Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Door Ajar Lamp On Instrument Panel Is Out
Jan 11, 2015
Today (1/11/2015), after I had just finished filling up the tank, I opened the car door and since the key was in the ignition the buzzer was sounding. However after 2 or 3 "beeps" it stopped and the door was still open. When I got home and pulled in the garage, I shut the car off, left the keys in the ignition and opened the door and there was no "beep," also the door ajar lamp on the instrument panel was out. I opened the trunk and the light came, then I opened passenger side door and the light came on. Does that mean that the switch on the driver's side door is bad? If so, is that a fire hazard?
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My wife and I have a 2012 Corolla S built 05/12 with 14K miles. We traded in our '06 Corolla S with 190K and we loved that car. I performed all the maint on it and at 15K oil changes using Pennzoil Platinum and then Pennzoil Ultra, it never used a drop. On a trip over the weekend, the "maint reqd' lamp came at 4200 miles into the dealer performed oil change on the 2012. It came on steady while driving which I thought was odd. I tried to perform the reset as I did on the '06 to no avail. I watched a YouTube video and still no good.
I hold the Odometer post in and turn the key to the run position and wait. I am not getting the 5 dashes within the odometer display or any change. On the YouTube video I saw how the dashes do a countdown and then the lamp is extinguished. Mine is not doing that and I have continued to hold the Odo post in for over a minute and nothing changes. I have tried this over a half dozen tries with no success. I read something on-line that said if the previous maint codes are not properly cleared in the ECU, that this can happen? I do not have a scan tool, the car is under the full warranty and I know I can just take it in, but I was hoping to resolve this without doing that.
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I attempted to remove a 7.5 amp fuse from the interior panel under the dash on the left side. Using the fuse removal tool in from the fuse block under the hood, I grabbed one and worked it out slowly.
When I got it out, the metal prongs were broken off of the plastic housing. I thought this was weird and looked into the fuse block trying to see if I can see the prongs. No luck!
I attempted to pull another fuse to see if it will come out and sure enough, the metal prongs are broken off in the fuse block. I tried again to see if I could see the the prongs but again, no luck!
I put the plastic housing (top half of the fuse) back into the slot and the electronics for that fuse is working. However, I am concerned that something is wrong and causing the fuses to break when attempting to pull them out.
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My light when off on my Automatic Shifter Selector Panel (View Attach Pic) on my 2013 Corolla S. I hate turning on my interior lights just to see if I'm in reverse or neutral.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla. It's out of warranty. And it has about 40k Miles.
Today, while driving home, I smelled smoke/burning and it's definitely coming from the control panel on the driver side (where are the locks and window buttons are). There was smoking coming out of that control panel.
To me, this sounds like something a dealership should really fix since those control panels are usually so unique to the maker and model? But I could be wrong, since I'm terrible with cars.
Is there a chance a recall would cover this? I never got a letter, but I found this on the internet: [URL] ....
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Last night was the 1st night my car spent OUTSIDE the garage and it POURED! Anyhow, the door ajar symbol is lit in my instrument cluster but all the doors are shut. I did the walk around, made sure all the doors and hatch are closed. The symbol would disappear for a minute then reappear. Whats up with that? I never came across a problem like that.. Where are the sensors so I can check them? Are they the little things that stick out underneath the door?
[URL] .....
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i have an 09 corolla s auto.i wanted to change it so it would not unlock when you put it into park. i read the manual Page 42. it says to
step 1: turn key to on position (engine off)
step 2: shift the lever to p or n(for stick). and press the the lock button for approximately 5 seconds and then let go to activate or deactivate the auto locking. or if you push and hold the unlock it activates or deactivates the auto unlocking.
well they don't say to wait for the seat belt chime, when you hear the chime push and hold the lock or unlock button depending on what you want and release just prior to the end of the chime. -- they don't say this in the book, but this is the only way to get it to work.
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Speaker brackets and bracket preparation.
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My driver side door locks by itself when I was washing the car. Is this normal. Happened to me twice now. Once when I was working in the garage. I just heard the car beep.
