Corolla :: 1993 1.8L Cold Start - Dies If Let Off Of Throttle During Warm Up Period
Nov 14, 2011
I have a 1993 corolla that runs fine once warm. The problem is a cold idle problem. When starting it cold, it dies unless you feather the throttle. I can keep it running by feathering the throttle until it warms up. Once warm it runs fine. If I let off of the throttle at all during the warmup period, it dies instantly. How does the choke work on these vehicles? Could it be a IACV problem? Anything else it could be?
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Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
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So the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn't die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It's a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
I can't really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I'm no good at diagnosing car problems.
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every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
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Recently purchased my first Prius, it's the v wagon.
When accelerating from a stopped position in eco mode there's a relatively severe drivetrain shutter/vibration for a a short period of time until I back off the throttle, almost feels like a clutch slipping with added vibration.
It's probably a normal noise produced by this style transmission, just looking to verify if this is true so I can stop worrying about it.
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Im working on a 2001 arctic cat 300. After it is started it will run fine for 5-20 sec. 5 sec at idle, and around 20 with more throttle, then it starts to stutter and sounds like a two stroke. If I open the throttle too much, it just dies on me. The interesting thing is that if I restart it, it will run fine for another 20 sec.
The trick I have found to get it running like it should, is to open the trottle very slowly over a period of as much as 5 minutes. After that it will run perfect! The air temperature is that of a typical norwegian summer, ie in the 60s. But it shouldnt take THAT long to warm up. lol
The engine is a four stroke, single cylinder, cv carb, electronic ignition. The carb is the keihin cvk32. What could cause this kind of problems? I have of course taken apart the carb, and cleaned it.
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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My 2.4l camry 2002 dies right after start. This usually happens with cold starts. I checked multiple threads with similar problems and I have narrowed down the possible culprits. My working theory now is that the TPS or throttle body may be bad.
1. Is the throttle body fully closed at rest? Mine opens a bit.
2. With ignition at ON (engine not started) my TPS reads 17.6 on my Actron scanner. Is this figure OK?
OTHER THEORIES : The only code I ever got is p1656: OCV circuit malfunction. A technician checked and said it was caused by a poor grounding. That code has not returned since then (a few days back).
However, I'd still place OCV on the list:
1. Bad OCV/circuit/ECM (shudder!)
2. Leak in air throttle after MAF (VSV for EVAP stuck open?)
3. Bad A/F sensor
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I've got a '93 Dakota that wouldn't start this morning after a cold snap, it used to fit just fine in any temp. It's cranking strong, can smell gas, and it's getting spark (used an inline tester). Battery had a full charge. Lay night the windchill got down to -40 Fahrenheit.
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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Ive noticed that if I start my car, and put it into drive, there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves after hitting the gas. It almost feels like the car is stalling, but it's not. It only happens that first time after a cold start.
If I put my car into reverse first, like when backing out of the garage, it doesn't do it. Only when going directly from park to drive. Is this normal?
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I think I'm going to buy a late 99 CCLB six speed manual truck that's probably been sitting all of a year, maybe longer. Prior to being parked the truck ran flawless. 6 months after parking it he decided to sell it and when driving it, it has a miss when its cold and blows a little white smoke when accelerating. Appears to clear off and run normal after its warm. So he decided to investigate it and re-o-ringed the injectors and checked other things out.
He's determined he thinks it has a weak hpop. Not sure I'm sold on this. Fast forward six months and now I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it. Drove it yesterday and same thing, first 4 or 5 miles kinda studders or misses but after that runs smooth and has no issue. No longer blows white smoke at all or anything. Obviously the fuel is old as hell, other than that what is everyone's thoughts?
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I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.
First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?
Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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I'm new to the Lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds a bit tappet on cold starts until fully warm sounds scary... noise disappears once it's fully warm.
for a Lexus to do this is a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full Lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no different
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I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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I've got a cold start problem. Turn it on, wait until glow plug light goes off, hit the starter and it fires right up. It acts like it runs out of fuel and dies. Hit the starter and it fires up and dies again. Third time it stays running. It's not a long crank either. 1-2 seconds at most. Fuel pressure is 59, HPOP immediately goes 1000+, everything looks good. It will start fine the rest of the day until it sits overnight. This is an early 04.
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