Chevrolet - Malibu :: 2000 - Burning Oil On All The Cylinders
May 6, 2012
I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu LS 3.1 V6, the car is burning oil, and I want to know your opinion.
The car had thermostat problems and was overheated, after I changed the thermostat the engine started smoking and every body told me it was the head gaskets, but the car is not burning coolant, is actually burning oil.
When I start the car, first is the steam coming up from the tail pipe, then when the car is warm, the oil smoke stars to come out from the tail pipe.
I checked the spark plugs and all six showed a lot of oil on them, so my question is, is this because the piston rings or the engine is getting oil from somwhere else beside the piston rings. There is times when is not smoke at all, and then again a lot of smoke.
In the past I saw cars burning oil from probably one or two piston chambers, but no from all of them at the same time, and on this one when I checked, all the spark plugs were wet in oil.
I was researching about this particular engine, and looks like have some issues with the head gaskets due to overheating and the fact of the heads being made from aluminum. What can I check before taking the engine apart.
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The whistling sound is fairly straightforward but there are little details that are weird.
I noticed maybe 1 or 2 weeks ago that the car would make a whistling sound, not a high pitched one but a fairly middle-high sort of tone. It would make this sound when I put the car and drive and maybe just start to gas it but NOT all of the time. By the time I am at a regular speed it has gone.
But sometimes when I slow down the sound will return and go away when the car has come to a complete stop. But this is not a constant pattern. It is on and off. Only recently could I say it has become more frequent but even then I hesitate.
Also the sound seems to definitely be coming from under the hood possibly from the back of the car but I think front may be more likely.
I read briefly on a few car/car repair forums that it could be anything from an AC compressor going out, a vacuum leak, fan belt, bad water pump, among others. I tried turning the AC on, which I have kept off for pretty much the entirety of the Summer and I heard the sound only once when I resumed driving. BUT, when I revved, the engine seemed noticeably louder; almost like it was laboring though the car drove just fine.
One other thing. Before it sounded as if the origin of the whistle was coming from the passenger side of the car. Just as of today it sounded as though it originated from the driver's side. So I'm really confused now. The car seems to drive just fine and the engine the day before sounded good if not great. I'm hoping it is nothing related to the engine.
*Few Notes:The oil was changed in June. The tires were replaced recently. Though the sound started before this. I was however driving on a really bad passenger side tire for a while.There is a short on the panel that contains the left turn signal. The bad bulb was changed and I plan to find a new panel as soon as Monday.
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I have a 2000 chevy malibu that has not had a/c the past 2 summers. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem could be. When I start the car and then turn on the a/c by pressing the button in the car nothing seems to happen.
When I went to look at the compressor motor I could see that the clutch is not engage and the middle of the compressor is not turning. What to check without taking to a mechanic??
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I just went into my garage and noticed pieces of my rear coil spring on the ground. 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. Question is, do I have to replace both rear coil springs? They seem to sell them in pairs.
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I've got a Chevy Malibu with roughly 120K miles on it. It runs relatively well - when it starts - which is why I'm here, obviously. The battery is brand new with all the connections seeming to be great, so I doubt it's an electrical issue in that regard.
Furthermore, in cases where the car doesn't start, almost always it's on an incline where the gas tank is lower than the rest of the vehicle.
When it's either level or higher than the rest, it seems to start up fine, which has led me to wonder if it's something to do with the fuel intake (note that the car doesn't stall at all - it simply won't start in the adverse conditions I said here).
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2000 f450, truck has been running great and then all of a sudden starts running really rough. I check the oil and its dry! it was 9 quarts low! i checked the oil 2 weeks prior as i often do. i change the oil every 4500 miles and now this. i had driver side injectors done about 5 months ago. I take it to my mechanic and he said he thinks it has low compression on 2 cylinders but didn't do a compression check( not sure how he knows). He told me to run it until it pukes , keep putting oil in it with lucas oil additive. Then i will have to have the engine rebuilt. The truck only has 175000 miles! i thought these things were supposed to run forever! Does this seem right to you guys? I bought the truck a year and a half ago and have always kept up with it. has dp tuner but everything else is stock. Smoke comes out of the oil fill tube slowly but doesn't send puffs like a locomotive. mechanic said the turbo is fine.
