Just bought a jeep cherokee and it has power door locks. The previous owner stated that after a few days after replacing the fuse it blows. He did this a few times and every time the fuse blows for the power door locks.
View 1 RepliesOn my 2005 Elantra - my radio, dash board clock, dome light, and keyless entry stopped working all at the same time.
Fuse #25 that controls these features is burnt out. As i replace this fuse, it immediately sparks and blows the new fuse.
I have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
My father has a 1995 Jeep grand Cherokee that drains the battery every few days. I draw tested the battery and it is fine. The alternator is charging fine. During a check of the circuits for battery drain, I found that the MUX/T Tow 50 amp fuse is draining the battery at a rate of about 1.5 amps or more. The manual I have does not list the fuse so the following questions come to mind.
1. What circuits are on this fuse?
2. Can the truck be safely operated without this circuit?
3. What further can you do to detect the trouble?
Some answers I came up with after a little more checking.
1. The gage cluster does not work when the fuse is removed, it must be on this fuse. None of the cluster system lights come on when this fuse is out. The cluster illumination lights work ok.
2. All external lights work without the fuse in except stop lights.
3. All other functions are working without the fuse in.
4. No the truck cannot be safely operated. See answer #1and 2 above
5. Found online that a check of any trouble codes might determine touble.
6. No codes were found. But i ddid have the battery cables off before this was checked. He is going to drive it home and back on Sat so I can recheck the codes.
7. Many replys to other posts here on this site refer to the MUX as a "multiplexer"
More questions
1. What the heck is a multiplexer?
2. What relay controls the cluster? Or is this done directly by the ECM.
I do have a good background in electrical and electronic circuits of many types, mostly radio and computer, but also including automotive. So feel free to beat me up if I am overlooking the obvious. I just feell like I am beating my head against the wall here. AND this is what it feels like (thought that was real cute)
I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
View 14 RepliesJust picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 BMW 525i and the fuse for the AC keeps blowing after a few minutes. It's #9 in the fuse box. Before the fuse blows the AC works fine. I can't find any visible problems. Is there a common problem that I can check?
View 1 RepliesHeadlights work, done and door lights also work. Radio, door locks, and window controls do not. Car will no longer start and it doesn't seem to be the battery or starter, but I may be mistaken.
View 2 RepliesI have to manually lock my car doors, and use the door handle unlock sensor to open them. If i use the key FOB or power lock button it blows the fuse. I would like to lock my rear hatch, locking the car the way i do i can never lock the rear.
View 2 RepliesMy 2010 Forester will randomly lock/make the armed confirmation sound after I park, remove my keys and exit the vehicle. I have a head light out (right hand) and have seen that is a common factor in similar problems. Could this be the source of my issue? I have unhooked the battery and it stopped after I hooked it back up. The problem returns days later. I couldn't find ant blown fuses.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
View 8 Repliesgot in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
View 14 RepliesAll of this happened at the same time so has to be related. The a/c system has no power, the brake lights and turn signals don't work, windows wont work, air bag light on. However, the park lights, head lights and hazards work fine. Starts and runs fine. All fuses check out ok. New battery as well.
View 3 RepliesI have a 95 jeep Cherokee and have lost all power to my radio, heater, wipers and turn signals, i have checked all fuses and replace a relay i thought may have been bad, I have yet to find any inline fuses that may cause the issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
View 8 RepliesMy 99 Passat is making a clicking sound from the fuse box, and the alarm light is blinking on and off repeatedly. My remote key no longer locks or unlocks the car. I took out fuse 38 and it stops making sound and stops the blinking, the fuse is not blown. Any clue on what to do. The other fuse for power locks and security look good also.
View 7 RepliesVehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
I drive a 1995 Ford Escort (don't laugh, even though it has 328,000 miles on it). The car is generally very reliable, despite its age. The one thing that repeatedly fails, however, is its clutch cylinders. The factory cylinders lasted about 150,000 miles. The after-market models, ever since, have failed almost like clockwork every 18,000 to 20,000 miles. Either the master or slave has had to be replaced.
The longest they've gone is about 29,000 miles, but then both had to be replaced. No mechanic who has seen this car can explain why it would eat clutch cylinders so regularly. The only clue I have is their proximity to the firewall, and this model Escort was recalled for firewall problems early in its life. Why clutch cylinders would fail so regularly, and what I might be able to do to prevent it?
Out of nowhere my fuse #30 has started blowing - thats the one that supplies the DC outlet points, or cigarette lighter plugs. And no, there are no pennies stuck in the outlets!
I've removed and unplugged all 4 outlet points from the loom, thats the one on the dash, inside the center console, behind the center console and lastly the one in the boot. Still a total dead short.
I've disconnected the 220v AC inverter thats behind the center console, and still measure a dead short.
What else does this fuse/line supply? The only things not working are my lighter plugs, everything else seems fine. Any wiring diagram perhaps - I'm sure there hasn't been much of a change in interior wiring over the years.
2009 2.0 TDi
I have owned my Prius three, not III, for just over 2 years now. The first year I had no issue but now, when charging my iPhone 6, the fuse blows every 2-4 weeks. (My phone is the ONLY thing I ever plug in there). I finally tried replacing the 15amp fuse with a 20amp (I know, that's a no no). But I still blew the 20amp fuse now.
View 16 Replies