Celica :: 2000 GTS Automatic Transmission - Slight Jerk On Shifting Gears
Jul 29, 2013
I bought the car about a week ago, whenever the auto tranny shifts gears there is a slight jerk that old honda autos are known for, my wife's car is a 01 celica gt which I bought 2 months ago and went through castrol import ATF 3x drain n refill method suggested by honda for their auto trany, I attempted the same thing in the gts and the shift jerk went down a little but not by much, the gt auto tranny is so smooth I can't even tell whenever it shifts up or down other then high rpm engine noise when it gets there. Is it the engine being much more powerful then the gt to cause that jerk? Should I try a different fluid? Need to know if theirs is smooth across all gears in any rpm range.
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I have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
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When my 2012 Camry's automatic transmission shifts gears in the 20-30 mph range, there is a hesitation during the shifting. I had an independent automatic transmission technician test drive my Camry, and he said my transmission had "light throttle 2-3 slide." He also noted a high frequency clicking sound in the vicinity of the transmission while the engine was running, which he said may be a malfunctioning solenoid.
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I have an automatic Jetta and just hit 130,000 miles. Recently, my car would randomly after I turn it on and put it in drive, the car would jerk forward and make like a popping noise. Then the car drives fine as usual. As if the gears are slipping? Is this a sign that my transmission is going out? What else can cause this? What should I do?
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent, and it has started shifting gears when not traveling at the right speeds to do so.
I'll try to describe it the best I can, When driving I will be going whatever speed limit and all of the sudden it will make a winding noise (like when jumping on highway and pressing hard on gas peddle) and the RPMs will stall. It is like when shifting up, the car drives as normal but then it will shift down and pulls back (making a winding sound)
I am not sure what to do, I was told it seems like it may be the transmission is shot(I had the fluid flushed previously) and that it could cost over $1000 to get it replaced.
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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My 2003 Aviator kind of stutters when in auto between gears. Most prevalent from 3 to D when driving regular. If I shift manually and tach it to 4k there is no stutter/vibration. My engine light is on and pretty sure the catalytic converter need to be changed. All new NKG plugs and associated coils. Throttle body clean, 91+ fuel only. Could this me a tranny starting to fail or computer/senor related? No other codes than the bank-2 O2 sensor....
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
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I just picked up my 2016 4 cylinder Camry 2 weeks ago and have 1000 miles on it. I noticed that sometimes when it shifts it shifts a little bit rough, not sure if I would call it a jerk or shudder but its more pronounced to the point I can feel the shifts. Is this normal for this transmission or is this something I should have checked out?
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I just bought a 1993 Plymouth Voyager recently and the transmission is making a sort of howling sound in low and second gears. It seems to be shifting fine and the sound stops once you get going but I am concerned because the sound is slowly increasing. The fluid looks real old but is stillfairly red. A little bit darker than what it should be with a little bit of brown, but not super bad. I am wondering if maybe someone put in the wrong kind of fluid or maybe the filter is old or clogged, is the pumps system wearing out or bad bearings or what. I know that I need to change the fluid and clean or replace the filter but am I probably looking at something significantly hard to fix or expensive. I can get a free diagnosis at a shop, but I am looking to try and get this fixed myself if possible as I am fairly mechanically inclined and have lots of free time. I am just wondering if changing the fluid and filter will make much of a difference in the life of this transmission. So what is making this sound and is it something not too complicated that can be fixed without a major effort. Is there something fairly easy and cheap to do besides the fluid or do I just drive it.
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I drive a 2002 Accent GL, automatic transmission with only 86,000 on it. For a while now I've been having transmission issues where the car will jerk violently when shifting or starts to rev in certain gear or in park. It also doesn't seem like it knows what gear it wants to be in half the time when I accelerate. Recently, while driving somewhere, it got real worse. It started revving and jumping and redlining and just going crazy while I was driving. I turned the car off and waited a while and turned it back down and it seemed to calm the issue a bit.
But I am afraid to drive right now. It's not the fluid. I've changed it twice in the past two years. Never works. I've seen issues like this on here before. If it IS the transmission needing to be replaced, why so soon with just 86,000 miles on it? And would having the transmission rebuilt be a better choice, cost-wise, but still just as effective?
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
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I have a '99 Toyota Camry automatic transmission with about 184k on it. I bought it used last summer.I noticed that when I speed up, it is sometimes slow to switch gears. I have to ease off the gas before it changes gears. This also happens when I go from reverse to drive. I experience it more noticeably when I haven't been driving the car for long or on a cold morning. I haven't brought it in yet...
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
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Got a Question for my Chevy Malibu 2008 LS (48K miles) , on the automatic transmission when i'm speeding up it's feel like a kick back between gears, it depend on how hard i'm pushing the throttle, some times it feels more when the throttle its moderate not soft or hard (like at 2000 or 2500 rmp), I already made check the transmission level and they said its OK and clean, it could be the clutch? i'm still on extended warranty but before i take the car to the dealer i wish to know if that could be or anything else and if this its something i can live with or better get it repaired soon
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My 2007 V6 failed me several times on very cold mornings. I start the car, wait about 1 minute and then drove it to a stop sign or red light (still cold). When the light turned green, I tried to proceed, but it was as if the car was in neutral. The car would not move. It was only after about 2-3 minutes, when the car started to warm up that I was able to get a gear. After 5-7 minutes, it was as if nothing happened. I have 97K on the car.
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