Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: How To Disable ABS
Jan 7, 2014
So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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Here is the deal I have an autocross event coming up this weekend, and a 2010 corolla with traction control. How can I disable the traction control for more than just a few seconds? It is strange that when I hit the button after about 15 seconds the traction control comes back on.
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I want to disable that beep beep sound when you lock or unlock the vehicle with the remote. Does this can be disable?
On my previous Nissan Altima, you can toggle this feature by pressing the lock+unlock simultaneously. I tried that on the Corolla, it does not work.
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
[URL] ....
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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The air coming out when the on the drivers side is significantly warmer than the air coming out on the passenger side when the A/C is cranked to four. At times it is borderline hot unless I kick back the setting to a two or three and then the sides even out a bit more, but it still seems like the right side of the car is much cooler.
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Where is the Air Filter? How do you access it? 2011 LE
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
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Owner of a 2011 Corolla S and wanting to install a TRD exhaust.
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Wierd thing happened this morning to my 2013 Corolla. Put key into ignition switch and put it to "ACC" but wasn't paying attention and went just past the detent. So then a sound like the radiator fan under hood started. Turned it to "IGN" and it went away.
I can recreate this. If you go to "ACC" and slowly keep turning eventually a relay kicks and the fan (not AC, but a loud noise like radiator fan) comes on. Going to either "ACC" or "IGN" will stop it? This normal?
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Im new to this modification game but im very eager to get started. I have a 2010 LE and am kind of put off that a majority of parts seem to be made for the S model, the only differences I know between the LE and S is looks am I wrong? And are there any aftermarket Head Units with a screen that are reliable and not cheap looking or feeling? Also I haven't really seen a definite answer on whether coil overs or springs are better for a drop?
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I have a 2010 toyota corolla that was purchased new. I would like to replace the car audio with a unit that has bluetooth for my phone. Is there a market for old stereos? Where's the best place to sell them?
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Is there a difference? I didn't think that corolla had an L model.
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I've got a 2009 Corolla CE, 5 speed. I've only had the car since september and had no issues until now. Now that there's snow on the roads, my car's ABS has starting coming on a lot more. Whenever it comes on, there's a noise that sounds very similar to grinding gears in a transmission coming from the front of the car. It's the first car I've ever had with ABS, and I've never heard this noise in any of my friend's cars with ABS, so I don't know if this is normal or not.
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I drive a XR base model. I've decided to get factory xrs rims. If putting on these bigger rims affect my ride comfort, fuel consumption, or if it will affect my ride in anyway?
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I have a problem with my wife's 2010 Corolla where the AC only comes on at random times. The blower blows constantly, but only blows cold air every once in awhile. When it blows the cold air, it feels perfect. We had it checked at three different places and they still haven't found out what's wrong.
The first place refilled the coolant and got it working, but it only lasted a day. When we took it back they said it worked fine for them, but took it home and again it crapped out the next day. Took it back to them and they couldn't figure it out.
Second place said it needed a new or refurbished compressor, but that didn't make sense to me since when it's working, it works great. Also pressure was normal on hi and lo.
Third place took a look at it today and said they got it to work briefly by turning on the heat??? Doesn't make sense. They're closed on weekends so we'll take it back to them on Monday and they'll continue to troubleshoot.
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I had some issues over the past couple of days with my 2009 Corolla EPS. It would occasionally go off, after all the indicator lights would flash momentarily. This only happens at low speeds, under 10 mph, and as soon as I got it up to speed the power steering would come back on. (note just about 140,000 miles)
I took my car into the dealer and he told me my battery needed to be replaced, its the original, and my rear hub and bearing assembly is corroded and there is electrical damage back there.
Did my first repair this summer, the alternator and water pump. But I didn't think the rear hub and bearing would have electrical connections or sensors effecting the EPS. I'm sure there is rust, but would that cause EPS issues? Could there be electrical damage? I also tested my battery yesterday and got 12.5 - 12.6 V with if off and 13.6 -13.7 on, but my battery is old.
I am going to pick it up from the dealer and just try changing the battery first. The total repair they suggested would cost $1875.00, which is crazy to me? Could there be a bigger issue though, and could the EPS just cut out on me while I'm on the highway or something?
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I have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
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