Chevrolet - Blazer :: Heater Control Only Work For Defrost And Face-vent Operation
Feb 17, 2015
2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
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There is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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1998 tahoe LT .. My truck selector switch has been acting up. when i turn the switch from defrost to AC mode it takes time before it moves the doors to the correct position. does something need lubed or do i have something that needs (or will need) replaced?
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The cruise control on my 2000 Blazer LS 4X4 is not working. I just changed the multi-function switch and still nothing. I looked at the throttle cables and they seem to be fine. All the fuses are good as well.
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I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 240000 miles on the clock. Words cannot describe how impressed I am by this car. However, yesterday I noticed that the selector switch where one chooses to direct the air output has failed me. It seems to be stuck in the windshield defrost setting, unable to redirect the airflow to anywhere else. I am however still able to control the temperature as well as A/C settings. The switch felt strangely 'limp' almost as though it is no longer connected to whatever engineering or witchcraft it is attached to behind the control panel. What are your thoughts on this? Could it be as simple as some mechanical linkage that has snapped off? Just to recap: blower motor, heat and A/C are not affected by this.
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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My 2001 Accent heater only blows air to your face no matter what position the knob is in.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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Honda Accord Special Edition - 72,000 mi.,4 cyl. auto - When I turn the control knob on to use fan or is it called the blower for A/C or heater nothing comes on. When I turn the control knob on with the cold motor not running and A/C button engaged (green light on) I hear the two fans under the hood come on for about 10 seconds and then shut off. Not sure if that is normal or it indicates something. I checked some of the fuses under the hood and under the dash. Could not find any that were bad.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado, and recently it has been running hotter than usual (I dont know the exact numbers, but it usually runs at the halfway mark, and is now at the 3/4 mark) and the heater doesn't work... as long as I'm going UNDER about 60 mph. When I get on the freeway, the water temp goes back down to the 1/2 mark, and the heater comes on! Occasionally when I'm going around 30 or even stopped the water temp gets even hotter, and it tells me that the engine coolant is hot. I've tried adding more coolant... maybe I have a leak? I also know that I need new AC/Serpentine belts, could it have something to do w that?
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I am not sure if they are related or if they happened at the same time but my wife said her heater/ac fan wasn't working. So I figured it was a fuse, but after visually checking all the fuses and I mean all, none appear to be blown. After checking all the fuses I turned the car on, only to find out I put a couple fuses in the wrong locations and re-installed according to the diagram on the back of the cover. Turned car back on and heater fan as expected did not turn on. Then I noticed the Trac light on, not blinking or beeping just "on". After looking on the forums and web this means that it is turned off. If it is just off how do you turn it back on?
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I have a 98 chevy astro thats been acting up alot these days! just a few eeks ago while checking tranny fluid it kinda smelt burnt. but topped it up anyway. mind you alot else is going on too. in the last year the horn has stopped working, the wipers work when they want to. the stereo stopped working. there was this wierd clicking noise that drained my battery, it was coming from this little black square looking thing under the dash on the drivers side, I removed it and it never happened agian. still haven't replaced it yet seeming as it ran fine without it. it wouldn't start when it was raining so considering the other electrical problems I was having I had a wire kit done on it and it didn't work. it turned out to be a cracked coil, which was replaced. just this last week the heater stopped working and now it started doing this this morning.
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Went to use my windshield defrost this morning on my way to work. everything went fine. Leaving work I selected the face vents with my AC on and it only blows hard from the windshield vent even though its already been depressed.
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Tried reset by holding while it went back, up, then down, then forward, still one touch operation does not work.
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I have a 2006 Chevrolet Equinox. The issue is that during the winter the cruise control works perfectly. During the summer it doesn't work at all. During the Spring and Fall it is intermittent. It's not a big issue but, my wife and I are moving to England soon and she wants me to take it to a mechanic before we leave. However, I think I can fix this myself but, have nowhere to start.
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My 06 F250 crew with the 6.0 starting blowing the cold AC out the defrost vent and will not switch to the dash vents. It's goning to hit 108 today and stay around 105 for the rest of the week.
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I am trying to troubleshoot why my heater blower, cruise control and info center above my rear-view mirror has stopped working. I am trying to confirm power to an orange wire next to the driver-side fuse box. I have confirmed no power at the fuses. I am hoping the problem is the wire box below the fuse box and not the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram and the power feed to these three fuses is via an Orange wire. There are two Orange wires in the box, I am trying to determine which one feeds the fuses for these three devices. I have a picture of the fuse box.
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I have a 2001 Montana. Recently I have no heat/air movement via the defrost vent. All other setting work along with fan. Plenty of heat when set on floor or dash vent. Just doesn't work with the defrost setting in either alone or with the floor.
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I have to once and for all try to figure out what the heck is up with the AC and the defrost/vent switching back and forth. I have searched and searched and posted a few months back as well. But now that it's summer and 100 degrees out I've had a chance to test some more.
1 - I replaced both hoses going to the hubs up front.
2 - I am not sure how to test vacuum, but I did cap the hoses that lead to the hubs and still had the fluctuating back and forth
Looking for detail how to test for vacuum leak with a gauge directions ? What number is supposed to hold on the gauge and for how long etc...?
3 - It used to be that when I got to a high speed or RPM it would shift to defrost, but now I've noticed that once on the freeway going to work for instance and doing a constant 55-65 ( sub 2k rpm ) for about 20-25 minutes the vents hold fine. When I start to stop and go with higher RPM's it starts to 'break down' again. Could it be that there is a vacuum canister or pump ? I don't know ?? The diesels have a vac pump - do the V10's ? What can I check if there is no vacuum leak - what's next ?
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I've got a couple different problems. The first one is that no matter what setting I have it on, air only blows out of the defrost vent.. Why this is happening? or is there already a thread about this? i saw a thread for this same problem, but it was for 2nd gen explorers.
The second problem I have is that there always seems to be air blowing from some where on the passenger side, unless i am accelerating. I can't seem to find where it is coming from but it makes a really annoying noise.
It is the 4.6L, AWD. not sure if that matters or not though.
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is there an way to remove the defrost vent covers? i think my license slid down the front of the defrost covers. its probably somewhere down under the dash. I would like to start removing the covers up top before I yank the dash. I am 1400 miles from home so I cant run and get a replacement.
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