Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2000 - Noise And Vibration During Driving At Speeds Of 70 Mpg
Oct 4, 2013
I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
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Oct 4, 2013
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Suburban :: 2000 - Vibration Noticeable At About 20 MPH / Audible Clicking Sound At Slow Speeds
I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
Suburban :: 2000 - Running Into Vibration At Highway Speeds Along With A Clicking Sound At Idle Speed
I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2002 - Scraping Noise While Driving
OK so - I had the rear axle bearings replaced, but I'm still hearing a rotational scraping noise while moving (whether gas is applied or not, or whether braking is applied). Gets slightly louder the faster I go. But when I turn, the noise goes away. It's hard to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. My wife swears it's in the front; to me it sounds like it's in the middle (so it would be being transmitted from the source).
I took it back to our mechanic, but he can't hear it very well - he admits that his hearing is not what it used to be (he's in his 70s). Only thing he hears is "gear noise in the rear"... meaning he'd have to replace the differential in the back which would be prohibitively expensive and not worth it. He said I should come back in a couple weeks when his younger employee will be back so he can listen for it.
Chevrolet - Suburban :: Vibration After New Serpentine Belt Tensioner Installed
I installed a new serpentine belt tensioner into my 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500. It vibrated as much as the old one did, so I assumed that a bit of vibration is normal and forgot about it. Well, after recently looking at some instructional videos, I am now under the impression that any vibration in the tensioner is bad. Here is what is going on -- [UrL] .... Is it OK or should I get another new tensioner?
View 4 RepliesSuburban :: EGR Code After Driving At Sustained Speeds Above Forty Mph
94 GMC 5.7 K1500 .... I have been getting an EGR code after driving at sustained speeds above forty mph. The code gets stored for say less than thirty starts then disappears until I hit the highway again. I took the EGR valve off, cleaned it with carb cleaner (really soaked it) until all the black crud stopped coming out, replaced the gasket and reinstalled it. Back on the highway and the CEL is on again (goes out after a few minutes/miles) and the code is back. I went to the auto parts store and got them to show me a replacement valve. When I shook it there was a slight rattle (which I assume is the diaphragm). On the other hand mine offered no rattle sound after cleaning so I'm wondering if the valve is pooched. Anyway my question: whether the problem is
a) the valve,
b) the solenoid or
c) dirty EGR passage in the manifold?
Depending upon the cost of the diagnostic (ie if it exceeds the valve) I'm probably going to just go ahead and replace it. I don't need a smog test until next Spring.
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1997 Diesel Dies While Driving Then Starts Right Back Up
My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 2007 - Misfire After Working On Engine / SES Light Flashing While Driving
I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2001 - Engine Severely Lacking In Torque For The First Minute Or So Of Driving
I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Transmission Started To Slip / Slowly Idle Down While Driving
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
View 6 RepliesChevrolet - Trailblazer :: 2008 - Vibration At High Speeds Above 60 Mph
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
View 1 RepliesChevy - Suburban :: 2002 - Noise And Vibration Between 65 To 70mph
I have a 2002 chevy suburban 4wd with 156000 miles.. I had tires replaced last week due to them being chopped. They caused a low humming noise between 65-70mph. That was coming from the front.Below or above this speed the sound was not noticeable. I had new Coper AT-3 tires replace all around and balanced 5 days ago. The noise has become worse and starts at 61 mph and gets louder up to 70 an with a slight vibration . I have not gone above that speed to se if the noise goes away as I feel a bit uncomfortable going any faster with this issue . The tires were balanced so was wondering if I have bad tires or if the new tires being all terrain are causing more strain on what could be a bearing. The wheel bearings are fine and the rear bearings and pinion bearing were replaced two months ago . I know all terrains will make noise but not to this extent .
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - Malibu :: 2009 - Violent Vibration When Braking At High Speeds
I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu that gives through rotors every 6 months. I have replaced them 3 times now in 102,000 miles and had them turned multiple times. What happens is about 6,000 miles after I put new rotors on they warp and I get a violent vibration when braking at high speeds. I have been to 3 different dealerships and none of them can figure out why they continue to warp.
View 12 RepliesSuburban :: 1999 - RPMs Shoot Up To 2000 Then Back Down To 1500 While Driving
So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 2002 - Faint Humming Noise Coming From The Rear
I have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: Odd Brake Related Noise Like Spring Tension Being Released
Vehicle is a 94 Suburban. The front brakes were done approximately 14K miles ago. Rear about 10K miles ago. Ever since the front brake job (new rotors, pads) there has been a sound, sort of like spring tension being released whenever I (quickly) release the brake pedal. I think I notice it now more than ever because I don't have working ac and the windows are usually down. The thing is, if I slowly release the pedal I hear nothing. When it does happen it is definitely coming from the front and is more predominant (I think) on the right side. So far I have yet to hear this sound coming from any other vehicle stopped beside me in traffic so something must be out of whack.
I mentioned this to the mechanic who did the brakes (only shortly thereafter) and he checked it out and said nothing was amiss. Recently I had new tires installed so I asked the (different) mechanic to check the brakes again (front and rear). Apart from cleaning out the drums and a minor adjustment on the rear they said everything was good. Now I've never had any issues with stopping and I've had a few hard braking episodes without incident but this snapping noise for want of a better description is driving me nuts. One final observation: I cannot get the 'sound' to occur when I am sitting in Park and depress and then quickly release the brake pedal.
Prius (Gen 2) :: Shutter / Vibration At Low Speeds When On Electric Driving
Vibration/shuttering feeling when on electric driving at low speeds 5mph or less or when letting car pull itself under creep in reverse/forward gears. it is almost like your driving over a rumble strip at low speed with no unusual sounds or noises. just feels a little jerky. it has been doing this since i got the car a year ago and no codes are thrown. trans fluid was changed about 5k miles ago at 87k and there was no unusual coloring, or metal in the fluid or on the plug. it was darker red but not burnt or foul smelling by any means. could this be a loose cv joint or drive shaft?
View 4 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Vibration At High Speeds On The Highway
Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 1999 - Ticking Noise Like A Turn Signal Continues Until Apply The Brakes
My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
View 4 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: Squeal / Groan / Clicking Noise Coming From Right Front Of Engine When Accelerating
2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
View 1 RepliesSilverado :: 2000 / 5.3L Engine - Vibration At Highway Speeds Between 40 And 65mph
I recently got a used 2000 silverado 1500 ext. cab with a short bed. Has a 5.3L engine. I noticed it has vibrations at highway speeds. I thought it was the crappy tires on it so I had all the tires replaced and balanced. Now it has all new tires and does the same thing. Runs really smooth all the way up to 40mph and then the vibrations begins. It is mostly felt in the steering/dash and pedals. A little more pronounced on accel. but vibrates if your on the gas on not.
Once your reach 65mph, the vibrations stop. I have also noticed that asphalt makes it vibrates more. When I go over concrete overpasses in the problem area of 40 to 65mph it smooths out. I took a look under the truck and saw nothing obvious. U joints feel tight and no play, seen it had weights which appeared welded onto the one piece drive shaft.