on growl at the initial key turn is not there. When turned to start the clock on the radio goes out and no crank. I have found that the start relay is not passing on the signal to the starter. If I jump across the two pins going to the starter, the starter cranks fine. The van will still not start because I believe it has no fuel,due to the fuel pump not running. I thought first that it must be the neutral safety switch but does that have any control of the fuel pump also? I have found that the neutral safety switch requires that I remove the valve body for access.
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We bought a new battery the van would not spark when the battery was fully charged but when the battery gets low it start to spark...
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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I have a 97 dodge caravan engine 3.0. When I start to accelerate my engine fuse 20amp blows. I does not occur every time but yesterday, it did it 6 times and is now getting looked at. I am just curious on what causes this. I did recently have my spark plugs changed so I am thinking something may be arching.
I do have codes that previously came up for my fuel injectors (P0203, p0206). Another code I have is p1294 idle speed performance.
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I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.
On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.
I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.
Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."
So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!
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I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
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2008 ISF. Has made whining sound (like a supercharger) off and on since '11 and 30k miles. Clearly coming from accessory belt system.
Having read this forum I assumed it was the tensioner, and finally replaced it last week @ 52k. Spun all pulleys by hand and all felt/sounded fine. Actually the old tensioner seemed fine too, even the belt- no cracks or wear, so I didn't replace belt at first, just tensioner.
Well new tensioner reduced the sound just a little, but still there at times, so I replaced the belt with a goodyear gatorback and that made the whine worse than ever. So I put the old belt back on, and am currently still dealing with some whine,
I don't have another ISF to compare to, but it can't be normal. It's not loud in cabin, my friends don't think anything of it, but I hear it and it's embarrassing.
Since I cant hear or feel an issue with any of the pulleys, is there a logical order in which I should start replacing them? I'm at a loss as for what to do next. I can't pinpoint where noise originates since it only occurs under load while I'm driving, but it's certainly from the accessory belt system.
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Ok, so there's a whining sound that is going along with my RPMs, that is coming from the area of my belt, obviously i think its the belt. I am also leaking a little anti freeze. What this could be.
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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