Celica :: 1-ZZFE Engine Burning Excessive Oil
Jan 31, 2012
I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT with the stock 1ZZFE engine. I have had trouble with it ever since I got it. It burns a lot of oil. I was told that the seals were corroded and that thicker oil might work. I had to put a gallon of oil about every two weeks. It got so bad that I went from running 5W-30 to 10W-40. On my way home last night, it died on me at 197K. It was towed to my mechanic and come to find out, my engine is blown.
I am in the process of looking for a new motor. I realize that the 1ZZFE has oil problems, but have they been resolved is my question. I don't want to buy a motor that is going to have the same problem. And in the process of my engine being blown, could that have damaged anything else under my hood?
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2002 CE with 120K miles two months ago. the car seemed fine and drives fine too. After a while I found out that the seller had removed the "check engine" light, so I read the error code by a instrument and I got these errors. 171,420,441. And I noticed that the engine burn a quarter oil every 200 miles on long drives!I checked the VSV valve and connected hoses but no problem there. Since the car has just 120K miles, I'm not sure that the piston rings are worn out! I'm wondering what could cause all of these errors?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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So it appears I have another oil leak to contend with. I recently took the Celica on a road trip to Las Vegas, about 600 miles round trip. During the trip I would occasionally smell burning oil and upon retuning home I saw a puddle of oil, maybe four inches accross under the car. The only sign of leaking oil I could find on the car is at the front of the motor, coming from underneath the oil cooler, everything else is clean. It looks like the burning oil smell was from oil dripping on the exhaust but the puddle was farther back on the passenger side. How would the leaking oil pool farther back on the passenger side instead of directly under the actual leak? All the seals were replaced when the motor was swapped, so I can't see something on the timing belt side leaking.
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I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.
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Prius start consuming excessive engine oil.
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Having bought my 06 GX 470 only a few months ago, we're encountering 90-degree-plus days for the first time. There is an unusually loud noise from the engine that I'm almost sure is cooling fan noise. It occurs after running in the heat of the day. It's not mechanical noise, but a loud roar like that of a large truck engine. Is this typical for these models in the heat?
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I am having with our 2010 Santa Fe GLS (2.4L). Whenever I am stopped and in gear, I have an excessive about of engine vibration IMHO, my wife thinks not, but it just doesn't feel right to me. I can feel it in the seat and people sitting in the passenger side and in the back can also feel it. If I bump into neutral or am accelerating, the vibration goes away. I have no issues with hesitation or loss of power and no other issues/check engine light, etc. This has been happening since we purchased the vehicle, and I mentioned it to the dealer and was given the response that the engine needed sufficient time to be broken in...... I now have 15,000 miles and it still is an issue.
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I recently acquired a 2014 Sonata Limited 2.4L. Don't know if its me or not but engine noise seems to be excessive in the cabin especially when I am accelerating from a very low speed, almost like something in the engine is loose. Had it at the dealership today for warranty work (seat belt) and recall work and asked the techs to take a listen when the do their inspection. They came back and said that the noise is coming from the electric fuel pump and that it is totally normal. Previous car I had was a 2011 Honda Accord Ex and it seamed quieter.
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Those of you w/the "sport exhaust" on later 04's and 05's, at 80- MPH ... I get an engine exhaust resonance that varies with throttle. On throttle bad whine, off throttle no issue. Go 75 it's ok. Go 85 it's ok. My dealer hasn't heard of this. Not sure what can be done but on a long trip the drone will drive you nuts.
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I'm loving this 'new' 2004 prius with 177k miles on it that i just bought. In New England winters I'm still getting 40-45 mpg and I'm not even trying to get great MPG's.
1.) Wind noise : My biggest disappointment is excessive wind noise over 55 mph. I 'm using this car as a taxi and its so loud inside I'm a little embarrassed with customers in the car. It sounds to me that its coming from the passenger window or passenger side near the windshield, but I can not identify its location at all. I've always been the one driving when looking for it though.
I called a dealer that sells lots of gen II used prius's and he says its fairly common to replace the window seals? The car has a clean car fax.
2.) Mild clunk when the engine kicks on. Not all the time, but sometimes : Other thing is, I can sometimes feel and hear a mild clunk when the engine kicks on. I also feel a little bit if vibration when the engine is on and i'm idling (it was 16 degrees last night so the engine stays on for heat). The oil level is good. I'm due for change in the next 500 miles.
Is this anything I should be concerned about? I'm sure I'm just overly sensitive.
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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I just recently purchased an 07 Camry V6 with the 2GR-FE engine. I looked at the dipstick over the weekend and was surprised to see it was a quart low. I asked a friend about this and he informed me that Toyota engines are notorious for burning oil. Is this true? I previously owned a 94 Camry V6 that did not have this problem. Also, is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening, or slow down the burning.
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On the way into work today, I smelled a burning smell in my cabin. Got to work and opened the hood and it's very clearly something burning in the engine bay.
Coolant levels are good (even opened the coolant reservoir and it filled back up a bit, so it doesn't seem there's a coolant leak there), checked the dipstick and oil level seems good. MK6 GTI, just hit 21.5k miles. The only things I can think of are:
-Haven't replaced the cabin filter
-Intake may need to be cleaned? It's been on for about 10-12k and hasn't been cleaned yet.
Might also be just because my senses are heightened because of this, but the engine sounds louder than normal, specifically the lifters sound louder, but might just me being paranoid now. Been hearing about the headgasket possible 2.0 recall that's been bouncing around, so could it be that?
I want to take this to my car guy, but he's about 1.5-2 hours away, so I'm iffy on driving it that far.
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My "99 1.8T Passat has 92K miles. The past few weeks, the check engine light started to come on and I need to refill at least a liter of oil since the dipstick is showing I am low on it. What the problem is? Will it be an expensive fix? The car is still running great...just using up a lot of oil.
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Took about a 200 mile trip this weekend, stopped at a rest area about halfway through and smelled burnt carbon, smelled like a burnt clutch almost. It was very strong and there was smoke coming from the engine. It wasn't a lot but it was cause for concern. I checked the oil, last oil change about 1500 miles ago but no problems there, temp gauge was in the middle. Let the car sit for a 10 mins or so and then headed of again. When I got home that night, couldn't smell it and there was no smoke. Car has 42K ... Also, I got an airbag fault light about 30 mins from my house.
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I have a 2001 Kia Sedona mini van with about 148,000 miles on teh 6 cylinder engine. Since about the first of the year I have noticed a slight loss of engine oil over the past 4 months. It appears to be maybe about a quarter of a quart for about every 1000 miles or so. Up until then I had no issue with loss of oil. It is not leaking out that I can see as there are no drip signs on the underneath or ground, I have had no loss of antifreeze so am not sure how or where the oil might be going. My dad said that as some engines age and with this engine being now almost 11 years old with that many miles it wouldn't be out of line that the engine is "burning" the oil. Not sure what he means by that, but what might be a reason/s for the slight loss of oil.
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My engine bay smells of burning oil after driving for a while. I have cleaned up the engine in order to find the leak. There is some gunky residue on the belt side of the engine but that wouldn't cause the smell.
Crawling under the car I found that there appears to be a leak between the (what I think is) the aluminum intake side of the turbo and the cast iron center. You can see it in the videos below:
[URL] .....
This is the only leak near the exhaust that I can find. Does this mean that the seals inside my turbo are toast and I will need to either rebuild or replace it? What is the best course of action? Rebuild? New OEM Turbo?
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So I have been tying to find out what the Temp rating for a 7A-FE for so I know what thermostat to get. How impossible is it too find this info sometimes?
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