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I have an '02 malibu that got hot and now won't start I have pulled the plugs and there isn't any water in the cyliders. And none in the oil, what to check next?
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When I take my car in to have an oil change/checkup the garage tells me my wheels need to be balanced. However I do not have any indication that I need wheel balancing. The tires do not show unusual wear, there is no shaking while driving in the city, nor when on an expressway driving from 40 to 70 MPH. Is it possible I really need to balance the wheels?
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I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu LS.
The bulb for the parking light on the right headlight doesn't come on, it only comes on when the turning signal is activated. I'm not sure if it's the bulb or the fuse? If it's the fuse, do I need to buy electrical gloves and disconnect the battery before I "operate".
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
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2011 chevy malibu. 3 days ago on my way to work my car would hit about 2500 rpms and drop then go back 2500 and drop continously. I stopped turned it off and it ran fine. now I've noticed when taking off from a stop it's a jerking/quick (only once not multiple times) kind of go. It used to be very smooth. occasionally the rpm problem will return but less severe.
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Wanting to no what the inlet and outlet ports for heater hoses on a chevy 350. I have a air gap intake with the the four water hoses 2 in the front and to in the back and of course the one on the water pump.
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Recently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
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My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
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The ABS light in my wife's car goes on and off intermittently with no apparent. The car has about 47,000 miles on it. Bad connection, computer going haywire, loose or corroded wiring?
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I heard some noise which seems coming from the brakes. But the noise is always there even when I do not apply the brakes. I think if the noise relates to the brakes or the pads, there should be no noise until I apply the brakes, am I right? My car: Chevy Malibu, 1999. The brake light is not on.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu 3.1L Automatic that I've replaced the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets on three times in 6 years. The most recent time I think was caused by an overheating problem originally. A few weeks ago it overheated one time and boiled the coolant, but I did not let it redline on the temp-gauge. Still, the next day I found distinct evidence of coolant in the oil. After replacing the full gasket set and thermostat for good measure, I'm still getting an overheating problem. My assumption was that the coolant leaked into the oil and then when the car overheated I put only water in it temporarily which boiled somehow and probably caused more damage. This happened the first time I had a gasket problem years ago.
I'm not actually losing antifreeze that I can tell, so I know it's not the common intake manifold problem. I've checked all the hoses to make sure they're all properly secure as well and I can identify no dampness or evidence of pooling. I generally run the heat to identify if my cooling system is working correctly or is at least somewhat functioning. It never does upon start-up, but I've found that if I rev the engine to above 4,000rpms for a sustained period of time (5-10 seconds) I can achieve what seems to be flow and the heater will kick on. The temp gauge will also level out and seem to run properly. This works about 95% of the time, but I've only tested it on short drives to work and back (maybe 15 - 20 miles).
I've primed the hoses and also flushed any air from the system on multiple occasions, so I've tried to cover all my basis. One thing that I have noticed is that after revving it and getting it to function so I can at least get to my destination, the heater will run VERY hot. Like it will burn your hand if you hold it in front of the vent for more than a minute or two. Unfortunately, when it overheated the first time I just immediately replaced the gaskets because this was the solution the past two times, which held for about 2 years each, so I don't know if this new, weird, problem is my doing or is something that caused the original problem.
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Just replaced intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets - Put car back together and now it will 'start' but kills almost right away and the engine sounds like it is missing real bad - checked plug hook up of course. Was told we should not have moved the fuel rail (which we had). I think it sounds like the timing chain is off, but we did not touch that (according to my friend who did most the work).
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I have an 01 mailibu that keeps overheating. I have replaced the water pump (twice) and had the thermostat replaced. The water pump and thermostat were replaced about a month ago. Last night while driving, i noticed the temp getting higher, so I turned on the heat, and instead of hot air, it was ice cold. What it could be?
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu that likes to refuse to start every couple of days or so, throughout the day, but never the first start of the day. It's not the fuel pump and it's getting a spark. It happens in all temperatures. Three different mechanics have not figured out what the problem is. From what I've read online, I suspect an issue with the theft deterrent module or something like that it's called.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu - periodically, they turns signals decide not to work. I don't know that one thing in particular causes them not to work. What could be the issue and is this something I can fix easily (I'm a novice), cheaply and quickly myself?
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