Chevrolet - Astro :: 1995 - Stopped Running With No Warning
Sep 18, 2014
My wife drives a 1995 Chevy Astro. It has twice now stopped running with no warning. This happened while driving down the road. The headlights and engine cut out, but the turn signals, power windows, radio display, and such have power. Once it sits for a couple of hours, it starts right up and runs fine for weeks.
Is there an electrical connection of some kind between the fuel pump and the headlights? What might be going wrong?
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we have a 1995 chevy astrovan. Some days it runs just fine and then others it cuts out repeatedly when we slow down or brake. It?s been to the mechanic a million times and he can?t find the problem?
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The air bag warning light is often, but not always, ON in my 1998 Chevy Astro. Unfortunately, it is ON whenever I seem to have a chance to bring it in for state inspection. My mechanic of many years has been unable to determine the cause.
(Note: An earlier problem with the battery draining was taken care of by turning the Dome Light button to the Off position and leaving it there permanently.)
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My 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
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I have a 98 chevy astro thats been acting up alot these days! just a few eeks ago while checking tranny fluid it kinda smelt burnt. but topped it up anyway. mind you alot else is going on too. in the last year the horn has stopped working, the wipers work when they want to. the stereo stopped working. there was this wierd clicking noise that drained my battery, it was coming from this little black square looking thing under the dash on the drivers side, I removed it and it never happened agian. still haven't replaced it yet seeming as it ran fine without it. it wouldn't start when it was raining so considering the other electrical problems I was having I had a wire kit done on it and it didn't work. it turned out to be a cracked coil, which was replaced. just this last week the heater stopped working and now it started doing this this morning.
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My 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
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I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
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I present to you now, for your review, a 1993 Geo Metro, 1.0 L 3 cyl with automatic trans and A/C. It is a Vin Code 6 Engine (5 bolt crank pulley).This car stopped running on the road without warning. When I finally took off the distributor I discovered a spiderweb of copper wire that apparently came from the Camshaft Position Sensor (some call it the ignition pickup and others erroneously call it a "module.") Full Service Manual says it is indeed the Camshaft Position Sensor.
I thought, no problem, must have worn out or maybe something wrong with the signal rotor. I took the distributor out of my other 1993 geo metro and installed it in the ailing one.Cranked it twice, it almost started then just died.When I took off the distributor, would you believe what I found?It happened to the NEW distributor. Copper wire spiderweb!What is causing my distributor to eat these sensors? It cannot be mechanical, it must be electrical.
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2001 chevrolet astro van won't start, I have spark and fuel. compression ok.
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2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
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I've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
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I've recently been having battery drain issues with my 2002 Chevy Astro. After taking it to a local garage I was informed that nothing was wrong with it other than it needing a new battery. They put a new battery in and within two weeks of the van not being used the battery was dead. I did a bit of research online and learned that something may be drawing power while the van is off, and that I could do a fuse test with a multimeter. After performing this test I narrowed down the drain to being related to the following fuse:
19 Instrument Panel Radio: ATC(Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)
The only things that seem to be on this circuit are the radio, cd player and some elements of the instrument panel (e.g. odomoeter). I'd like to fix this problem but I'm sort of stuck as to what I should start testing from here. Today I disconnected the radio and cd player and tried performing the multimeter test again, with the fuse back in place. It appeared that there was still excess power being used with the vehicle off.
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I'm working on a 1999 Chevy Astro 4.3L with an occasional crank, no start condition. On any given day, this vehicle will start right up and run fine, although some days it will start right up and have a part-throttle stutter; not a dead miss, but a stutter when accelerating that sometimes goes away. When it has the stutter, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the stutter to go away completely. I replaced the MAP sensor, but nothing changed. Today, it's back to its crank, no start attitude problem. The basics check out fine: good, strong spark at the wires, 60-65 psi of fuel pressure, and I even pulled the plenum to verify fuel is firing from the injectors. Everything seems to be happening as it should except that it will not start and run. I even tried doing the Passlock relearn procedure on it, despite spark and fuel happening when it should, one or both of which would normally be eliminated by the security system, but to no avail. What could possibly cause this here-today-gone-tomorrow no-start condition?
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I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
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My 1999 Astro van recently started making LOUD rattling noises under the hood. No previous problems, ran great up till pulling into my driveway. It does have 160,000 miles on it, but has always been excellently maintained. Towed it to dealership where they told me that "by the sound of it" it would need a new engine. This van is fully loaded, power everything, leather interior, paint job is great, everything works. Breaks my heart that I may have to junk it. So, the big question is, junk it or get a new motor?
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I just had a rebuilt engine put in my 1999 Chevy Astro. However, when I got it back the lighter and auxiliary lighters don't work. I checked the fuses under the driver's side dash and the one for the lighter looked good. I change it anyhow, and it still doesn't work. Anything else I should check? I am planning a long trip and would like to use my radar detector.
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I have a 1997 Astro van and recently I shut the back doors (two door version) and now they will not open/unlock. I tried the power locks as well as the key. I read where you can take off the speaker cover in the door and reach thru and unlock/release from there. That did not work either. Not sure WHY Chevy decided not to put interior release handles. Any trick to opening the doors so I can see what the problem is?
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I have a 2000 Chevy Astro van, and I have this problem that no one seems to be able to figure out, let alone fix. Occasionally the car with have all the lights inside and outside the car start to "pulse". The needle on the voltmeter will be noted to surge from the average just above 14 mid point on the dial on the meter face to over this in a pulsing motion, in time to the light pulsing. I have replaced the distributor cap, coil wire, and the car has been with the mechanic numerous times. His diagnostic equipment does not pinpoint the cause of this problem. What to try next?
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My 89 Astro van is leaking red fluid when parked uphill (slightly) that drips from the u-joint closest to the transmission and only from the part that is in the yoke that goes into the transmission. I dropped the drive shaft thinking wrongly that there would be a bad seal where i thought the yoke went into i thought a second piece, but it is all one piece with a collar. When parked in the garage nice and level it did not seem to leak.
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I have a 2001 chevy Astro 2 wd. After rebuilding the motor it cranks has a spark and is getting fuel but won't start. Has a new starter new battery new coil crankshaft position sensor new distributor, cap and rotor plugs and wires but does not start...
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99 Chevy Astro with 93000+ miles. Only recent problem (one week ago) was left lights on for 4hrs on a new battery and almost completely drained battery, then, vehicle cranked without a jump. This AM started van to go to work and there was a definite "whirring noise" from under the hood. Popped the hood and sounded like coming from the brake master cylinder area vs. AC compressor area-hard to tell though. AC has not worked for 2 yrs. Noise increased in proportion to revving of engine. Likewise, noise continued while driving, although seemed to not be as loud when engine warmed up. Temp outside 34. Fluid levels OK. Where the noise is coming from? Also not sure if related or a concern: brake pedal has a slight "stick" to it when initially pressing the pedal, for ~ last 6 mths. give or take Brakes seem to work fine.
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