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I have a buzzy, vibrating speaker in my right front door. Is the speaker itself shot or is it just loose? Or does the plastic door panel vibrate against the steel door. Placing my hand on the door doesn't seem to reduce noise ( 2010 Corolla )
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I have a 2013 Corolla with about 6000 miles on it. The drivers side door mysteriously locks after my wife gets home in the evenings. We do not lock it at the house, but when we get into it after she gets home to go somewhere, the driver side door is locked, but none of the rest of the doors. Is there a recall for this problem? Or is it something new that Toyota has not discovered yet? It's the only problem I've had so far with this car, so far it has done this four times in the last month. I just turned in an 07 Tundra with 250,000 miles and had only one problem with where it went into " Limp" mode because of water in some emissions control box at around 160,000 miles, so I hope to get as good service out of the Corolla. It is not the auto relock feature, as I'm familiar with that function on the Tundra.
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The rubber around the rear passenger door of my 09 SE seems to have shrunk and pulled away from the spline. If I push it back in one spot, it pulls away in another.
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try to view the Scion Xd website. there it gives a few video instructions on altering the settings of the door locks. i tried it myself and it worked on the corolla too.
the default with the corolla is when you start the engine and move the shifter from P to D/3, all the doors lock. in the Scion Xd site it gives a video instruction where you can have the door to lock up when the car reaches a certain speed.
what i dont like about the corolla door lock up default setting is when you stop and put the the shifter to P again, all the doors unlock. im kinda paranoid about having the doors unlocked while i am inside the car. so for me the 2nd video instruction is most suitable.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, and the door open indicator will intermittently turn on and off. I isolated the problem to the trunk, and unplugged the trunk latch assembly so that the trunk dome light doesn't drain my battery. Before I unplugged it, my key fob could open the trunk remotely. I can still manually open my trunk using a key or the lever next to the drivers seat. Is there something on the latch assembly that I can check if it's triggering?
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I have a 2012 Corolla. The key fob locks/unlocks all doors except the drivers door. I've read multiple forums saying its most likely the actuator in the drivers door, but the lock/unlock button on the door itself works just fine. This just seems weird to me. I'm really hoping it's not a complex electrical issue.
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Is it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
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My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
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My wife's 2010 Corolla has an issue where the key fob will open the truck and all the doors except the front driver door. Is this a common issue with the Corolla? What are the potential fixes?
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I wanted to know where the door trigger is located and how exactly do i wire it to the viper system. After some research, i think that the door trigger wire is located about the kick panel at the bottom left connector, which would be a white/red wire. I have always tried this and never had luck.
Second question is when I actually do find the correct door trigger, which wire on the viper harness do i connect it to, The door trigger negative or the door trigger positive.
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It took me ten years to talk my wife into buying a Toyota. (Her brother sold Chevrolet)... We got a new 2009 Corolla LE made 4/2008 in Japan. (bought new in late 2008)...
The paint is fading on the rocker panels and the gas cap door. The rest of the paint I am trying to keep up. (clay, polish and wax). The paint chipped really bad on the hood. It was so bad I sanded it down and found rust pits all over the metal.
The engine makes a very loud rattle sound when starting. It is especially bad when cold. We took it to the dealer while under warranty and they couldn't hear anything unusual so they said.
She had the dealer install an alarm system. They botched the job and destroyed the computer requiring several trips back and a loaner car. Alarm no longer works today. The rubber weather stripping around the windows is pealing off.
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So my passenger front door is vibrating inside somewhere ... tho' it could be the door panel itself possibly !?
I've removed the door panel hoping to find something loose inside that is causing this buzzing. All the door panel's locating pins are intact and secure the panel as they should. In other words... The door panel secures as it should and nothing looks broken at it's attachment points.
The noise does not occur on a smooth road surface...and only occurs on rougher road. So I realize the vibration is being transmitted by road vibrations.
I can hear/feel a lite jolt from the tire's contact with the road's surface irregularities and if the road surface remains consistently rough ... that jolt turns into a buzzing drone type noise. Well ... at least until I hit a smooth road surface again. Then the buzzing subsides. No, it is not an electrical buzz/noise.
Sounds more like plastic vibrating against the door's inner surface... But I don't see a scuff mark or anything giving me a clue as to what it could be !?
I've thought of removing the door panel...then take a test drive without it installed. Just to be sure it is not the the window glass support/channels... door lock/lever mech. rod or loose wiring. But haven't done that as of yet. With the door panel removed... I don't see anything that looks loose or could be causing this rattle/buzzing noise ?
It's difficult to say exactly where this noise is transmitted from... but if I were to guess... I have to think it's possibly near center... around the arm rest area. I see behind that is only some wires coming from the window control unit. But I don't see how those could be culprit of this buzzing noise ?
My '10 is still under the 36K warranty...
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