I have a 2005 Chevy Equinox with 73K miles. When I first start it up morning the car runs rough for about a minute or two and then smooths out. I took it to a mechanic who said there was oil on one of the plugs and to get rid of the car. I tried another mechanic on Craigslist and he replaced the upper plenum gaskets. It ran better for about a day or two and now the problem has resurfaced.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Equinox with about 52000 miles on it. At about 48,000 I took it in for the 50G maintenance. The car ran with a fluttery sound that I did not really notice until it was brought to my attention. Recently the car began running rough and stalling when idling. there were no warning or indicator lights lit. I had OnStar run a remote diagnostic and they said there were no codes. The day after the diagnostic the check engine light went on , while at the same tie the rough idle and stalling went away.
I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
How to change the transmission oil and filter on a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox?
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 RepliesMy wife has a 2005 Equinox and we discovered an oil residue in the coolant pressure tank. I wanted to diagnose the problem myself and hopefully rule out a blown head gasket. I flushed the system and replaced the hoses that had began to break down. I dove the car for a while and let it sit overnight. Sure enough the oil came back. This time it was blackish put couldn't really tell. The 3400 engine in the Equinox has no pressure on the top of the engine while running so transmission cooler must be the culprit. I ordered a new radiator and the broke one sat in the shop over the weekend and while it was there it drained. The milky fluid leaked out and separated from the coolant. I then knew it was trans fluid because it was red after separating. Changed the radiator and the problem is fixed. One thing I did learn is head gasket doesn't mean engine killer.
View 6 RepliesI read a similar post but no resolution. My '05 Equinox starts fine most of the time, but when I make a quick stop before its fully warmed up I have to slightly depress the accelerator to get it to start. Now I know with fuel injection this should't be happening but its been the case almost since the day I bought it. GM changed out the software in the computer and that seemed to work for a while, at least long enough for the warranty to end. It doesn't bother me but my wife wants the car now. What's up?
View 1 RepliesMy mechanic tells me that the hold up or carrier bearings on the drive shaft of my 2005 Equinox need to be replaced. He says that about half the time this cannot be accomplished and that I might have to replace the entire drive shaft. From the research I have done, it seems that a press (?) and blow torches are needed to replace the bearings. I can't afford the new drive shaft, but I could afford to replace the bearings if I could find someone who was sure they could accomplish this.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Equinox that has developed an odd issue. For about a month, after a good rain, I have a puddle of water in the floor carpet of the front passenger side - while parked. It develops from the center of the car to about the middle of the floor below the seat. So since that is the case I don't think the side window is leaking but I have looked for signs of water coming in. Nothing. The windshield was replaced about 5 years ago but again, no signs that water is coming in from there either. It can't be from the bottom of the car, right? I mean it happens while it is parked, so that doesn't make sense.
View 6 Replies1996 s-10 runs very rough at start-up .. smooths out after it warms up and runs really great. Is it just the plugs and wires or something else??
View 1 RepliesI've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
My pickup runs smooth 95% of the time. It runs rough at red lights and when pulling away from stops. It seems to happen more when the A/C is on.
View 3 Replies2000 Toyota Camry le v6 .... When I first start my car it runs rough after about 5 to 10 minutes it runs fine. I have no check engine light on. I used sea foam and the problem went away for a couple weeks then it came back. I have about 30k on my spark plugs.
View 10 RepliesMy V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Town Car with 40 K Miles.
Engine runs rough at most slow rpm's .
No codes and I change : new sparks plugs / new Fuel Filter / new air filter /
New oil / new ATF / good MPG , everything good but runs to rough.
Have an 94 LTC and this car runs better.
The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
View 5 RepliesI recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
I used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
View 16 RepliesThis has been an ongoing issue for about a month. When I start the engine after it has been sitting and is cold it runs ruff for about a minute then smooths out and runs fine. I pulled a P0304 code (cyl.4 missfire) but I do not get a CEL.
I checked the plugs and they were ok but I changed them and the wires anyway as it just turned 50k and the plugs were original. I could live with a little cold ruff idle but the code throwing bothers me. The truck is a 2000 xlt 4x with auto trans. and 4.0 engine. This is my second 4.0 ranger but I have only had it for about 6 months.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl. and have a misfire problem with the 1st cylinder. I've had it pressure checked and there isn't a problem with the cylinder, such as a ring or warping problem. I've replaced the wires, both boots, both ignition coils and the plugs twice. I was told I need to replace the ignition coil again but I wonder if there is something that is making the coil go bad. I've also replace the throttle position sensor and both O2 sensors. I had the front catalytic converter replaced because it was bogging down and very slow. It still runs rough and the check engine light is on. I was told also that I need to replace the engine speed sensor. I bought the car in Oct. of 2004 and only has 68000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI have had my 06 for 4 months now. I started to get a cold running problem now that the temperature is falling below 40. When I start it in the morning I wait till the idle comes down before driving. I start driving and it runs rough as if it had a choke stuck closed. I spoke with the dealer and he told me to run lower octane in the winter. That has not worked.
View 7 RepliesI have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.