Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1993 - Showing Service Engine Light Sporadically
Jul 12, 2014
A few weeks ago, my 1993 S-10 began showing the service engine light sporadically over a couple of weeks. Then, while I was stopped and idling at a red light, the engine revved up really high suddenly for no reason. A few days later, as the automatic shifted from 2nd to 3rd it jerked a little, as if I'd tapped the brakes or something.Around the time all this was going on, I heard something on Car Talk about the radiator and transmission being linked somehow. I checked my radiator, and sure enough the coolant was very cloudy and kinda sandy. I flushed the coolant and refilled and all the weird little transmission quirks seemed to vanish after that. Until yesterday, when the symptoms started appearing again.
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my wife's 05 Tahoe started acting up by showing "service 4wd" on the way to church - then on the way to taking the kids to school this morning it showed "stability sys disabled." I have read some other forms and they are all over the place on what to do or where to start. what they are saying is true --- the car acts sluggish and seemed like it switched into 4wd. Where to start?? a sensor ?? some said the encoder motor?? even the 4wd on the dash being replaced??
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I have a 1992 Chevy S10 with 84,000K on it. It drives fine but when I get on the interstate and am driving 65mph for about 5-10 minutes the 'service engine soon' light comes on sometimes it takes longer. It only does it when I'm driving on the interstate and not if I'm just driving around town. It also doesnt turn on all the time but when it does come on it stays on until I turn the engine off.
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I've been having my 'service engine soon' light turn on in my 1999 Chevy Blazer. It has an automatic transmission and 60,000 miles. I first disconnected the battery to turn off the light and to see if it would turn on again. It turned on again so I took it to AutoZone for an obd2 scan and got codes P0300 and P0442. I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug cables and the light turned off, but then turned back on after a week. I'm starting to think the problem is something simple like the gas cap.
The rubber film around the cap has a few tears, but are the tears significant enough to cause the light to turn on?
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
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Driving while in 4x4 HI up a hill the truck started to slip. I stopped, shifted to neutral, and engaged 4x4 Low. I shifted back to drive and started moving up the hill. The engine started to lose power and the "Service Engine Soon" light began to blink. I put the truck in park. As I let it run a little bit, the engine started to shake as if something was very imbalanced. I went to check under the hood, and confirmed that it was shaking quite noticeably. There was no grinding or clattering of any kind though.
I turned the truck off for a bit, and then restarted. There was no light or shaking upon starting up; but as soon as I put it in gear and started driving I could tell it was losing power, the light came back on, and the shaking ensued. This occurred in 2wd, and both 4wd lo and hi. I parked it at a neighbors place and there it sits for now.
I plan to try and get the codes read. My other vehicles can't make it through the snow we have right now, but it is suppose to get warm later today and might melt enough for me to get one out. I also live out in the country, so the nearest auto parts place is about 20 miles. Same with a dealership service shop. I'm hoping I can buy and return a code reader from an auto parts store to assess if this is something I can diagnose myself or not.
It is the 6.0l gas engine with the 4sp automatic transmission. The truck also has about 107,000 miles.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Equinox with a little over 50,000 miles. About a year ago the key began sporadically getting stuck in the AUX position when I attempt to turn the engine off (no problems when starting engine). The dealer installed a new ignition cylinder (which cost me $1,000) but the problem continues. When the key sticks I re-start, re-shift and re-brake and I can remove the key and turn off the engine on the first or second try. The dealer suggested that I take my foot off the brake when I remove the key but I usually have to FLOOR the brake to remove the key.
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Over the past 3 years or so, my 1993 Honda Civic began not starting at very random times. Everything would appear to be working but the engine wouldn't fire up, until after a few tries or minutes. I got the fuel pump relay replaced last March and that worked for a bit but then my car acted up again in June and an electrical connector to the fuel pump was replaced. My car had been starting every time since, until last week. This is the worst it has ever been; my engine took about 3 hours (re-trying it here and there) to decide to turn over and start on its own, worked great for 3 days and then again just would not start. On a whim, I jumped it that time and it worked. This seems strange to me because all the electricity in the car was working when it wouldn't start, and my battery checked out fine when it was tested recently.
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My air bag service light just came on. I have a Chevy Silverado 2005 with 195,000 miles. Any clues?
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The MFD did the 500 mile service countdown and now just says service now, to get this cleared do I need someone with a Vag-Com to clear it? is there some trick or will it go away automatically.
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2004 chevy cavalier ... when i first start up the car & put it into the drive, it acts like it's going to stall and the low traction light comes on. if i go slow enough, the light will go out, if not both the ABS and NO TRAC and the SERVICE lights will come on. i took it to a repair shop a year ago and they jiggled the wires by the left front wheel and said they'd have to look into it more since I was there for them to just check out the brakes (they were fine). after they jiggled the wires, the problem didn't happen for another couple of months. today i took it to a chevy dealer & they said i needed to replace the left front speed sensor & harness. I just got my oil changed on the way home, the usual warning lights never came on when they would doing the usual starting up and backing out of parking spots. do you think that just a wire is loose and every time i have them look at it, it reconnects?
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So for the last few months, I've had my check engine light on my 111,000 mile 2005 Prius going off sporadically. Everyone tells me it's the gas cap, but I've been putting off replacing it because I want to make sure I get something compatible.
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I have a 2008 Malibu LS and the service traction light comes on randomly, I suspect a sensor. The car operates fine and this light has been coming on for several months. My question is can I just ignore? Another question is that I had new tires put on and they said I needed new control arms and bushings. I'm always suspicious when I go in for one thing and told I need something else. What would be the symptoms that I need to replace these parts?
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I got a code reading of P1404 on a 2000 Impala from the parts store, but they can't say for sure what it means. What this would be? The service vehicle soon light comes on.
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MY 06 Avalon has acquired a check engine light that goes on and off sporadically..mechanic states it was a misfire cleared the codes but now it has come back and then turned itself off only to come back again. Car 80k miles..needs tuneup ?
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Our 2007 Chevy Tahoe 4 X 4 recently displayed a "Service Four Wheel Drive" panel light a couple of days ago (upon ignition on a sunny, dry day). The light had been steady which, when we read the owners manual, indicates a problem but no immediate service required. One of the possible solutions was to remove and close the gas cap in case it had been incorrectly closed during the last gas-up. That did not work. Yesterday, during a snow storm, I tried using the 4WD. The dial would move to the different settings, but no 4WD activated and no light illuminated indicating which gear it was in (2WD, Auto, 4H, 4L). We checked the fuse for the 4WD but it is OK.
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A little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
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I checked the cables, no corrosion and tight as a drum. I connected an OBD II computer to the plug under the dashboard and the computer replied that there were no trouble codes present. Is OBDII the proper code reader? none of these lights were on before I replaced the battery. now I have constant ABS, flashing Service ride control, change engine oil. The battery has not gone dead as of yet but the ampmeter is charging at about 16.5-17 volts. I disconnected the pos terminal while the vehicle was running and it continued to run even with the lights on.
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2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
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I have a 1999 F-150 w/ 4.2 V6. and auto trans, truck has 219,000 miles on chassis but only 25,000 on engine and 10,000 on trans. I've been getting obd codes p0705 and p0715. I replaced the position sensor on outside of trans. but I continue to get the codes off and on again. I noticed that the O/D "OFF" light on the shift selector blinks simultaneously when the "service engine soon" light comes on. I've noticed that there is no low gear unless I have it in D from a dead stop, and not even when downshifting manually.
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